fiesta tdci glow plug circuit

[mtechno]

I have a 2004 fiesta tdci with no glow plug circuit, came in with glow plug relay disconnected, when reconnected it made no difference customer has only had car 6 months problem has now occurred with cold weather. I want to test relay & circuit to ecu because relay was previously disconnected I am suspicious that problem is with ecu! terminal 3 of relay connects white wire which changes to white/red wire to terminal A4 of ecu.
Terminal 8 of relay connects white/green wire to terminal F2 of ECU. Can anyone help with pin data or how I may test these terminals which seem to be dead at relay, I have no dash heater plug display either. I am using wiring diagram from autodata.
Any comments appreciated:heeeelllllooooo:

[genius76]

What engine is exactly?

[Meat-Head]

retarded question, what does the engine think of temp, can you activate the gauges, check the bulb?

[mtechno]

Engine is 1.4 tdci, reads temp ok on gauges & engine management system, I may have sorted it if I'm lucky, stuck multimeter directly into relay block terminals 3 & 8 believing they would be pos & neg from ecu activating relay heater plug circuit with ignition on, result was constant 11.8 volts, then I cut open timer relay & jammed contacts to be permanently on, stabbed into heater plug wires terminals 2,7,1,& 6 which are all now fed, then checked those same terminals to earth with ohmmeter to make sure none are open or short circuit as I cannot yet see where they are even fitted, all around 1.2 ohms so dont think I need to look at them. I have ordered a new relay for the morning so I am hopeful that may solve it. It's a nice easy way to check the whole heater plug circuit through that relay plug once you know its 12v constant large term 4 from fuse able link hidden next to battery, earth large term 5, small terminals 3 & 8 12v +- activation from ecu & the other 4 small terminals 12v to glow plugs

[genius76]

Are you sure you used AUTODATA?


http://foto.terpe.lt/inkelti/20121212/i97_1.JPG

[Meat-Head]

HUH, can you show phoototo

agree with above post commom rail no glowworms till though 4 deg maybee 7 deg.

[genius76]

MY FRONTERA X22DTH glow plugs did not show signs of life 1 to 3 degrees Celsius and only at lower temperatures begin to work

Maybe now is the time to ask what the reason for concern about the glow plug?:captain:

[genius76]

Manual says that the TDCI engines and the DHL glow plugs may not work even to -3 Celsius, depending on the engine, diesel, and air temperature

[Meat-Head]

to -3 Celsius,


colder than ice ice baby

[genius76]

colder than ice ice baby


Or my ex-wife :five:

[victor2k]

Hello,
unplug the engine temperature sensor and check the supply for the glow plugs for 15-20 seconds after the ignition is ON.Or use a clampmeter to check the current through glow plugs(aprox 12A/glow plug ).

[genius76]

Hello,
unplug the engine temperature sensor and check the supply for the glow plugs for 15-20 seconds after the ignition is ON.Or use a clampmeter to check the current through glow plugs(aprox 12A/glow plug ).

lol Grass, damaging you, man:canabis: lol

[mtechno]

Unfortunately I cannot read that pin data what year range fiesta is it for? What version autodata? I am using 3.24 it is correct for my vehicle & the problem is only when well below 0 Celsius. Believe me its colder than your ex wife here at the moment! I detailed the post with test procedure info so anyone needing to check circuit doesn't have to waste 2 hours of their life looking for 60amp fuseable link hidden by battery impossible to find through autodata or ford tis & ford main stealer clueless also. Remember car came in with relay unplugged! It's been working last 6 months without glow plugs ok.

[mtechno]

Glow circuit fine now but unfortunately I have opened up a can of worms, complete misinformation from customer & Rac who diagnosed fault no heater circuit. There was no heater circuit but this fault is not temperature related. Intermittently rail pressure is too low to start & sometimes when it's enough it still doesn't start. Can anyone re post pin data genius76 previously posted showing rail pressure reading which need to be scrolled up a little to get in shot! I need to identify if my fault is pump wiring or ecu, my engine is 2004 fiesta 1.4 tdci f6ja
thank you

[genius76]

:stupid::canabis:lol

[genius76]

I'm sure that you have already checked the fuel filter?

[mtechno]

I Have a new one here ready to fit, it's the sealed plastic type you cant open up to look inside, I think this has low pressure electric lift pump in tank so I was going to try & pump some fuel from filter into clean vessel & see if there are any tiny particles of metal in fuel

[genius76]

Simply check pressure on inlet before the cr pump

[anthony610]

put up chassie number and ill give you the ford wiring diaghram

[mtechno]

Its not that easy to stab into cr pump wires with my multimeter & just one pair of hands today, chassis number is WF0HXXGAJH3U78040 Does anyone know if this has electric lift pump in tank or if it has suction lift pump built in with high pressure cr pump
Thanx

[genius76]

If it has a manual fuel pump under the lid, lift pump built in with high pressure pump cr
If not, it has the added pump in the tank

[genius76]

On the CR pump there are two valves one of the fuel inlet, the other fuel OUT
Ignition ON, inlet solenoid should show 12-14v
If not, check pressure sensor on rail then wires and so on If everything continues to look good.
Disconnect the outlet pipe rail from CR pump disconnect wires from solenoid outlet ignition on engine start when the outlet solenoid disconnected, the pump allows create pressure, up to 170 bar.

[mtechno]

Yes lift pump inside cr pump, I spoke to main stealers they claim to have never sold cr pump & that known fault is nearly always copper washers & bushes round injectors,which they sell with return pipe inlet gaskets & cam box gasket. I am convinced that problem is air leak in fuel low pressure lines because fault occurs when it is sat for a few hours & rail pressure is only just too low to start, once she gets to 2000kpa all is good until she sits for several hours after which rubber lift pump under bonnet you can squeeze & feel air in it.
I remember the last common rail engine management coarse I went on this came up as a known fault! injector seals & washers sucking in air, I questioned it at that time because I couldn't see how air gets in fuel & I still cant quite get my head round it now!
Has anyone experienced this on ford diesels?
I can understand air being sucked into fuel from the connections of hard plastic pipes but I still cant see how air gets in fuel from copper washers & bushes which are near to high pressure outlet of injectors!

[genius76]

High pressure on rail should disappear within 30 seconds after the engine is switched off, this is normal If it has a manual fuel pump under the lid, check it, inside is one way valve in it

[anthony610]

message me and ill send you ford diaghrams, ill need chassie number......................