PDA

View Full Version : MB A160 W168 Automatic dont drive at all



dreamrunner
7th January, 2013, 08:45 PM
Hello Folks,

I have trouble with my wifes Mercedes-Benz W168. Its a A 160 with 5-Speed Automatic Transmission 772.7 Year 2001.

The Car has 137000 km and the Transmission was replaced from the last Owner a liitle more than a Year ago so there is no Guarantee on it anymore. Sinnce then the Car hast run est. 25000km. The Transmission and the Converter where new, original MB.

The Car run fine until one Morning. My wife went about 5km and then the Car stopped. It does not show "F" and it does not move at all! Not forward or Reverse, no Limb Home etc. I had the Gerlever Modul out, and checked it, it was replaced before too, cant say when. When I shift the Gears it showas the seleccted gear in the Instrument, Reverse Lights work when on "R" and you can push it when in "N" shiftercable is OK and working.
I read out the Faults with CS 7.4 and it showed the following Codes at the first Reading:
P200A EGS Control Unit faulty
P0725-2 Speed Signal (TNA) Short circut to negative or open circut
C1201 BAS release switch open circut/shortcircut plausibility
The BAS Light was on before and the car was driving fine with the BAS/ESP light on

After i cleared the Fault Codes only the P0725-2 and the C1201 came back on, Transmision shows "No faults"

I noticed that the engine will only rev up to 4000 1/min then it beginns to stall and missfire. I am also not able to read the EGS Live data with CS.
Oil is OK, i have the MB Dipstick to check the Fluid Level. Oil is clear and does not smell burned, no noises can be heard out of the Transmission gear box.

My wife said there where no noises or anything; she went of the gas where the Road was going downhill and when she went back on the gas the engine revs up put it didn?t drive anymore:puke:

Anybody got an idea what else to check? I am not willing to spend big money for Parts, work is no problem i can do myself

Thank you for your Help:ciao:

smayer
7th January, 2013, 09:50 PM
check for oil in EGS plugs.

Bazil_mb
7th January, 2013, 10:58 PM
Hi,
it,s possible to have a faulty egs or cluch set worn

zoyzoyni
8th January, 2013, 12:06 AM
RIGHT,EGS 99% PLUS ABS UNIT.

dreamrunner
8th January, 2013, 12:23 AM
check for oil in EGS plugs.
It all looks dry; but i will check that too. A Friend of mine had Problems like this on his SLK Engine:dong:

genius76
8th January, 2013, 12:45 AM
P200A EGS Control Unit faulty
P0725 CRANKSHAFT SENSOR OR WIRING
C1201 STOP LAMP SWISH

So it seems that your gearbox does not see brake switch signal and the engine speed signal
For this, of course, he is not running

P0725 CRANKSHAFT SENSOR OR WIRING
It seems that the engine does not see, due to misfiring and poor rpm

Everything seems to be toward the wires
Try to check very carefully and, as always, the first battery, a good grounding and power supply to all the points :-)

dreamrunner
8th January, 2013, 12:50 AM
RIGHT,EGS 99% PLUS ABS UNIT.
The C1201 BAS Fault is quit common on the A-Class. I have checked the DTC on a Workmates Car. Was the same. He got a Brake Booster from a Yunk Yard and replaced it - Fault was gone. I got me a Brake Booster already but the breakdown of the Car was faster then me :y:

I do work a lot on different Cars and Motorbiks, but a controller that breaks from one second to another??? Even if there is a contact fault in e.g. the soldering they work once in a while or by change of the temperature. And after the Fault was cleared the Fault didn?t come up again.

The EGS Unit costs almost 1300? + Oil, Filter and Gasket. Thats almost what i payed for the car:dong:

dreamrunner
8th January, 2013, 12:52 AM
P200A EGS Control Unit faulty
P0725 CRANKSHAFT SENSOR OR WIRING
C1201 STOP LAMP SWISH

So it seems that your gearbox does not see brake switch signal and the engine speed signal
For this, of course, he is not running

P0725 CRANKSHAFT SENSOR OR WIRING
It seems that the engine does not see, due to misfiring and poor rpm

Everything seems to be toward the wires
Try to check very carefully and, as always, the first battery, a good grounding and power supply to all the points :-)

Thats what i think too! Its a electric problem:goodpost:

mercis
8th January, 2013, 06:40 AM
Hello Folks,

I have trouble with my wifes Mercedes-Benz W168. Its a A 160 with 5-Speed Automatic Transmission 772.7 Year 2001.

The Car has 137000 km and the Transmission was replaced from the last Owner a liitle more than a Year ago so there is no Guarantee on it anymore. Sinnce then the Car hast run est. 25000km. The Transmission and the Converter where new, original MB.

The Car run fine until one Morning. My wife went about 5km and then the Car stopped. It does not show "F" and it does not move at all! Not forward or Reverse, no Limb Home etc. I had the Gerlever Modul out, and checked it, it was replaced before too, cant say when. When I shift the Gears it showas the seleccted gear in the Instrument, Reverse Lights work when on "R" and you can push it when in "N" shiftercable is OK and working.
I read out the Faults with CS 7.4 and it showed the following Codes at the first Reading:
P200A EGS Control Unit faulty
P0725-2 Speed Signal (TNA) Short circut to negative or open circut
C1201 BAS release switch open circut/shortcircut plausibility
The BAS Light was on before and the car was driving fine with the BAS/ESP light on

After i cleared the Fault Codes only the P0725-2 and the C1201 came back on, Transmision shows "No faults"

I noticed that the engine will only rev up to 4000 1/min then it beginns to stall and missfire. I am also not able to read the EGS Live data with CS.
Oil is OK, i have the MB Dipstick to check the Fluid Level. Oil is clear and does not smell burned, no noises can be heard out of the Transmission gear box.

My wife said there where no noises or anything; she went of the gas where the Road was going downhill and when she went back on the gas the engine revs up put it didn?t drive anymore:puke:

Anybody got an idea what else to check? I am not willing to spend big money for Parts, work is no problem i can do myself

Thank you for your Help:ciao:
YOU HAVE ECU PROBLEM

autotrans
8th January, 2013, 03:40 PM
A class merc's do have a lot of problems with trany ECU's but if you disconnect the 5 pin plug after (startup)normally they still have some sort of drive. check the oil level from cold static then check again with engine running, the level should drop a bit . this will tell us if the pump is working and drawing oil. Any flicker on the speedo ??

dreamrunner
8th January, 2013, 05:31 PM
YOU HAVE ECU PROBLEM
Any Idea what can be wrong with the ECU?

mercis
8th January, 2013, 06:31 PM
soldier wire,if you open it can you see

genius76
8th January, 2013, 07:54 PM
I still think that your problem engine wiring
but it is my opinion in any case, we all want to help
This is the page exclusively about your car

Bert Rowe's-Mercedes-Benz 'A'-class info. Mercedes Benz A Class W168 Automatic Transmission /gearbox, Changing Automatic Gearbox fluid on Mercedes- Benz 'A' Class (http://www.aclassinfo.co.uk/mypage.59a.htm)
Albert Rowe, Lofty's homepage (http://www.aclassinfo.co.uk/mypage.1.htm)

dreamrunner
8th January, 2013, 08:35 PM
I still think that your problem engine wiring
but it is my opinion in any case, we all want to help
This is the page exclusively about your car

Bert Rowe's-Mercedes-Benz 'A'-class info. Mercedes Benz A Class W168 Automatic Transmission /gearbox, Changing Automatic Gearbox fluid on Mercedes- Benz 'A' Class (http://www.aclassinfo.co.uk/mypage.59a.htm)
Albert Rowe, Lofty's homepage (http://www.aclassinfo.co.uk/mypage.1.htm)

Thank you, i know this Page already. Its a verry good and informative Page about the A- Class!

I agree with you that the Problem is somewhere in the wiring. There was a post on how to resolder the ECU for the A -Class, i have to sse if i can find it again. But taken the ECU appart will be the last of my choices. I will replace the Brake Booster and the Crankshaftsensor first, so those faults are fixed.

I am still open for good Hints and Ideas, so please keep writing:ciao:

genius76
8th January, 2013, 09:32 PM
for pinout:lollypop:

The ME-SFI (aka ECU) is the cornerstone of the whole electronic systems for the Mercedes. It provides a host of data for all other systems through the CAN BUS network, and provides important capability for emergency situations such as throttle control.
In the ECM [MSM] control module the following functions are summarized:
Fuel injection
Ignition
Idle speed control
Drive authorization system
Diagnosis/fault storage
Emission control
Limp-home mode
The supplied air mass to the engine is detected by the integrated hot film mass air flow sensor
The intake air temperature is detected by the integrated intake air temperature sensor
The following information is in particular evaluated by the ECM [MSM] control module:
Intake air temperature Coolant temperature Air mass
Engine speed
Engine load
Throttle valve position
Vehicle speed
Transmission condition and clutch (ACS)
Operating voltages
Atmospheric pressure
Knocking (engine)
Oil temperature
Lambda value (three way catalytic converter temperature)
All of these signals need to be taken into account when designing the integration because they affect the state of the ECU, particularly when in a emergency condition.
The connectors are as follows:

1 Fuel injector, cylinder 1
2 Fuel injector, cylinder 2
3 Fuel injector, cylinder 3
4 Fuel injector, cylinder 4
5 O2 Sensor heater upstream of TWC
6 O2 Sensor heater downstream of TWC
7 Cylinder 1 and 4 ignition Coil Module
8 Cylinder 2 and 3 ignition Coil Module
9 Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal
10 Crankshaft Position Sensor Ground
11 -
12 Throttle Valve Actuator (Pot Ground)
13 Throttle Valve Actuator (Pot Voltage Supply)
14 Throttle Valve Actuator (Actual Value Pot voltage Supply)
15 Throttle Valve Actuator (Actual Value Pot drive voltage Supply)
17-18 Voltage Supply Circuit 87 Fused
19 Knock sensor signal
20 Knock sensor ground
21 -
22 Coolant Temp Sensor
23 O2 sensor signal, upstream of KAT
24 O2 sensor ground, upstream of KAT
25 Camshaft Sensor Ground
26 Coolant and Oil Sensor Temperature Ground
27 -
28 -
29 Oil sensor voltage supply
30 Oil sensor signal
31 -
32 Air pump switchover valve ground
33 Throttle valve actuator (engine voltage supply)
34 Throttle Valve actuator (engine minus)
35 Camshaft sensor signal
36 O2 sensor signal, downstream of KAT
37 O2 sensor ground, downstream of KAT
38 Voltage Supply Circuit 87 Fused
39 Voltage Supply Circuit 87 Fused

40 Circuit 31 Ground
41 Circuit 31 Ground
42 Pedal value sensor specified-value Hall Sensor 1 Ground
43 Resume Stored Speed Cruise Control
44 Cruise Control OFF
45 Pedal value sensor specified-value Hall Sensor 1 Signal
46 -
47 Circuit 31 Ground
48 Circuit 87 Voltage Supply
49 -
50 Pedal Value sensor specified value Hall Sensor 2 ground
51 Accelerate Set Cruise Control
52 Decelerate, Set Cruise Control
53 Variable Speed limiter cruise control
54 Check Switch contact pushbutton switch
55 Pedal value sensor specified value Hall Sensor 2 signal
56 -
57 Voltage supply circuit 30 fused
58 Circuit 50 starter signal
59 Crash Signal (from airbag control module)
60 Secondary air injection relay ground
61 Clutch pedal switch
62 -
63 Kick down switch (only for CC with MT)
64 TN Speed Signal (output)
65 Pedal Value sensor voltage supply 5V
66 Diagnostic cable (K line)
67 -
68 Voltage supply circuit 87 fused
69 Voltage supply circuit 87 fused
70 -
71 Purge Control Valve
72 Starter Relay Signal
73 Fuel Pump Relay
74 Fan Control
75 CAN Low data bus
76 CAN High data bus

http://foto.terpe.lt/inkelti/20130108/i45_ECU_Coupling_2_Engine.jpg
http://foto.terpe.lt/inkelti/20130108/i45_ECU_Interior_Coupler.jpg

mercis
9th January, 2013, 05:10 AM
Thank you, i know this Page already. Its a verry good and informative Page about the A- Class!

I agree with you that the Problem is somewhere in the wiring. There was a post on how to resolder the ECU for the A -Class, i have to sse if i can find it again. But taken the ECU appart will be the last of my choices. I will replace the Brake Booster and the Crankshaftsensor first, so those faults are fixed.

I am still open for good Hints and Ideas, so please keep writing:ciao:
m8,i mean ecu from FGS,you must it open and will see wire have bad contact,

lati
18th January, 2013, 08:31 PM
hello
is this with srews to open
can i solder the wire normaly ore is this like abs5.7 and simtek opel
is this only wire problem
i have the pwm solenoid 3 problem
best regards

mercis
19th January, 2013, 06:24 AM
yes,wire problem,open ecu and check all contakte,soldier

dreamrunner
19th January, 2013, 06:58 PM
yes,wire problem,open ecu and check all contakte,soldier
What is a good way to close the ECU again? I was thinking spot Welding with a MIG Welder

genius76
19th January, 2013, 07:07 PM
done running?

Bazil_mb
19th January, 2013, 11:51 PM
Hi,
It,s also possible to had a flywheel worn, also a problem with cluch pack in the gear box
Regards

dreamrunner
2nd February, 2013, 06:54 PM
Hi Guys,

today i did find some time to work on my A Class. I changed the Crankshaft sensor and unplugged the transmission conector.

The Conectorplug was clean and dry no Oil or anything, contacts nice and clean also. But the car still dont move even without the plug conected:ahhhhh:
I read a lot about this type of transmission, and even with no electrical connection it should drive Back- and Forward :-( And even with the disconectet Plug it did not show "F" in the display.
What i did find out in the meantime is that the last owner had a new Transmission put in 3 Months befor i got the car, and since than the Car hasent run more than 20k km. I tryed to contact the Workshop that did the cange, but the Boss was in Hospital last week, so i have to try again. Hopefuly there is still warranty on the Transmission; that would save me time and money.
What would you Guys do? Fix it, sell it "as is"? or sell it in Parts?

genius76
2nd February, 2013, 08:17 PM
You are again talking about an automatic gearbox.
Forget it.
U are checked brake switch?

dreamrunner
3rd February, 2013, 03:56 AM
You are again talking about an automatic gearbox.
Forget it.
U are checked brake switch?
No, Still :hmmmm2: The Brake switch is new also, forget to mention

genius76
3rd February, 2013, 04:07 AM
it is not new it is one of you foult code

genius76
3rd February, 2013, 05:10 AM
Emergency running mode
If during a journey the transmission no longer shifts, even in varying operating conditions , the transmission has entered emergency running mode. The letter 'F' will appear on the instrument cluster display. To make it possible to continue the journey , 2nd and reverse gears can still be selected!!!

Check brakes wiring etc it is not gearbox fault

dreamrunner
14th February, 2013, 08:25 PM
Hello

after i took the ECU out and opened it i found that only 4 of the 19 contackts where still connectet. After i removed the silicone on the circut bord i found that it was cracked, also:puke: But the Trans should work in 5th and reverse even with a complete electric failure on hydraulic only. But alwas with the maximum Oilpressure.
Finaly after spending so many hours on that damm car my wife came up and told me that the car wasent moving very good for about two or three weeks before it broke down.?But she did not worry to much since there was no Warninglight or noise or something like that.

What i think now is since there was no "F" shown due to the failure of the ECU the transmission was running so long in Limb Mode till it finally broke. What do you Guys think? And since there is no movemend i think there is no Oilpressure anymore, what ever the Problem may be (Oilpump broken, valve sticking etc)

TIP: I found a fast and easy way to get the ECU Housing back together. Just drill thru the rivets, cut M3 threads and but Bolts in it and secure them with a drop Loctite. Took me 15 min drilling, threading and finding the right bolts :-)

BTW: Before i opend the Transmission i have changed the Vacuum Bosster with the BAS switch. The only Fault that was left was ECU faulty. All the electrical valves i have tested and they all worked. The Oil was clean, didn?t smelled burned and there was no debris in the Filter or the Oilpan.
Let me thank you all for your Help:adore: The only think i will do to that car is put everything back together, get the gas out and see that i can get as much out as i can get:) :ciao:

genius76
14th February, 2013, 08:36 PM
:hmmmm:I was convinced that it was not associated with AT :tomato:

Wow how he did it I mind cracked

dreamrunner
14th February, 2013, 09:21 PM
Here some pictures from the disassembled ECU. Maybe someone got a use for it.
Remeber: The circut board is on the bottom side. When you open the ECU take off the Top cover first! Its a little esyer to open the rivets from the bottom side with a small Dremel.
The silicone can be easyly removed with a Q-Tip. Just roll the silicone like cotton candy. It takes some time, but worked quite well.
Do not use regular silicone. This can cause problems! I found TSE 397 B SILIKON made by Momentive. Maybe there is something better (and cheaper) on the market

You dont have to take out the complete hydraulic control unit like it says in the attached MB Manual. Carefully take out the five valves and than the ECU Tray will come out

dreamrunner
14th February, 2013, 09:24 PM
Pictures and Hints disassamble A 168 Transmission ECU Part2

dreamrunner
14th February, 2013, 09:29 PM
Pictures and Hints disassamble A 168 Transmission ECU Part3

dreamrunner
14th February, 2013, 09:44 PM
:hmmmm:I was convinced that it was not associated with AT :tomato:

Wow how he did it I mind cracked
I am not sure. The clue with the circut board is clued to the cover didnt stick on that place. Maybe it vibrate off. Why do the contacts brake off?? If the would put the ECUs in a safe and secure place this would not happen! But thats the way to make Money:rolleyes: VW/Audi has the same problems. But more or less all companys do the same sh*t That ECM isnt worth more than 20? Material,manufacture, shipping and handling all incl. And they sell it for 1200? Thats what I call Ripp off!!:shot:

autotrans
18th February, 2013, 03:28 PM
It is very unusual for any transmission to loose total drive due to electrical problems, so i would suspect mechanical failure poss t/c input splines. try a live data test rpm to turbine speed sensor. if it is t/c this can be changed without box overhaul.

i_shot_the_sheriff
27th April, 2015, 10:10 AM
Hey mates,

i've seen that avdi can read this tcm via obdii (w168) but does anyone has the pinout to read it on bench?

I'm asking for the possibility to transfer the data (coding) from one tcm that is possibly not repairable to a used one

autotrans
28th April, 2015, 11:16 AM
Hey mates,

i've seen that avdi can read this tcm via obdii (w168) but does anyone has the pinout to read it on bench?

I'm asking for the possibility to transfer the data (coding) from one tcm that is possibly not repairable to a used one

they can be powered up on the bench from the 5 pin plug
pin 3. K LINE diagnostic \ 5. can hi \ 6. + 12v \ 7. ground \ 8. can lo
problem is you will have 11 codes stored from modules the tcm can't
communicte with.

alclot
6th April, 2018, 08:26 AM
Hi mates! I have this unit (5WP2 1902 - A 168 545 16 32) with dtcs:
2404 - N47 bad canbus
200A - Internal failure
2530 -Y3/7 and 1 - Hidraulic pressure

It doesnt work. I checked the internal filaments and they had continuity.
Can anybody help me with tips about fix the unit?
Thanks in advance ;)