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smithnostic
14th August, 2014, 08:37 PM
Nissan 2003 xtrail crank sensor shows signal at sensor but not show at the ecu connector. How is the signal fed to the ECU is it a direct feed from crank sensor to ECU?

Has any one got a ECU pin out or wiring diagram?

leandroks
15th August, 2014, 03:28 AM
It is a hall system (digital pulses), sure u ve got a wire problem/... Check the wiring colour and follow it to the connector...

flip
15th August, 2014, 03:50 AM
Nissan 2003 xtrail crank sensor shows signal at sensor but not show at the ecu connector. How is the signal fed to the ECU is it a direct feed from crank sensor to ECU?

Has any one got a ECU pin out or wiring diagram?
When you unplug the crank sensor do you have 5 volts on signal wire?
Will upload diagram in a minute

flip
15th August, 2014, 03:55 AM
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leandroks
15th August, 2014, 04:12 AM
Yes one pin is 5volts, other is grounded and the last one has to carry the signal (intermitent) to ecu...

smithnostic
15th August, 2014, 10:41 AM
The sensor is this one and sits at the bottom of front of engine:Nissan X Trail T30 QR25DE 2 5L Crankshaft Crank Angle Sensor CAS CAM Genuine | eBay (http://m.ebay.com.au/itm?itemId=221151829061)
And has two wires?
It says this is crank sensor I get 2volt signal out at turn over but nothing at ecu. The negative wire changes colour through the loom and feeds the ecu. There is continuity between this wore and battery negative. As for the other wire don't know if its fed through the immobiliser as I can not see continuity at ECU.
Thanks

smithnostic
15th August, 2014, 04:41 PM
Ok manage to find ECU behind glove box. Signal from Crank sensor is getting to the pin. I use a function generator and send a 1 volt square wave integrity of signal not good but there is continuity between wires and ECU plugs. Difficult to acess integrity of wire when sending a signal through the wire because my function generator is 50 ohms. The wire acts like a high pass filter at low frequencies. May be I should try pushing current through the wire and measure it using a test light?

leandroks
15th August, 2014, 04:47 PM
It works in 5 volts if u ve got 50ohms of resistence, so i would advice u pushing a side wiring to solve that problem, another thing is the car can be at wrong timming, i mean the timming belt can be at wrong point, it happens when it is old and a teeth jumps out of position, so the rpm and cranck position sensor does not match and the ecu point it to a cranck position sensor fault.

PierreTheron
15th August, 2014, 04:56 PM
Hi
Use this to find the problem m8 ..

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/324b7b19468fde4d25265d084ca080e0.jpg

smithnostic
15th August, 2014, 05:50 PM
The car was running great. I pulled the earth of to clean the earth contacts. and unplugged the crank sensor then put in some WD40. My be I got a bit carried away. but just taking the plug off the crank sensor and removing earth and placing them back has damaged ECU. I would not have thought cars are this easy to damage considering the harsh environment they work in Would they? I think I may have spiked the ECU in some way.

PierreTheron
15th August, 2014, 08:44 PM
Hi

Maybe ignition was left on while cleaning earth Or did not wait long enough after ignition was switched off .???
What engine type is this?

QR 25
You will need to do throttle body relearning on this to get idling right after you unplugged ecu, throttle body or disconnected battery ...

Can you see any damage in ecu ???

smithnostic
15th August, 2014, 09:35 PM
I will need to check ECU. Not sure if the the insides are easily accessible? I put a Autel maxiscan FR704 on it. It makes the abs light come on the dash and has a melody that repeats its self. I don't know what this is telling me Reminds me of the ET and the third kind. The car communicates through DLC via ODB socket. Its a 2003 European diesel x trail 4WD.

cjawahir
16th August, 2014, 03:07 PM
hello give more detail about the vehicle , is it the diesel model with vp44 pump , or is it common rail ?

u say that the crank sensor is 2 wires ? are u asking or telling

and why did you try to clean the ground , the vehicle had some other problem ?

what was the fault code when u scan it ?


cj

smithnostic
16th August, 2014, 03:34 PM
had no scan tool all my scan tools would not read Nissan DLC. The guy was in a hurry to get it fixed so it was towed away to a garage with I suspected mobilizer reset needed as the the engine would not fire and crank. all voltages checked and scope seem OK suspected immobilizer kicked in.

check out this video it not for a nissan xtrail but shows what may have been the solution:

Nissan P0505 P0507 Relearn Cam and Crank Sensor Troubleshooting and Testing by Wells - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M62kkenI_Ro)

cjawahir
16th August, 2014, 04:04 PM
had no scan tool all my scan tools would not read Nissan DLC. The guy was in a hurry to get it fixed so it was towed away to a garage with I suspected mobilizer reset needed as the the engine would not fire and crank. all voltages checked and scope seem OK suspected immobilizer kicked in.

check out this video it not for a nissan xtrail but shows what may have been the solution:

Nissan P0505 P0507 Relearn Cam and Crank Sensor Troubleshooting and Testing by Wells - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M62kkenI_Ro)


hello bro , u see that Thanks button , its to say thanks to people who help u , press it .

so i u telling me that no scanner u have could scan that vehicle ?

also did u notice the engine check light on , in the instrument cluster ?

nissan have an immo light if its solid on then u have problem with immo ?

u must study and understand a vehicle before u go digging into the wiring .

cj

smithnostic
16th August, 2014, 07:31 PM
Check engine light was on.

Thanks all you guys for your help and input. Very much appreciated.

cqae
17th August, 2014, 01:39 PM
check 3 wire cranks sensors isn't that hard, 3 wire will nearly always be a hall effect as previously mentioned. I do these al the time & rarely dig out a diagram or info. Basically ALL hall effect sensors will have 3 wires, although some add a 4th as a second signal wire.

1 wire must be supply, this can be 12v, 10v, 7 v or 5v or even 2.5, it doesn't actually matter, but it must be correct for the particular circuit, most cars will have 5v these days.

another wire must be ground, check it when cranking, so its under a bit of load.

the final wire is the signal wire. unplugged it will have a bias voltage coming from the ecu, usually 5v. if it has this, the wire is connected to the ecu, no need for continuity tests, this shows there is continuity. when plugged back on, this will carry the signal, best tested using a scope, while a multimeter can give you a rough idea, only a scope is 100% accurate. what is import an to remember is the sensor only 'pulls down' the bias voltage, so if the bias voltage isn't there, the sensor can't pull down a voltage that isn't there anyway.

as a quick check, a hall sensor unplugged must have voltages(can be different) and a ground.

id suggest in this particular case, the crank sensor wasn't the issue, as they won't cause a check engine light to come on because the car won't run without it and the cel would be on anyway while the engine wasn't running.

and finally…….read post 15. people have spent their time offering you help and cjawahir has also asked you to press thanks, its just manners and not asking a lot

PierreTheron
22nd August, 2014, 09:39 PM
I think i had one off these last year with immo problem .. Small red light on dash flashing (You can see it through front windscreen ) ... disconected cam sensor --cranked it till it fired up and then plugged in sensor and sent guy straight to dealers to have his keys recoded as i could not do it ...



Have got consult 3 now and other tool to match immo now on these ..