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Meat-Head
20th November, 2009, 10:30 PM
Hi folks, can we have a bash at some tips.

Hopefully in a few months time, we can do a cut and paste and have a print out, to keep, if members can edit there posts rather than new ones, yes i know i do it.

Can we if possable use this codings for entertaintment value

F = Found by yourself or work collegue
A= Found accidetly by yourself or work collegue whilst doing another task
R = can't remember
T= told by someone

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks to Drakov for pointing out the words spelt FART, this was a genuine 'error'
i would have put them in that order if i'd noticed it.

Cristec WOW good post, you have saved me a lot of time. Half of you post just
clicked instantly.

Drakov no offense, but what part of edit your post's not fresh didn't you understand?

^^TommyTee Good post, do you know if that data applies for al Vauxhalls?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Alfa Romeo
rear side light stuck on, revcounter bulbfailure chip faulty (F)

Fiat scudo Loom chaffs on 'bonnet lever' BURNS OUT (F - nice job)

Fiat punto II DISCONNECT BATTERY before looking, above clutch
pedal, earth point cut off and use 4 yelllow ring terminals, one by
battery as well (A)

Punto I common fault, speedo/fuel gauge, some wiring plug behind steering colum (T)

Ford Escort Mark V join two black wires on cdl module to bypass
immboliser (T)

Ford (most models) remove bonnet switch to disablle o/e alarm (T)

Ford Mondog, o/s loom get's wet and rots out (F & T)

Ford Transit MK1 don't run engine with air cleaner off if backs fires
loom above it burns back both ways (T)

Ford transit 2000 ish, loom chaffs inner wing pass side. (F)

Transvestie blows fuses, diesel filter plug chaffed (F)

Ford Furry Jester washer jets leak water fill sparkplug with water
zetec (T)

Furry jester MKIII no revcounter, ?3 capaictor inner wing open circuit (behind jack)
RS turbo no fuelpump, Sierra inc Sapphire, same shit diff day (F)

Furry jester ETC fail

1) Pipe split from throttle butterfly to cranck breather spilt, new pipe ?5 from fords
if urgent repair needed, 2x hose clips a Montego Cranck breather pipe will do (F +F)
2) Earth points under battery bad (T)
3) Battery boloxed, try hump leads, cut's out below 11 volts (T)


Focus 'Lambarda fault' and engine light on 'M' (possability 'W' shaped) pipe under
inlet fannymold split (T)


Merc ? central locking compresser under seat does EVERYTHING, MK III Gulf door lock
compresser internal motor, fits perfect (F)

Pugoet 306 (and citroen ZX), heater resistor, access from under the
bonnet, so much easier (F)

Pug 106 non-start loom chaffs on bell-end housing (T)

puget 206 locking fault, won't lock just bounces

If NON dead man locking, do not pass go, fit new mechanisum
ask the stealer for the total cost including the 'new' plug, and
make sure it has the diagramme with it

If HAS deadman locking, deciper which door is faulty, should lock outside and inside on both doors, then on the dead door join the pink wire to the green/yellow, and deny all knowalge (F)

Peugot 306, WHEN the door loom snapps to the hard as concrete potting compound
WAFT a blowtorch at it, it dripps off like snot (F - pissed off at time)

Reno megane rear light cluster flashing, Dremall off the glave off the earth busbar, comon
conveniant hole, drill 3mm hole, ram wire through, solder to earth wire. (F)

Shitron Piacasso, no heater, yank out glovebox, turn heater motor 1/4 turn clockwise
hand in hole, turn resisor, yank out, change loom and resisor (not worth hassle ****ing around, unless own car), less than 1 hour ish (F)
Peugot 307, same shit diff day (T)

Vauxhall Movarno non start wire chaffed on bell housing (F)

Vauxhall cu*tera loom chaffs on bumber (F)
" " MK2 No speedo/rev counter till lights on/off,

1) Take note which plug comes out which hole AWD/HRW (?) (F)
2) Becareful you don't destroy the mirror switch removing lower panel (F)
Besure to check that it really does say 'Honda' on it at same time
3) Remove the fuse puller and jamb it behind the white (grey/odd one) plug (F)

Blowing fuses on V6 speedo, loom chaffs for cruise control in center console (F)
Electric window module fills with rain water (F/T)

Volkswagen Gulf cdl compresser carries on split fuel cap belows (F)
If you more than 7 psi on locking system the door locks open rather rapidly. (F)

Volkswgaen Gulf power sterring packs up, start engine and twat pump with a twattting stick (valve jams) (T)

Seat alharbra, loss of electirc windows wire broke in door,
DO NOT under ANY circumstances unscrew the plug (F)

thanks

drakov
20th November, 2009, 10:49 PM
Can we if possable use this codings for entertaintment value

F = Found by yourself or work collegue
A= Found by yourself or work collegue whilst doing another task
T= told by someone
R = can't remember

Make it:

F = Found by yourself or work collegue
A= Found by yourself or work collegue whilst doing another task
R = can't remember
T= told by someone

and i'll give it my backing:roflmao:

but seriously, I agree it's a nice idea

cristec
20th November, 2009, 11:32 PM
My contribution

Early Galaxy/Sharan
No cruise control, split pipe on vacuum pump in n/s inner wing (F)
Windows opening on there own, especially after heavy rain, control unit under passenger seat full of water (F)
Blown fuses for sidelights and interior lights, wiring to tailgate damaged (F)
no central locking or windows, loom on n/s near a pillar rotten caused by water ingress, usually shown by green staining where problem is (F)

Rover 416,25 no start no c/locking, blown fuse in engine fuse box caused by damaged loom to tailgate (F)

BMW 3 series E36 and E46 no heater blower motor caused by, heater motor speed control unit, known by BMW dealers as a hedgehog (F)

Fiesta and KA either full hot or full cold no control, caused by heater control valve under windscreen attached to heater hoses (F)

Escort water temp gauge goes to hot when engine started, but not when ignition turned on, plug and socket joined together behind N/S headlamp unplug should not be connected, usually destroys the temp sender (F)
No heater blower, fuse box or heater speed resistor, if heater motor fuse has 12V supply then resistor is faulty, if no supply then fusebox is faulty (F)
No dipped H/lamps usually fusebox (T)
No side lights, Stalk assembly, get end cap of light switch off, have to be a bit forceful and clean contacts if clips broken holding cap on glue back on, watch out for detent plungers and springs as you remove sidelight/headlight control switch (F)
No electric windows, contacts burnt on window switch plug
(F)

Mondeo early no heater blower and sometimes burning smell inside car, burnt connections on heater speed resistor, or speed selection switch (F)
no sidelights burnt red feed wire on light switch (F)
No remote central locking, alarm/central locking control unit microprocessor locked up, unplug four connectors on black unit above drivers toes, wait 10 seconds then re-connect this also applies to fiesta's and focus (F)

Focus
same heater speed resistor as mondeo
loud clicking noise from glove box area of car when first started, recirc motor gears stripped, budget fix put in non-recirc and unplug actuator (F)
wipers stop randomly on screen when single wipe flicked on, wiper relay on fuse box behind glove box (F)
No central locking, fuse blown on back of fuse box behind glove box, it is impossible replace without removing fuse box 20A fuse,this is usually blown by one of the central locking/lock actuators, replace fuse do not replace fuse box, then lock/unlock car, one door usually does not work this is the one to replace actuator on (F)

VW Passat various problems with convenience electrics ie central locking, interior lights, windows, alarm, caused by water leak into passenger footwell soaking control unit in floor in front of seat (T)
will add some more later, Jack Daniels taking over.

Printer1
21st November, 2009, 12:15 AM
BMW e46

Coolant blower motor not working, Broken trigger wire in loom on right top end of radiator ( looking from front) (F)

VW Sharran 2001 shape

Radio not working, blowing fuse on bottom row of fuse box, wiring plug on rear of spedo assy shorted out, new plug & hours of splicing & soldering, plug & wires available from VW (F)

Merc C240

Rear lights, front lights, indicators all coming on at random with ign off, water in multifunction control unit 1 (lower part of fuse box left front at bulkhead (looking from front) (F)

MGF 1.8 vvc

Idle problems, running rich, stalling, not revving to 7000, one of the VVC solonoids internal shorted (F)

drakov
21st November, 2009, 01:33 AM
Nice work guys, just one thought can you put the codings in brackets (F) (A) (R) (T) :-)


Hopefully in a few months time, we can do a cut and paste and have a print out

The jobs yours Meat-Head :laugh:

^^TommyTee
21st November, 2009, 01:55 AM
Headrests in Vauxall Astras Becomes loose

caused by too much weight being applied while shagging the wife (F)

Strong smell of Greenery in the car Too much weed smoking going on (F)

lol

z786
28th November, 2009, 10:26 PM
Toyota Avensis D4d - Non Starter
----------------------------------------
Problem
----------------------------------------
Car not starting, No error codes, Car is turning over Ok, Battery is good?

----------------------------------------
Diagnosis
----------------------------------------
Give it a push start, you know clutch down, second gear, your "mates" pushing it from behind like Sly Stalone in the film Lockup lol

----------------------------------------
Solution/Cause
----------------------------------------
anywayz if the car starts on push, replace Starter Motor, even tho it turns good, it needs to build a good amount of pressure to start engine. (F)


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mini One- No Power Steering
----------------------------------------
Problem
----------------------------------------
The Power steering is non existent, Fuses are fine

----------------------------------------
Diagnosis
----------------------------------------
If you go into the Hydro Power Steering option in your scanner and get error message like "make sure ignition is turned on" even tho evry other ecu in the car communicates perfectly, or if there is a power related DTC

----------------------------------------
Solution/Cause
----------------------------------------
The fusebox in engine bay needs to be unbolted (make sure battery is disconnected!), underneath the box (abit awkward to get to there will be 4 bolted fuses http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:HUMKGrokBuuqlM:http://www.bdbatteries.com/images/bolt_fuse.jpg (http://www.bdbatteries.com/images/bolt_fuse.jpg), cant rememba wich 1 (check autodata), unbolt it and replace (replace with same one if it is ok) put evrything back together and you'l find power steering is working like it never went dead, personally i have found there to be power issues, i.e too much voltage from altenator, removing the fuse resets the circuit (F)

cristec
10th December, 2009, 10:37 PM
I have just thought of some more

Rover 75 no start, or no rev counter and temp gauge, look in plenum chamber which houses pollen filter and ECU usually full of water, due to blocked drain, clear with curtain wire, this is also useful for clearing drain tubes on sunroofs.
Also if the water level has been very high it can also fill the glow plug relay, white box next to the ECU.
If removed and dried out usually OK.(F)
No start on petrol Rover 75, fuel regulator in fuel tank, comes undone it has a bayonet type fixing and the two halves twist apart, so no fuel pressure although the pump is running.
I usually refit and then drill a small hole, and screw a self tapper in to stop it happening again.

Citroen Saxo no heater blower or power steering, ignition switch faulty.
One of the ignition feeds has failed. (F)

BMW E36 no fuel gauge, sender unit in tank black wire broken, just re-solder.

Golf no rear washer although pump working, connector by NS hinge under headlining blows apart when washers used with frozen jet.

Mondeo leak from headlining by OS B pillar, and no rear washer, hose joint come apart on hose under roof lining.(F)

Escort Zetec hunting at idle, PCV breather valve faulty, it's on the front right of the engine near the top of the cylinder block, to prove it's the case of the problem, pinch the hose that is attached to it with a pair of pliers, if the idle stabilises then replace it (F)

S type Jaguar
No heat, full heat on one or both sides of the car, dual water control valve faulty, or the permanent 12 volt feed to the valve, centre pin of connector, if no 12volt feed, break is usually behind NS headlamp.(F)

No reversing sensors, first check control unit it's in the spare wheel well which fills with water and fills the controller with water.
If OK then put the car in reverse with the ignition on engine off, and put your ear on each of the sensors in turn, you should hear a ticking noise from each one, it is a very directional sound you might have to move your ear about a bit to hear the ticking, if one is not ticking it's faulty or it has bad connections to it, this applies to all cars with reversing sensors.(F)

X type diesel, poor performance and EML on, wires break to the MAF sensor, sometimes they break completely or sometimes they break internally,
where the wiring goes into the plug, if you pull gently they usually pull out from the plug(F)

No radiator cooling fan, earth connections under battery tray, corroded or broken.(F)

Will add more later.

mintoe
19th February, 2010, 08:10 AM
Hi all,

F
I came across this today, Citroen Nemo diesel had been for a servicethey told him he was losing brake fluid !
Anyway we had to check for the loss today, the level was down to the clutch pipe, closer examination showed a small holein the clutch filler pipe, There is a thick wiring loom running from the top of the engine past the clutch pipe where it is chaffing .
one to watch for ?
all the best................mintoe

vevepatronu
19th February, 2010, 10:22 AM
All opel with 2.0 and 2.2 Diesel engines, the key flasher on the dash, in 4th or 5th gear and the car lose power at 3000rpm.... check the vacum rubber pipes because it cracks and get false air there, are almost elusive, you must check them all one by one, after will replace the one cracked will work like a charm :) (F)

zorgman
30th March, 2010, 07:52 PM
F sharan/galaxy/alhambra 1.9tdi
no clocks wierd readings on temp,fuel etc check the brown earths on the round multiplug to the left of battery.
erractic reverse lights rear wiper and lock check the right side rubber boot for broke wires but dont rejoin them insert a new piece of wire as the old wire is now too brittle.
wipers slow then remove and lube the shafts on them..

vectra autos.
no gears then check the water level as the internal cooling pipe for autobox has corroded thru and filled up box with water, cost to fix ?2000

autotrans
31st March, 2010, 03:32 PM
Zorgman is right about water in the transmission oil on
Vectras , but is also common on zafiras / astras mercedes it seems to be linked to vehicles using a
VALEO radiator 2002 + .

m3vuv
20th May, 2010, 09:22 AM
Freelander noise from the arse end!
Hi all,had a freelander in the workshop the other week with a wierd noise from the o/s rear,sounded like the wheel bearing was breaking up then completly changed with the road conditions into a sort of creaking,turned out the captive nuts in the body that the rear subframe mounts bolt into had came detached from the body due to metal fatigue,a bastard to find as it isnt visible with the subframe bolted up,unbolt the subframe and drop ir a few inches and the problem is visible,hope this is of use to somone,regards Paul m3vuv

m3vuv
20th May, 2010, 09:31 AM
susing out faulty wiring looms,ie fuse blowing! remove the blown fuse take a headlight bulb stick 2 wires on it with lucar male spades on them and stick the blades in place of the fuse,then when its in the fault condition ie drawing a heavy current the bulb lights up giving a visual indication of the faul occuring,its then possible to wiggle the loom at variouse points and watch when the bulb flicker or goes out,this gives a good idea where the fault lies ie chaffed wire etc,cheers Paul m3vuv

m3vuv
20th May, 2010, 09:39 AM
04 isuzu rodeo pick up,side lamps and stop lights comming on together,had this in yesterday,the problem was in the factoty fitted towbar electrics,the pin in the trailer socket was loose and had been pushed backwards so the screw in the pin holding the red wire(stop lamp feed) was shorting on the screw in the pin holding the black wire(side lamp feed),simple fix is replace the socket with a decent quality one and throw the factory piece of junk in the bin!!,cheers Paul m3vuv

dafdiagnos
30th May, 2010, 02:35 PM
iveco 75e15 blows fuse ign on - non start, wiring to fuel filter water trap sensor shorts in chassis. fix or quicker to chop off wiring at bulkhead connector

dik
1st July, 2010, 05:33 PM
Vauxhall 1.7 cdti Z17DTL (fitted to Vauxhall Astra G & H models from 2002 to 2009)

Fault: Mil on error code P0105 boost pressure sensor circuit range/performance. Engine won't rev over 3000 rpm

Cause: inlet manifold swirl flaps sticking closed (F)

Fix: Push/pull linkage to open flaps, remove vacuum pipe to acuator valve and block pipe, clear code, engine runs fine with flaps permanantly open.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Audi TT 1.8 2001

Fault: A/C fans and cooling fans not working

cause: burnt connection on fuze above battery (F)

Fix: any way you like!
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the_big_d
2nd July, 2010, 09:19 AM
Citroen Saxo no heater blower or power steering, ignition switch faulty.
One of the ignition feeds has failed. (F)

Just noticed this one so thought i'd add to it, also causes the HRW to stop working. Its caused by a faulty ignition switch. It can safley be rectified by bridging the wiring on the 2 pin brown connector at the ignition switch on the loom side of the wiring not the end that goes to the ignition switch. This bypasses the faulty part of the switch & was an official citroen bulliten. Takes about 5 minutes & you can then charge for a new ignition switch anyway.

vag123
2nd July, 2010, 11:54 AM
Focus 1.4 and 1.6 16v speedo inaccurate (Sometimes after changing spark plugs)
Wiring for cht sensor (Cylinder Head Temperature) touching plug lead, Cable tie away and normal operation resumes (T)

Mobilemick
15th July, 2010, 12:18 PM
Ford Escort Mark V join two black wires on cdl module to bypass
immboliser

How does that work then, and what year ?

PierreTheron
12th August, 2010, 11:36 PM
Ford Ranger 2.5d Glow system-- WL 81 timer unit (Right side footwell)
No rev counter or rev counter erratic. This affects afterglow as well . Rev counter pick up front tip bent. Remove. put in vice take hammer an chisel and bent straight.(F)

No glow while ignition on when cold(F)
-Check earth wires going to glow timer control unit are connected on intake manifold.
No Afterglow after cold start- Plenty smoke till heat guage starts lifting.Check rev counter is working,Check temp sender (grey 2wire unit ) under intake manifold is connected and wiring to control unit.(F)

If immobiliser been removed and there is no rev counter, bridge the two white wires at the immobiliser plug, on some you must trace the wiring further to a relay and do some bridging there as well.(F)

Mitsubishi pajero
No glow when ignition on-check black earth connected near injector pump going to control unit.(F)
No afterglow Check alternator charging.Unplug 2 pin temp sender on top of head,There must be afterglow then.(F)


VW Jetta Diesel

Glowplug light flashes on dash.
Replace brake light switch.even if brakelights works.(F)


Renault Megane 2 - Ignition not switch on. Not Start.

shows sometimes steering locked. steering unlocked..

Send to me !!!!!!!!!!!!

Reset the steering lock and replace battery!!! (F x 2)

nutloose
13th August, 2010, 08:46 PM
Car: Ford fiesta 1.4 petrol 2005 without ABS.
Fault: speedo stops working

Symptoms:
No speedo or odometer and no PCM fault codes for VSS
IC faults for VSS and ODO implausible values.
No live data in PCM for VSS

check:
VSS output and wiring check OK.

DO:-
reprogram PCM due to corrupt calibration, spiked ecu?

result:- fixed

Thanks to ATP Hednesford

roscotierney
14th August, 2010, 10:19 PM
here's a few

transit connect not charging
nearly always wires broken in lomm to 3 pin plug on alternator
same in old focus diesels f

bmw e60 new 5 series
not switch on and not accept key
battery regulatin control unit faulty
its a control unit on the pos lead of the battery
when faulty pulls down the can line
just plug it out t

peug 206
brake lights stuck on
swtch is on the passengers side and k gets knocked out by passengers feet f


old type mondeo
to check alarm
press bonnet switch 6 or 7 times quickly
puts it into test mode
then every time you open a door or move a switch the horn sounds
very handy

all vw diesels
drive belt squels on full lock
clutch pulley on alternator

Floyd
16th August, 2010, 12:39 PM
Rover 75 ECU

It was mentioned in a previous post about that area of relays and ecu filling up with water. If you dry them out car generally starts. However, if it doesn't, remove ecu, remove lid clean all suspect connections flux them and resolder with soldering iron or hot air.
I fixed two like this in the same week, both had filled up ecu half way with water due to a heavy downpour and blocked drain hole. (F)

Furax
16th August, 2010, 01:02 PM
Pug 306, flashing Airbag light (F)
Fix : Wire to pretensioner is broken under the driver or passenger seat (usually the driver)

Citroen AX, Locking or windows faulty/intermittant (F)
Fix : Wires broken in the join between the door and body, drivers side usually

Audi and probably any VAG (most 2001 on) (T)
After replacing the battery or if its gone totally flat the auto close from the fob doesn't work anymore, nor does the auto up/down feature from the switch. Hold down the switch for 10seconds once the window has moved fully down, and again for up. This will reset the windows and enable the feature again.

Nissan 200SX S13, the updated model around L reg. This fault is specific to this year of production
Fault : Poor starting and rough idle
Cause: Crap quality valves have worn themselves down resulting in low compression. Full set of valves required.
New left old right.
http://cabletiemotorsport.com/gallery/gallery/thumbcache/large_10ebbea12a608c79babd52eaa34c55a4.jpg

Faded plastic headlights (F)
common on clios and ford focus's, a rag and some cutting compound will have them clear and shiny in no time. you can use tcut but it takes a long time you are better off with genuine cutting compound like farcela G3. Also works on clock facias if you scratch it when removing.

oep
16th August, 2010, 01:14 PM
These are 'bout bmw 2.0d to 3.0d (up 2003/4, same is probably after...)
(F) - accelerate above 3000rpm not possible - check maf and check inline pump under driver seat.
(F) - car turns of and loose power when or jerks a bit with 1/4 tank full (15-17liters) check/change pump in tank.
(F) - steptronic wobble when put in reverse - check engine mounts 2x, check trans. mounts x3
(F) - atf oil under front of car - remove trans. cooler and check pipes - corded. Fix by soldering it no need new cooler, flush and clean before install + add fresh oil to trans.

kingpappy
16th August, 2010, 06:29 PM
This is a great thread to share information and each others experiences

Why not start a thread thats dedicated to specific manufacturers ?

VAG Group
BMW
Mercedes
JLR

:idea:

carclima
16th August, 2010, 08:55 PM
This is a great thread to share information and each others experiences

Why not start a thread thats dedicated to specific manufacturers ?

VAG Group
BMW
Mercedes
JLR

:idea:

even this advices looks very helpfull.. I personaly like diagnostic more than experience..look on this case

mercedes 220CDI engine,after shuting down engine bateru completly dead after 50 min..so it is a realy big power surge..after hours of measeurnig and dismantling parts finaly found in engine block water heater alway ON..drains about 35amps..IF I have someone experince and somebody told mee check f.....heater ..on my way I spend whole day to find and disconect heater...it is bolted on engine block positiv suply via starter wire....

ziggystardust
16th August, 2010, 09:24 PM
top-speed 50 kmh , faultcode wheel-sensor left front , changed the baering , in the end it was the ecu

Fordracer4life
17th August, 2010, 03:18 AM
F 06 NISSAN TITAN PU v8 stalls and no start mostly hot for a half hour. No codes IPDM intelegent power distribution module (fuse box) bad relays or control. relays not available seperate mounts behind main fuse box passenger side firewall

F 2000 Nissan Frontier v6 runs great for days other times it bogs like bad air flow meter no codes all data looks good. ac drain partially plugged pcm was just getting damp mounted straight under hvac box on tunnel.

F 02 Grand Cherokee 4.7l low fuel pressure after fuel filter replacement runs like crap. Three port fuel filter has pressure regulator buit in. cheap lube shop filter 20 psi junk out of box new dealer filter 60 psi runs great

ninja123
26th November, 2010, 08:47 PM
Right guys, Im not sure if you check members profiles, but if you check mine you will see what my main job is.
I have one massive database of common faults and fixes, dating back to the seventies up to present day.
Not everthing is on there, but me and my 3000+ collueges strive to find faults and fixes/by-passes every hour of every day.
SO, if all else fails JUST AASK!!!!!!
I couldnt possibly add it all on here, it would take a lifetime.
regards,
the ninja
ps, send a pm so I know some info is needed, cant get on here all the time.

BeianM
18th January, 2011, 12:55 AM
Becm fault, no power from relay 7 fed by fuse 8. this does several circuits. This car had no power to the hevac display, no blower fans working even if i fed 12v to the circuit that lit the hevac & powered the cig lighter & radio. It would also keep the heated front screen on + other stuff that drained the battery.
I got a second hand becm, swapped out the lower board with the original so the car kept its immo & ecu info. Fitted it & all was ok. Hevac worked ok including the fans & no battery drain. However this board was not fully populated with relays so some circuits did not work & failed fuses were reported. I went back to the original board & removed the relay & tested it. It worked ok, traced the circuit to a shorted diode :)

khalcdi
18th January, 2011, 09:00 PM
hi;
(F) RENAULT LAGUNA 2.2 DCI : engine stop at idle
with CLIP only DTC is: DF072. Fuel pressure information. 5DEF
ONLY CHANGE Fuel pressure solenoid.

2muchtecnology
3rd February, 2011, 12:05 AM
Peugeot 406 HDI. Sorted out our third one of these in the last 6 months with the same problem. Came in on the end of a rope (not so unusual for a Peugeot) It was a non starter as the sound deadening under the carpet was pi55ed wet through. Carpet was perfectly dry on all occasions. Stripped all the trim to gain access to the swimming pool and directly under the accelerator pedal there is a multi plug swimming with all the connections well and truly ~~~~ed. done away with the multi plug and now everything is working. Knock the plug out the floor so it drains away. dont know where the water is comming from, leave that for someone else to find.

frontpager
4th February, 2011, 02:53 PM
Skoda Octavia with engine managment light on for no reason. Check to see if the reverse lights are working and if not change relay for reverse lights. Problem solved and it was not the mass meter as diagnosed by stealer.
Pager.

krazylegz
21st July, 2011, 09:41 PM
erratic idling on a nissan 2.2 dci, good changes it will be the suction control valve as this is a common fault on them apparently

khalcdi
22nd July, 2011, 06:15 PM
(F)
GOLF5 TDI YEAR 2008 , whene i turn ignation ON the fan start to hight speed .
you don't find any dtc in all ecu's
after testing wires..... i find the probleme in pressostat sensor , i change it thats all.

Liteace
2nd September, 2011, 10:12 AM
you can use tcut but it takes a long time you are better off with genuine cutting compound like farcela G3. Also works on clock facias if you scratch it when removing.






"Also works on clock facias if you scratch it when removing"

Why O Why O Why would you want to remove clock facia ??? :hmmmm2: :)

rsilva
1st October, 2011, 09:06 AM
Car: Skoda 2001/02
Problem: electric steering works erraticly with steering wheel without pressure and light flicker
Solution: Torque sensor breakdown (F)

Regards all

dik
8th February, 2012, 01:36 PM
Found on the web, might be of use

CORSA ELECTRIC POWER STEERING

There are some common faults with the Corsa Electric Power Steering
that manifest themselves as one or both of these conditions

1: The car pulls to one side or is easier turn in one direction when
all else seems to be correct. E.g. Tyres equal, steering and
suspension geometry good, brakes and wheel bearings good, driven on
a straight and level road.

2: When turning, the steering will randomly seem to jam or stick for
an instant, and the steering wheel becomes suddenly heavy and then
reverts to normal.

Both of these can be rectified using a few commonly available tools
and less than an hour's work. By many accounts the solution from your
friendly Vauxhall Opel dealer is to replace the entire column.

FAULT DESCRIPTION

The most common problem by far with the Corsa EPS is caused by the
torque sensing mechanical components wearing with age leading to an
error with the torque sensor reading that gradually gets worse. The
situation can be rectified by adjusting the position of the torque
sensor to a new zero position.

1: Steering pulls or has a preference for one direction
================================================== ======
Full details of this procedure are available with photographs
elsewhere, but it is worthwhile mentioning now that you will need a
good degree of dexterity and a few useful tools to achieve it. Tools:
Medium sized Phillips screwdriver, T2.5 Torx bit, flexible driver,
small 2BA or 1/4" ring spanner, 13mm ring spanner.

Method:
Turn the Steering wheel to expose the two pop-on screw covers on the
retaining screws for the steering column switch covers, remove the
covers and the two phillips screws underneath. Remove the three
phillips screws underneath the lower steering column switch cover and
remove the cover. Remove the fuse cover and take out the two screws
beneath the fuse box to allow the lower section of the dash to be
pulled away.
On the lower right hand side of the steering column assembly just
inside the dash, there are two torx screws holding the steel cover
plate that protects the torque sensor. Remove both of these using the
flexible driver and T2.5 torx bit. Remove the cover. Before
proceeding, mark the position of sensor body relative to the steering
column body.
If you only need to reset the torque sensor position, you need only
loosen the screws to allow adjustment. If you need to fix the
sticking steering problem then the sensor must be removed. The torque
sensor is retained with two more T2.5 torx screws. The lower
retaining screw can be accessed fairly easily by pulling the lower
right section of the dash away from the metal structure. The upper
one is more difficult and may be slackened using the torx bit in a
small ring spanner.
Next, turn the steering column to gain access to the bolt that
secures the lower steering column universal joint to the rack spigot
that projects up through the floor. Remove the retaining bolt and
swivel the joint away.
If you have a short piece of plastic drain pipe or a cardboard tube,
slide it over the universal joints so that the steering column is
free to turn without jamming on anything (like your hands).

BEFORE TURNING ON THE IGNITION, READ ALL OF THIS BIT!.
When the ignition is turned on and the engine started, the EPS will
drive the steering column depending on reading of the torque sensor.
If you do this now, there is a chance that the wheel will be driven
continously in one direction. The column has a position sensor at the
top behind the steering wheel that will count 30 turns from end to
end before it jams. Check this before proceeding. Then turn the wheel
back to centre (15 turns from one extreme).
Now be ready to turn off the ignition if the next step causes the
wheel to spin rapidly. Turn on the ignition and start the engine. The
steering may spin rapidly, Switch off if it does. Rotate the torque
sensor fractionally and turn on the engine again. Repeat this process
until the steering is still when the engine is running.
Then, give the steering wheel a short tug in one direction and let it
settle, then do the same in the other direction. The wheel may
continue a little or might bounce back a little. If necessary adjust
the torque sensor position until the behaviour is identical in both
directions.
Now switch off, and check the steering centre position by counting
the turns, and reset it in the central position.
Repeat the torque sensor setting procedure to ensure that the
behaviour is identical in both directions. Adjust if necessary. When
you are satisfied that the steering is balanced and neutral turn off
the ignition, and tighten the sensor retaining screws.

Refit the Sensor cover, re-assemble the lower universal joint, refit
the covers and screws and test drive.


2: Random Jamming or "notchy" steering.
========================================
This fault is caused by the mechanical components that translate the
steering column effort (Control Demand) into motion that is
proportional to torque. Direction is inferred by the magnitude of the
torque being positive or negative. This mechanical translation is
managed using a slant-pivot coupling connecting the upper and lower
parts of the steering column that operates a sliding collar normally
held in a central position by springs. The motion of the slant-pivot
coupling is limited, and at either extreme allows direct coupling
between the upper and lower sections of the steering column. The
torque sensor detects the position of the sliding collar and produces
an electrical signal to represent the effort and direction of turning
the steering wheel. The EPS system then activates the motor that
drives the lower section of the steering column in the correct
direction to reduce the sensor reading to zero. i.e. No more turning
is demanded.
The problem occurs when the slant-pivot coupling or the sliding
collar bind or lock at some position in the travel. The components
are lubricated when built, but the lubricant degrades over time and
eventually hardens and dries where it is thinnest. When the steering
is turned slowly or by a small amount the friction at some points is
enough to make the coupling bind rather than slide, causing a zero
torque reading that effectively removes all power assistance until
the coupling moves. To the driver this seems like the steering just
got very heavy or jammed for an instant.
It is possible to reinvigorate the assembly using a mixture of
ordinary gear oil and a molybdenum disulphide based additive such as
molyslip or stop smoke.

Method:
Carry out the same procedure as case 1, then mark the correct
position of the torque sensor and remove it.
Inject no more than 15cc of the Oil & MoS2 lubricant mixture into the
void around the sliding collar and replace the torque sensor
carefully. It will be necessary to rotate the sensor until the sensor
actuator engages with the sliding collar correctly. Until the sensor
is correctly engaged it will fail to seat properly. Do not force it
into place or use the screws to try and pull it into position. The
sensor arm is biased to one end by a spring and it will have moved
when the sensor was extracted. Offer it into place and feel for the
situation where the sensor arm spring tension can be detected. When
it is in the right position it will just go into place easily and
then it can be rotated to the correct neutral position as previously
marked.

Before replacing everything else, start the engine and check that the
steering behaves properly. If it turns in one direction switch off
immediately and reset the torque sensor position by following the
procedure for case 1.

After lubricating the internal components, a few days may need to
elapse before the lubricant penetrates all parts of the coupling.
Over this time the steering will gradually become lighter and may
start to favour one direction as the coupling finds a new equilibrium
position. If this occurs it will be necessary to reset the torque
sensor position again

and a slightly easier option from one of the replies

"You don't actually need to disengage the steering column. You can use a multi-meter or do what I did and jack the car up so front wheels of ground and adjust sensor and turn ign on and see if it trys turninig itself to left or right. If it stays straight then jobs done. (albeit not the most scientific way it is much less work and even with a few attempts still less works than disengaging the steering etc)."

khalcdi
8th February, 2012, 11:32 PM
passat 2.0 TDI year 2009 , can't start the car , whene i turn ign ON i got nothing just klik klik klik klik.
with VAS you can't diagnostic nothing only some calculator.
after verefing i find the big relay in fuse box engine ( we have 2 relay one for air injection pump and the second for PRINCIPAL IGN CIRCUIT
i change this one and car start again :congrats:

neatseo
9th February, 2012, 12:08 AM
BMW 316

Rear indicators faulty. Earth wire is too thin, remove and splice thicker earth wire (F)

turbotecnics
27th April, 2012, 11:13 PM
Some air mass and turbocharger pressure error codes, mil ligth one, poor performance, (only cars with electric egr) take plastic cover out of it clean everything and put some hight temperature grease. You get one new car, works on Opel and vauxhall too.

tapiru
28th April, 2012, 06:52 AM
Tks guys some of those was wery useful and honest I applied and work

ecutuners
28th April, 2012, 09:10 AM
Had a few of these come in not starting, dtc code for injection relay fault, the fault is a faulty piezo crystal injector, unplug each 1 and try to start, when you find the fauly one the car will run on 3 cyclinders

wiseman
29th April, 2012, 09:04 AM
Mercedes ML w163 CDI

Brake lights won't work, you would think it was a brake light switch at pedal, some don't even have a pedal switch and use a pressure switch at master cylinder.
Wiring loom from the from the Abs pump runs past the nearside inner wing and rubs through a wire stopping the brake lights from working but still allows you to take the gearbox out of park.

Remove the washer bottle and nearside headlight to access the wiring.

bjellys
29th April, 2012, 11:52 AM
Vauxhall Agila Z12XE 2001

Fault : Loss of all dash instruments

This due to a multi-plug connection problem behind the passenger side foot-well kick panel ( for a right hand drive car )
I think it was the white wire about 4mm . I just soldered the wires bypassing the multi plug
You would never think that could give a bad connection but it does.
I got this info from an AA guy while buying some spares he pulled it up from the AA database .

MJRVR
2nd June, 2012, 07:30 PM
Corsa C intermitant non starting.
Bad connection behind the speedo cluster, can check by pushing on the clocks and seeing if that cures the problem.

If it does probably needs packing out behind, later ones had a wiring connector mod from factory.

Martin

m3vuv
17th June, 2012, 10:30 AM
this may help some folks!,had a bmw mini with low oil pressure at tickover when warm,it had the wrong oil filter fitted,the original was about 1cm longer than the replacment fram or coopers filter,even tho it was listed for the car!,it presses on a valve at the bottom on the oil filter housing,replaced the filter with the propper filter and problem solved,this happened after a service at evans halshaw lincoln who said the oil pump was ~~~~ed and would be ?700 to fix!!!! ****ers!

m3vuv
17th June, 2012, 10:44 AM
04 plate merc e320 cdi,total loss of brakes with a totaly solid pedal!,low battery voltage due to a ~~~~ed alternator.

big-ted
18th June, 2012, 09:13 PM
Just to give something back, today a 2002 Mercedes e class comes in on an AA wagon, non start, stuck in gear, Checked the obvious brake light switch and then the gearbox ecu for oil ingress both of which were fine.

There was no gear selection on the display, non talk to the scanner from the gearbox. so gear box fault initially it seemed.

Checked the fuses, then on the N/S under the big black cover with 4 screws in here are the ecu,s and a thing called the K40 on the K40 are 6 fuses and number 3 a 10A was blown, so replaced turned on the ignition the N came on the display for a second before going back to lines. The fuse had blown again, so this circuit had a short on it.

If you end up with this try unplugging the wire nearest to the engine/bulkhead "G" it is labelled on the k40 block, it as a twisted pair of wires, short gone everything works except the mysterious object on the other end of the twisted wires, Turns out to be the fan/cooler that blows air in to the ecu's

So reason for non start stuck in gear a seized blower motor :proud:

Hope this saves somebody a lot of time

Ted

ngoncalo
8th September, 2012, 09:15 PM
hi, i have a renault kangoo to repair very strange problem, car at 2500 rpm turn off. in the other garage car enter they chanbe injetion pump and engine head. anyone had already this problem??? kangoo is 1.9d .
thanks

afonso rico
8th September, 2012, 10:10 PM
hello
replace injetion pump and you solved your problem

ngoncalo
9th September, 2012, 07:07 AM
thanks for your help friend, but already have a new one and problem didnt solve. thats the strange thing. problem not injection pump.

mtechno
9th September, 2012, 09:31 PM
You will get more help if you post your questions in help & discussions! This is for members offering tricks & tips not really fault diagnosis.

purdy
8th November, 2012, 11:16 PM
Passenger tank scavenger not transferring fuel to primary side of tank. Gauges average both sides together. When the primary runs dry the scavenged side is full.guage reads 1/4 but car stops . Cheep solution. Remove float from scavenged side of tank. Tank never reads full but you all way know when you will run out of fuel. Or spend loads of money

utcatmech
3rd January, 2013, 05:00 AM
2009 Mack truck turbo actuator actuating turbo when left turn signal on. Faulty ground wire in the trailer connection plug, back feeding into the turbo (F)

omglol
6th January, 2013, 09:43 PM
Problem: Fiat 1.9 JTD (8V/16V) engines hesitate (usually after fitting new EGR valve).

Solution: fit EGR restrictor plate - 8V engines Fiat part number 71751469, 16V engines Fiat part number 55225287

More info here: http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/f152/1-9-jtd-88kw-egr-big-problem-311394/#post1826509

m3evo
7th January, 2013, 12:40 AM
Seat Toledo/Vw bora 99 to 04 no speedo, fuse for speedo is blown, also no reverse lights.

Wire for power to reverse lights broken and shorted to earth usually found where they run along the hinge to boot lid.

Also broken wires here can cause faults with boot lock solenoid.

Renault Megane's scenic fat ass shape, ignition switches on but no power to starter, and fan runs constantly. Broken wires can be found in loom that runs along front of battery. Open loom, usually orange wire is corroded (probably due to the very fine quality of copper wire they use in renaults!)

metsat
28th January, 2013, 01:45 AM
if citroen c4 headlight level (up-down) trim dont work, check asthray ilumunation bulb, certainly broken.

mafia666
28th January, 2013, 03:27 AM
Renault master (around 2001-2003) model wipers don't go back into home position, turns off with delay - blown fuse for windshield washer.
vag group auto with oil temperature sensor - low level lamp on, but oil level is good, sensor, wires also - micro switch in hoods lock.

ciptel07
7th February, 2013, 11:03 PM
Renault megane2 --- car starts after 20-25 seconds after pressing the START button. wiring stopped. problem near the battery (NO DTC, but water temperature <100*)
cause: battery exhaust hose not connected

DACIA LOGAN 14-8v (2005-2007) - misfire on cylinder 1, Solution: Replace belt and roller accessories.



THANKS

ciptel07
7th February, 2013, 11:10 PM
RENAULT MASTER 2.5 DCI - G9U engine stops walking DTC diesel pressure loss.
Solution: Replace the common rail ramp

scoot
8th February, 2013, 12:16 AM
e class pass headlamp total failure bad main pos connection sam unit under panel under passengers feet open up drill hole solder and bypass ezzy peezy long live dk:wavey:

ghostridersa
8th February, 2013, 02:15 AM
Nice work guys, good info.:congrats::congrats::congrats:

scoot
8th February, 2013, 08:48 PM
08 volvo wipers not working pos neg lin all seem ok .siren in scuttle panel back up battery leaking onto harness corrupting lin data .I did examine this car but dident find the fault but that was report from dealer regards scoot

cezarycezary8
4th April, 2013, 07:46 PM
peugeot/citroen 2007 1,6 hdi engine blower running after ignition on, no dtc's in ECU, no dtc's in aircondition.
Solution: Replace A/C hight presure sensor. Checked on two cars.

huwalsh
25th February, 2014, 12:00 AM
W210 cdi auto no crank cant select gears check small relay unit beside ecu all fuses should have power if not bad pcb relay in unit. Cut hole in top of unit to remove or desolder all connector pins for access your choice.
Done one today

rideon
20th September, 2016, 07:12 PM
Windscreens fogging up...
Checked and double-checked A/C filter , recirculating flap ,heating/cooling,wet carpet/seats/water ingress...
In the process of doing that,found out that the windscreen was a heated one!...checked that too ,working...
:banghead:1(one) hour later (F)found that the car was ok but customer is !@#$%^ mentally challenged ...

darrenhyland
26th May, 2020, 12:16 PM
Problem: ecm failure in an M5 after battery flat.......sorted it but customer didnt want to pay full price. Solution: drove the rag out of it past customers house for two days.....customer paid:chuncky::chuncky:

darrenhyland
31st May, 2020, 11:51 PM
Had a 14 focus with keyless system. Battery went flat and the key fob had emergency key missing. Customer had two locksmiths out and both failed to pick open. As the car had tinted windows the customer didn't want to break glass and refused to drill the lock. Called me out and I tried the usual methods including jump cable to the starter lead but fob was not unlocking, lock wouldn't pic due to previous lockies efforts....wafers were stuck. I bagged it and got a rod in and popped key holder cover on steering column. Fished in the fob into the slot and with another rod pushed the start button. Result was doors popped. Synced the key fob and sorted new emergency key and lock. Sometimes you gotta think outside the box.