[turokas]

How to connect upausb to e39 odometer sw:13 hw:12 and eeprom 93s66?

I have found one picture about in-circuit programming but I think pin numbers with this programmer is different than with upausb. There is upausb pin numbers in picture with white background.

Could someone verify connection points?


thanks..

[PremierD]

Originally Posted by turokas How to connect upausb to e39 odometer sw:13 hw:12 and eeprom 93s66? I have found one picture about in-circuit programming but I think pin numbers with this programmer is different than with upausb. There is upausb pin numbers in picture with white background. Could someone verify connection points? thanks..

You mean the s66 eeproms that tend to erase after a bad connection mate ......(you have a back up plan)....?

[turokas]

Originally Posted by PremierD You mean the s66 eeproms that tend to erase after a bad connection mate ......(you have a back up plan)....?

Is it possible to have it erased just reading it? If I broke it I think I have to take needles off, clean waxes off. Then put soic test clip on it and program again. I have found old sw13 bin from this board.

And I am not the first one with this car and old soldering points clearly visible =O

[raf0468]

best to desolder and read off the board.........

[turokas]

Originally Posted by raf0468 best to desolder and read off the board.........

Yes, think that is best solution but not easiest. Needle removing and putting back is really hard. I have seen how easy it is to destroy that little spiral spring. That's why I would like to try in-circuit way.

m35080 in-circuit programming has also worked well.

[turokas]

I am still hoping that someone has solution for me but if only way is to remove chip how can I get rid of that red stuff on the chip & solderings?

[88diablo]

Nitromoors paintstripper works for me everytime mate.

[drpeter]

Originally Posted by turokas How to connect upausb to e39 odometer sw:13 hw:12 and eeprom 93s66? I have found one picture about in-circuit programming but I think pin numbers with this programmer is different than with upausb. There is upausb pin numbers in picture with white background. Could someone verify connection points? thanks..

I tried it 2 times to do it this way (solder on back of board), no luck, reading is bad, mileage too high or dump too small. You have to remove the needles. Software 13 is a pain in the ass. if you don't like removing this kind of needles you can make a hole under the left plate. It looks messy but you can't see it afterwards. The hole on the picure is too big experimental :-), you can make it smaller.

Good luck.

[carbandit]

ffs drpeter.... that is messy.... my way of doing x5 e39 5s range rovers etc ...go into anglers /fisherman store and buy fly making scissors and hold the spring shaft from the side of the dash and grip towards the top plastic.. then lever up the needles making sure that the spring pin is not moving ..try on old dash cluster untill you get the hang of it and when replacing needles line them up behind the rest bar and then flip them over when to the proper way.....

a little lubricant on the needle shafts helps when replacing needles and if you may be doing car again.

[drpeter]

Originally Posted by carbandit ffs drpeter.... that is messy.... my way of doing x5 e39 5s range rovers etc ...go into anglers /fisherman store and buy fly making scissors and hold the spring shaft from the side of the dash and grip towards the top plastic.. then lever up the needles making sure that the spring pin is not moving ..try on old dash cluster untill you get the hang of it and when replacing needles line them up behind the rest bar and then flip them over when to the proper way..... a little lubricant on the needle shafts helps when replacing needles and if you may be doing car again.

Yes it is messy, but possible, the guy who did this said that it worked very well but it was his first experiment, the hole can be a lot smaller now :-). Thanks for the tip about the tool.
I used a big pincet for this but now I bring a visit to the fiskersman store.

[MOBILTRONIC]

Dashes with hw12 sw13 with E39 i worked with a BMW scanner 1:36 without any problems.By memory M35080 few times I managed to do business with this device, although it creates difficulties in practice.

[turokas]

Originally Posted by drpeter I tried it 2 times to do it this way (solder on back of board), no luck, reading is bad, mileage too high or dump too small. You have to remove the needles. Software 13 is a pain in the ass. if you don't like removing this kind of needles you can make a hole under the left plate. It looks messy but you can't see it afterwards. The hole on the picure is too big experimental :-), you can make it smaller. Good luck.

uuh, nice hole =D

There was no solution to know correct conneting points so I removed needles.

I connected dash to car and started inpa. Then I used INPAs activate function and 90 degrees for every meter. Next thing was to put little plastic tape to backround and mark with pen where pointers should show when activated with INPA. Now its easy to put needles back to same position using same proggie afterwards.

I also bought pliers that are in the picture to hold shafts. Fuel, speedo, rpm and temp was really easy to remove. Consumption gauge was really hard without extractor tool. I used paperclip and little bit small wire shell to center paperclip in needle hole. I pressed press needles shaft down with pliers and paperclip. Then I lift needle using fork, pushing shaft down with other hand. Reaaalllyyy hard work!!! Consumption needle extractor is quite expensive (60€) for one odometer.

In first picture the numbers are same as eproms pins. I was Really hard job to figure that out. But now I am sure about connection.

Then connected upausb and read it. I attached bin. Does it look good?

Next thing is to program that eeprom and fix pixel problems of the odometer. Anyone knows good solution how to make good contact with pcb and ribbon cable and fix that annoying missing pixel thing? I think 3M 9705 tape would be really good but I think I can't find it anywhere for cheap enough.

[drpeter]

Originally Posted by turokas uuh, nice hole =D There was no solution to know correct conneting points so I removed needles. I connected dash to car and started inpa. Then I used INPAs activate function and 90 degrees for every meter. Next thing was to put little plastic tape to backround and mark with pen where pointers should show when activated with INPA. Now its easy to put needles back to same position using same proggie afterwards. I also bought pliers that are in the picture to hold shafts. Fuel, speedo, rpm and temp was really easy to remove. Consumption gauge was really hard without extractor tool. I used paperclip and little bit small wire shell to center paperclip in needle hole. I pressed press needles shaft down with pliers and paperclip. Then I lift needle using fork, pushing shaft down with other hand. Reaaalllyyy hard work!!! Consumption needle extractor is quite expensive (60€) for one odometer. In first picture the numbers are same as eproms pins. I was Really hard job to figure that out. But now I am sure about connection. Then connected upausb and read it. I attached bin. Does it look good? Next thing is to program that eeprom and fix pixel problems of the odometer. Anyone knows good solution how to make good contact with pcb and ribbon cable and fix that annoying missing pixel thing? I think 3M 9705 tape would be really good but I think I can't find it anywhere for cheap enough.

Looks like your dump has an checksum error, what is the actual mileage?

[tachonow]

As I know Upa is not an incircuit read/write programmer. Need another. Manny times I have managed this job with PonyProg interface a little modified.

[MOBILTRONIC]

24Cxx only memory can be programmed IN CIRCUIT