Clio II PhII - immo, possible bad ECU

**XG555** · 15th July, 2016, 10:46 PM

Hello, I was driving with my Clio 2 dCi from 2003 and it suddenly died and the immobilizer light was stuck on without blinking. Towed it back to my house and review all the wiring and relays. Tried the second key and same happened.
So I decided to take the UCH from another Clio 2 dCi 2004 and key, still the same, if I used a different key chip with UCH it would blink very fast.

I managed to get it to work taking the ECU, UCH and key chip from the other Clio. The problem is, the original UCH was an N3 and this one is an N1, so I can't open driver side window, among other small issues.

Do you think the original ECU has gone bad? or is it just some coding? It has the same issues in the other 2004 Clio!
Will I have problems using another ECU+UCH+key ? Should I code some stuff, like the injection?

Original ECU was:
DDCR 80944J (R0410C081A)
SERIAL No 80770195 FWG

8200284277
HOM8200129063
12V= 08.06.03

Substitute ECU is:
DDCR R0410B027B (81102B)
SERIAL No 81813508 BXG

8200331477
8200374150
12V= 25.02.04

I only have a cheap Bluetooth clone of an OBDII adapter to connect it to my Android using Torque, no Clip unfortunately.

Can you give me some insight about this, please?

Best regards,

Marco

**albertros** · 16th July, 2016, 09:53 AM

Hi,
read the eeprom (93c66) in original uch and back it up.
transfer to n1 uch. If car starts the fault is uch. Now find good uch n3 and do same.
Not all n3 are the same congfig i.e. auto lights ect so swap eeprom with your configs loaded. If config wrong for your car you will get odd faults like drivers door not locking.

**rideon** · 16th July, 2016, 10:04 AM

Originally Posted by XG555

I only have a cheap Bluetooth clone of an OBDII adapter to connect it to my Android using Torque, no Clip unfortunately.

Can you give me some insight about this, please?

Well, first uninstall torque ,is useless,then use your phone to take some pictures
Aim it to the labels of your uch/ecu and focus on the numbers
now that you got the numbers you can go on a field trip to the scrapyard and return with the right parts...

**XG555** · 16th July, 2016, 11:21 AM

I've been able to erase faults with torque pro, that's the only reason I have it.

I don't have the hardware to read the EEPROM, I might know someone that has the proper equipment, will try to talk to the guy this week.
I've read somewhere that these ECUs frequently go bad with these symptoms, but wanted to check with you guys to get your opinion. A simple misconfiguration of the pair UCH+ECU could have blocked the immo, though this happened while I was driving wich suggests faulty ECU.

I already took the pictures, besides that I have 2 UCH-N2 lying around, one from the scrapyard and other from this very car that the previous owner changed due to some occasional malfunction, Renault fitted a UCH-N3 and programmed it in 2009.

Can the ECU go bad because some bad ground connection? I'm just a little afraid that the same happens to the one I fitted. And injectors don't need programming, right?

**albertros** · 16th July, 2016, 05:00 PM

You can always use the original eeprom but if it gets corrupted youve had it. only you can choose. You can buy eeprom prog for less than ?20.
The injector codes - if the engine revs they will be ok. If the engine starts but doesn't rev then the codes need programming.
If the codes are wrong, because they have been swapped then fine tuning not set, as that is what the codes do.

If you have auto lighing, see detector near wing mirror you will need n3, if not autolights then prob get away with n2

**Meat-Head** · 16th July, 2016, 10:51 PM

Err sounds odd, when you get it running check dynamo not overcharging?

if @lucaselectrical alternator from @eurocarparts chuck it away

**XG555** · 16th July, 2016, 11:30 PM

Originally Posted by Meat-Head

Err sounds odd, when you get it running check dynamo not overcharging?

if @lucaselectrical alternator from @eurocarparts chuck it away

wow!!! it is a lucas alternator, the other one stopped working...

**XG555** · 18th July, 2016, 03:27 PM

I've tested the voltage at the battery, did a youtube video because I noticed some hesitation from the engine and a small voltage drop, might this be the reason for all this electrical malfunction?

**Meat-Head** · 18th July, 2016, 06:59 PM

Awesome video must be only ever Lucas alternater that works.

when dips to 13 Presume your Turing lights on/off?

look in airbag at codes great for voltage logging

**rideon** · 18th July, 2016, 07:01 PM

Forget about alternator for now,not faulty ,and not his fault your ecu died....
Love your DMM.. never saw one with Clipboard01.jpg logo...

**shadow12** · 18th July, 2016, 07:20 PM

Most problems with these are down to wiring faults, have you checked connected block in under bonnet fuse box, immobiliser should not kick in once engine is running, when immo light on constant usually wiring

**XG555** · 18th July, 2016, 08:58 PM

Originally Posted by Meat-Head

Awesome video must be only ever Lucas alternator that works.

when dips to 13 Presume your Turing lights on/off?

look in airbag at codes great for voltage logging

Thanks! I wasn't switching anything electrical, I was just filming it at idle, that's why I made the video with the voltage drops for no apparent reason. I did the test with the headlights on and the voltage would drop to a ~13.3V and steady.

Originally Posted by rideon

Forget about alternator for now,not faulty ,and not his fault your ECU died....
Love your DMM.. never saw one with Clipboard01.jpg logo...

The idea about the alternator checks out with the fact that I was downshifting at the time the car died, so the engine revved to ~3000rpm and that may have caused an increase in the voltage by the alternator and the ECU going dead.
The multimeter was something a friend of mine brought from a trip to south Korea...I guess they were trying to say FLUKE

cheaper than a cup of coffee though

Originally Posted by shadow12

Most problems with these are down to wiring faults, have you checked connected block in under bonnet fuse box, immobiliser should not kick in once engine is running, when immo light on constant usually wiring

I did tear apart everything in that fuse box and gave it a "bath" with WD40. The only thing about the wiring was that sometimes I could kind of hear the turbo whistle in the radio when connected to AUX and no input to the radio... Other than that, the engine is running fine with the other ECU.
I think I can find my friend tomorrow and try to copy the eeprom 93c66 from the UCH to a N2 or N3...

**Meat-Head** · 18th July, 2016, 11:19 PM

Yes i niticed the fluke copy bit

randmly dipping to 13

1) crap lucas alternator

2) ecu/glowplug relay kicking in cos its french

3) crap lucas alternator, such a good point had to be mentioned twice

**rideon** · 19th July, 2016, 09:19 PM

Now... You tried to check one "lucas alternator" with "the" Chinese DMM
As far as I am concern might as well blame those crappy leads...

**XG555** · 20th July, 2016, 07:33 PM

Originally Posted by albertros

Hi,
read the eeprom (93c66) in original uch and back it up.
transfer to n1 uch. If car starts the fault is uch. Now find good uch n3 and do same.
Not all n3 are the same congfig i.e. auto lights ect so swap eeprom with your configs loaded. If config wrong for your car you will get odd faults like drivers door not locking.

Thank you do much, I just copied the eeprom from the original UCH-N1 like you said to another UCH-N2 (the original was N2), fitted to the car and everything is working now. I didn't have time to copy another one to test the supposedly faulty ECU as the equipment to copy the eeprom was needed for some other stuff.

As for the alternator, we can hear the engine hesitation so the problem is not with the DMM leads, for sure...

If the ECU turns out to be bad, can we recovery it somehow or should I try to buy another one?