alessioblaupunkt (7th March, 2018)
I sorry,did you confirm throttle position potentiometer,on central body injection?
TB actuactor work with information from this sensor,based on that information and relanti contact on actuator give the correct rpm.
If you have incorrect value the engine rpm could drop.
What scanner did you use?Try another tool to confirm faults.
This is a old injection version,could not adapt tb actuator,when release acelerator (relanti),throttle make contact with tb actuator and give relanti contact ( 0 ohms) and when pressed infinit.The other tb actuator, two connections are from internal motor could measure 5 or more ohms.
If you try with another central body injection,see if is same number,because position potentiometer could have differet values.
alessioblaupunkt (7th March, 2018)
VCDS Lite and VAG-COM 409.1 both give the same code with blue chinese KKL cable.
Throttle position potentiometer: I don't have one specific for ABD engine,
I have two from ABU, and one from an unknown engine.
Next week I will use one of these even if they differ in resistance response in the low, medium and high position.
If problem persist I'll swap the "central body injection" as you said,
because the problem could be in the very thin moving contacts that is part of the throttle body.
Rpm drop solved: throttle valve potentiometer G69, also known as TPS.
No more buzz noise coming from fuel pump as you release throttle pedal,
because now ECU has the correct reading so it can activate throttle valve positioner
at the exact right time.
The other fault is still present:
drive as much as you want, park the car for 40 minutes or 1 hour,
it will not start at first attempt (it cranks with dash light on)
it will start at second attempt.
I'll do another scan the next month.
Meat-Head (4th April, 2018)
Chuck bucket of ice on rpm sensor
Was Banned For Being Certifiably Insane and Stupid
I dont know if this is relevant but, had a 1995 polo 1.4 in a few times but no for his problem. when you got to start, the car would crank but not fire. Take key out, rotate key 180 deg. Put key back in and car would start. Customer knew about it, and was happy to leave it alone. Strange.
^
Maybe immo recognition problem. Not my case.
MY CASE:
Checked fuel pressure several time, I have a tube with a fuel gauge to check pressure, gauge is before the fuel filter,
IT IS NOT IN SERIE with engine fuel rail.
Fuel pressure is 0.8 or 0.9 Bar while engine running, It should be 1.2 Bar but I have 0.8 or 0.9 with a new pump or with an old one.
Fuel pressure is 0.5 Bar when engine is off and the pressure remain for 60 or 90 or even more minutes.
It should be 0.5 Bar so this is ok.
Problem is still here: you left the car sit for 40 minutes or 1 hour it will not start at first attempt.
It will start if you repeat fuel pump prime 3 or more times.
Sometimes it will start at first then die after 1 second, and you have to repeat pump prime.
While repeating prime, the pressure is ok: 0.5 Bar that will increase to 0.9 Bar when pump
is operated by ECU via the relay for 1 second.
It's not an ECU fault.
It's not a fuel pump RELAY fault.
More tests in the next months with another fuel pressure gauge, as this one is a chinese 10 bar fuel pressure gauge and might gave inaccurate readings in the low range.
Last edited by alessioblaupunkt; 10th August, 2018 at 11:33 AM.
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