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  1. #1
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    Question Golf 3 1.4 - rpm drop

    Golf 3 1.4 - rpm drop

    Year 1992, petrol.

    Car has two faults, related or not.

    1) Sometimes no start

    2) Rpm drop occasionaly in this situation:
    a* Shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear, also 3rd to 4th
    b* Entering a roundabout or at the center of the roundabout or in some curve,
    with or without braking


    Parts that has been changed with new spare that don't solve the problem:

    - crank position sensor
    - fuel filter
    - 70° corner pipe in vacuum line


    Parts that has been changed with USED spare that don't solve the problem:

    - idle motor in throttle body
    - idle control valve

    Parts that has been changed months ago:

    - new fuel pump (April 2017)
    - new ignition switch (August 2015)
    - new throttle body gasket (June 2013)
    - new water temperature sensor (April 2015)

    If engine no start there are two rapid solution:
    - keep cranking and press accelerator pedal half way, in a few seconds engine will start, and stay on.
    - key in off position then crank again.


    If engine engine drop rpm while driving:
    - engine will solve the problem in 2 seconds, driver have to do nothing.
    Only one time engine shut off very quitely while downshifting.



    Suspect of internally broken central exhaust silencer that sometimes clog the engine.

    All other driving condition are good: overtake, rapid acceleration, etc.

    Please suggest other thing to do.

  2. #2
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    Default Golf 3 1.4 - rpm drop

    what fault codes?
    What engine type? ABD, AEX, APQ?


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    Default

    ABD.

    Didn't do a scan yet.
    Also a scan in OBD1 car tells very very little.

  4. #4
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    Default

    Can you do throttle body relearn?

  5. #5
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    Default

    TB actuator i guess V70 if remember correctly

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to xoom For This Useful Post:

    alessioblaupunkt (7th January, 2018)

  7. #6
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    Default

    Check for air leaks, replace tb actuator with new one


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    Default

    @autoden
    Can you do throttle body relearn?

    Year 1992, OBD1 vehicle, it has metal cable from pedal to throttle body, so I guess there is no relearn for this.
    If I am wrong about it please tell me.


    @xoom
    TB actuator i guess V70 if remember correctly
    Has been changed but it wasn't faulty.
    In post #1 here it is:
    - idle motor in throttle body

    @ollync
    Check for air leaks

    Forgot to mention in post #1, when there is rpm drop ( usually 1500 to 200 rpm )
    there is a buzz noise coming from the fuel pump I guess, the buzz noise last 2 seconds.

    In the next two weeks I'll wire a voltmeter in fuse box with
    + after fuel pump fuse
    and
    - in the ground point near driver door
    and put the voltmeter near the dash to see if it is the voltage that is missing or the fuel that is missing (maybe for air leaks).

    Fuel pump has been changed in April 2017, new pump.

    ---
    Air leaks chapter:
    apart pulling the throttle body to hear for hissing noise while engine is running,
    can you suggest other things to do to find air leaks?

  9. #8
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    Default

    Throw away oe fuel cap and fit cheapest aftermarket...
    A failure will not appear till a unit has passed final inspection

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    Default

    Spray some brake cleaner around the throttle body with engine running and see if rpm is increasing , check fuel pressure with fuel pressure gauge


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  11. #10
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    Default

    Left the car out for the night on a ramp inclined at 30 degrees, in the morning start ok BUT after 2 seconds engine die.
    Tried to start but sound like no fuel/air leak (ghegheghe_ghegheghe_ghegheghe)
    So I stop cranking.
    I disconnected lambda sensor and water temp sensor.
    Tried to start again with throttle open and after cranking for 20 seconds the engine
    try to start firing 1 then 2 then 3 cyl ok engine start running on 4 cylinder
    but have to rev up to 2000 rpm otherwise it will idle very low.

    2 minutes later I left the foot gradually so the engine stay to idle,
    but one minute later the idle drop from 850 to 600 even 400 rpm
    and it continue to stay on!!!

    Then automatically return to 850 rpm.
    Tried to do a short trip and engine works well even with 2 sensors disconnected.
    I stop the engine and reconnect the sensors.
    Restart after 1 minutes and everything ok.
    Done a trip of 20 minutes/15 kilometers, everything ok.
    I drove back then I wired the voltmeter in parallel to fuel pump.

    Three days later car has been outside for 72 hours in the inclined ramp, start ok,
    drive for 20 minutes/15 kilometers and engine dropped rpm two times
    while downshifting from 4th to 3rd, fuel pump buzz when there is rpm drop.
    Voltage of fuel pump is costant to 13.2 Volt so fuel pump has supply voltage.
    Left the car in park for 90 minutes and as I expected,
    key on, fuel pump DO the prime, you crank and get only crank,
    I stop cranking then key on again then crank and engine start correctly.
    Drove back with engine nearly ok apart two or three rpm drop while donwshifting with buzz noise
    from fuel pump in that particular moment.

    ---rideonseatednexttome
    Throw away oe fuel cap and fit cheapest aftermarket...

    Nice idea.
    I have one original used that I can fit.
    Only one doubt: I am very disrespectfull expecially at the gas station so
    everytime I refill partially I do it with engine running.
    The engine does not change behaviour if I open or close the fuel cap,
    also there is no hissing sound while releasing the cap.

    No one of you have to replicate my action.

    ---olly
    Have to beg downtown for a fuel pressure gauge.
    Last edited by alessioblaupunkt; 13th January, 2018 at 09:32 PM.

  12. #11
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    Default

    I'm sorry to contradict such an international mechanic as rideoff
    but fuel cap is not responsable, because the buzz sound from the fuel pump is still present
    and it happen in some curve or sometime up or downshifting.

    In the next month I'll change fuel pump.
    I have one with 150000 km that has been removed
    but was working and there were no buzz sound while taking
    a roundabout or curve or up/downshifting.

  13. #12
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    Default

    Any updates? Come on , its an old car with mono-point injection, it must not be so hard.


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  14. #13
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    Default

    I have had a few some time back with faulty ignition switch when a non start. Did not have poor idle but we could have 2 faults.

  15. #14
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    Default

    ON TOPIC:-

    1) fuel pump relay dry soldered joint
    2) remove the pipes (leave wires) seal both ends of the EVAP solenoid under the hood

    Was Banned For Being Certifiably Insane and Stupid

  16. #15
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    Default

    (1st scan for this fault) Scanned the car yesterday found:
    00519 - Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor (G71)
    31-10 -- Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent

    Unfortunately in this engine 00519 makes no sense for these reason:
    1) year 1992 engine code ABD doesn't have Pressure Sensor in Intake Manifold
    2) G71 refer to nothing in Elsawin for this engine (no Pressure sensor = no name for non existing part, simple)
    3) Autodata for this engine doesn't have the 00519 code in the list (no Pressure sensor = no fault code, simple)

    Please give me an hint.
    All the stuff to control fuel pressure will arrive in June.

    ollync->Haven't changed fuel pump yet because if you full throttle breafly just after the rpm drop the engine reach 4000 rpm.
    autoden -> Ignition switch is relatively new (2years) and a new one didn't solve the problem.
    Meat-Head -> 1) fuel pump relay has been changed, no cure.
    2) I have clogged EVAP, no cure.

 

 
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