OPEL ISUZU 8971891360 (16267710 / 1.7L EDU) REPAIR SOLUTION

**zeko99** · 19th March, 2011, 12:13 AM

I'm thinking to put the silicone that holds up to 350C ..

Just to connect a condenser coil and the relay because I changed the transistors and voltage regulator, had to cut the gel.

**gregk** · 19th March, 2011, 12:34 AM

Ahh it's to support components in that case you need potting silicone.

**hamza338** · 27th April, 2011, 11:25 AM

Originally Posted by drivergabriel

my dear friend gabriel (oops! your name it's exactly like mine) wtf are youdoing here?!?!? you already know all about car electronic! you are a guru! (you also suspend my acount on carforum.tehas.....)
I HAVE NO PROBLEMS WITH THE REAL MEMBER OF THIS FORUM AND ALSO WITH YOU! i speak about that kind of people ho search on google, find this site, register and after that they have full acces of any information.

I LEARN ALOT OF ,,TIPS'' FROM ANSWERS AND LUCIANICA (especialy lucianica) but : GUYS! YOU HAVE A BIG PROBLEM! WHEN YOU SEE SOMEONE INTRESTEED OF AUTOMOTIVE YOU LIKE IT (and you try to sell your tool,,bmw scaner+kkl...no comment)(i refer to gabi s.) BUT WHEN THIS PERSON IS SMARTLY YOU DON'T LIKE IT! I am wrong?!?
I hear: ,,you already know too much... from today we are not frinds! by!'' (i refer to someonelse).
Anyway if you want war i will give you war. if you want frindship... i am sorry, but you have this occasion! so....

The overall condition of the EDU can be checked very easily and without the need to open the EDU. Pin 4 should be connected to a 12V supply and pin 17 to ground. It's best to avoid using a current-limiting supply; otherwise the EDU may not power up properly. The standby current drawn by the EDU should be about 180mA. If the current is much higher or lower than this, the EDU will need to be opened for inspection to be carried out. If the EDU is working properly, it should be possible to hear a slight buzzing sound, but beware of the high voltages (130V or more) that appear across the two pins connected to the spill valve.

If the EDU is not working properly, open it and inspect the PCB. If necessary, re-solder the three legs of the large capacitor and the four legs of the large inductor. Re-solder any other joints that look bad. Power up the EDU again by connecting pin 4 to a 12V supply and pin 17 to ground. Check for the presence of correct voltages at the four points marked 'A', 'B', 'C' and 'D' in the photos. If the voltages are not as expected, remove the PCB from its housing so that the components mounted on the other side of the PCB can be inspected and tested.

The attached photos show a faulty Isuzu EDU I repaired a few months ago. Previous attempts had been made to repair the PCB, but nobody had bothered to look underneath. A few simple checks revealed that there were severe problems with the EDU. For example, the output from one of the regulators was only 1V instead of 8.6V, which prevented the step-up converter from working properly. It's output was less than 0.1V instead of 130V or more. There was also excessive ripple on the supply lines. I suspected that at least one capacitor was faulty, but I had to remove the PCB to find out what was wrong.

The 8.6V regulator had to be replaced because of an internal short. I used a 7809 as a substitute for the original part. As expected, one tantalum capacitor was faulty. It was replaced with a capacitor marked '106-35k'. The 'SD' n-channel FET had to be replaced because it had a short between two of its terminals. Once the faulty parts had been replaced, the EDU sprung back into life.

and by the way??? why did you don't posted first, if you already know???

PS: I START THE ML!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

HI meat can you please reupload your pic

thanks in advance

**Shmortz** · 20th September, 2011, 10:59 PM

Does anyone know the type of the chips marked on the image?
I have a problem with 2 of these chips in short.

**elchip** · 25th September, 2011, 07:16 PM

Originally Posted by Shmortz

Does anyone know the type of the chips marked on the image?
I have a problem with 2 of these chips in short.

Logic TTL I cant remember ...

**Shmortz** · 5th October, 2011, 08:03 AM

I'll be very grateful if you could tell me what exactly is this IC...

**elchip** · 14th October, 2011, 09:47 AM

Originally Posted by Shmortz

I'll be very grateful if you could tell me what exactly is this IC...

Have a nice work ;-)

Regard's

**bulanbulanov** · 3rd December, 2011, 09:17 AM

Does anyone know exactly what components are in the yellow rectangle in the attached picture, as I understand those in the upper right are TTL but it have strange markings.

**Shmortz** · 5th December, 2011, 10:59 PM

I asked the same question a few posts above then naturally received false answers from elchip, surely know that these are three different chips and certainly not 7408 or 7414. I think the answer lies both in the first and the last line of the mark, for all modules are respectively the first 014 for each one, and 3382, 3384, 3385 for the third line of different chips

**autoelectrics** · 28th December, 2011, 01:08 PM

Hi,

Does anyone knows what components are in the blue rectangle?

Any help would be very appreciated,

Thanks

**florin_leo** · 28th December, 2011, 03:03 PM

They are marked: 2903.Probabil are transistors.FETs I think.

**autoelectrics** · 28th December, 2011, 03:49 PM

Hi,

Thanks for that but I need a bit more info as I need to get some replacements.

Does anyone maybe know a replacement part number?

thank you very much.

**racin-snake** · 28th December, 2011, 03:53 PM

LM2903 datasheet pdf datenblatt - STMicroelectronics - LOW POWER DUAL VOLTAGE COMPARATORS ::: ALLDATASHEET :::

you can also google the number for an alternative type to use

**autoelectrics** · 28th December, 2011, 04:29 PM

Hi racin-snake,

Thanks for your help.

I had a look at that but this components (3 pins) doesn't seems to be a comparator, it looks more like a sort of on/off transistor, anyway I've tried finding a lm2903 with the same package as the one in the board but I haven't been able to, thus have you replaced one of these before?

Once again thank you very much for the help, it is much appreciated,

Thanks

**einet** · 29th December, 2011, 02:12 PM

Hi,
I repair more that 20 ECU from this, the only problem what I found is bad soldering on pins from FET?s and coil pins.
But the most problem what I see is thermal problems on the FET?s! There is a factory fault! The thermal contact from the FET?s is bad! The best is to put it out and put thermal past and give more forces to the screws that hold the FET?s or put something between the FET and the screw to produces better contact..