OPEL ISUZU 8971891360 (16267710 / 1.7L EDU) REPAIR SOLUTION

**autoelectrics** · 31st December, 2011, 01:25 PM

Hi,

Yes, this is not an usual problem, but this is the second EDU I have found with these two components shorted so I was hoping to find some alternative components so I can get them fixed.

If anybody knows, please let me know.

thanks
Daniel

**gerii** · 28th January, 2012, 06:26 PM

The overall condition of the EDU can be checked very easily and without the need to open the EDU. Pin 4 should be connected to a 12V supply and pin 17 to ground. It's best to avoid using a current-limiting supply; otherwise the EDU may not power up properly. The standby current drawn by the EDU should be about 180mA. If the current is much higher or lower than this, the EDU will need to be opened for inspection to be carried out. If the EDU is working properly, it should be possible to hear a slight buzzing sound, but beware of the high voltages (130V or more) that appear across the two pins connected to the spill valve.

If the EDU is not working properly, open it and inspect the PCB. If necessary, re-solder the three legs of the large capacitor and the four legs of the large inductor. Re-solder any other joints that look bad. Power up the EDU again by connecting pin 4 to a 12V supply and pin 17 to ground. Check for the presence of correct voltages at the four points marked 'A', 'B', 'C' and 'D' in the photos. If the voltages are not as expected, remove the PCB from its housing so that the components mounted on the other side of the PCB can be inspected and tested.

The attached photos show a faulty Isuzu EDU I repaired a few months ago. Previous attempts had been made to repair the PCB, but nobody had bothered to look underneath. A few simple checks revealed that there were severe problems with the EDU. For example, the output from one of the regulators was only 1V instead of 8.6V, which prevented the step-up converter from working properly. It's output was less than 0.1V instead of 130V or more. There was also excessive ripple on the supply lines. I suspected that at least one capacitor was faulty, but I had to remove the PCB to find out what was wrong.

The 8.6V regulator had to be replaced because of an internal short. I used a 7809 as a substitute for the original part. As expected, one tantalum capacitor was faulty. It was replaced with a capacitor marked '106-35k'. The 'SD' n-channel FET had to be replaced because it had a short between two of its terminals. Once the faulty parts had been replaced, the EDU sprung back into life.

**gerii** · 28th January, 2012, 06:27 PM

danke.....

**lati** · 31st January, 2012, 11:26 PM

Originally Posted by autoelectrics

Hi,

Does anyone knows what components are in the blue rectangle?

Any help would be very appreciated,

Thanks

Hello
anybody a Solution for this problem
I have also one defect Transistor r292903 but i cant find a replacemend
Best regards

**andreaaa72** · 27th March, 2012, 04:38 PM

Originally Posted by lati

Hello
anybody a Solution for this problem
I have also one defect Transistor r292903 but i cant find a replacemend
Best regards

Is IRFL210

**maglaras** · 11th April, 2012, 03:23 PM

i have problem in this ecu
i make the repair and car start again
but after 4 minete stop again
the fould code is p0251
what i dont make good in the repair
thank you for the help

**maglaras** · 12th April, 2012, 07:20 PM

nothing????????????????????????????

**maglaras** · 22nd April, 2012, 04:24 PM

any help for me problem???????????????

**autoelectrics** · 22nd April, 2012, 04:28 PM

Hi,

Maybe it is not the EDU, have you tried another EDU?

Thanks

**maglaras** · 22nd April, 2012, 06:37 PM

i tray another ecu and all work ok

**autoelectrics** · 22nd April, 2012, 06:43 PM

Ah OK, so what have you repaired on the faulty ECU, did you only resoldered it or have you changed the regulator and caps too?

Thanks.

**maglaras** · 22nd April, 2012, 06:57 PM

i have fould code p0251
i make the repair in the ecu and after 5 minits the car stop

**autoelectrics** · 22nd April, 2012, 07:07 PM

OK, but when you say, "I have done the repair", what repair do you mean? just re-soldering it?

If that's what you mean you may need more than that, probably replace the regulators and capacitors in the inside board.

Thanks

**maglaras** · 22nd April, 2012, 07:21 PM

ichains capitols and transistor smd

**autoelectrics** · 22nd April, 2012, 07:22 PM

Ah OK in that case I don't really know, you would have to work around what stopps functioning once it is not working but that may be quite hard as probably when it cools down it will work back again, sorry I can't be of any other help.

Thanks.