Before I call the AA - Honda Civic 98 ALARM WONT SWITCH OFF

[scooby5555]

THREAD CLOSED ALL SORTED NOW - HAD SOMEONE COME OUT, BIT LIGHT IN THE POCKET NOW BUT LEAST ITS DONE - THANKS TO ALL CONTRIBUTORS AND ESPECIALLY MEAT HEAD FOR HELPING TO SOLVE THE PUZZLE......



Hi peeps,

Standard Honda factory CAT 1 alarm.

Basically the battery went flat and now the alarm keeps going off when triggered and the remote is not responding, the starter wont turn as the im*obiliser/starter cut off is kicking in its like the reciever box wont take a signal.

When I connect the booster the hazzards blink 24 times (is that a diagnostic code)

Valet mode wont work, having looked around fuse box, it looks like its been re-wired at some point.

Checked all fuses and connections, was working fine before car battery went and even then when I used the booster it was fine.

Any ideas to just bypass the starter cut off, it should work with key on and then valet switch pressed but thats not working.

As a last resort I will have to get the AA out, they should be able to disable it with all the stuff they have on their vixen laptops?

Any ideas?

[C64]

Total n00b answer here mate, so ignore me if I'm talking crap, but have you tried inserting the key in the ignition and pressing the buttons on the key fob?

I think that pairs the fob to the immobiliser.

[scooby5555]

Thanks Witchy, yes tried that and all sorts of other pairing combinations, also tried autodata for re-learning but they cant be programmed. I also have a remote signal tester thing and it shows the remote putting out a signal.

[Meat-Head]

personally would try two things.

Oh it's a H+P btw if standard honda, Hamiltion and Pamer

1) Try removing the big bundle of fuses from the 4(?) fuse holder wich are hanging in your face when you remove the lower fuse box cover
TRY STARTING THE CAR


2) If that fails then lift up the drivers seat, unscrew the main control unit, and then use a pair of pliers (unless you have the funky security tool) remove the screws, and slide out the inner core, now if memory is working correctly, the end two (one each end) are the immo circuits, THINK you will see a BLUE loop on 2 wires at one end and a WHITE loop at the other end.

use one of the fuse holders with a 10 amp fuse to join the two white loop together and same if blue, if car starts, then i'm the best!
If it starts, bin the fuses and join these two ciruits with a 2 double ended yellow butt connctectrs

remeber to press the 'REP' button, it's that funky looking scales at the end of each post.

If you shit a brick doing this, then just slide the board out and get the drunk from the Alocholiscs Anopmous to finish the job, and then see if you can get him to join here on DK and hare ALL of his software on his PC

Remember to save the 93c46 eeprom out of the old alarm, as you could always reprogramme it and sell it to an metro driver
(cough cough www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/f114/dead-met-rot-metro-65655/ (http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/f114/dead-met-rot-metro-65655/))

[electromech]

personally would try two things.

Oh it's a H+P btw if standard honda, Hamiltion and Pamer

1) Try removing the big bundle of fuses from the 4(?) fuse holder wich are hanging in your face when you remove the lower fuse box cover
TRY STARTING THE CAR


2) If that fails then lift up the drivers seat, unscrew the main control unit, and then use a pair of pliers (unless you have the funky security tool) remove the screws, and slide out the inner core, now if memory is working correctly, the end two (one each end) are the im*o circuits, THINK you will see a BLUE loop on 2 wires at one end and a WHITE loop at the other end.

use one of the fuse holders with a 10 amp fuse to join the two white loop together and same if blue, if car starts, then i'm the best!
If it starts, bin the fuses and join these two ciruits with a 2 double ended yellow butt connctectrs

remeber to press the 'REP' button, it's that funky looking scales at the end of each post.

If you shit a brick doing this, then just slide the board out and get the drunk from the Alocholiscs Anopmous to finish the job, and then see if you can get him to join here on DK and hare ALL of his software on his PC

Remember to save the 93c46 eeprom out of the old alarm, as you could always reprogramme it and sell it to an metro driver
(cough cough www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/f114/dead-met-rot-metro-65655/ (http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/f114/dead-met-rot-metro-65655/))
Sorry to dwell from the post but this is the first post of Meat Head that I can understand and follow no cryptic riddles just straight forward????????????

[z786]

i think hes in a good mood

[electromech]

i think hes in a good mood
Might be he is getting soft?

[scooby5555]

Meat-Head lol - Excellant will try that tomorow. Already tried removing the fuses hanging. I have disconnected one of the speaker wires in the alarm for now.

Thanks for the direction. much appreciated.

[Meat-Head]

i think hes in a good mood


Might be he is getting soft?

Well ok then bypass it t old fashoned way, starer cut at ignition switch
black/white and fuel pump cut at EFI relay, *THINK* behind glovebox, 'under' the side panel

*THINK* the alarm siren is as a 'compmentary pair' amp in it so that means, you can unsolder the first 2 resistors out the chip, then using a 1k resitor, solder the POSITIVE of one of them talking alarm clocks to the ground rail and the neg of speaker of talking alarm clock to ONE of the resistors, hi ho, instant 120DB alarm clock.


Do you guys think i'm daft or something!

[scooby5555]

Well ok then bypass it t old fashoned way, starer cut at ignition switch
black/white and fuel pump cut at EFI relay, *THINK* behind glovebox, 'under' the side panel

*THINK* the alarm siren is as a 'compmentary pair' amp in it so that means, you can unsolder the first 2 resistors out the chip, then using a 1k resitor, solder the POSITIVE of one of them talking alarm clocks to the ground rail and the neg of speaker of talking alarm clock to ONE of the resistors, hi ho, instant 120DB alarm clock.


Do you guys think i'm daft or something!

Woosh I would need a dummies guide to do that, im a sunday mechanic, I will try the what you initially suggested and then AA if no joy. Thanks again....

[C64]

He did mention the Alcoholics Anonymous though. ;)

He's a good bloke Meat-Head is, he knows his stuff.

[scooby5555]

bloomin heck I can see that, hes like a Mcguyver only real lol

[Meat-Head]

bloomin heck I can see that, hes like a Mcguyver only real lol

WHO? is that

[scooby5555]

MacGyver - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mcguyver)

[Meat-Head]

He did mention the Alcoholics Anonymous though. ;)

He's a good bloke Meat-Head is, he knows his stuff.

Used to be (untill banned) on a local forum "MCMBG" (Meat City Modified Bags of Crap) forum and one day somebody asked for help on something (can't remember what), so posted the correct answer, whatever and could 275,000% prove what i said was correct, some cock-end
thought i was wrong, and they all then beleived him, so that's when i got a little nasty, and then got banned! That i hopefully NOT going to happen here, as it's such a good website.



MacGyver - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mcguyver)

Not intreasted in some 70's ~~~~ star with a swiss army knife, more intreasted in if you got your hog going or not?

[scooby5555]

lol - I see what you mean now...

21:08 - Just called the AA, get my ?150's worth, never use them as most problems I kind of have a go at myself so they aint been called in 3 yrs, said should be with me by 10:50pm with their wonderful vixen laptops.

Suppose I am paying them back for the hired cars they use to provide to me when I was 18, use to have have a knackered honda running on 3 cylinders, but it drove everywhere lol Bit naughty but if I ever wanted a free hire car (at 18 you couldnt even pay to hire them) I would drive 30 miles and the bloke would turn up and tell me the engines gone and I aint going anywhere lol, well then you better provide me with a brand new spanking motor I say...Yes I know it was wrong but I was young lol

Fingers crossed !

[Meat-Head]

think you should print out my first post to this thread, because, it's cold late at night, the bloke, just say "Dunno mate" and tow it to dealer, think you should at least (check first i'm correct) unbolt drivers seat
or at least squirt UB40 on the nuts.

That way, he will feel obliged to stay, make him a cup of tea (not to hot or milky, as he will be wanting to piss 2 mins later)

[scooby5555]

looool You do your avatar so much justice - Good idea, I have printed it out, will just leave it on the seat and prompt him if he starts backing off ! Your spot on, of course tea and talk about Vixen systems. Cheers again, will update, better not turn up at 1am, if he aint here by 11:30 I will cancel and resched.

[Meat-Head]

Just for reference i did a similar 'stunt' a while back, Mini water bypass hose, decided the same as you, 'paid for it, can't be arsed'

Drove 5 miles used phone box (0800 calls cost on mobiles), guy came out
just so happened i 'found' in the boot a new bypass pipe (or was it 1/2 in water hose) in the boot, get on with it, you bastard.

20 mins later, he decided 'nil poi' called a recovery truck was called went from could hve done it in nice warm workshop, but ended up 9pm in cold on mates drive and as tow truck was called that meant 2 'goes' at the 7 'lifes' limit.

The same car bottom rad hose blew off, (don't ask) 10pm, torch light, replacement hose (had unit 2 miles down road) took bucket of water
sure it was 20 mins, and sorted, antifreeze went in next day.

Same car again opened bonnet looked at belt, thought 'oops best change that 2morrow night' just going out MIDDLE OF NO WHERE twang, dynamo (Yeah dynamo) light on, temp gauge runs out of numbers.

Recovery truck turns up 1 1/2 hr later, 'no mate too old, got no parts'
where do you want taking attitude

"Nearest river that way" i said, "oh why's that" he said.
"because out of thin air i'm going to magic a new belt" i said
(we are taking Sunday after noon MIDDLE OF NO WHERE)

so off we go to the river bank, thata way, gets there nothing but a bridge
that's it "Where is this new belt sunshine" he said.

"Just start taking the grill off and undo the dynamo, c**t"

Ran as fast as i could over the bridge, to my unit, on the other side of river, grabbed new belt, in packet, ran back, "Here c**t fit that otherwise you will be wearing it".

As he is fitting the belt (still on tow truck) he asks where i work "Meat-Head-Motors, Meat City" i said, "Oh, what do you do there then"
told him, free puntures, free scratches, rev limiters testing etc.

Funny thing was we got at least 5 jobs out of him over the next year, not seen him for a while now.

[scooby5555]

looooooooooooooooool That cracked me up after spending 1.45 mins in freezing cold with AA man and no start Honda, poor guy he did try his best - Bas^%% serves me right for always singing to everyone for years about how reliable they are and how everyone should buy a Honda for the reliability factor alone, you are truly mad but in a very entertaining way - I think DK should pay you lol....Funny guy...

Anyway - It seems the reciever is not picking up a signal as nothings happening when remote is pressed, we checked for damp in reciever, nothing all seems ok.

Got to the alarm brain and couldnt see the colours mentioned. You were right it was H+P, anyway im in a bit of a situation now, just mot'd and spent shed loads on it. Theres two switches on the mainboard numbered 1 and 2 with an arrow that point to "ON" dont know what they are for? Any ideas...

Which wires do I connect, and is that with the board plugged in? Have taken pics as best as I could and a layout of the system. Sorry if the pictures are a little on the large side.

http://i41.tinypic.com/nzrmf6.jpg



http://i40.tinypic.com/2zsns4o.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/35b6p9w.jpghttp://i43.tinypic.com/5cx3wx.jpghttp://i41.tinypic.com/1040lc2.jpg

[Meat-Head]

Oh, must be an earlier version of the H+P cat 1

can't see no 93c46 eeprom or colored tags, bugger, don't pannick

Can you photograpgh the back side of the board.

switches good question, 99.9% sure you need red master remote to be able to reprogramme keys back in.

Youi could try flick stches down, ign on,and play with the remote

late for wrk, can't 'help' till tonight, upload back view of board anyway.

If you are desprate, give 'bigger me' a nudge during the day, user Cristec
(we seem to be identical to each other!) and see if he can 'draw' on the back side of the circuit board photo the relay pinouts.

Oh just try, ignition on, lick fingers and touch around the board, if it does disarm (clifford c50 would work dong tat) then you could drive it somewhere (Not M-H-M we are flat out today)

[scooby5555]

Thanks, will try that when I get home later today, will have a good play around and post the pic of board.http://i43.tinypic.com/6iffw8.jpg

[Meat-Head]

SORRY TO ADMin for making multi posts on this thread, they can be squashed later.

Sorry to scooby555 for doing stupid rar files

not sussed this image lark out

[Meat-Head]

Another thing to try would be this.

if you could get a good photo of ignition switch wiring
and remove the glove box and pull down the EFI relay
it would properbly be easier to by pass 'the old fashoned way'


GOT to go to KFC now and down load some chips, had bugger all to eat all
day

[scooby5555]

No sweat, grateful for the assistance really....Great I will try that and report back ! Enjoy your meal...

Heres the pics with plug on for both sides..Enjoy your K


http://i41.tinypic.com/jb766s.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/2myu5hv.jpg

[Meat-Head]

Ok last offer, then i'll have to bail out.

Like i said in my first post seem to think the engine run cut is on the end of the wiring plug.

Must have thought, cut end two, push start car and away.

The white relay on the board looks a 'bigger' one this would suggest
the engine run cut

If you ignore the fact that one of the photos is of a landrover discovery
as far as you are concerened it is 'the same' but a better image
as you can see the ignition lock.

1) Where the black/white is cut, join it back up
2) Blob of solder on the circuit board where shown


OPTION (unless you get indicator problems)
3) Find the pure whiltes as they come out the alarm box and cut and
insulate (indicator feeds)


Ignore my last post (hope admin deletes it)

If this don't start now, you will have to remove the glovebox and photo
the EFI relay

How the Main Relay works (http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelayoperation/index.html)

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/MainRelayCoverOff.jpg

[scooby5555]

Thanks M.H for the guidance mate, much appreciated. It looks like its been messed about with before.

I did the earth touchpoint on the board as suggested and it did disarm the door sensors for some reason. Also the valet switch has no power so probably why the overide was not working, tried to trace the wire but theres way too much wiring behind that fuse box, I will probably end up disturbing something else and cause more problems.

I will have a quick go tomorow and then get someone to sort it out, easy job as I have opened everything up anyway. Any volunteers in Leicester? Naturally you will be rewarded lol

Seriously - Thanks for all your help on this one, it was much appreciated..and entertaining at times lol

[Meat-Head]

Thanks M.H for the guidance mate, much appreciated. It looks like its been messed about with before.

. Also the valet switch has no power so probably why the overide was not working,

Leicester?

Seriously - Thanks for all your help on this one, it was much appreciated..and entertaining at times lol


1) "entertaining at times" Oh which bits?
2) Valet on a Cat 1 H + P, Nah
3) If it had switched neg anyway
4) Leicester, Sorry only do stuff in Meat-Headshire
5) Did see the 93C46 EEPROM in your last pic, (under yellow label) just
try, putting fuses back in, battery off, earth pin 1 of the 93C46
to earth, get some unsuspecting plank to put battery on, then whilst you are still earthing eeprom, turn ignition on, relesase the wire
see what damage it causes
6) Got to go to bed now, KNACKERED.

[scooby5555]

Entertaining - All of them, naturally lol

Seriously it had the overide switch but was dead.

You serious about number 5? Sounds like fun if it wont damage anything other then the B^&%^% alarm.

[Meat-Head]

Entertaining - All of them, naturally lol

Seriously it had the overide switch but was dead.

You serious about number 5? Sounds like fun if it wont damage anything other then the B^&%^% alarm.

1) Oh ok
2) Overide?????? Cat 1 (DEALER fir not factory fit btw) Photo it
maybee key on siren, this only disables BBU in siren nothing else
3) Yes seroiusly power down, short out 93c46, you have noting
to loose, it's ~~~~ed already, you have lost time (inc admin reading these posts etc) This works on Rover SCU when some dumb ~~~~
has tried to programme the remote 15 times!


Think you should look at my last 'photos' and do that and ~~~~ it off.

[scooby5555]

Overide - Sorry meant, as in valet mode, turn key to AC ON, im*ob will click off, whilst in AC ON keep hidden valet switch pressed.Off I go to blow the car up, might not be a bad f&t covered anyway lol.

LOL = Tried the 93c but it didnt do jack all...Anyway had enough and im sure so have you, im going to get someone to sort it out...

Thanks for all the tips and tricks..

[fobara]

On some cars it's only takes to lock and unlock doors manualy to deactivate alarm.
Lock the door(driver) with key . take key out , wait 10-20sec. unlock and open door.
Have done this on American cars and Toyta's, may be you'll get lucky.
Just an idea.

[scooby5555]

Tried it thanks mate -Thats it - No more energy for this one so given up.

[Meat-Head]

Tried it thanks mate -Thats it - No more energy for this one so given up.

Just try that blob of solder and/or a paper clip or scotch lock* on the very end two wires
then short the starer with screwdriver and/or



Give it a push start, you know clutch down, second gear, your "mates" pushing it from behind like Sly Stalone in the film Lockup lol



BEFORE you bail out.

* M-H-M does not condone anybody using 'I.D.C.' connectors (Insulation Displacement Connector' or (I Don't Care) connector.