W204 EIS EZS problem ( IR not working)

[Remapking]

Hi guys hope you had a good Xmas

I have a w204 Eis - IR not working coil not energising

remote not working and also ignition won't turn on

i have tested the switch and found it's not reading key via IR

Can somebody please help me fix it ?

thanks and a happy New Year to all

[Andrey Pribalt]

Make a new key and check.

[Remapking]

Can't make a new key without IR working as need it to read password + no problem with his key (I've tested it already)

Looking for a solution to make ir work (Eis coil to energise as it should)

[Andrey Pribalt]

What device do you use to read the lock?

[Remapking]

I use Cgdi Benz

[Remapking]

I just need a solution to repair ir not working from Eis (coil not energising)

[Spiritech]

Check that all the switches internally are working correctly for key presence, terminals etc. I occasionally find these with the key presence switch failed and the EZS never thinks a key is inserted so it never energises the coil to communicate with a key.

[vov4ik]

I just need a solution to repair ir not working from Eis (coil not energising)
I second to the above,
Take the EIS out and hook it up to your tool with adapter cable, go to "status" (I use VVDI MB, did not touch CGDI) and check that when you flip thorough the positions (OFF/ACC/RUN/START) you get proper indication on CAN and Physical... I replaced many microswitches inside those modules. Occasionally there is a break at the root of the coil stand-offs on the PCB which will cause no read as well.

[Remapking]

I second to the above,
Take the EIS out and hook it up to your tool with adapter cable, go to "status" (I use VVDI MB, did not touch CGDI) and check that when you flip thorough the positions (OFF/ACC/RUN/START) you get proper indication on CAN and Physical... I replaced many microswitches inside those modules. Occasionally there is a break at the root of the coil stand-offs on the PCB which will cause no read as well.

Thanks for reply,
I have already checked microswitch status using Eis status function - they all working (no can status obviously)

[Spiritech]

All switches mechanically working? check continuity of the coil, after that IR reciever/sender diodes may be failed. Beyond that the whole EZS is dead, you could try moving the processor to a donor unit but at that point you may be better off just getting some known good EZS data, virginising a donor EZS and re-personalising the ESL & ECU. Or just buy a new EZS brand new with the workshop key and do the job as the dealer does.

[babeh]

If the remote not work (suddenly), cannot lock and unlock doors,
that maybe antenna problem, there is signal amplifier circuit,
or key problem...

If ignition problem, most likely that is ESL problem.

If you use cgmb checked the EIS functions are working,
then maybe something else.
You need diagnosis the car,
is 'engine Start' enabled in ECU ?
is EIS pass the signal to trigger ok to start to ECU ?
if EIS has problem just replace it and program another one.

[vov4ik]

Thanks for reply,
I have already checked microswitch status using Eis status function - they all working (no can status obviously)
If you have no CAN indication at all, not even OFF, might be a shot base system interface IC, look for MC33742 (https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/MC33742.pdf), they tend to fail from CAN spikes... It is easier to swap than the MCU.
P.S. the little switch right next to it is easy to bend/break when you take things apart

[Remapking]

If the remote not work (suddenly), cannot lock and unlock doors,
that maybe antenna problem, there is signal amplifier circuit,
or key problem...

If ignition problem, most likely that is ESL problem.

If you use cgmb checked the EIS functions are working,
then maybe something else.
You need diagnosis the car,
is 'engine Start' enabled in ECU ?
is EIS pass the signal to trigger ok to start to ECU ?
if EIS has problem just replace it and program another one.




the problem is 100% coil not energising and ir is not working in Eis - I have checked everything else

[Remapking]

If you have no CAN indication at all, not even OFF, might be a shot base system interface IC, look for MC33742 (https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/MC33742.pdf), they tend to fail from CAN spikes... It is easier to swap than the MCU.
P.S. the little switch right next to it is easy to bend/break when you take things apart

thanks I will swap with one from a donor switch and let you know

I am able to read the switch OBD but not from IR

[babeh]

thanks I will swap with one from a donor switch and let you know

I am able to read the switch OBD but not from IR

If you've checked everything and sure that the EIS has problem,
just switch the whole EIS then program it, start car, done.


What do you mean IR not working ?
Read through IR in this EIS is not that useful, in cgmb only can read key slots data.
In FOB key, IR just for open/close windows,
Lock unlock door use RF.
So what do you need ??

[Spiritech]

If you've checked everything and sure that the EIS has problem,
just switch the whole EIS then program it, start car, done.


What do you mean IR not working ?
Read through IR in this EIS is not that useful, in cgmb only can read key slots data.
In FOB key, IR just for open/close windows,
Lock unlock door use RF.
So what do you need ??

IR function is required for the key to authorise with the EZS, so if you get no IR function from either end you get no start. Our OP here thinks he can't just replace the EZS because he can't read the key password to sync with the rest of the car. However if he truly cannot recover this EZS to the point of getting a key password and hence the ability to personalise a donor EZS his best plan of action is to get a known good EZS data and virgin and re-personalise the rest of the vehicle. The other option is to buy a dealer EZS with a workshop key and fix the car as the dealer does.

[vov4ik]

...best plan of action is to get a known good EZS data and virgin and re-personalise the rest of the vehicle. The other option is to buy a dealer EZS with a workshop key and fix the car as the dealer does.

Those options imply having DAS... In some cases password can be obtained from the key itself but I guess it is not the one.
Otherwise, why not just fix the module? They are not that complicated and unless the MCU itself is shot it is not a big deal to swap the faulty part or even move the MCU to a known-good board. Can be done within half hour when module is out and on bench. Parts are cheap and easy to source.

Common issues on those are:
- Bad "key in ignition" switch (the white one near the 28 leg chip), easy to check - there will be a small bump in current on the bench power supply when key is inserted if it works properly
- Broken off antenna stand-off or bad solder joint on it (from key wiggling) - try to move antenna stands and watch the backside
- One of the transistors shot (easy to check for shorts with ohm-meter)
- Base system IO IC shot (also controls power states, so if the car is draining power might be the cause) - need a digital scope to check for proper work, but required for switch state indication on CAN

To properly check it on bench it needs to be connected to the steering lock or emulator, otherwise there will be no CAN status indication for ON and START... but Off and ACC is enough in this case

[Spiritech]

Those options imply having DAS... In some cases password can be obtained from the key itself but I guess it is not the one.
Otherwise, why not just fix the module? They are not that complicated and unless the MCU itself is shot it is not a big deal to swap the faulty part or even move the MCU to a known-good board. Can be done within half hour when module is out and on bench. Parts are cheap and easy to source.

Common issues on those are:
- Bad "key in ignition" switch (the white one near the 28 leg chip), easy to check - there will be a small bump in current on the bench power supply when key is inserted if it works properly
- Broken off antenna stand-off or bad solder joint on it (from key wiggling) - try to move antenna stands and watch the backside
- One of the transistors shot (easy to check for shorts with ohm-meter)
- Base system IO IC shot (also controls power states, so if the car is draining power might be the cause) - need a digital scope to check for proper work, but required for switch state indication on CAN

To properly check it on bench it needs to be connected to the steering lock or emulator, otherwise there will be no CAN status indication for ON and START... but Off and ACC is enough in this case

Call me crazy but I don't do component level repair when I have a customer waiting for their car, I just do a changeover and repair the item later. Most customers waiting more than an hour or so for their repair is too much.

[rob h]

A W204 bench setup, best to have a cluster connected on the bench. (this way you can easily see the ign status) Does not need to be the cluster belonging to the car, vin wont match, so km wont synch.



All i encountered could be fixed, by swapping switches, coil etc.
Never had to swapp the hole mcu. But that seems the ultimate way, to fix these.

[Remapking]

Call me crazy but I don't do component level repair when I have a customer waiting for their car, I just do a changeover and repair the item later. Most customers waiting more than an hour or so for their repair is too much.

problem was getting second hand parts during Xmas New Years period - anyway managed to fix the Eis I had by desoldering ir part from another board to original Eis

thanks guys