I need firmware/dump or backup for MEG17.9.12 TC1762 Accent 2012

[tmc]

My ECU unit is damaged, I tried to make a backup using Ktag but I couldn't. I have a spare ECU, but I don't have the firmware. And since I'm going to use someone else's firmware I also need to remove the immobilizer.

Does anyone please have the firmware?

Car details :

Make : Hyundai
Model : Accent
Year : 2012
Gear type: Automatic
Engine type : 1.4L DOHC

[fakturnii]

password in a personal message

[tmc]

password in a personal message

Thank you so much, I really appreciate the help, I don't know how to thank you enough.

Do you happen to have the maps as well? I did write to the ECU through EEPROM only using KTAG, and tried to run the car, but it only cranks. Hmm.. also, I couldn't hear the relay opens up(the hiss you hear when you turn the key one flip). And when I connected the OBD II to diagnose, it didn't connect. So maybe I thought the maps could affect the car? idk

Still, trying to figure out what's the problem

Thanks again.


More info

When I tried to write using KTAG master version as MEG17.9.12 it refused, it says :

"Recognized plugin: 339 - bosch ME17.9.11 IROM TC1762 KIA(P339)
Selected Plugin: 416 - bosch MEG17.9.12 IROM TC1762 KIA(P416)"

So I couldn't write as MEG17.9.12, and I had to write as ME17.9.11. Could that be the problem why my car only cranks?

It seems like my spare ECU has ME17.9.11 plugin? it's strange, I bought the spare ECU with the backside written on it "MEG17.9.12", although I bought it from Chinese aftermarket place. However my original ECU is OEM. Hmm.. I wonder if I can make the spare ECU recognize MEG17.9.12


Picture of backside for spare ECU :

1004844

Picture of backside for original ECU :

1004845

[fuzz1]

Hi
No diagnosis through obd port only for the ECU or for whole car?

[tmc]

Hi
No diagnosis through obd port only for the ECU or for whole car?

I'm using a OBD II tool called ELM 327 (small blue device), and the program is called Car Scanner. When I open the program, there's a button at the bottom labeled "connect" and when I click on it, it gives me this image :

1004955

And as you can see below in the image, it says "ECU connecting..", so it isn't connecting to the ECU.
Strange enough, when I put the old ECU in, and tried to connect, it did connect.

So I tried to measure the voltages on the spare ECU, and it turns out there's no 12V on the main large 2 pins as in picture below :

1004956

The two red arrows is where the 12V voltage should be, instead there's only 1.86 V. Also, the 12V were present in the old ECU.
This is so strange, because those two large pins are connected directly to the car battery(UPDATE, I think I'm wrong, I just made a continuity test between the positive terminal of the car battery, and the large pins shown in the image, and there was no continuity, any idea what's in between? is it the ignition key and immobilizer?). And it's probably why the OBD II cannot read, because there doesn't seem to be power getting there.

Not sure what's the problem yet.

Thanks

[fuzz1]

Try to use a better scan tool and see if the fuse to the obd connection is not blown. Also with the other scan tool you will be able to know if you can read other modules in the car
I would have tried to measure the voltage coming to the ecu pins from the connector to trace back why there is no 12 volt coming through.

[tmc]

Try to use a better scan tool and see if the fuse to the obd connection is not blown. Also with the other scan tool you will be able to know if you can read other modules in the car
I would have tried to measure the voltage coming to the ecu pins from the connector to trace back why there is no 12 volt coming through.

The OBD tool works fine with the original ECU, and the 12V is also present in the old ECU, so I don't think the problem is from the car or the OBD scanner. Could the fault be in the new EEPROM installed in the spare ECU which causes lack of power? I might need to try another firmware

[fakturnii]

if 12 volts does not come to the ECU, then the firmware has nothing to do with it.

[fakturnii]

I also forgot to write that after disabling the immobilizer, you need to turn off the smart.

[tmc]

I also forgot to write that after disabling the immobilizer, you need to turn off the smart.

how to disable the smart? I don't know what that is

[fakturnii]

this is such a block usually located under the steering column

[tmc]

this is such a block usually located under the steering column
Also, is the smart has anything to do with the 12V not going to the spare ECU?

[fakturnii]

No it doesn't

[fuzz1]

Hi
What do you mean by the smart? is it the steering lock?

Find a wiring diagram and trace back to see where the 12 Volt is coming from.

[fakturnii]

This is the immobilizer unit

[tmc]

This is the immobilizer unit
So I need look for something like this under the steering column and remove it

[tmc]

Hi
What do you mean by the smart? is it the steering lock?

Find a wiring diagram and trace back to see where the 12 Volt is coming from.

I'm sure it has to do with the relay unit, after the key is turned, power will pass through the relay and then to the ecu. I might need to check the voltage on the relay. also yeah, I need to find a diagram for accent 2012 1.4 engine, I looked around for the diagram but couldn't find any. if anyone has it, I'd appreciate it

[fakturnii]

That's right, you need to find 12 volts, and I'm talking about smart for reference when you turn off the immobilizer in the smart firmware, you turn it off physically.



•Bosch ME17.9.11(12)

To work, click the IMMO OFF button and select the Flash file you need. In the received file, you need to recalculate the checksum and disable SMART.

this is the instruction from the program.

First you need to find where the 12 volts have gone

[tmc]

That's right, you need to find 12 volts, and I'm talking about smart for reference when you turn off the immobilizer in the smart firmware, you turn it off physically.



•Bosch ME17.9.11(12)

To work, click the IMMO OFF button and select the Flash file you need. In the received file, you need to recalculate the checksum and disable SMART.

this is the instruction from the program.

First you need to find where the 12 volts have gone

Okay, so first thing I did is removing the Immobilizer unit, I found it as you said in the steering column.

Second, I found out the problem why there's no 12V, it's the starter relay. I first removed the relay to test it, and it was working fine. Then, I found out when I put my old ECU in, I hear the relay clicks and it passes the 12V to the ECU, but when I place the new ECU in, the relay doesn't click.

I'm still trying to find out why the starter relay only works with the old ECU, any help would be appreciated.

[tmc]

Updates:

I found out why there's no 12V with the spare ECU, turns out the power management IC has rusty pins, so I just had to solder them with another layer and now the 12V are present. However, unfortunately the car still cranks but it won't start, although I can hear the fuel pump opens up. So I'm still diagnosing what is causing the car not to start.

Also, the car OBD II scanner says there're no fault codes.