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smirnoff_rules
15th July, 2010, 03:04 PM
anyone know wot causes this fault , ie dry joint ? can they be repaired or is it an ecu repair shop the only place that can do it


faults:
“PRNDS” light flashing on dashboard
Gearbox in fail-safe mode
Loss of reverse gear
Complete loss of drive

oldford
15th July, 2010, 03:10 PM
I would start by reading the fault codes witch Vagcom or VCDS.

smirnoff_rules
15th July, 2010, 03:29 PM
cant remember the codes now its been a few weeks but it did say fault on transmission ecu .. looked on the web and its a common fault

nicamarcos
15th July, 2010, 05:45 PM
anyone know wot causes this fault , ie dry joint ? can they be repaired or is it an ecu repair shop the only place that can do it


faults:
?PRNDS? light flashing on dashboard
Gearbox in fail-safe mode
Loss of reverse gear
Complete loss of drive

Problem is 99% Gearbox ecu (Temic), it is fitted into Gearbox, ecu have round connector.

smirnoff_rules
15th July, 2010, 05:56 PM
Problem is 99% Gearbox ecu (Temic), it is fitted into Gearbox, ecu have round connector.

its external m8 ..

Meat-Head
15th July, 2010, 06:06 PM
no idea, but
Bosch 30349 - driver used in car automatic gear ECU (http://www.codecard.lt/electronics/bosch-ic/bosch-30349-driver-used-in-car-automatic-gear-ecu/prod_202.html)

etka
15th July, 2010, 09:06 PM
very common problem and not repairable to the best of my knowledge.I have fitted lots of these for mostly gear selection implausible signals as the gear switch is part of the ecu.
Cost around ?1000 and normally back order status
if you can resolve the gear selector switch then you will fix it.

smirnoff_rules
15th July, 2010, 09:15 PM
very common problem and not repairable to the best of my knowledge.I have fitted lots of these for mostly gear selection implausible signals as the gear switch is part of the ecu.
Cost around ?1000 and normally back order status
if you can resolve the gear selector switch then you will fix it.

fingers crossed this will be a cheaper option Audi A4 A6 Multitronic gearbox transmission ECU (http://www.ecutesting.com/audi_a4_a6_multitronic_gearbox.html)

Meat-Head
15th July, 2010, 09:37 PM
M-H-M deal with these folks.

Be ready for a long weight when you ring up pretty sure it's this
MOBANGO - Download Dial An Asshole Alert Ringtones to your mobile phone - for free - gas,fart,funny,message,sms,alert,humour,Assehole,f - MOBANGO - Free mobile applications, games, themes, ringtones, wallpapers and videos for your mobile phone (http://www.mobango.com/media_details/dial_an_asshole/9m_NaHmLt1o%3D/?pni=24)

Somewhere on teir website (think) is the mobile number for the workshop.

Ring up the mobile, just claim to be from somewhere fictious, victious location, and ask questions, see if you can something out of Roger

If no joy, just ring the number the nextday and book it Danno

smirnoff_rules
15th July, 2010, 09:40 PM
lol l was 3rd in line today then went to 4th lol .. your right there .. is it about 3 days or do they take the piss ?

nicamarcos
16th July, 2010, 02:18 PM
its external m8 ..

What side of it goes external?, did you taked it without flowed gearbox oil? :)
100% ecu is to change it.

nicamarcos
16th July, 2010, 02:41 PM
no idea, but
Bosch 30349 - driver used in car automatic gear ECU (http://www.codecard.lt/electronics/bosch-ic/bosch-30349-driver-used-in-car-automatic-gear-ecu/prod_202.html)

It is for other gearbox ecu brands :), this ecu is totally hibryd ;)

jp_olli
20th July, 2010, 05:32 PM
I have repaired these units.

This is the procedure I have done:

1. Cut open the "cover" of the unit, this is where the type label is printed. Use Dremel etc. and cutting disc, go around 3-5mm off the "edge".

2. When done with cutting, take off the cover. You will see a hybrid board.

3. Use tweezers to locate loose wire connections around the hybrid and the unit frame.

4. Resolder any loose connection with Multicore ALUSOL.

5. Smooth out the cutted edges and MELT the palstic cover back to the frame. Do it properly. Any silicon sealant stuff could dissolve to transmission fuild and lead to problems.

6. Remove any loose plastic away from the unit.

7. Put it back to the transmission and that should be it.

There might be other ways to do this and I?d be glad to hear about improvements to his "guide".

smirnoff_rules
20th July, 2010, 05:48 PM
I have repaired these units.

This is the procedure I have done:

1. Cut open the "cover" of the unit, this is where the type label is printed. Use Dremel etc. and cutting disc, go around 3-5mm off the "edge".

2. When done with cutting, take off the cover. You will see a hybrid board.

3. Use tweezers to locate loose wire connections around the hybrid and the unit frame.

4. Resolder any loose connection with Multicore ALUSOL.

5. Smooth out the cutted edges and MELT the palstic cover back to the frame. Do it properly. Any silicon sealant stuff could dissolve to transmission fuild and lead to problems.

6. Remove any loose plastic away from the unit.

7. Put it back to the transmission and that should be it.

There might be other ways to do this and I?d be glad to hear about improvements to his "guide".

isnt it just bolted on ? didnt think it was by any fluid ?


found this


1. Jack the car up on Axel stands/ramps or if you have access to a pit it will make life a little easier.
2. You need to remove the splash guard underneath the car so you can see the back of the gear box.
3. Drain the gear box of oil which will require a special tool which you ca get for ?10 from draper Draper Expert 1/2 Square Drive Drain Plug Key For Vw Or Audi 63476 Draper Hdpk1.
4. Remove the electronic cable that connects onto the ECU that protrudes out the back of the back of the gear box.
5. The back of the gearbox has 12 torques holding the cover in place. Once you have removed most of them you will need to remove the rear engine mount to get at the last torque bolt at the top of the gear box.Support the gear box with a trolley jack so you can lower the gearbox to get at the last few torques.
6. The rear engine mount can be slid towards the back of the car so you can get at the back of the gear box. There is a couple of other bolts that you will need to remove that hold the ecu cable in place.
7. Once you have all the torques that hold the gearbox in place the cover can be slid off.
8. Once the cover is removed be careful not to bend the metal gasket as it cn be used again as long as its not damaged (Audi would probably change this along with the ECU seal).
9. Once the cover is off you can now see the ECU which is held in place by 3 torques or Star bolts.
10. After the 3 torques have been removed you can then slide the ECU off but be careful not to bend or tilt it as you remove it from the gearbox as it has guide rails made of plastic which can break easily.

jp_olli
20th July, 2010, 07:38 PM
Well the only sure thing is that it is better to melt the cover back on. =)

Some units are inside the gearbox.

nicamarcos
21st July, 2010, 02:40 PM
Some units are inside the gearbox.
If you mean multitronic ecus, every flowed in gearbox oil.

jp_olli
25th July, 2010, 10:54 PM
Yes, that is what I mean. :)

Alan789
10th August, 2010, 11:57 AM
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the Audi A6 multitronic system? I'd like o check as much of the electrics as I can before removing the ECU.

Alan

jp_olli
10th August, 2010, 08:53 PM
Haynes repair maual?

foxtec800
11th August, 2010, 07:11 AM
mos of these ecu`s are internal bathed in gearbox fluid,
ACtronics - Electronic Automotive Components (http://www.actronics.co.uk/)
these guys are great for these units very profeesional, and they answer the phone,we`ve sent several and had no issues with repairs.biggest problem cvt fluid, liquid gold from dealer, level must be checked with engine running,not enough fluid cause clutches to burn out,
after changing/repairing ecu clutch point adaption must be done with vas/vcds etc.
6-Speed Automatic Transmission (01J/Multitronic) - Ross-Tech Wiki (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/6-Speed_Automatic_Transmission_(01J/Multitronic)#Special_Procedures)

Alan789
11th August, 2010, 10:06 AM
I've know that the gear position detector switch is a separate external switch on some gearboxes and part of the ECU on others.

I have the Audi Elsawin manuals, but they don't have the wiring diagram of the auto transmittion for my 2003 A6. Does the A6 Haynes manual have the diagram?

I'm an electronic engineer, so have loads of experience fixing things, but would appreciate advice on where to cut open the ECU and seal it again, and anyone's experience of actually doing this repair. Any pictures or other info appreciated. What are the usual faulty parts in the ECU, and the likelihood of it being repairable?

The problem with my A6 ECU is that the diagnostics don't see the D switch being made, although other switches work ok.

If I can get the confidence to do this repair myself I'll post the photos when I do the job.

jp_olli
15th August, 2010, 09:34 PM
I've know that the gear position detector switch is a separate external switch on some gearboxes and part of the ECU on others.

I have the Audi Elsawin manuals, but they don't have the wiring diagram of the auto transmittion for my 2003 A6. Does the A6 Haynes manual have the diagram?

I'm an electronic engineer, so have loads of experience fixing things, but would appreciate advice on where to cut open the ECU and seal it again, and anyone's experience of actually doing this repair. Any pictures or other info appreciated. What are the usual faulty parts in the ECU, and the likelihood of it being repairable?

The problem with my A6 ECU is that the diagnostics don't see the D switch being made, although other switches work ok.

If I can get the confidence to do this repair myself I'll post the photos when I do the job.

Read my instructions on page 1.

I?ve repaired a few myself.

Faults vary a bit, but it is the aluminium wires that loose connection to the connector "frame". Use Tweesers to find the loose wires and repair them.

Xaver
25th August, 2010, 02:09 PM
Hi smirnov_rules,

were you able to fix the error by exchanging or reparing the ECU of the gearbox?
Xaver

jp_olli
27th September, 2010, 05:42 PM
Today repaired one more. :)

Meat-Head
27th September, 2010, 06:12 PM
Today repaired one more. :)

Was this type?

Audi A4 A6 Multitronic gearbox transmission ECU (http://www.ecutesting.com/audi_a4_a6_multitronic_gearbox.html)

Or this type?

VW and Audi DSG Gearbox ECU (http://www.ecutesting.com/vw_and_audi_dsg_gearbox_ecu.html)

We had one in last week, the customer was a "J****** B****Y"
So we simply, RAMMED a wire in the inhibter relay, put two wires in the glove box, so he shorted them together when it won't start - no hot start.

smirnoff_rules
27th September, 2010, 06:20 PM
Hi smirnov_rules,

were you able to fix the error by exchanging or reparing the ECU of the gearbox?
Xaver

no m8 , l see the guy every week and every weeks he says can l bring it in next week ..havnt seen it yet ..


its this ecu tho . l didint think it was inside the gearbox . was hoping not to drain fluid out ?

Audi A4 A6 Multitronic gearbox transmission ECU (http://www.ecutesting.com/audi_a4_a6_multitronic_gearbox.html)

Meat-Head
27th September, 2010, 07:59 PM
its this ecu tho . l didint think it was inside the gearbox . was hoping not to drain fluid out ?

There is an UNCONFIRMED rumor going around, that says if you call this mentioned company, they can e-mail you some wicked detailed information.

The rumor also states it is specail gearbox fluid and you need a vag refilling tool. Suspect 3 meters of poundland hose pipe and a watering can will do - flick out the mud and snails first.

So what prob is you man having, JB it no crank when hot, no idea if it was a 'good' fix or not - told him it needs fixing.

just remembered 2 to choose from 100 quid price differance

aspy39
28th September, 2010, 07:09 PM
The reason you need the vag tool to refill the gear box is the filling hole is in the bottom of the gearbox and the tool screws in and uses gravity to force the oil in, the oil is nice and cheap from vag only around the ?100 mark plus labour not bad every 40k miles

smirnoff_rules
28th September, 2010, 07:18 PM
sounds like l might give this job a miss lol

Meat-Head
28th September, 2010, 07:23 PM
sounds like l might give this job a miss lol

Meat-Head-Motors would have been happy to do the job, just the refilling
bit, seems doubious.

See what they say about e-mailing info, only a phone call away and 10 mins on hold lol.

got to go the old farts next door need my body - bastards - 2 mins to do the job 30 mins to get out the house.

jp_olli
29th September, 2010, 05:55 AM
The unit is this one: Audi A4 A6 Multitronic gearbox transmission ECU (http://www.ecutesting.com/audi_a4_a6_multitronic_gearbox.html)
I can ask from the repair shops how they do the removal and installation.

I thought I?d post some pics next week when I get one more unit to repair.

jp_olli
7th October, 2010, 03:34 PM
Here are some pics.

This unit is also from a multitronic gearbox, there has been two kind of tcm?s what have been used. The connector is different shape and the main cover.

The same working methods suit also for the version with the round connector.

jrb1449
8th December, 2010, 06:38 AM
Hi Guys!! I recently bought a 2002 Audi A4 1.8t FWD and am expeincing issues with what I believe to be the TCM. When in drive and taking off from a stop I have to rev up to 1500-2000 rpms and then it is like dumping a clutch and the car will start moving. All of the gears seem to be working fine. The PRND is flashing on the gauge cluster and reverse only works sometimes. Also the code i am getting is P0706.

I contacted the dealer and the told me a replacement TCM would be $2K and a new transmission is $5700!!!

From what I understand my TCM is located inside the transmission.

Are the instructions posted in this thread applicable to my 02 Audi A4 with the CVT tiptronic transmission?

I am pretty tech savy and worked on all of my own vehicles for years. I would like to take the TCM repair it if possible and re-install it!!

THANK YOU SO MUCH IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR HELP!!!!

josh

juniormaxxx
10th December, 2010, 09:47 AM
you mut understand that once you've started there is no turning back except new unit......

shanektm450
12th December, 2010, 08:59 PM
Hi Guys I had worked on a A6 2001 model and the tcm is located underneath the driverside carpet, they seem to get water in them cause off the bonnet cable grommet seems to leak and the water dams up under carpet and play havoc with tcm. Also if your PRNDS light stay on check the cable that runs into gearbox found corrotion in plug and check cont. between points ,finaly if you have checked and all is fine then your selector switch on side off gearbox has a bad contact switch ,open up unit check cont. and clean with contact cleaner .These points saved my clients alot of money seeing the agent TECHS can only replace parts and charge you for work done and vechile still not right!!!

PS!! What is the use off a machanic if he/she cant do basic fault finding?????

futaris
13th December, 2010, 06:22 AM
Thanks for this. I have seen several units with similar issues...

jrb1449
13th December, 2010, 06:29 AM
Does anyone have step by step pics of the actual unit while being cut apart.and repaired? I think I am going to tear into this thing but I would like to be as prepared as possible!

Is Multicore Alusol a special kind of solder? I googled it and couldnt really find much on it. Does it need to be lead free? Like aluminum or something?

How are you melting the unit back together? What is used to melt it?

Thanks again for all of your help!

futaris
13th December, 2010, 07:41 AM
Multicore ALUSOL (http://www.multicoreaustralia.com.au/index.html?lang=en-us&target=d13.html&lmd=38905.645023)


Alu-Sol 45D is only one of a complete patented range of tin/lead/silver alloys of a special grade.


Easier and more reliable soldering of aluminium and aluminium alloys
Greatly improved resistance to electrolytic corrosion
Excellent flow on aluminium, most aluminium alloys and other metals. Good penetration
Contains 4 cores of unique flux (no separate flux required)
Compatible with standard solders
Solders virtually all other metals including stainless steel



Alu-Sol? Flux - Tin/Lead: Designed for soldering aluminium alloys & stainless steel


http://www.multicoreaustralia.com.au/contents/media/Alu-Sol.bmp

futaris
13th December, 2010, 07:47 AM
As I posted above, ALUSOL has some silver in it. It's not like your standard 60/40 or 63/37 solder. Seems to be a tin/lead/silver alloy.

Have a look at the pictures jp_olli posted. In 10.jpg he seems to be using a cheap soldering iron.

jp_olli, what silicon gel are you putting back on in 7.jpg? It looks like hot-glue. :dontknow:

futaris
13th December, 2010, 09:15 PM
Would applying silastic to the cover after melting the plastic lid back on be a good idea?

They do that when they repair power transistor units on Nissan 300ZX's, see here (http://tech.aus300zx.com/pturepair/pturepair.htm).

Chaser
14th December, 2010, 01:15 PM
Hmm this might be the issue 'm having with a customer car atm. It seems to try and select 4th from 3rd and can't, so it throws a code and locks the trans in 3rd. If I clear the fault whilst driving it is good again for a little while, likewise If I stop the car and restart it the fault is gone for a while too.
Does this sound like the ECU or is it more likely due to a failing clutch ?





Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 09L-927-760.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 8E1 910 156 K HW: 09L 927 156 B
Component and/or Version: AG6 09L 2.0TFSI RdW 0030
Software Coding: 0000001
Work Shop Code: WSC 06335 000 00000
VCID: 2F66EB25C76F
1 Fault Found:

001923 - Shift Monitoring: 3-4 Shift
P0783 - 000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01110000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 51861 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 3648 /min
RPM: 3520 /min
RPM: 1920 /min
(no units): 42.0
(no units): 41.0
Temperature: 63.0?C
T.B. Angle: 17.6?


Cheers Guys :burnout:

jp_olli
17th December, 2010, 09:54 AM
As I posted above, ALUSOL has some silver in it. It's not like your standard 60/40 or 63/37 solder. Seems to be a tin/lead/silver alloy.

Have a look at the pictures jp_olli posted. In 10.jpg he seems to be using a cheap soldering iron.

jp_olli, what silicon gel are you putting back on in 7.jpg? It looks like hot-glue. :dontknow:

In picture 10. there is Weller WSM-1C, the tips only cost over 30? a piece... It is a professional soldering iron. The tip has been worn out, but it?s still good for melting plastic.

It?s common silicon grease in picture 7.

And do not use silastic... read the beginning of this thread again. Do not make any shortcuts, do it well or not at all.

futaris
18th December, 2010, 06:48 AM
Thanks for the reply, jp_olli. A decent temperature controlled iron should be sufficient.

The Weller WSM-1C looks good, especially as you can get a lithium-ion battery for it.

Does anyone have an idea of what sort of plastic is being used for this casing? Or at the very least, what is the melting point of the plastic?

jp_olli
19th December, 2010, 09:46 PM
Thanks for the reply, jp_olli. A decent temperature controlled iron should be sufficient.

The Weller WSM-1C looks good, especially as you can get a lithium-ion battery for it.

Does anyone have an idea of what sort of plastic is being used for this casing? Or at the very least, what is the melting point of the plastic?

It?s good, the battery is built in. :)

For melting I?ve used 400 degrees, no extra plastic is needed.

swage
21st June, 2011, 02:44 AM
Can someone send me the following file from the post above?
http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/images/styles/digital/attach/rar.gif Multitronic.rar (http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/attachments/f175/34240d1286461964-audi-a4-a6-multitronic-gearbox-transmission-ecu-prnds-light-fault-multitronic.rar) (10.59 MB, 574 views)
Please send to swage_mar@hotmail.com

Thanks

kasim_izmir
5th September, 2011, 12:02 PM
[quote=jp_olli;796833]Here are some pics.

This unit is also from a multitronic gearbox, there has been two kind of tcm?s what have been used. The connector is different shape and the main cover.

The same working methods suit also for the version with the round connector.

JIMMYQ
14th November, 2011, 04:04 PM
hi guys just been looking through the pics etc seems easy enough but what are you using to remove the existing silicone inside it ? ive tried heating iit etc its a nightmare to remove ??

vanos batam
15th November, 2011, 09:47 AM
anyone know wot causes this fault , ie dry joint ? can they be repaired or is it an ecu repair shop the only place that can do it


faults:
?PRNDS? light flashing on dashboard
Gearbox in fail-safe mode
Loss of reverse gear
Complete loss of drive

pls,
i need actual part of the picture. fault is ?PRNDS? light console

jp_olli
18th November, 2011, 12:20 PM
hi guys just been looking through the pics etc seems easy enough but what are you using to remove the existing silicone inside it ? ive tried heating iit etc its a nightmare to remove ??

Scrape off only what you can to solder the new wires in place to the frame and then solder the new and old wires together.

EDIT: You still have to use AluSol to solder the old and new wires together.

It?s quite easy with tweezers.

There is an improvement to the frame connection soldering. If there is no gold plated pads but aluminium coating, scrape the coating off so you get copper surface to solder on with normal solder. The soldering quality is better and reduces warranty repairs.

Remember the following:

Your scraping tool must be sharp (sharpened screwdriver etc.) Scrape towards the frame, not the pcb-area.
NO DREMEL etc. Not so funny things happen when the sticky gel gets around the bit.

Seal the lid assisting with a hot air soldering station. You get better durability, when resealing the unit. You don?t need to use Dremel after to smoothen the melted area. When the palstic melts properly no bits will come off and you lose minimum material.

That?s the most recent upgrades.

2.4jtd
28th December, 2011, 01:44 AM
oh my god!!!! ive been looking for this info for agies, i was tempted to have a go my self, but didnt know what the actual problem may have been inside the ecu, but if it is just loose connection wires then im going to save my ?185 and get it done my self

will post pics and reply how it went afterwards, just hope it goes smoothly otherwise im not going to be too impressed with jp_olli :(

alaidc
7th January, 2012, 08:59 AM
How difficult is this job on a scale 0 to 10?
?

jp_olli
7th January, 2012, 11:12 AM
2.4jtd - The instructions are good. My repairs have worked very well. There is nothing to be impressed about a normal job for me. Truth is that if you can?t get it done right it?s because of your skills and equipment.

alaidc - This is a 10 newbie in car electronis repair. For a pro... it depends. If you have done similar repairs it?s easier. For me this is a routine job. So go figure... :D

It?s the sealing the unit that has to be done properly, read this thread again with the attachments, and think the procedure all way through before the repair. Imagine everything in your head, how it?s done.

Prepare properly and you?ll have succes. :)

If there is any questions you can try Skype me. User id is jp_olli. :)

teerak2uk
7th January, 2012, 11:20 AM
Hi Guys I had worked on a A6 2001 model and the tcm is located underneath the driverside carpet, they seem to get water in them cause off the bonnet cable grommet seems to leak and the water dams up under carpet and play havoc with tcm. Also if your PRNDS light stay on check the cable that runs into gearbox found corrotion in plug and check cont. between points ,finaly if you have checked and all is fine then your selector switch on side off gearbox has a bad contact switch ,open up unit check cont. and clean with contact cleaner .These points saved my clients alot of money seeing the agent TECHS can only replace parts and charge you for work done and vechile still not right!!!

PS!! What is the use off a machanic if he/she cant do basic fault finding?????

The water comes in from around pollen filter housing
there is a modded seal available for this

Anmed
8th January, 2012, 06:36 AM
That's what I'm doing. But sometimes the problem is back - break off the wires in other places. It may be necessary to change all the wires at once?

jp_olli
11th January, 2012, 10:30 AM
Modified your picture.

Remember to do "the tweezer test", by pulling the wires with moderate force so those wires wich are going to break in the future will fail this test. -> improved repair quality.

Hope this helps. =)

emmett-yoda
11th January, 2012, 05:51 PM
Nice pictures, lots of help

ghostridersa
15th January, 2012, 04:59 PM
Good day DK members.

I have an Audi S4 in my workshop at the moment with the PRND light flashing and have taken out and opened the gearbox ECU and found one broken off wire as has been shown in the pics by JP_Olli above and I am ready to re-solder the wire with alusol but I cant seem to get the silicon grease to stay away from the contact surface long enough to solder the wire. Can anyone tell me how you remove or keep the silicon grease away from the soldering points while you repair it?

Many thanks in advance.

jp_olli
17th January, 2012, 10:54 AM
It is not just one wire issue... Take a new look at the picture above and read the markings.

The silicone gets removed with "L-shape" tweezers. The rest is using your imagination. :)

Flood warning...

When we do these repairs and develop methods to repair units we use our head.

Here we have topics sometimes with full instructions and lots of discussion and improvements written then it?s time to do something, like read, think and do your homework.

I understand that it?s not easy, but that?s how most of us do. I mean we spend sometimes countless amount of hours to get something done and then publish it here.

And the silicone issue has already been discussed here as you might notice when you read the topic from the start...

Ok, now I will shut up :D

ghostridersa
5th February, 2012, 10:39 PM
It is not just one wire issue... Take a new look at the picture above and read the markings.

The silicone gets removed with "L-shape" tweezers. The rest is using your imagination. :)

Flood warning...

When we do these repairs and develop methods to repair units we use our head.

Here we have topics sometimes with full instructions and lots of discussion and improvements written then it?s time to do something, like read, think and do your homework.

I understand that it?s not easy, but that?s how most of us do. I mean we spend sometimes countless amount of hours to get something done and then publish it here.

And the silicone issue has already been discussed here as you might notice when you read the topic from the start...

Ok, now I will shut up :D

Hi JP_olli

Thank you very much for the valuable information and help you have so willing supplied in this post. Because the info you gave I have been able to repair four TCM units so far.

Only problem I have is that two of the units came back with the same wires broken off again.

I have used Alusol to solder them the first time and my soldering iron temp was set at 320 degrees and I had great difficulty soldering the wires on as the alusol just doesnt seem to want to take corectly. Do I need to use any type of Flux with the alusol or do I need to turn up the temp on my soldering iron?

Thank you for all your help.

jp_olli
9th February, 2012, 10:48 AM
Next time I get one in my hands I will take a picture how to "peel" off the aluminium coating and how to make it last. :)

sompoch
22nd March, 2012, 08:18 AM
I'm trying to open pictures.

jp_olli
22nd March, 2012, 02:21 PM
Scrape off only what you can to solder the new wires in place to the frame and then solder the new and old wires together.

EDIT: You still have to use AluSol to solder the old and new wires together.

It?s quite easy with tweezers.

There is an improvement to the frame connection soldering. If there is no gold plated pads but aluminium coating, scrape the coating off so you get copper surface to solder on with normal solder. The soldering quality is better and reduces warranty repairs.

Remember the following:

Your scraping tool must be sharp (sharpened screwdriver etc.) Scrape towards the frame, not the pcb-area.
NO DREMEL etc. Not so funny things happen when the sticky gel gets around the bit.

Seal the lid assisting with a hot air soldering station. You get better durability, when resealing the unit. You don?t need to use Dremel after to smoothen the melted area. When the palstic melts properly no bits will come off and you lose minimum material.

That?s the most recent upgrades.

Here is some video and pics.

https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=5548e6680e78b98b&resid=5548E6680E78B98B!124&parid=5548E6680E78B98B!107&authkey=!ALg1BVEgJvxFg5c

ghostridersa
28th March, 2012, 08:39 PM
Here is some video and pics.

https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=5548e6680e78b98b&resid=5548E6680E78B98B!124&parid=5548E6680E78B98B!107&authkey=!ALg1BVEgJvxFg5c (https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=5548e6680e78b98b&resid=5548E6680E78B98B%21124&parid=5548E6680E78B98B%21107&authkey=%21ALg1BVEgJvxFg5c)

Thank you very very much JP_Olli for taking the time out to share your knowledge with all of us. Its people like you who make this a great forum to be one. Once again thank you my friend.

lagas
28th March, 2012, 08:57 PM
hello guy's, i have one question.

Can we use second hand unit in other gerbox?

ghostridersa
28th March, 2012, 09:15 PM
hello guy's, i have one question.

Can we use second hand unit in other gerbox?

No you cant use a 2nd hand unit as each tcm is programmed to VIN of the vehicle. So unless you can find a way to do a full bdm read of your tcm and a way to programm your vehicle info over to the 2nd hand unit you cant use any other tcm. Unless someone has figured out how to do it and tell us all.

lagas
28th March, 2012, 09:25 PM
oh ;) i have one tcm unit after change new one. Need time to try ;)

audi2012
16th May, 2012, 11:44 PM
I bought used audi A4 1.8 T cvt 2003 with 71000 miles, i drove it for 30 miles without any issues, tried to start car and PRND stared flashing. i changed the oil and spark plug, now the PRND is flashing intermittently. I dont see any issue with driving, cars goes above 40 mph with rpm being below 2000. I took the car for inspection to independent auto work shop he is quoting 2900 for replacing TCM and flushing transmission oil for fixing P0706 code, is this right quote for replacing TCM? I took the car out of this shop drove for 17 miles now check engine light and PRND are not flashing, could this be some issue with wiring? or with transmission oil?
I am observing that PRND only flashes when i drive car come to standstill, and then shift the lever from D to P. and then when i try to start the car the PRND continue to flash, and then after few miles of drive flashing of PRND stops when the lever is in D
please help me with your valuable suggestion

ghostridersa
16th May, 2012, 11:50 PM
Audi2012: You need to have your TCM repaired. You dont need to replace it. Also the members ok DK would offer you more help if you introduced yourself before asking for help from them in your very first post on DK.

audi2012
17th May, 2012, 12:49 AM
Thanks for the info, I am from USA California Bay Area, is there anyone from Sunnyvale Santa Clara who can repair the TCM, instructions given on this post are really great, as I dont have right tools i would not try it myself.

the funny thing with my car is the PRND flashes is intermittent the car is not in limp mode i dont see any issues with driving except on first occasion when car could not start but there after its running smooth.

jp_olli
17th May, 2012, 10:17 AM
P0706 is transmission range sensor fault and the fault is in the TCM. The fault is temperature related because there are broken wire bonds inside the TCM.

I could fix the unit but would need it to be shipped to Finland. :D

Unfortunately I don't have much time to use Skype, but I'LL try.

Hopefully there is some kind of solution to get your unit repaired.

blacklisted
17th May, 2012, 04:20 PM
jus got to say Jp_olli your a gem m8

ghostridersa
17th May, 2012, 04:20 PM
P0706 is transmission range sensor fault and the fault is in the TCM. The fault is temperature related because there are broken wire bonds inside the TCM.

I could fix the unit but would need it to be shipped to Finland. :D

Unfortunately I don't have much time to use Skype, but I'LL try.

Hopefully there is some kind of solution to get your unit repaired.

@audi2012: Take the advice from JP_OLLI, he is the master when it comes to these TCM problems and from him you will learn a lot. He showed me how to repair these units and it is priceless information. Thanks again JP_OLLI.:top:

audi2012
17th May, 2012, 05:59 PM
P0706 is transmission range sensor fault and the fault is in the TCM. The fault is temperature related because there are broken wire bonds inside the TCM.

I could fix the unit but would need it to be shipped to Finland. :D

Unfortunately I don't have much time to use Skype, but I'LL try.

Hopefully there is some kind of solution to get your unit repaired.

Thank you jp_olli and ghostridersa, is there any instructions or pic on how to take out the TCM from transmission unit? mine is 2003 Audi A4. could you please post some pictures

ghostridersa
17th May, 2012, 06:06 PM
All the info and photos are here on DK posted by Jp_olli. All you have to do is read all posts made by jp_olli and he has given all the repair info needed. If you can DHL the TCM to south africa I can repair it for you or you can ask Jp_olli who is in Finland.

jp_olli
18th May, 2012, 09:08 AM
Maybe I could take pictures next time during the dissassembly.

Basically you have to remove the rear cover from the transmission. Then take the tcm apart fom the "valve plate". If I remember correctly in A6 you have to remove the exhaust pipe and a supporting bracket.

When taking the rear cover off there comes out about 3-5 litres oil. New oil has to be the right type for this transmission.

I'LL try to make new video about closing the unit to complete the instructions.

audi2012
18th May, 2012, 07:53 PM
Maybe I could take pictures next time during the dissassembly.

Basically you have to remove the rear cover from the transmission. Then take the tcm apart fom the "valve plate". If I remember correctly in A6 you have to remove the exhaust pipe and a supporting bracket.

When taking the rear cover off there comes out about 3-5 litres oil. New oil has to be the right type for this transmission.

I'LL try to make new video about closing the unit to complete the instructions.

Thanks you jp_olli, another observation, when the car is cold started with PRND flashing and i put the gear in D the Flashing stops and shows the correct gear 'D', car goes above 50 mph shift is also very smooth,no imp mode, but when i Park the car and shift the gear from D to P display is inverted and then when i turn of the ignition to run mode PRND starts flashing again, if i allow the engine to cool down and then start the car again same scenario is observed.

apart from PRND flahing the car is running smooth it goes above 40-50 mph without any issues. irrespective of if PRND is flahing or not

ghostridersa
18th May, 2012, 08:37 PM
@ audi2012: Please just take the advice of JP_OLLI and myself when we tell you that your problem is 100% in yout TCM. We fix these units for a living so know all the symtoms. The removal from the gearbox of the TCM takes around 35 minutes and the repair of the TCM can take you hours, many many hours. But rather take your time and do the job right because one mistake and the TCM will be worthless. Good luck and ask questions if you need to.

jaybee86
17th July, 2012, 11:20 AM
GREAT information!!

luisrivera
11th August, 2012, 11:05 AM
Cant belive this problem its hunting people for so long... Im afraid i am one.

luisrivera
11th August, 2012, 11:44 AM
@ audi2012: Please just take the advice of JP_OLLI and myself when we tell you that your problem is 100% in yout TCM. We fix these units for a living so know all the symtoms. The removal from the gearbox of the TCM takes around 35 minutes and the repair of the TCM can take you hours, many many hours. But rather take your time and do the job right because one mistake and the TCM will be worthless. Good luck and ask questions if you need to.

Hi ghostridersa and jp_olli
Im from dominican republic. First of all my english probably sucks so hope you dont get crazyor mad.

I readed almost the full thread and a lot of pages more about this problem, but im really confuse cause seems like my car is having diferent symptoms. I noticed everyone else has problems with reverse not working or something named "limpmode aka= safemode" but mine does something diferent.

Lets say i start the car at morning to go work and while driving at some radom moment (i think is when the trany its warm because usually happends after long rides or constant acceleration) the gears go down like crazy. I had a manual car in the past and the feeling is very close to when your driving in 4rth or 5th gear and you change to 1rst while still at high speed. And im pretty sure its like the tcm gets crazy and trys to begin from gear 1 again. Dont know if you understand guys.. I mean its like a kick. And if i dont change really fast to neutral or try to stop the car it keeps going crazy with the "gears" (im using quotes on gear because i understand cvt is infinite gears) then the lights of dead shows up (PRNDS). Sometimes if it was really hard it will not even go change gears till i let it cold down for 2 or 3 hours.

Do you think im still in the same zone of you guys or should i be looking for something deeper like the transmition itself?

Thanks for all boys. This is the first really helpfull thread i found... Most of the others just keep saying (sell the car.... Theres no fix... Cvt sucks.... Blah blah blah)

jp_olli
13th August, 2012, 06:19 AM
First of all you need to get your faulcodes read from your TCM. Then we can give you better help. :)

Most common faults are:

Fault code from component F 125, G 195, G 196, G 182
Fault code from solenoid N88, N216, N215

If you have any of these codes, your TCM is broken.

bgood
14th August, 2012, 01:29 PM
Wow this site took some searching , I was in the middle of a TCM repair and was chatting to a guy on garageforum.com.uk when the site went offline and has been for three months. So the car is standing jacked up in the garage with the TCM lying on the work bench since then.

The TCM would work fine for about 20 to 30 mins untill gearbox warmed up and then prnd would just dissaper,scan and no comms with abs and ecu fault would come up.No fault in tcm would be stored.Let car stand for quite some time and all would come back on again.

I want to open the TCM but as this is not a direct fault but intemittent I am hoping I may see a visible fault, I just did'nt want to cut the unit open without proper guidence thanxs to your post i am hoping to start on it, chat soon Brad

bgood
14th August, 2012, 02:22 PM
Am I not able to remove the holding pins and open the unit up completly ??? I would like to know this as I may have to send it out for recon (repair) exchange and dont want to damage the cover. I was thinking I can remove the pins without damaging anything but spliting the cover off afterwards may pose some challenges, not sur if there is electrics and connectors that will get damaged, Brad

jp_olli
14th August, 2012, 03:34 PM
First you forgot to introduce yourself. ;) http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/f2/welcome-kaos-1/


The cover has to be cut open and then melted back together properly after repair.

Wich tester are you using?

If you choose to repair the unit, read this thread through with time, then you learn how to do it.

luisrivera
17th August, 2012, 05:55 AM
First of all you need to get your faulcodes read from your TCM. Then we can give you better help. :)

Most common faults are:

Fault code from component F 125, G 195, G 196, G 182
Fault code from solenoid N88, N216, N215

If you have any of these codes, your TCM is broken.

Thanks bro!
I will go to the stealership as soon as i get some cash and then ill com back to let you guys know WTF they say is wrong.

But im just making my mind to listen some asshole say "you must buy a new transmition".... because in my country mayority of stealerships are so noob and they just replace everything..

ghostridersa
17th August, 2012, 06:40 AM
Wow this site took some searching , I was in the middle of a TCM repair and was chatting to a guy on garageforum.com.uk when the site went offline and has been for three months. So the car is standing jacked up in the garage with the TCM lying on the work bench since then.

The TCM would work fine for about 20 to 30 mins untill gearbox warmed up and then prnd would just dissaper,scan and no comms with abs and ecu fault would come up.No fault in tcm would be stored.Let car stand for quite some time and all would come back on again.

I want to open the TCM but as this is not a direct fault but intemittent I am hoping I may see a visible fault, I just did'nt want to cut the unit open without proper guidence thanxs to your post i am hoping to start on it, chat soon Brad
Bgood, it was me you were talking to on the other forum which closed. You are the guy from Durban? Inbox me your email so we can talk and sort out your Audi.

jp_olli
4th September, 2012, 07:08 AM
Some new pictures. :) http://sdrv.ms/TUeziS

ghostridersa
4th September, 2012, 12:06 PM
Some new pictures. :) http://sdrv.ms/TUeziS

Many thanks JP_Olli, you are the master.

Zohar
9th September, 2012, 08:56 PM
Good job, JP_Olli!
Not many of people can do this job with ceramic units. Can you read/write this ECU (eeprom and flash)?

BR

luis12
10th September, 2012, 02:34 AM
Thanks Jp for support others even in time, this TCMs had make me headaches too but whit time works are easiest, only problem is to obtain the siliconic gel to replace removed, which you use?.

jp_olli
10th September, 2012, 05:39 AM
Flash read and write, haven?t tried. But you can connect Vag-com on table and read or erase dtc?s. Maybe I have the pinout somewhere...

About the gel. I clean the frame connection pads from silicone and leave them as they are after repair, maybe spray some plastic spray on them.

Zohar
10th September, 2012, 10:32 PM
Flash read and write, haven?t tried. But you can connect Vag-com on table and read or erase dtc?s. Maybe I have the pinout somewhere...

About the gel. I clean the frame connection pads from silicone and leave them as they are after repair, maybe spray some plastic spray on them.

Hi.

I have some good experience in repair of this units, but i do not know, how read/write flash and eeprom (you can clone ECUs with different software versions in any 01J unit). I know one guy, who can rewrite this ECUs, but his technology is a his secret, of course.

BR

sss123456
2nd December, 2012, 07:27 AM
Today is my first repair on this unit. after ran tweezer test for a few times on areas that is easy broken, i only found 2 broken wires.
soldered them with alusol.

I did not use any new wires.

I have a question to ask, are you guys solder new wire to old wire then solder the other side of new wire to the "frame" ?

and i dont dare to pull hard because afraid the old wire and the solder point on PCB will break off. That looks very very hard to solder back since the PCB covered by glue...


attached picture !

Million thanks to jp_olli

jp_olli
2nd December, 2012, 01:52 PM
I have a question to ask, are you guys solder new wire to old wire then solder the other side of new wire to the "frame" ?

and i dont dare to pull hard because afraid the old wire and the solder point on PCB will break off. That looks very very hard to solder back since the PCB covered by glue...


attached picture !

Million thanks to jp_olli

That?s how I connect new wires. First I solder new Wire to frame and then align old and new wires, then solder them together.

If you ever manage to break off a wire from the pcb you are using too much force.

Keep on going with the good work! :)

ghostridersa
2nd December, 2012, 02:05 PM
And once a wire is off the pc board you can throw the unit away. Or is there a solution to attach wire to pc board my dear friend?


That?s how I connect new wires. First I solder new Wire to frame and then align old and new wires, then solder them together.

If you ever manage to break off a wire from the pcb you are using too much force.

Keep on going with the good work! :)

madelgado
2nd December, 2012, 02:23 PM
I use a special welding machine to repair these units. The pads on the frame are covered with silver and the wires are silver as well. Being the same material, spot resistance welding I think is the best solution.

ghostridersa
2nd December, 2012, 02:35 PM
Can you please post some pics and details of the machine you use? Thanks


I use a special welding machine to repair these units. The pads on the frame are covered with silver and the wires are silver as well. Being the same material, spot resistance welding I think is the best solution.

jp_olli
2nd December, 2012, 04:58 PM
And once a wire is off the pc board you can throw the unit away. Or is there a solution to attach wire to pc board my dear friend?

Never tried that and hopefully never will. :)

ghostridersa
2nd December, 2012, 05:03 PM
[QUOTE=jp_olli;1787896]Never tried that and hopefully never will. :)[/QUOTE

I tried it and it was impossible and just messed up the whole board.

luis12
2nd December, 2012, 05:25 PM
Some wires have conection to the capacitors that usually are near pad, solder in these capacitors are possible, some times dont have and no solution unles you have special equipment like Madelgado, friend post some picks.
Imagine like this.
phttp://www.actronics.eu/en/content/129/Demonstratie-Simtec70.html

bob500
5th December, 2012, 03:29 AM
I'm in the same boat as the rest of you. 2004 A4 Cab 1.8T CVT 85,000 Mi. First got the shuddering, without any codes or without PRNDS flash. Car would drive fine in manual (Tip) mode. Would shudder in either D or S.

Then one night driving home, I could not accelerate. It would rev to 7,000 and I would be creeping forward. Got instant PRNDS flashing, and CEL lit up. Later checked the code --> P0811 = Excessive clutch slippage.

Now I am buying a VAG-COM, and I will look at the TCM codes. I will then probably change the TCM, maybe using BBN Reman.

I'll keep you posted.

Bob

Zohar
7th December, 2012, 10:39 PM
I use a special welding machine to repair these units. The pads on the frame are covered with silver and the wires are silver as well. Being the same material, spot resistance welding I think is the best solution.

Hello.
It is very interesting, because welding is more reliably and stronger than soldering.
Plz share photo of your machine and where i can buy it?

BR

Anmed
7th December, 2012, 11:02 PM
It is very interesting, because welding is more reliably and stronger than soldering.
This can not be in principle. Welding joins the same metals. In this case, the aluminum and not silver. Contacts are made of brass and aluminum sputtered. On a ceramic plate in places welding aluminum conductors - also aluminum coating. If you remove the coating with a scalpel, the soldering is not a problem. In place of the aluminum wire I solder the stranded copper wire. He has the flexibility and does not break from vibration as opposed to aluminum.

jp_olli
8th December, 2012, 01:31 PM
This can not be in principle. Welding joins the same metals. In this case, the aluminum and not silver. Contacts are made of brass and aluminum sputtered. On a ceramic plate in places welding aluminum conductors - also aluminum coating. If you remove the coating with a scalpel, the soldering is not a problem. In place of the aluminum wire I solder the stranded copper wire. He has the flexibility and does not break from vibration as opposed to aluminum.

True. I use tin-plated copper wire. It?s the same diameter as the aluminium wire.

ghostridersa
8th December, 2012, 01:53 PM
JP_OLLI, I agree with you I also use copper wire and never have a problem. Why? Because I learned from the master, JP_OLLI how to repair the tcm unit correctly.


True. I use tin-plated copper wire. It?s the same diameter as the aluminium wire.

Zohar
8th December, 2012, 09:28 PM
This can not be in principle. Welding joins the same metals. In this case, the aluminum and not silver. Contacts are made of brass and aluminum sputtered. On a ceramic plate in places welding aluminum conductors - also aluminum coating. If you remove the coating with a scalpel, the soldering is not a problem. In place of the aluminum wire I solder the stranded copper wire. He has the flexibility and does not break from vibration as opposed to aluminum.

Hello.

I fully agree with you about aluminium and about stranded wires (i use this wire too), but weldering is needed for some works with ceramic plates, though i use the soldering for ceramic works ( i use 12V 14W soldering iron with little sting).. For example : some OPEL hybrid ECUs (not all). They has coating with silver spraying, and if you will solder standard copper wire (like used in Multitronic repair) to this place - it will come off soon. This ECU will work after soldering maximum 1-2 month, and in this case - weldering is a one right technology, because coating have a big layer of silver and you can't remove it with scalpel.

BR

jp_olli
16th January, 2013, 07:42 AM
Hello.

I fully agree with you about aluminium and about stranded wires (i use this wire too), but weldering is needed for some works with ceramic plates, though i use the soldering for ceramic works ( i use 12V 14W soldering iron with little sting).. For example : some OPEL hybrid ECUs (not all). They has coating with silver spraying, and if you will solder standard copper wire (like used in Multitronic repair) to this place - it will come off soon. This ECU will work after soldering maximum 1-2 month, and in this case - weldering is a one right technology, because coating have a big layer of silver and you can't remove it with scalpel.

BR

This has been discussed before. :)

Pay attention to your working methods. Scalpel isn?t robust enough a sharpened screwdriver is and has a proper handle.

The units I?ve repaired have worked over two years and are still going.

BR
J-P

sogaro
2nd March, 2013, 05:17 AM
@JP_olli, please this is no longer available
https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=5548e6680e78b98b&resid=5548E6680E78B98B%21124&parid=5548E6680E78B98B%21107&authkey=%21ALg1BVEgJvxFg5c

kindly re-upload, thanks

jp_olli
5th March, 2013, 07:52 AM
You have pm.

yarecky3
10th March, 2013, 09:47 AM
can I ASK for same?
cheers

malc3469
21st March, 2013, 03:52 AM
can I ASK for same?
cheers
anyone knows that the solvent used to remove silicone gel?
and other chemicals?
BR.

ricostruiamo l***39;unit? ABS Bosch - YouTube

djemai
15th April, 2013, 05:47 PM
HELLO
WE HAVE NO ANSWER FOR THIS TYPE OF SILICONE GEL
IF ONE OF YOU A PRODUCT THAT WE CAN repaired

Revision Opel Multec ECU at ACtronics - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qRvf2b7MDM)
THANKS

spiridonas
18th May, 2014, 10:03 PM
Hi guys I have two multitronic from audi a4 and a6 the first with part number 01J 927 156 CG (faulty original) and the second 01J 927 156 JJ (good used).
Please how can to clone or how to change the second multitronic software ?
Thanks

ghostridersa
4th July, 2014, 07:10 PM
Use VagcanPro to clone it.


Hi guys I have two multitronic from audi a4 and a6 the first with part number 01J 927 156 CG (faulty original) and the second 01J 927 156 JJ (good used).
Please how can to clone or how to change the second multitronic software ?
Thanks

audivwauto
5th July, 2014, 07:11 AM
and what about vas ?

audirules
5th July, 2014, 02:16 PM
Vas can not clone a cvt tcm. It does not have the ability to do so. I use vagcanpro or magpro2 to clone dsg or cvt tcm units. With these two tools HW number and software can be cloned. Vas can only update software.


and what about vas ?

audivwauto
8th July, 2014, 06:17 PM
are you using original ,clone tools and version if may ask ?

einet
8th July, 2014, 08:41 PM
VCP not can clone this this is old K-line version and when you open VCP
on this ecu the "Flash" options goes to eeprom!

The only way is to convert the .SGO file to BIN but in the moment nobody can help!

I have this BEST tool, but have some that i dont can reflash with bin files.

audivwauto
13th July, 2014, 05:52 AM
so what tool should I buy then ?

audirules
13th July, 2014, 08:43 AM
For dsg cloning I use this tool in below attachment. Not cheap but it works.


so what tool should I buy then ?

audirules
13th July, 2014, 10:26 PM
Einet you can flash the unit. Just go to Options tab and select Override Ecu Functions and then you can flash unit.


VCP not can clone this this is old K-line version and when you open VCP
on this ecu the "Flash" options goes to eeprom!

The only way is to convert the .SGO file to BIN but in the moment nobody can help!

I have this BEST tool, but have some that i dont can reflash with bin files.

audivwauto
20th July, 2014, 07:45 AM
can it also do multronic ?
magpro 2 is on special 1800 euro is not to bad but I can do all edc17..med17.5 ecu s with abrites in boot but cant do simos PR2.1 and dsg ,multronic flashes ,maybe I must by vagcan pro too then

vasko
20th July, 2014, 07:57 AM
solved the problems with the gearbox?
See selector lever....
There are 2 magnets.number 6-7 rear side check .

powerchip
8th January, 2015, 11:59 AM
edit that post !

GolfmkI
11th May, 2016, 10:00 PM
Edit sorry

hristopm
25th June, 2016, 03:22 PM
Hello,
someone to know the parts number of the female connector for the Hytronic VL381F, VL300 ? I can not find it as parts.

Thanks in advance!

lagas
25th June, 2016, 04:33 PM
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Round-Connector-Housing-For-6-Speed-AT-Gearbox-Control-Unit-20-pin-1J0-927-320-VW/2020989501.html

hristopm
25th June, 2016, 08:26 PM
Nice 10x lagas.

Can you know the pinout ot this modul VL381F I need the supply terminals and the CAN Bus Terminals. Can I test it without the car with VAG COM?

lagas
5th July, 2016, 11:06 PM
Pinout i have needto find, but diag i thin only with can gateway or with some other devices.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

starkie01
11th August, 2016, 05:59 PM
hi meat -head looking for info regarding a a4 multitronic that has no PRNDS display and no communications with any other system on the car and seen your posts regarding these do you happen to have any ideas (looked inside ecu already ) and or wiring loom diagrams /test method to find cause of the issue

cheers in advance

Mike76
21st September, 2016, 06:55 AM
Hello.. Is JP_Olli still here or somewhere tto caontact ?

sazimam11
21st September, 2016, 09:26 AM
Here you are mates - complete Multitronic wiring diagrams

sazimam11
21st September, 2016, 09:29 AM
Although data communication is provided via CAN GW it worked for me to hook up the CAN wires directly to my original VCDS VAGCOM . Just FYI

lagas
21st September, 2016, 09:50 AM
Vl300? Yes it works but vl381F? Any one tryed ? Because usually i flash vl381f on the car. Cant do it on bench. Immo is acvive


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mike76
21st September, 2016, 12:34 PM
When repairing the Loose connections: Is it sometimes nessesary to solve on the board also or is it always only on the "frame" that the bad connections is ? And is it possible just to "heat up" bad connections Again or should I use som tin platet wire from "frame" to old Alu wire (and then cut a Little out from this)

Somebody have Photos ? because many of JP_Ollis links doesn?t Work anymore :-( ... Please helt, I should make this in the weekend and have studied all I can find.

lagas
21st September, 2016, 06:31 PM
solder old alu wire back. use alu solder.

Mike76
23rd September, 2016, 08:45 AM
ok .. It?s very hard to get alu solder anywhere , have tryed every Electronic i know, and all Company here nearby ..?

Pali33
24th June, 2020, 11:07 AM
hi all,
i had a few V381F ecus and no one had standard wire connections problem.
Know anybody what is the problem in V381F?
many thanks in advance.

ricked
25th June, 2020, 08:41 AM
hi all,
i had a few V381F ecus and no one had standard wire connections problem.
Know anybody what is the problem in V381F?
many thanks in advance.
you have 50% chance it wiring inside tcm other 50% is tcm itself and cant be fixed so "always" look before you buy a other one

jp_olli
26th June, 2020, 07:14 PM
Itīs been a while since Iīve written on this topic.

If you have problems with software KAM error, I have fix for that too and loosing communication with CAN when unit gets warm.

Cloning solutions are also available.

Itīs nice to see how the amount of repairers "exploded" after the tutorial released ~10 years ago. :)

ricked
27th June, 2020, 07:47 AM
Itīs been a while since Iīve written on this topic.

If you have problems with software KAM error, I have fix for that too and loosing communication with CAN when unit gets warm.

Cloning solutions are also available.

Itīs nice to see how the amount of repairers "exploded" after the tutorial released ~10 years ago. :)

what is the solution for this and what unit are we talking about, v30, vl300, vl381 dq200/250 0B5 ?:
"If you have problems with software KAM error, I have fix for that too and loosing communication with CAN when unit gets warm"

jp_olli
27th June, 2020, 04:18 PM
V30 and VL300. If wires are ok, lost CAN-communication is caused by loose CAN-filter on ceramic pcb.

KAM-error is because firmware is corrupted and needs working dumps with same sw-number. I have a few in my database.

lagas
27th June, 2020, 07:27 PM
any one seen any bdm points or adapters for read/write this ecus? have maybe 10-20 with some one flashed wrongly.

jp_olli
27th June, 2020, 07:47 PM
any one seen any bdm points or adapters for read/write this ecus? have maybe 10-20 with some one flashed wrongly.

SMOK UHDS and licence EU0021.

Bootpin is either wired to connector or not, depends on HW-version. Instructions come with SMOK sw.

ricked
28th June, 2020, 08:36 AM
any one seen any bdm points or adapters for read/write this ecus? have maybe 10-20 with some one flashed wrongly.

All can be fixed if needed


SMOK UHDS and licence EU0021.

Bootpin is either wired to connector or not, depends on HW-version. Instructions come with SMOK sw.

for v30 only some "old" have boot wire on pcb and connection is hidden in rectangular connector
"all" can be read and write if you have the correct tools (i dont have SMOK UHDS btw, but have pcmflash that i DONT use for this work)

if you know how these work you can swap boot and use other hardware if the original is not available at the time :tears_of_joy:
all figured out by testing hundreds of these over the last 15 years

also to make this more interesting the are more then 400 different software files for these tcm's

hint for free: production date and serial is at 0x250 - 0x27F in boot

also have area where flash counter is and algo to correct it and much more

jingyeu
28th January, 2021, 03:09 PM
Dear Sirs,

could anyone share the pics of repair steps for me? I want to repair my TCU with error of F125. Thanks a lot.

BRs,
Jingyeu

elektro128
14th March, 2023, 06:45 AM
hi
i need flash and eeprom for
V30 01J927156CG temic FRW

will be found?