bmw e46 ignition coil driver repairs

[cqae]

just did a 2005 e46 with blown ignition coil drivers inside the ecu due to 2 faulty coils. Is a pretty common thing & after sending a few off I have done the last few myself. I was going to sit down and write a tutorial for it for all you friendly DK users out there, but just thought I would check if there was any interest on it? I am pretty sure it will apply to nearly any car with a coil on plug set up that is driven directly from the ecu, so let me know if anyone wants it written & i'll get on it

[electromech]

M8 there are plenty of us here that want to learn something new

[rappttor]

anything new is always good...

[thewizardofodds]

getting writing mate

[cqae]

ok guys, no probs, just didnt want to write something that was useless! it will be done either today or tommorow

[cqae]

ok guys here is my little tutuorial, is only a first draft so please be kind! any suggestions feel free to let me know, any abuse feel free to keep it to yourself!

but if it has been at all helpful go ahead & press thanks.......I would!

[stegianduia196026]

thanks very helpful

[electromech]

ok guys here is my little tutuorial, is only a first draft so please be kind! any suggestions feel free to let me know, any abuse feel free to keep it to yourself!

but if it has been at all helpful go ahead & press thanks.......I would!
Thanks we need more posts like this !!!!

[darwins]

Thanks for some great info.

I struggle to get these off the board, Not done a BMW have tried some Ford units, Any top tips for removing these would be great.

Tried solder iron but i get no where fast, Tried hot air but this ended in a total loss

[roth18]

Excellent work cqae! Thank you very much for this!

[cqae]

no probs guys. as far as getting them off the boards, its all about heat. the chip is damaged anyway, so dont worry about cooking them.
I use an old style iron, with a big chisel tip. It is useless for electronics, I use it for general soldering, its made by scope.
I just heat it, then touch it to the top of the transistor & when you see the flux run out the sides, you can gently lift them off, just be gentle so you dont tear the pcb

[jp_olli]

Thanks for some great info.

I struggle to get these off the board, Not done a BMW have tried some Ford units, Any top tips for removing these would be great.

Tried solder iron but i get no where fast, Tried hot air but this ended in a total loss


This is how I would do the removing.

Tools: Hot air station (http://shop.wiltec.info/product_info.php/info/p2973_AOYUE-852-SMD-Rework-Station.html)
Preheater (http://shop.wiltec.info/product_info.php/info/p2977_AOYUE-853AInt-600W-Quartz-IR-Preheating-Station.html) or similar like this
Tweezers
Flux

First put the pcb on the preheater and set the temp to 180-220C let the pcb warm up and then add some flux to the componen to be removed.

When the pcb is preheated to the target teperature use the hot air station to heat the component to be removed. Start with 340C, increase the temp if necessary. It is suggested that you don?t go over 380C. Use proper airflow, from half to max flow.

That should do it with less stress to the pcb.

[cqae]

i have tried my hot air station & is hard to get enough heat under the center of the base plate. but it does work. since I am not worried about re-using the transistor I just heat away with the iron

[jp_olli]

Thats why I use a preheater. It makes the process so much easier, because it heats the component from the other side.

If using only hot air the opposite side of the board is at "room temperature", but the temp increases slowly.

When the board is preheated to 200C you don?t have to warm the component that much with hot air.

So you have heating on both sides of the component. There is no way I?d give my preheater away anymore. :D

[cqae]

there are things on the other side of the boards, regardless, each to their own!
Ive done a few of these now & am happy with the way it works for me

[darwins]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Sorry If my question is off topic a little because my problem has been with Ford EEC5.

I have a pre heater, the problem with the Ford units i've done is the metal case is bonded to the board, this needs removing to use a pre heater. The last one i done went well i thought, I replaced the faulty part to find a total none run.

Maybe my question should have asked for fitting suggestions rather than removal, Or maybe the solder is penatrating to the metal housing, I will have to check this now Im thinking back.

Thanks again.

Darwins

[jp_olli]

there are things on the other side of the boards, regardless, each to their own!
Ive done a few of these now & am happy with the way it works for me

I get your point. :)

You have a lot more experience with these and it has been very informative document for all of us. :)

[cqae]

Ive never done a ford one mate, but maybe if you can post a pic we might have some suggestions at least.

[darwins]

I will post the next time i get one here, Thank you..

Darwins

[ascotauto]

i too would like that tutorial would be of great help thanks man

[mariazo84]

thanks would like that tutorial perfect