FIESTA 1.4 TDCI 2005 NO ENGINE SYNC IN IDS

[digi-dash]

hi guys, above car no start. had an engine transplant, wouldn't start so came to me. in ids it says engine sync NO. cam and crank sensor earth wire measures 0 ohms with ignition off but 25 ohms resistance when ign on. also when ign turned off resistence remains untill ing relay turns off, (about 10 seconds) i have also noticed that when ign turned on there is a delay of a second or 2 before dash ign lights come on. checked ecu earths from single wire on batt terminal, splits to 4 black with yellow trace and all good. any suggestions appreciated, thanks steve

ps the car ran before transplant apparently

[sowczas]

Any fault codes? was the TB done?

[digi-dash]

no codes, tb? but incorrect timing wouldnt give resistence to sensors would it?, thanks steve

[sowczas]

Your sensors earth is really ground reference from PCM not from battery that's why you reading resistance. I asked about tb cuz in 1.4 TDCI it's very easy to make mistake, question is did they touch tb

[digi-dash]

i will ask on monday and post. thanks steve

[digi-dash]

hi again, i could still do with finding out about the delay on ignition lights and if anyone has one in could they check cam sensor earth with ignition on for resistance, thanks steve

[Albanais]

hi again, i could still do with finding out about the delay on ignition lights and if anyone has one in could they check cam sensor earth with ignition on for resistance, thanks steve
Hi mate
When you crank the engine do you have revolutions of engine speed or not, if not check the engine speed sensor on the flywheel, either the sensor is wrongly mounted either you have a kinked wire.
Second, if you had one engine transplant never trust what others tell to you, check the timing, you know one engine coming from the scrap yard even if the timing was well it may happens that timing belt jumps some teeth cuz of the long time staying with out working.
Thirdly resistance is the last thing you may check, as you have resistance it is a good sign because you know already that your sensor has no internal short cut, so keep going mate
Good luck

[digi-dash]

on crank engine show 250 ish rpm and fuel pressure around 350-400 bar. the customer bought the engine off ebay so condition is anyones guess. i did notice in data logger timing something about 180 degrees so maybe timing is an issue. will be checking on mon. maybe i was misled by resistance an ign delay issues rather than checking manual timing issues. anyway thanks everyone and any more input always gratefully received, thanks steve

[Digital Auto's]

Hi, on these systems it won't open the injectors until it sync's CAM/Crank. Its done to protect the engine. You're ecranking speed and injection pressure is fine. You need to scope the outputs from the sensors or with IDS and take it from there.

John

[digi-dash]

thanks....again will do monday, thanks steve

[albertros]

Hi,
forgive my totaly off the wall input, but I understand you need to tow these cars to get them to bleed and run.

[sowczas]

No, you don't need to tow them especially 1.4 it should have primary pump.

[digi-dash]

thanks guys but i think my prob is timing related as in live data on ids software it says engine sync NO...i feel this problem is caused by cam/crank sensor/wiring/ecu related or engine timing. any other suggestions that may cause engine sync probs or peoples past experiences appreciated.
i do agree these engines are prone to draw in air through bleeder bulb/fuel feed pipes but as i have good fuel pressure and no sign of air (and the fact i did try direct fuel feed from a can and pipe) i think i can rule out fuel but thanks for suggestions, thanks steve

[Fordracer4life]

hi guys, above car no start. had an engine transplant, wouldn't start so came to me. in ids it says engine sync NO. cam and crank sensor earth wire measures 0 ohms with ignition off but 25 ohms resistance when ign on. also when ign turned off resistence remains untill ing relay turns off, (about 10 seconds) i have also noticed that when ign turned on there is a delay of a second or 2 before dash ign lights come on. checked ecu earths from single wire on batt terminal, splits to 4 black with yellow trace and all good. any suggestions appreciated, thanks steve

ps the car ran before transplant apparently

Any time a circuit is being ohmed the circuit must not be powered as you willl never get proper results.

[Ashraf6119]

Hi

Is this Vehicle with Auto Transmission or manual Transmission ??

Also double check the Engine which is replaced is it the same as yours, because the Auto Transmission Engine and Manual Transmission Engine have difference in Crank Sensor fitting positions, that's why it could be its not picking signals from Crank Sensor.

There is a small round cup where the sensor is fitted which holds with 10mm bolt that's a difference between Auto Transmission and Manual Transmission so, if you can change that Cup housing it will change the position of Crank Sensor and it will match to your flywheel.

Hope this helps.

Ash

SP Have a look at the Picture with Red Arrow pointing to the Sensor Housing Cup.
See next picture one cup is for Auto Transmission and another one is for Manual Transmission they both look same but the fitting position for Crank Sensor is NOT same :hmmmm2:

[digi-dash]

fordracer4life..thanks you learn something new every day

ash thanks for that info..interesting and definately worth a look. the old engine is in the boot so on my list for monday, thanks steve

[digi-dash]

ok guys, had time to have another look at car. scope on crank good square signal. cam not square but sloping down on the horizontal line. scope set at 4v and 20ms. 5v good and earth no resistance with ign off. new sensor same result. used crank 5v earth and signal wires to cam sensor and same slope??? i have also checked all ecu earths and feeds according to ad and all are good with no reistance on earths and batt volts on feeds. cam sensor multiplug to ecu multiplug all good no resistance. took off timing cover and sensor is upto pully with no gap. tried another engine control relay as i had one spare. really need help now as running out of ideas. as always all adcie appreciated, thanks steve

[aspy39]

you need syncronisation between cam and crank before it will allow it to start, the guy who fitted the engine did he swop over all ancillaries from original engine or drop in a full lot from a scrapper, was the timing correct

[Meat-Head]

*DUMB QUESTION*

Have you checked the fuses inside the car.

Was reading some magazine think it was 'Dogging Weekly' or something.

Short story was a couple went away for the weekend dogging, and somehow managed to blow the fuse for the interior light or brake lights by flashing them to much.

Next morning, car no start, Towed to Ford Stealer 'ECU is ~~~~ed'
$600 bill no go. Turns out the fuse for immo was next to fag lighter fuse!

Just a thought. Just because no syhnce doesn't mean it's not got another fault.

[digi-dash]

thanks meat head but yes i have checked all fuses more than once and paid particular attention to eng man fuses removing and replacing not just checking continuity in situ, thanks all the same and any other suggestions to get rid of this headache much needed (other than paracetamol) thanks steve

[bob272]

hi mate,what scope you useing?

bob

[digi-dash]

vellerman hps10

10MHz Personal Scope Free Delivery : Oscilloscopes Function Generators : Maplin (http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?TabID=1&criteria=usb&ModuleNo=32611&C=SO&U=Strat15)

thanks steve

[chris1955]

Hi Can you confirm the Pats Light is off or flashing, If it is flashing what is the flash code?

Regards
Chris

[chris1955]

As an afterthought what type Diesel is it, EPIC requires coding of pump to immo system.
HTH

Regards
Chris

[digi-dash]

pats light goes out. in data logger when cranking fuel start goes to yes but engine sync stays at no. in module programming it doesn't have fip so assume no programming needed as pats light operates normally, thanks steve

[bob272]

if you know somone with a pico you could take a capture and i could compair you timming against another,

bob

[digi-dash]

thanks bob but i don't know anyone with pico. if my scope shows square on crankshaft would i not be right to expect square on cam??? tolerance data shows that set at 4v and 20ms cam signal should be square so i was assuming the non square signal was causing my engine sync prob. just can't figure out why a new sensor on crank wires isn't giving a square signal to test??? thanks steve

[bob272]

ill try and dig out a good file and see what i got.

bob

[digi-dash]

thanks steve

[BRAVO6]

Check the 5v input to the cam sensor.

[digi-dash]

thanks but checked 5v and earth both good, thanks steve

[nutloose]

I have seen a similar situation on a 1600 focus (HDI) where the crank sensor signal was good (for most of a revolution).
A loose piece of crap had got between the front pulley mounted inductive disc and the sensor and it couldnt synch because there was more than one missing pulse to synch with.
It only showed up as a slight fluctuation in rpm live data because of the smoothing effect.
It took ~~~~~~~innn ages to find it.

[digi-dash]

thanks i will check when i go back to car, thanks steve

[Meat-Head]

I have seen a similar situation on a 1600 focus (HDI) where the crank sensor signal was good (for most of a revolution).
.


now you said that non start reno - same circunstanses - DFM had BENT flywheel and STRIPPED THREADS - bast*rd - we wanted to damage it like that - flywheel 'wobblelled' - in and out of sensors field of view

[rocris]

thanks i will check when i go back to car, thanks steve

Hi,
please can you tell me end of story? i have same situation here....fiesta 1.4 tdci after engine swap " fuel start goes to yes but engine sync stays at no" and car don`t start.....

thank you!

[lamp1987]

In Ford dealer i had same problem change camshaft pulley from old engine if you look they are different one has eritrei td and one fomoco you need the td one . Pm me for help