View Full Version : Peugeot 307 1.4 hdi starting issue.
glyndwr1998
10th December, 2010, 01:19 AM
Hi, only bought the car 2 weeks ago, alitle disapointed with it.
OK, eml came on, antipollution on the display, code P0230,car wouldnt start when warm. Found fault to be the primer bulb worn letting air in and diesel leak. Changed return fuel hose harness ?120 http://www.peugeotcentral.co.uk/modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_mad.gif .Ok for a week, then today, wont start, eml on Plugged in a snapon diagnostic machine, codes P0233, high pressure regulator curcuit fault. Rail pressure less than minimum.
Reset the error code, tried to start, turned over for an age, then started, and run fine and smooth, no erratic running or smoke. Knocked off, tried to start, wouldnt start. Used diagnostic tool to check readings on live data.
Monitored injection system, noted fuel pressure set point at 305 psi, woulndt start, during cranking. Tried bumping, no joy. Engine rpm during cranking 260 rpm.
Tried to start again, started. Checked readings on pressure rail whilst running, fuel pressure set point 267, pressure in rail 280. Starts every time very quickly. without driving, revved engine over 5000 rpm a few times. Knocked engine off, wouldnt start, checked pressure set point, again 305. turned key on and off a few times, checked rail pressure set point, 267, engine starts no problem.
I am a novice at diagnostics, but am thinking, have i got a fuel rail pressure sensor fault as its parameters are changing, when high, engine wont start, when 267, starts every time very quickly, or fuel pump relay sticking, giving wrong readings. On previous readout from peogeot, cranking spped 250 minimum, so achieving the speed thro the starter motor.
Autodata shows error code p0233 as fuel pump relay circuit intermittant. I am trying to get hold of a lexia and see what that shows, to see if the information for that fault is the same.
Anyone got any ideas as to what i should check first, before i start changing components when they dont need changing.
I downloaded peugeot planet today to see if i cold access the software just to see what eror code p0233 means and a way to rectify, but on loading, needs to be plugged into the lexia tool, which i havent got.
Thanks for you input guys.
Hope someone can help.
I am in south wales, aberdare to be exact.
Best regards, Glyndwr1998
Liteace
10th December, 2010, 02:11 AM
Have you checked the fuel pressure reg ? its maybe sticking
http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/members/44003-liteace/albums/saxo/4262-f-reg.png
Albanais
10th December, 2010, 09:16 AM
Hello mate
Check the priming pump, prime it and if there is no leaks and no bubbles your pipes are in order so the low pressure circuit is okay. So on if this is okay, I mean if no bubbles then an-clip the pipe which one goes to the HP pump and re-clip it again, do the same thing for the other one. And if you still have problems then just change the fuel filter in order to make a good diagnose before changing parts.
Cheers
glyndwr1998
10th December, 2010, 10:16 AM
Cheers for the replies lads.
Liteace buddy, is the fuel regulator screwed to the pump, i was going to remove that part and clean it today. If not, could you point me in the diection where its located on the 307 1.4 hdi.
I changed the fuel filter last week when i changed the priming bulb and hose assembly complete been as the system was being disturbed.
The revious fault was the low presure circuit low pressure code p03230, this new fault indicates fault in the high pressure regulating curcuit, code p0233.
Thanks again lads, and liteace, if you do know where the reg is located, i would love to know.
Cheers, hope to hear from you soon.
Best regards, glyndwr1998.
Liteace
10th December, 2010, 11:18 AM
The reg is in the fuel metering unit
glyndwr1998
10th December, 2010, 07:00 PM
Hi liteace,
Spent all day on the car today, between the MOT and trying to solve this starting issue.
I tried to remove the fuel pressure regulator (or whatever component is fixed to the underside of the fuel pump.) After asking a peugeot tekkie for advice, that part isnt changeable on its own, only comes fixed with a new pump.
They suggested i maybe change the fuel pressure sensor on the end od the fuel high pressure rail, as this does cause my type of problems, and they have changed quite a few on my model of car, the 1.4 hdi.
Is this the same part as your are suggesting liteace buddy.
Apparenty, to get at this, the fuel filter has to be removed to gain access to the rail. Is this right mate.
Thanks for your advice.
Best regards, Anthony.
ninja123
10th December, 2010, 07:27 PM
hi mate, in my exp, your problem may well be the fuel rail pressure sensor, if faulty and not relaying the 'actual' fuel presure in the rail, the the ecu will not switch the injectors, this is true if the presure is too low or too high.
If the fuel flow regulator is at fault (also common, but not so common as the rail sensor) then a noticable drop in fuel presure on cranking will be seen. This part can also be reffered to as a 3rd pioston de-activator by some diag equipment.
Also, a worn or faulty injector can cause a low fuel rail presure situation, where by the fuel presure delivered to an injector is allowed to leak back via return pipe, thus reducing rail presure.
hope this info helps, regards the ninja
glyndwr1998
10th December, 2010, 07:34 PM
Thanks ninja,
been looking around, these sensors are about ?120, would you fit a second user one to see if it does clear the fault.
ninja123
10th December, 2010, 08:03 PM
must be worth a try!
Also, I have found several of these engines (in fords and psa models) where there is still air getting into system.
After further investigation, one of the fuel delivery pipes runs along the cam cover, but not visible until all plastic airbox is removed, and the pipe is covered with some kind of sheating, but remove pipe and cut off sheath and pipe has rubbed through.
I replace pipe with rubber fuel hose and no more probs.
regards the ninja
glyndwr1998
10th December, 2010, 08:24 PM
Hi again Ninja, i have aleady relaced those pipes last week with a new fuel hose set from peugeot cost ?120, couldnt beleive they could charge for somethig that costs less than a couple of quid to make.
Anyhow, thise have already ben changed, abd thanks again for your input.
Best regards, glyndwr1998
glyndwr1998
13th December, 2010, 09:58 AM
Hi ninja and liteace, good morning to you both and all on the forum.
Going top change the fuel rail sensor either later thisafternoon or tomorrow, and help and advice on the easiest way to change it.
Have read elsewhere that best access is to remove the starter motor, others advice the removal of the battery and fuel filter to gain acces over the top behind the engine.
Which way would you advice to get the job done,
Many thanks and a merry xmas to you all.
Best regards, glyndwr1998.
Albanais
13th December, 2010, 10:10 AM
Hi ninja and liteace, good morning to you both and all on the forum.
Going top change the fuel rail sensor either later thisafternoon or tomorrow, and help and advice on the easiest way to change it.
Have read elsewhere that best access is to remove the starter motor, others advice the removal of the battery and fuel filter to gain acces over the top behind the engine.
Which way would you advice to get the job done,
Many thanks and a merry xmas to you all.
Best regards, glyndwr1998.
Hi mate, just one other idea for you,just for information, I'm doing every day citroens and peugeots, so im sure that is not a problem of sensor. If you dont mind take a 5L can put some fuel inside and connect a pipe direct to the fuel filter, prime until you have no more bubbles and start the engine, if you fill a difference, than somewhere on the system you have an air leak or a clogged pipe.
Hope it will help you.
Regards
glyndwr1998
13th December, 2010, 10:34 AM
Thanks Albanais,
I have changed the fuel pipe harness complete with a new set from peugeot cost ?120 for a few pieces of plastic and a priming bulb :evil:. I cannot see any air bubbles in the small clear plastic tube near to the priming bulb, bet previous to the pipe chage, there was a constant passing of bubbles.
I have noticed after using the car alot over the weekend, that the car does start very well now, it now has an issue f cutting out, especially on low revs, ie pulling out of junction, going around slow corner then up alittle hill, sometimes cuts out. If i try to start without knocking the ignition off, will NOT start. However, when after a stall i knock off the ignition, then turn the key, engine starts 1st time very quickly, so something is resetting after ignition off / on sequence.
Thats why i think this is electronic related. I was going to buy a clone lexia but some reports sya they dont work well on a 307 diesel, i could have seen live data anf graphs and posted on here for your expert opinions.
any advice fr my nest step guys.
Thanks
Albanais
13th December, 2010, 04:04 PM
Exactly, it would not start because of the fault stored on the ECU once switch off and on again you reset the parameters and then you can start the engine, it is not an immo fault. If it cuts and it starts as you explained to me, there are two ways of interpreting the problem: If you are pretty sure that low pressure system is intact, that you clip and un clip the pipes from the pump, the either the o ring on the fuel pressure regulator is damaged either the fuel pressure regulator its self it is damaged. But I still believe that fuel pressure regulator in its self its okay.
glyndwr1998
13th December, 2010, 04:23 PM
Thanks again Albanais, for your valued advice.
Ok, so you beleive the fuel rail pressure sensor to be ok, but the fault to be in the fuel pressure regulator, and on the 307 1.4 hdi, is a bosch pump, is the pressure regulator the part that is on the botton of the pump?
I tried to remove that part on friday, very hard to get at, but did succeed in getting out the 2 retaining torx bolts, but the part would not come off the pump, still very tight.
I phoned lical peugeot dealer, and spoke to service tech, he said these parts are not available on their own, only come with the pump as a complete unit so he had never removed one to give advice on how tight they are within the housing that are fitted to.
With that info to hand, i replaced the bolts back into the regulator, reconnected the electrical wire, and put everything back together.
Have you changed the regulator, or o ring before on the 1.4 bosch pump unit.....
Thanks for your valued dvice again..
Best regards, Glyndwr1998
Albanais
13th December, 2010, 04:38 PM
You are welcome mate
A red your post and i will give you a tip how to remove it, in fact there are 3 bolts on this pump thats why you culdent remove it off. Google this bosch cp1h - Google Search (http://www.google.com/images?oe=UTF-8&gfns=1&q=bosch+cp1h&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=tjwGTYDlKdLhnQecvMHlDQ&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4&ved=0CDwQsAQwAw&biw=1280&bih=838) and watch.
I have replaced on other bosch pumps but no on this one. Take your time I know that you are close to resolve the problem
glyndwr1998
13th December, 2010, 05:34 PM
Hi Albanais,
that was really informative. Thank you.
When i tried removing that part in friday, the car was on a auto lift ramp, can hardly see nothing around the pump as its mounted where the injection system is at the back of the bulk head, very hard to see anything.
Our thougth was to remove it and soak it in brake cleaner to see if a good clean solves the problem. We couldnt get our finers around the regulator to feel if there were ant other bolts located, we managed to find 2, the 3rd must be a bitch to get at, as we cant see or feel it.
Peugoet say they dont sell that part seperately, so if i can get it out, would you recommend a good clean, and replace o rings where located, or buy replacement 2nd hand pump.
How would you proceed on this one buddy.
Thanks again, glyndwr.
BRAVO6
14th December, 2010, 12:54 AM
I read somewhere about a problem with the connector on the high pressure sensor on some HDI engines. There is and adaptor lead available from Peugieot. I presume it just makes contacts a bit tighter. It maybe worth spraying connector with contact cleaner and see if it makes any difference.
Albanais
14th December, 2010, 11:11 AM
If while removing you see that every thing is normal then you can replace it by a second hand one you can by it to bosch or on the scrap yard. I don't know in which country you are but normally you should have. There you can by it separately
glyndwr1998
14th December, 2010, 02:38 PM
Thanks all for your replies,
I had an auto specialist plug in diagnostics today, error codes p0230 ans p0231.
He suggested replacing the BM34 relay board first, as he has seen many faults on diesel peugeots where this relay board is faulty, and its quite easy to do, with many available form scrap yards.
Then, if that doesnt cure it, its the fuel solenoid on the pump. I bought a 2nd hand pump yesterday in case it was the solenoid pressure regulator, so shall look for a relay box later.
These relay boxes are common on 306 206 and some 406 models, so should be able to get one failry easily.
I have taken out my relay box and it has been looked at before as the locating screws were missing and the housing that covers the relay pcb was broken in 2 places, not sure if its already been changed, or someone accessing the original unit to check for defects.
I`ll replace it anyway and see what happens.
I`ll replort back later when i`ve located the parts.
Thanks and best regards, Glyndwr.
Albanais
14th December, 2010, 02:49 PM
Good luck mate
407ron
15th December, 2010, 12:26 AM
He suggested replacing the BM34 relay board first, as he has seen many faults on diesel peugeots where this relay board is faulty, and its quite easy to do, with many available form scrap yards.
I had a 307 1.4 hdi with a starting problem , it had the fuel primer/hoses changed out but still no good.
it was an intermittent starting problem....sometimes it would start first time,run it for 1 hr and it would'nt start again.
just keep turning over.....On pp2000 it showed no faults
The problem was solved by replacing the BM34 unit....:)
glyndwr1998
15th December, 2010, 04:30 PM
going to check out a 206 1.4 hdi tomorrow to see if the bsm b2 is the same and the part numbers match.
Dealer quoted price of ?120 today.
Does anyone have any info on lexia 3 chinese clones and wheter they work well on the 307 1.4 hdi cars pre 2004.
Thanks again for your help, i`ll update tomorrow on the bdm unit compatability.
baraa2003
15th December, 2010, 05:47 PM
you have to change fule pressure regulator,
i faced this problem and now every thing is ok
407ron
15th December, 2010, 09:48 PM
going to check out a 206 1.4 hdi tomorrow to see if the bsm b2 is the same and the part numbers match.
Dealer quoted price of ?120 today.
Does anyone have any info on lexia 3 chinese clones and wheter they work well on the 307 1.4 hdi cars pre 2004.
Thanks again for your help, i`ll update tomorrow on the bdm unit compatability.
I have a chinese lexia 3/pp2000 and its works fine on pre 2004 307's...Tbh it has not not left me down yet and all of the citroens/peugeots i have plugged into......:)
Larue
15th December, 2010, 09:57 PM
going to check out a 206 1.4 hdi tomorrow to see if the bsm b2 is the same and the part numbers match.
Dealer quoted price of ?120 today.
Does anyone have any info on lexia 3 chinese clones and wheter they work well on the 307 1.4 hdi cars pre 2004.
Thanks again for your help, i`ll update tomorrow on the bdm unit compatability.
Take a look around here on DK there is a lot posted about that and updates as well.:wavey:
ninja123
16th December, 2010, 10:31 PM
what unit are you refering to as a bm32?
is it under bonnet or in car fuse box?
ninja
glyndwr1998
16th December, 2010, 10:45 PM
Hi ninja bud.
Diagnostics guy said the relay / fuse board may have a fault, not uncommon on the peugeot, he saud try that before the fuel pump/solenoid.
The part is a BSM B2, its a delphi part, housed under the bonnet on the RH side as you look at the engine. Under a cove just behind thr air intake, 3 large multi plug connectors and 2 smaller connectors going to it.
My sons social carer (my son has cerebral palsy) has a 206 1.4 hdi on a 53 plate, i chrcked his to see if its the same, but his part is a seimens unit, looks the same tho.
I`m trying to find out if the seimans and delphi units are interchangeable as theres more 206`s about than 307`s in the scrapyard.
I want to try used one first as if its not the fault, than i havent wasted too much money buying it.
The diagnostics guy said these units havent got to be programmed into the ecu, so a quick and easy to change, shame i didnt have a friend I could swap the parts over for 5 minutes, i would know very quickly if it works correctly.
Thanks for your input bud.
Best regards, glyndwr
what unit are you refering to as a bm32?
is it under bonnet or in car fuse box?
ninja
ninja123
17th December, 2010, 10:46 PM
i have encountered a few probs with pug control units, but this unit you are refering to has only proved problematic with the internal relays sticking and causing flat battery situations. Also, I have never changed one, but i am led to believe that it will need coding??
Please update me if i am wrong.regards ninja
glyndwr1998
18th December, 2010, 12:04 AM
Personally bud, and with the views on the lads who have contributed on this post, my problem lies with the fuel pressure regulator on the pump.
I have bought a replacement pump, and plan to change it, but after i can confirm the bsm b2 relay unit is nit the problem.
I`ll then have to change the pump complete, as its probably a quicker job than the relay itself, as its a bitch to get at, may as well do the timing belt at the same time, been as its all disturbed.
Thanks again for your valued input bud.
best regards, glyndwr.
Albanais
18th December, 2010, 09:23 AM
Good morning bud
I just read your fault codes and it seams to be the BSM, I dont know if you speak french but any way use free translator and you can find the meaning of P codes on this link http://www.eobd.fr/fault_codes/P02xx.swf
Personally I have already changed few of them, for flat battery reasons, stalling of the vehicle without a reason etc. So go ahead bud, im sure for it, even the Pcodes that you have there, they compliant with the nature of your problem.
Regards m8
glyndwr1998
18th December, 2010, 12:26 PM
Thanks Albanais.
I have a delphi bsm fitted to my car. Do you know if a seimens bsm can be fitted ok, alot of peugeot 206 1.4 hdi`s have the seimens fitted, are they inter changeable.
again, many thanks, glydnwr
Albanais
18th December, 2010, 12:36 PM
If the connectors are identical and you can fit them on sockets, then just make sure that fuses are fitted as in the old one and no more problem. You can for sure fit it. They are plug and play they don't any programing or other
Tismot
18th December, 2010, 08:45 PM
Hi, Before you replace any parts you need to look at the desired and actual rail pressure readings in live data. HTH
Regards Mark
ninja123
19th December, 2010, 08:18 PM
plug in a decent code reader, set to live readings and monitor fuel rail presure as you drive.
If when de-accelerating it cuts out with a low fuel presure reading, then the fault is the flow reg in the pump.
Done 3 this week, it seems like the reg dosent respond quick enough to its instruction.
ninja
glyndwr1998
31st December, 2010, 12:30 AM
Ok guys, sorry for the delay in updating, weather been dreadful, and snow stopping any developments, also xmas as well.
My wife kindly bought me a lexia / pp2000 interface for xmas, so been getting myself used to the software, and configuring it.
Now its all working, done some tests using the interface and pp2000 on my laptop.
I`ll tru to get all info from the start, when i purchased the car at the start of december, so bear with me.
Car had previous diagnostic done by peugeot dealer, they diagnosed poor start issue to bad fuel pipes along the rocker cover, under the air intake filter housing.
I drove the car home from Reading to South Wales, car drove really well, apart from it taking a long time to start on cranking, but never stalled all the way home, some 200 miles.
I changed the fuel pipes harness complete with a new assembly from the dealers along with a new fuel filter assembly.
Car is now starting much better, but still takes a few seconds of cranking to start.
Now to the stalling issue, which is constant, i can make it stall any time I want to, for testing purposes.
The car always stalls when ACCELLERATING from low revs, commonly in 2nd or 3rd gear at about 1500 rpm. Apart from this rev range, it drives very well, ie, if i slip the clutch whilst changing gear to keep revs over 2000 rpm the engine never stalls.
With the car stopped, in neutral, I can rev the car slow or very fast to 4500 rpm (limiter) and the engine will NEVER stall.
So, the engine will always stall only ON LOAD and only in the rev range around 1500 rpm whilst increasing revs to pull off junctions etc.
In live data using PP2000 there is a massive difference in rail pressure refernce value and actual value.
The error codes P0230 and P0231 are always present when a stall occurs.
Readings
P0231 Permanent fault. Diesel high pressure regulation circuit. Pressure below setting and pump filling flow speed too high.
Engine speed 1349 rpm
Rail pressure 282 bar
\rail pressure reference value 792 bar
Pump flow setting 901mm3/sec
pump output regulator currwnt 1901mA
P0230. Permanent fault. Diesel high pressure regulation circuit. Pressure below reference value.
Engine speed 1220 rpm
Rail pressure 274 bar
Rail pressure refernce value 792 bar
Pump flow setting 843 mm3/sec
pump output regulator current 1921mA.
Those above readings were taken after a stall had occured.
I stalled the car 3 more times and these were rail pressure readings
1.Rail pressure 219 bar, rail pressure reference value 658 bar
2.Rail pressure 254 bar, rail pressure reference value 635 bar
3.Rail pressure 470 bar, rail pressure reference value 737 bar
I am sorry for the long post, but hopefully alittle more information now to try to get this issue sorted.
To sum up, The car never stalled until I changed the fuel pipes and filter fro new ones, but did have terrible trouble starting.
Many thanks again for your help, and hopefully someone has seen something similar like this fsult to suggest a way forward.
Thanks again, Glyndwr.
Albanais
31st December, 2010, 09:00 AM
It is time for celebrations mate, leave the work away, just celebrate.
HAPPY NEW YEAR AND BEST WISHES FOR YOUR FAMILY
CHEERS
glyndwr1998
31st December, 2010, 12:35 PM
Your right Albanais mate.
happy new year to all here, and thanks for all your help.
Catch up in a few days when hopefully we can sort this issue.
Best regards, Glyndwr.
glyndwr1998
4th January, 2011, 01:25 AM
Ok guys,
Hols over, and ideas and advice on what may be wrong witht he car, given the data from the lexia interface as posted above.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Many thanks, Glyndwr.
glyndwr1998
5th January, 2011, 04:46 PM
Ok,
small update, all same condition, but to start from first time in the morning, or after a long time standing, the car takes about 10 seconds on cranking before teh engie fires.
I shall plug in the lexia in the morning to monitor fuel rail pressure whilst cranking, but i do now that the cranking speed is 200 rpm.
Any help greatly appreciated guys.
Thanks.
Albanais
5th January, 2011, 04:57 PM
Try with putting +12 directly on the glow plugs and check if you have any difference, if yes than you need to adapt a relay on the existent one (Glow plugs relay). Already had this problem and it was the only way for repairing it
glyndwr1998
5th January, 2011, 05:23 PM
Hi Albanais buddy,
I shall try that, have you any ideas on the live data readings taken, or are you still thinking the BMS realy / fusebox may be the fault.
Thanks, glyndwr
EssexTech
5th January, 2011, 09:14 PM
Has this had a bit of petrol added lately. IE before you purchased it..
glyndwr1998
5th January, 2011, 11:30 PM
Has this had a bit of petrol added lately. IE before you purchased it..
Havent got a clue buddy,
dont know any history of the previous owner. altho its got full service history, i coulnt tell you if someone`s put petrol in by mistake.
I will say again tho, apart from the cranking 10 seconds to start, and cutting out on load in low revs ( below 1750 rpm) the car runs really smoothly, good power (after reset from limp mode) and no bad smoking, very clean burn.
Thanks.
BRAVO6
5th January, 2011, 11:59 PM
Is the high pressure pump Bosch. I had a Suzuki Vitara with PSA 2.0 HDI engine recently with simular problems. Turned out to be the fuel regulator on the back of the high pressure pump. Some systems have this valve on the rail, but if there is a valve on the back of the pump held on by two screws it's worth taking out and inspect with magnifying glass. There is a small 5 micron stainless steel filter on the inlet to the valve and if non genuine fuel filter fitted this can become clogged..
glyndwr1998
6th January, 2011, 12:07 AM
Hi Bravo6 bud,
yes indeed it is a bosch fuel pump.
I have tried to get at the fuel pressure reg a few weeks ago, but failed. There a 3 screws on this pump, could get at 2, not at the 3rd, a right bitch to get at. It is quicker to change the pump complete. I have got a spare pump, so am considering changing it, just wanted some expert views here before i took the plunge.
Thanks for the info tho.
Cheers.
Albanais
6th January, 2011, 01:46 PM
Havent got a clue buddy,
dont know any history of the previous owner. altho its got full service history, i coulnt tell you if someone`s put petrol in by mistake.
I will say again tho, apart from the cranking 10 seconds to start, and cutting out on load in low revs ( below 1750 rpm) the car runs really smoothly, good power (after reset from limp mode) and no bad smoking, very clean burn.
Thanks.
Good suggestion, once I have had also a car with mixed fuel and the symptoms where the same, you will notice it only by smelling the fuel other wise you will not notice it. It is worth to try it, I have discovered it occasionally to be honest so dont miss it.
Cheers
glyndwr1998
6th January, 2011, 02:46 PM
Thanks for your suggestions lads.
Since i bought the car, I have done 850 miles in it, and filled up with over ?100 of fuel, with the fuel guage warning light on before the next fuel, so would have thought any older fuel from any previous fillup would have now been burned off.
Thanks.
glyndwr1998
11th February, 2011, 06:55 PM
Update for you all,
It is now fixed. Yahooooooooooo........
I bougth a 2nd hand bosch fuel pump of fleebay from a 30000 mile 206 1.4 hdi.
I decided to relalce the whole pump rather than try to replace or repair the solenoid, in itself a bitch to get to.
Anyhow, changed the fule pump complete, and as it was apart also changed the timing belt, and all is now well.
The car starts very quickly now and it does not stall anymore, it also sounds as if its running better, smoother, not sure if the old pump may have been starving the fuel system of fuel.
So, vey happy, its all woking as it should. Thank you all for valued support, It definately helped me in my quest to fix it.
Thanks again, and best regards,
Anthony. :ciao:
glyndwr1998
26th April, 2011, 10:51 PM
Hi all,
wel, after a few months, and a few components change, this slow start issue still remains, it is very hard to pinpoint and sort out.
From the original diagnosis from peugeot, who stated 3 main areas for attention.
1. replace fule lines on top of engine, cost ?110, these were replaced, made no difference.
2. Replace fuel pump a solenoid may have intermittant fault, and allowing fuel to drain back to tank. Repalced this, made alittle difference for a short period, but did cure a stalling issue i also had, so at least some gain in the pump change.
3. Repalce starter motor as cranking speed alittle slow. Changed this also, made no difference.
Ok, after all this, the car still intermittantly takes an age to start, sometimes taking 30 seconds continuous cranking before the engine fires up.
Today for instance, first thing thismorning, car started ok, drove 10 miles, stopped for 10 minutes, then the car took 30 seconds to start.
Its really starting to get to me now.
This afternoon, i called to my friens house and put my peugeot planet onto his 2003 year 206 1.4 hdi. Its the same engine as mine, a year younger though.
I accessed live data to record what his conditions were during cranking and during idling, done this wrote down all readings in the injection parameters. the only thig that was hard to record, as his car starts very quickly, was the cranking speed of the starter motor, as his motor starts within 2 seconds.
plugged in the planet into my car and compared data.
As it takes quite a long time for my car to start, my readings are
cranking speed 230 rpm
cam crank sync yes
fuel pressure 110 bar ( i believe 100 bar is the setting to open the injectors)
all other readings from my friends car to mine were very similar, apart from during idle
EGR solenoid on friend car in idle 44%, my car 0%
on planet, setting shoild be 47% at idle 19% at 2000 rpm, but my car is either 100% when revved hard or 0%.
Would this EGR setting be the problem, would the egr be the reason for start issues, not sure of function of EGR, and advice welcomed.
OK, sorry fot the long post, but tried to get all information here for you to see, and hopefully come to some plan to fix this starting issue.
Once started the car runs very quietly (much quieter than my friends 206 1.4 hdi) doesnt smoke at all, a really nice drive, once started,
but it DOES always start, but after a long time of continouous cranking.
Please help me fis this long running issue on this 1.4 hdi peugeot.
Many thanks, Glyndwr.:afraid:
PierreTheron
22nd May, 2011, 03:24 PM
Hi
Have you tried cleaning the EGR ??
glyndwr1998
22nd May, 2011, 08:42 PM
No not yet bud.
I was considering blanking it off altogether, maybe do this this week.
I have got another fuel rail pressure sensor that i am going to fit this week as well to see if it is that what is causing this issue.
Thanks.
racin-snake
22nd May, 2011, 09:08 PM
not read the full thread but................ have you tried the spill pipe seals on injectors ?
also the wiring to the third piston cut off ? qand or the rail and pump pressure sensor
had one of these before that had a short to earth internally in the heater plug control relay caused non start but that should cause a code ?
wiring would be my next port of call after spill pipe seals
then i would consider a offed ecu for testing
eduardo74
22nd May, 2011, 09:18 PM
>>> heater plug control relay caused non start ?
Can you explain this, if there is DTC connected with glow plugs relay (circuit) problem, that can be reason to non start?
racin-snake
22nd May, 2011, 09:20 PM
only thing i could think of with this fault is that the glowpug relay pulling too much current for pcm voltage plus cranking ect ?
uncomfirmed but a new glowplug relay cured the fault ?
407ron
22nd May, 2011, 09:45 PM
Have you tried another engine bay fusebox...??
Came across one of these which was intermittant none starter...Once another engine bay fusebox (psf1) was replaced it was fine....:-)
glyndwr1998
22nd May, 2011, 10:18 PM
Hi all,
I have replaced the engine bay fuse box as well, it was a delphi bsm b2 unit, but i got hold of a seimens bsm b3 and swapped over, this made no difference.
Whilst driving the car today, it started quite quickly fisrt thing thismorning, but after driving for 20 minutes, the car stalled in low revs approaching traffic lights and wouldnt start. Hadf to leave it for 5 minutes, then it started after a very long time of cranking, probably cranking continually for over 1 minute, then all day it was very hard to start, to be honest i thought it wasnt going to start.
Where is the glow plug relay situated, can i disconect it then start the car afterit is warm so the glow plugs are not so important.
I am going to replace the fuel rail sensor later in the week, if that doesnt cure it, i`m going to have to sell it as I dont know where to try next.
I`ve already changed the starter motor, battery, bsm unit, fuel pump, fuel pipes on top of engine,
loosing paitience with it now to be honest.....
Thanks for reading, any other help much appreciated.
407ron
23rd May, 2011, 12:31 AM
Hi all,
I have replaced the engine bay fuse box as well, it was a delphi bsm b2 unit, but i got hold of a seimens bsm b3 and swapped over, this made no difference.
Whilst driving the car today, it started quite quickly fisrt thing thismorning, but after driving for 20 minutes, the car stalled in low revs approaching traffic lights and wouldnt start. Hadf to leave it for 5 minutes, then it started after a very long time of cranking, probably cranking continually for over 1 minute, then all day it was very hard to start, to be honest i thought it wasnt going to start.
Where is the glow plug relay situated, can i disconect it then start the car afterit is warm so the glow plugs are not so important.
I am going to replace the fuel rail sensor later in the week, if that doesnt cure it, i`m going to have to sell it as I dont know where to try next.
I`ve already changed the starter motor, battery, bsm unit, fuel pump, fuel pipes on top of engine,
loosing paitience with it now to be honest.....
Thanks for reading, any other help much appreciated.
Your having a hard time with this 307....any fault codes pop up since it stalled...??
autodiagnostic
23rd May, 2011, 11:00 AM
trouble code P0230, it means Fuel Pump Relay Contact Problem /Fuel Pump Relay Voltage High /Fuel Pump Relay Voltage Low. There are 3 possible codes all same number but differant wording after it.
glyndwr1998
23rd May, 2011, 03:56 PM
Hi 407ron,
yes buddy, plugged in my planet today read codes P0230 and P0231, the usual suspects, had these every time it has stalled in the past.
I am trying to analise the situation, and am coming to the conclusion that maybe the fuel rail pressure sensor is not functioning well at the lower pressure range.
I had it on live data today, abd checked the desired pressure reading with the actual ril pressure against the quoted reading s in planet, of memory tjhink its 360psi at 2000 rpm, which mine was, and at idle should be 275 bar which mine is. So i can verify once theengine is running that the rail pressure is matching the desired reading for that speed, but on cranking at long periods cranking speed is 230 rpm and rail pressure at that speed in 110 bar, and from my understanding, from reading many posts that the injectors are activated at 100 bar, so theoretically it should start.
Once started the car runs as sweet as a nut, which is so bloody annoying, very smooth, no smoking, very clean burn and quiet.
Very frustrating.
Thanks for your input, any ideas.
Your having a hard time with this 307....any fault codes pop up since it stalled...??
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