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View Full Version : Need help! Ford 6000 CD radio blown ?



m3mpower
30th March, 2012, 12:41 AM
Hi
I hope someone can help
I have a Ford 6000 CD radio / CD player, i connected to the battery but i wasn't paying attention and i connected the + and - the other way around and within 2 seconds there was a bit of smoke, i disconnected and reconnected the right way but now the radio does not power ON !
There is no fuse at the back of the radio!
I removed the PCB and i can see there is a "cracked" IC ?
Anyway, i would appreciate is someone could help to bring this radio back to life!
What should i replace ?

Thanks in advance

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x244/m3mpower/IMG_4347.jpg
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x244/m3mpower/IMG_43551.jpg

smokey08
30th March, 2012, 12:51 AM
Mark on the picture where the cracked ic is.

m3mpower
30th March, 2012, 01:10 AM
Mark on the picture where the cracked ic is.

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x244/m3mpower/DSC07204.jpg

m3mpower
30th March, 2012, 01:20 AM
It has reference:
420 2BA
Not sure what this part is and where it can be bought...
Any ideas?

Thanks

willywonker2010
30th March, 2012, 01:29 AM
hi its just a power diode
cpc or farnell or maplin ebay

m3mpower
30th March, 2012, 01:49 AM
hi its just a power diode
cpc or farnell or maplin ebay

Hi
Thanks for your help

I have a damaged RCD200 and i looked on the PCB and found a similar diode, exact same size but different numbers, i guess i can use this..?
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x244/m3mpower/DSC07209.jpg

m3mpower
30th March, 2012, 11:39 AM
Hi
I have replaced the power diode and the radio still does not power up !

I have checked with a multimeter while the radio is connected to the battery and there is power coming to the diode

Any other ideas please?

Thanks

willywonker2010
30th March, 2012, 06:09 PM
dont forget u need both lives
and both earths
for radio to power up
earth x2
ign 12+
batt 12+

Dunker
30th March, 2012, 06:21 PM
It looks like a quadlock connector so you should only need 2 x earth and 1 x live for this radio. Either way, check if you have supply voltage to MCU. Also check voltage to on/off button. Whats the exact part number for the radio.

m3mpower
30th March, 2012, 07:15 PM
dont forget u need both lives
and both earths
for radio to power up
earth x2
ign 12+
batt 12+

Hi
Yes i know, i have a pre-made connector for Ford radios..

Any ideas how to fix this?

thanks

m3mpower
30th March, 2012, 07:19 PM
It looks like a quadlock connector so you should only need 2 x earth and 1 x live for this radio. Either way, check if you have supply voltage to MCU. Also check voltage to on/off button. Whats the exact part number for the radio.

Hi
Willywonker2010 is right, it needs 2 earths and 2 lives, but it is still not powering..

The model number is Ford 6000 CD, Visteon PWB14672, VP6S6F-14A608-CH

i have checked the voltage to power diode and most fuses and they seem to be OK..

How do i check MCU and power button ?

thanks

Dunker
31st March, 2012, 10:12 AM
Voltage meter on the 2 pins that short when power button is pressed. Usually one is earth and other is 5 volts. 5 volts will drop to zero when button pressed. Also find 5 (or maybe 3.3) volt feed to MCU - there will be a reservoir capacitor near it. I suppose you can check voltage to MCU xtal - use a digital voltmeter. Usually 2 to 2.5 volts (its a sine wave but a digital voltmeter will give you a clue if its oscillating.

m3mpower
31st March, 2012, 01:42 PM
Voltage meter on the 2 pins that short when power button is pressed. Usually one is earth and other is 5 volts. 5 volts will drop to zero when button pressed. Also find 5 (or maybe 3.3) volt feed to MCU - there will be a reservoir capacitor near it. I suppose you can check voltage to MCU xtal - use a digital voltmeter. Usually 2 to 2.5 volts (its a sine wave but a digital voltmeter will give you a clue if its oscillating.

Hi
Thanks again for your help
I don't have much experience with these boards so could you please show me where the 2 pins are on the board for the ON/OFF button?
And where to check voltage to MCU?
I do have a digital multimeter
This is the photo of the board

Thanks very much
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x244/m3mpower/IMG_4374.jpg
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x244/m3mpower/IMG_4371.jpg

radiosolutions
31st March, 2012, 04:20 PM
m8 the diode which has blown provides protection to the pcb, what happens if there is a short,this diode will blow and cause a short which then will blow fuse in the vehicle, so i would check you fuses and your power feeds first.


dont forget to press thanks

m3mpower
31st March, 2012, 05:07 PM
m8 the diode which has blown provides protection to the pcb, what happens if there is a short,this diode will blow and cause a short which then will blow fuse in the vehicle, so i would check you fuses and your power feeds first.


dont forget to press thanks

Hi
The radio was not connected in the vehicle, it was connected on a bench...
So something is not right in the PCB and not on the vehicle

Thanks

m3mpower
25th April, 2012, 10:18 AM
Hi
Any other help guys?? i'm still trying to fix this..
Does anyone know what to do please ?

Thanks

Meat-Head
26th April, 2012, 09:17 PM
ON TOPIC:-

a long long long time ago had a car in, the bloke was a vicar, his radio was dead.

Was unable to see why it was dead, so told him it was ~~~~ed and sold him a new one, buggered if could find the fault - the only thing on the board was a piece of foam rubber ripped it off, and there laughing was a blown track.

Also, as you have the board out it might use the case as a 'link wire'

if possable can you 'join' the case solder points to neg or put back in the case.

as a rule the diode is across the suplly rather than in series WHY? - so in theroy everything should be ok.

Now it might be worth looking around the processe area, look for capacitors and chips with 3/4/5/6 legs use google the numbers on them untill you get regulator then use the datasheet to test for power.

OFF TOPIC & AGAINST DK RULES:-

Will send a PM to a DK member who skanked a ford radio off me, see if he can sell you it.

(that will pay my hotel bill for my next vacation!)

HTH

Meat.

m3mpower
1st July, 2012, 07:40 PM
Hi everyone
I have looked at this stereo again today, after giving up for a few weeks!!
I have compared the circuit board with a "working" headunit..
While connected to power, i have tested every fuse and every capacitor...
Here are the differences between the working headunit and the non working one:
On the faulty one, there are 2 capacitors and 1 fuse and 2 main points that are showing 0 volts
On the working one, these are live +
Please look at the photos below
Do you think if i change the capacitors the headunit will work?
( yes i guess i can try but i need some advice...)

Thanks in advance
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x244/m3mpower/IMG_5365.jpg
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x244/m3mpower/IMG_5376.jpg

Meat-Head
1st July, 2012, 08:10 PM
just strap a bit of wire to the 'live' (dead) point, join to power - stand back.

sounds like it a multilayer board and something internal has a blown track.

Would be worth folling each 'dead' track back see where it goes.

m3mpower
1st July, 2012, 09:00 PM
just strap a bit of wire to the 'live' (dead) point, join to power - stand back.

sounds like it a multilayer board and something internal has a blown track.

Would be worth folling each 'dead' track back see where it goes.

Should i change the capacitors circled in red in my previous photo?
Or, should i somehow test them ?

Thanks mate

Meat-Head
1st July, 2012, 09:06 PM
Should i change the capacitors circled in red in my previous photo?

Under the circumstances, i would just solder a wire to the big capacitor - the positive one.

End of day on face value it had for a split second bacwards charge up it's arse.

would be more conerened about the amplfier chip being fried.

Use your other radio - figure out if that capacitor is B+ or IGN fed - conneect it to which ever, stick the lid on, then mix some concrete up, seal it good, let the concrete go hard for 24 hrs - then try it if it works great, if it don't it's ~~~~ed, you need an new one.

m3mpower
1st July, 2012, 09:31 PM
Under the circumstances, i would just solder a wire to the big capacitor - the positive one.



OK, so i should solder a wire to the big capacitor and/or run a + wire to the power point ..? what if the radio works then, what does it mean?
Sorry about all these questions but i want to save this radio, it'll be a shame to throw away !!

Meat-Head
1st July, 2012, 09:50 PM
OK, so i should solder a wire to the big capacitor and/or run a + wire to the power point ..?


1) If you had a telly that was in the river for 6 months - would you try
and repair it, or chuck it.

2) The working radio - plug it in the car, jab your favorite voltmeter on the POSITIVE side of the capacitor - take note of the reading

3) Turn ignition on - see if it changes.

4) *GUESS* it will be live all the time - which ever, solder a wire onto it - dremal the case if you have to and connect to B+

if it works job done, if it don't

a) solder links here there and every where to that pos

b) Stick on ebay - as 'un tested'

m3mpower
2nd July, 2012, 12:56 PM
Hi
Can it be a faulty semiconductor? the Multiple voltage regulator NXP70966FB? i have looked at the board and i can see the + of the big capacitor is connected to this part ( it is the IC that looks like the amplifier IC ), and then also this NXP IC is connected to the rest of the fuses....etc
I have searched on google for a seller but can't find this part, found a link where it says the equivalent could be TDA3683J .

Has anyone ever fixed this kind of problem ??
Here is a photo
Thanks
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x244/m3mpower/IMG_0237.jpg

Meat-Head
2nd July, 2012, 09:53 PM
think the best thing you can do - although against DK rules is ask if anybody has one that is "13 locked" for sale.

rob the bits to your hearts content.

Just going to send a DK member a PM - no user names - that MIGHT have one of them for sale - with history :roflmao::roflmao::roflmao:

m3mpower
2nd July, 2012, 10:09 PM
Here is what i found out today about that semiconductor:
TDA3683J :: NXP Semiconductors (http://www.nxp.com/products/power_management_ics/linear_voltage_regulators/multiple_output_regulators/TDA3683J.html)