edc16c31 gets hot

[bijlaard]

Hi There,

This is going to be a long story, hoping somebody can help find the problem.
It's the edc16c31 from Volvo, until 2007 we can read and write it with the bdm clone , never had a problem.
The new type volvo 2008 and up, don't work with the clone.
For these ecu's we bought a FGTech, sometimes it works sometimes not.
When not the car starts but engine does not run, or run half, or does nothing,
Because of this we bought the ori bdm_to_go from evc.de.
We did this because this and another reason and that is that the tuner next to us in our village uses the same tool and when we did bring a 2008 and up opend ecu's to him, there never is a problem for them to read and write them.

Now we used the BDM-to_go and read and write with it, with the winols 1.7 witch we downloaded from DK.
Putted the ecu back into the car, the car did run Idle for 30 secs, i made it do 3000 rpm and then it stopped, ecu hot in red cirkel area.

I did resolder that part but no use. when I plug it on the car it gets hot in the red area and the car doesn't start.

Does somebody have any clue what is happening ?


rgds Ina and Obbe

[xdamdamx]

PCB damaged while opening ECU. EDC16's are not so easy to open as it seem.

[antibisic]

hot in red cirkel area.






Change these two drivers in the cirkel area

[bijlaard]

When those 2 should be broken,
why does it never happen with the edc16 from volvo before 2008 ?
I think they are voltage regulaters powerdrivers ot something the should get warm, but hot ?
and next question off course is, when we open a ecu and bring it to TVS tuning there never is a problem, only time we have problems is when we try read and write ourselves (even with ori bdm and crack winols)
Can it be a software problem ?

[easytech]

When you take the ecu apart special the glued bottom,
you have to beware that the thermal conductive glue is also an electrical insulator.
Various parts are at 12v and the power stages for the injectors are at 90v.
The drain of the power fets MUST be insulated again!
The FETS and/or the powerdrivers are destroyed now.
This is most likely your problem.

This can happen at the moment of starting the car or after a few days or months.

[bijlaard]

That , could be the reason..

Is there a place where i can buy these FETS and powerdrivers ? or is replacemend not possible because they are programmed.


when i buy an ecu from the scrapyard it again costs a lot of money so an adress voor spare little parts should ne nice :-)

I have 5 from these not working ecu's arround here,

rgds

[easytech]

When the chip in the upper left side of your picture gets very hot then forget this ecu.
It is the voltage regulator for 3.3v, 5v and 12v.
So there is major damage.
The 4 transistors at the upper right are the lowside drivers for the injectors these are common power fets like IRF9540.

Why don't you read these ecu's by K-line?
Use a proper tool.

[bijlaard]

The guy who makes the remap's for us told us to use bdm100 ...
I just did try to read with K line, I send it over to let it check if it's ok .
I tried to write the same file back , that functionend

rgds

[pablo1971]

how did you open the ecu....i personally,remove the screws,place it in the oven for 10-15 minutes until it is hot to touch-then remove from oven,use a cloth to hold,then i lift the cover off.starting away from the heat sink side....ive open a few now.with no problems....but it would be nice to see how other people open theres...

[bijlaard]

Remove screws, heat up the sides with hot air, lift metal top with screwdriver.
Then remove the screws who hold the pcb, heat up the rear from the cooling part, lift carefull with 2 screwdrivers the pcb from the metal cooling part.


rgds

[wiseman]

I Start in the bottom right corner for edc16, using a heat gun, a lot of thermal paste on left side to watch for

[konopel]

Alientech and Dimsport at work with EDC16 + make following recommendations:
"After opening the ECU and before proceeding with reading and/or programming, you are strongly advised to reconnect the unit to the vehicle and start the engine, to make sure it still works".
Did you do it?

[Pedro Poland]

Hi bijlaard

With EDC16C31 or EDC16CP31 do it very carefully, and if it is not necessary it is not open for reading. It is better to invest in a tool to read the vehicle's diagnostic connector. The multilayer PCB are firmly glued and so easily damaged. It is safer to make a hole on the other side of the case to read the BDM.
I wish you good luck.

[bijlaard]

Alientech and Dimsport at work with EDC16 + make following recommendations:
"After opening the ECU and before proceeding with reading and/or programming, you are strongly advised to reconnect the unit to the vehicle and start the engine, to make sure it still works".
Did you do it?

No I did not do that :-(
In the future I will

@ Easytech, and others: What is the proper tool in your opinion(s) ?

I know with Volvo u have to make a seperate wire to pin 43 of the ecu.


rgds

[easytech]

I have CMD original and Byteshooter original.
Also a Galetto clone for some old ecu's both ori tools can't do.
I know this issue it happens me 2 twice in the past.
With new transistors it is still running.

With the sperate K-line it is simple reading and writing.

[spawns3]

I have this kind of problem on volvo 1.6D from 2006 , the ecu is a edc16c34 but i can't read it :S

[konopel]

I have this kind of problem on volvo 1.6D from 2006 , the ecu is a edc16c34 but i can't read it :S

Specify please Volvo model

[spawns3]

Volvo S40 1.6D from 2006.

[konopel]

Volvo S40 1.6D from 2006.

If there is EDC16C34 it is not present in list of the FGTech Galletto2 on OBD, but you can try read it as Ford C-Max (Focus) 1.6 TDCI (engines are similar - better on the bench), if Simens SID 803A it can be read and written down on BDM. But I once again would try to read it on BDM by means of FGTech. It seems to me it can be made. If listed all above does not help that it is possible to read and write down on BDM by means of K-TAG, but the equipment price high enough.