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WOODWARD395
13th July, 2014, 09:21 PM
Hi put this in the wrong forum so placed link here

http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/f166/mk-5-golf-plus-2006-cant-find-air-con-pressure-switch-429457/

betrescudan
13th July, 2014, 09:28 PM
look this video from minutes 2,14 to 2,30...you can see the presostat fixed to tube aluminium of compressor ...Replacement compressor and condenser VW GOLF GTI 2006?????????HD - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihWjQBzp4UQ)

WOODWARD395
13th July, 2014, 10:38 PM
look this video from minutes 2,14 to 2,30...you can see the presostat fixed to tube aluminium of compressor ...Replacement compressor and condenser VW GOLF GTI 2006?????????HD - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihWjQBzp4UQ)
yes its in the video where you would expect it to be but its defiantly not there tried to follow the pipe as far as I can the only place I think it can be is on the bulk head behind the egr valve area.

betrescudan
13th July, 2014, 10:44 PM
http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/customavatars/avatar155927_1.gif can be only on circuit of compressor...follows the aluminum tubes to compressor

WOODWARD395
13th July, 2014, 11:17 PM
Thanks m8 going to strip of engine tomorrow and see where it is its somewhere but well hidden I know on the golf gti its at the front just next to the compressor. I will find it tomorrow .

thanks for your help much appreciated.

WOODWARD395
14th July, 2014, 08:58 AM
Found where it goes thanks to mrriadh the person who sent me the diagram hidden in beside the radiator. number 18.

268477

tried to upload so you could see it wont do it for some reason

WOODWARD395
14th July, 2014, 11:25 AM
Great found it now to test it but how don't have any meter to test resistance someone told me to put a paper clip into two of the plug connections and it should start working if the pressure switch is at fault.
But I don't think it wise to do that as the air con has it own ECU would work out quite expensive if I shorted it out.

found this which might help http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMi3VDkPdCo

WOODWARD395
14th July, 2014, 08:56 PM
This is the error codes I am getting doing a vag k+can commander I have translated from German. finally got it to work :driver:

OK system description climatic PQ35-090
1/2 00E5 status permanent error
lower limit exceeded.

2/2 0333 high pressure generator
G65 status sporadic error
cut in short to ground, :ridinghorse:

G65 is the pressure switch I have found that out at least

Looks like betrescudan was correct should have had more faith. thanks

WOODWARD395
17th July, 2014, 11:53 PM
The switch was faulty and all DTC codes cleared but still no cold air god I was cooked today all re-gassed found out clutch is always engaged on the golf mk5 any suggestion's appreciated don't really want to go for the control valve on the compressor yet need to try easier options first getting expensive now.
been driving around all day cooking but no new errors.

smokey08
18th July, 2014, 10:36 PM
There is no clutch on these compressors, They turn all the time.

I often see the plate on the end of these compressors with sheared splines so the shaft inside does not turn. You can see this by the bolt on the end not turning.

Type "SSP 208" into google and this may help you understand the system.

Meat-Head
19th July, 2014, 07:45 AM
Ffs smokey beet me to it, was stalking.

there is something about engine stopped , belt off? , turn by hand should be 'lumpy' if not the doodle has snapped

WOODWARD395
19th July, 2014, 09:04 PM
Ok went back to basics and started at the compressor checked power feed getting feed and ground everything I need for the pump is there the valve is fluctuating you can see it on the gauges but no pressure increase the compressor is not compressing. it could be the valve so what do I do change the valve or the whole compressor. cost of valve approx. ?80 or compressor ?274 if I change the valve and then need to change compressor ?80 down the drain.
if any one knows how to test the compressor without a strip down I would appreciate it.

WOODWARD395
19th July, 2014, 09:07 PM
There is no clutch on these compressors, They turn all the time.

I often see the plate on the end of these compressors with sheared splines so the shaft inside does not turn. You can see this by the bolt on the end not turning.

Type "SSP 208" into google and this may help you understand the system. checked it out today only wish it was but that still would mean a new compressor at nearly ?300

juniormaxxx
20th July, 2014, 01:03 PM
on g5 there is control vale (as you finaly discover) so compresor work all the time but valve control displacement of compresor like we can say eficency from 10-90%...in you diagnostic toll you can see how much curent this valve surge..about 850mA is max..so IF you see that vale surge 850mA and there is still only small diference between IN/OUT presure..then its time to remove compresor..cleane inner parts vhere is conections for pipes,remove valve plate..clean it from any debris,pun new valve and maybe all finaly work as it shoul be

Meat-Head
20th July, 2014, 04:50 PM
Confused

photos or it didn't happen

juniormaxxx
20th July, 2014, 07:44 PM
Confused

photos or it didn't happen

there is no need for photos (at least I dont hae any) but its easy task..on 10 dead compresors at least 7 you will save with this procedure...so remove compresor from car ...open it carefuly you dont need to dismantle whole and remoe pistonsetc...yust remove back side plate this plate is housing for control valve..also there is valve plate..look at it are they all here..sometime one or more fail...also this need to be wet from oil..if you compresor look black ish..like burned..then simple trash it..that black burned oil means its realy dead dont bothering to save dead men....but if all look fresh oiled..then you hae chance with cleaning VALVE PLATE and exchange CONTROL VALVE....drain and discard old oil...put new inside and you are ready to go...for next 2-3 year.....
IF youre compresor look black and without oil..then consider AC flushing procedure..because new one will FAIL too...at least remove all pipes what you can flush them..put new receiver/dehidrator..

so much trouble on this type of AC..

WOODWARD395
20th July, 2014, 08:42 PM
on g5 there is control vale (as you finaly discover) so compresor work all the time but valve control displacement of compresor like we can say eficency from 10-90%...in you diagnostic toll you can see how much curent this valve surge..about 850mA is max..so IF you see that vale surge 850mA and there is still only small diference between IN/OUT presure..then its time to remove compresor..cleane inner parts vhere is conections for pipes,remove valve plate..clean it from any debris,pun new valve and maybe all finaly work as it shoul be

I believe that has been done by my m8 and he turned air con up full and all the pressure done was fluctuate slightly but I cant remember him putting an amp meter on it. where exactly do I need to take the readings from.

269412 is it the flat side that is positive and round ground. Or is it the other way round.
just to clarify, So if I measure the (mA) from the live when its connected on max air con it should give out approx. 850mA and pressure should rise considerably.

juniormaxxx
21st July, 2014, 06:27 PM
woody..no you dont put A-meter anywhere..I mean you CAN but why ? all diagnostic on world have some measuring block function so use it and read it..vagcom or any other diagnostic tool is able to tell you alve curent...basicaly 850mA is FULL or MAX displacement..this compresors can run on high as 25 bar..IF youre blowers dont work..so be carefuly..at least one blower should work..when presure rise you will see that curent go down..about 200mA is 10-20% displacement of compresor.....

IF you dont have any diagnostic of course you can conect in serial any A meter...remember this is PWM regulation from youre AC controler..sometimes digital A meter are tooo fast for acurate reading..use ****og (if you can find any under desk)

about time to rise presure..if all is ok..in 30sec there should be 15-20 bar on high presure side...then blower kicks in and stabilize the presure on something about 12-16..in relation to outside temperature...there is table for 134a..on this table you will see relations between outside temp and presure in system....

cqae
22nd July, 2014, 03:45 AM
dunno if this is any help to you, but its something I found helpful when I first saw these

WOODWARD395
22nd July, 2014, 09:24 AM
:top:Thanks for that it has actually confirmed RCV or the compressor the pressure stays constant on both sides just a very slight fluctuation when you request load from the compressor.
done a test as our friend juniormaxxx suggested and I get 820mA on full load.

I am going to remove all gas then the RCV valve to see if any debris is in the small mesh filter if there is none I am going to replace the RCV of another pump which I know the RCV is working and see whether I can get the air con to fire up.
If there is debris then I will need to change the pump and dryer flush the whole system which I don't really fancy but it has to be done.:blue:

Will keep the thread updated let you know the expensive outcome.:listen:

A big thanks to all who contributed to this thread and any more advice appreciated.:star:

We really do need a section just on air con as it is quite a complicated system.:pcguru:

juniormaxxx
22nd July, 2014, 05:42 PM
820mA is OK this should be full capacity..DONT change RCV only...this trouble is related to old oil..as you can understand RCV have realy small movement inside 1-2mm..remove whole back plate.clean it carefuly.carefuly lift valveplate not breaking gasket under it..clean it what you can..pour out old oil....look on label how much new oil to put inside when you finish...
IF there is no grey oil inside you a good to go after new dryer....very shity construction...lot of debris in evaporator(under dashboard) but major part of debris is inside condenser (front cooler)

WOODWARD395
22nd July, 2014, 10:54 PM
Getting everything ready for my strip down states I need sp10 oil for sanden compressor 160ml cant find it anywhere surely its just refrigerant oil.
any pointers.

cqae
23rd July, 2014, 02:10 AM
most of the PAG oils will replace it, just need to look up the specs, I use nippon oils but I think they are an australian company

juniormaxxx
23rd July, 2014, 06:06 PM
Getting everything ready for my strip down states I need sp10 oil for sanden compressor 160ml cant find it anywhere surely its just refrigerant oil.
any pointers.

SP is yapanesse trade..for all other world we use PAG (in 134 sys) closest eqivalent to youre sp10 is PAG ISO 46...you will find PAG oils in only 3 visco..46.. 100 and 150 for you 46 is almost ident. like sp 10..check on ebay ..you dont need to buy whole bootle 0.75lt ...sometime folks sell original in botles like youre quantity 0.16 or 0.25...so worth to check as this could be expensive game..


look here -- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Focus-Mondeo-Transit-Fiesta-Galaxy-Air-Con-Compressor-Pump-PAG-Oil-AC-/121392310996?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c438baad4

WOODWARD395
23rd July, 2014, 11:07 PM
thanks got some today from euro parts 350ml for ?11.40 enough for specified amount 163ml. would of striped down today if my daughter had not booked dads taxi for the night.:driver:

she's lost out tomorrow dads taxi is off the road.:dejection::ridinghorse::bawling:


SP is yapanesse trade..for all other world we use PAG (in 134 sys) closest eqivalent to youre sp10 is PAG ISO 46...you will find PAG oils in only 3 visco..46.. 100 and 150 for you 46 is almost ident. like sp 10..check on ebay ..you dont need to buy whole bootle 0.75lt ...sometime folks sell original in botles like youre quantity 0.16 or 0.25...so worth to check as this could be expensive game..


look here -- Ford Focus Mondeo Transit Fiesta Galaxy Air Con Compressor Pump PAG Oil AC | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Focus-Mondeo-Transit-Fiesta-Galaxy-Air-Con-Compressor-Pump-PAG-Oil-AC-/121392310996?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c438baad4)

WOODWARD395
24th July, 2014, 08:45 PM
Ok striped of compressor today drained oil all crystal clear was only 22ml in the pump rest in the system but pump seems to be working fine off the car stripped of back of compressor and cleaned all parts which were like new and really clean removed the control valve and removed the new one from the box and compared them they sent me the incorrect item that blew my ship out of the water need to use the car so tested the old one putting power through it and it seems to operate but from previous experiences this is no guarantee as it works on a variable voltage.
Had to put the old one back until the new one arrives really pissed put a small amount of gas in until I get the correct new valve. never changed the dryer as want to flush whole system when I get new valve.
so far I have wasted 163ml of oil and a small amount of gas.
I was hoping to of had it done by now had to re-book the man with the van to purge and flush the system as I don't have that equipment and that's not cheap but cheaper than VW who wanted the best part of ?1900 to change the pump and flush the system.
I have been offered a couple of valves they say fit but they look nothing like the one I have.


270071 This is the one I need ?71 from eurocarparts must be able to get it cheaper somewhere.
found one in the states for ?25 but postage brings it to ?32.

Halfords advised me to re-gas the car don't know if I needed to but they also told me the magnetic clutch had gone funny that as MK5 Golfs don't have a magnetic clutch I found out.
I am not using air con have left the control valve disconnected until I get the valve and change the dryer.
should I have put gas in the system as it seems an expensive waste as I was told by Halfords I should do this not sure if they are correct.
The other thing I am not sure of is, I have put new oil in the compressor but left the control valve disconnected does the oil still get pumped around the system if the compressor is not under load, if it does it means there is far too much oil in the system now as it has not been flushed yet and if so is it going to make things worse in the long run.
it may have been cheaper to buy a plane ticket for juniormaxxx and get him to fix it for me.

WOODWARD395
26th July, 2014, 08:12 AM
:wink:I only started this project as I am off work on the sick and was bored out of my head.
if I don't get this working when the valve arrives I am going to cut the ****ing roof off.

juniormaxxx
26th July, 2014, 10:04 AM
you dont need to regas system IF still dont work..only oil is important part..because crankshaft in compresor runs all the time it must be oil-ed....if there is no gas plate is straight and there is no pumping efect inside so dont wory...you can hear litle clicking sond on valve but this only means that electrical part(coil)is fine...dirt is stuff what killing this vale...good news is compresor is clean...so probably will be fine after all this action called AC2014...dont wory its simple task when you have corect parts..

about smalll amount of oil inside...there is oil plug in front of compresor you drained from there?...put right quantity ..close the system and wait corect valve..put all together regased and you are good to go...as you say all is clean there is no need to dismantle condenser and flush all this parts separetly....


dont even try to put it on car without oil....

good luck ...

WOODWARD395
26th July, 2014, 04:53 PM
Great thanks for your reply m8 the oil plug is on the top of mine


270334
went to sanden site they say it takes 163ml so emptied and filled with pag 47 oil. will I still need to change the dryer as so clean oil looked as clean as the replacement oil.


going off topic have you managed to sort your dell tablet out or have you still got problems.

juniormaxxx
26th July, 2014, 10:31 PM
he he he about dell...I have few Vw cars, a lot of french crapy..all they crying for AC repairs.few CAT machines,,.so dont have time to solve myne problems(dellxt) until outside my workshop there is folks with money in hand..I need to take that money, when they leave I will have time to play..

back to vw...yes corect amount is that as you find it...fill it..put old valve yust for keep system closed....dont even think run compresor on car without valve in it...(he always pump a litle)
dryer is for apsorb mouisture from system ...filtering part of this is only sporadic..moisture kill system...in dryer is some amount of stuff like silicagel..with moisutre this stuff will buble and cloged system presure in system raise...when presure raise blowers work on full speed..AC computer lower the presure via (f......) valve and in youre evaporator there is no corect amount of refrigeration ? and youre are stuck with ac looks like presures are OK all work fine but in cabin there is only 28* yust because youre evaporator temperature CANT go lower than 10* and you need 4*....IF you have machine for regas no big deal you can do whenever you want ..but IF you need somebody to make this for you ???this parts are cheap and aviable so no big deal..but also I know a lot of friend in this busines who exchange dryer only when is completly blocked..
myne good practice is whenever you open system for any mainteance exchange the dryer...you will lower the presure and take less energy from crankshaft for turning compresor and blowers...

you say clean oil..it should be clean in front part part of compresor where are bearing crankshaft pistons etc...but IF system is clear then you valve will be still fine..fact is this valve is smalest part in AC so any debris will kill him...few years ago when replacement valve was not aveiable we clean them...using some carb cleaner and signal generator for pulsing...some of them work fine after treatment but most have trouble..

WOODWARD395
27th July, 2014, 04:05 PM
:blue: Is there no easy way of changing the dryer on the mk5 golf I cant even see it its meant to be on the side of the condenser the only way I can see to get to it is to strip off the front of the car is that correct. :dontknow:
VW don't seem to make access easy.:hopelessness:

juniormaxxx
27th July, 2014, 08:23 PM
yep... is bolted on condenser..removing is easy task..also this is good time to clean all crap from condenser,cooler....you will find it easy to remove whole bumper...one hour to complete task..

WOODWARD395
5th August, 2014, 07:30 PM
270071 This is the one I need ?71 from eurocarparts must be able to get it cheaper somewhere.
found one in the states for ?25 but postage brings it to ?32.

Sodding company sent me an email a week later saying they wanted ?6 more before they posted the item out. why wait a bloody week to tell me.

juniormaxxx
5th August, 2014, 08:34 PM
270071 This is the one I need ?71 from eurocarparts must be able to get it cheaper somewhere.
found one in the states for ?25 but postage brings it to ?32.

Sodding company sent me an email a week later saying they wanted ?6 more before they posted the item out. why wait a bloody week to tell me.

71 !! in UK life is expensive stuff...but 71 for vemo aftermarket seems to me like clasic rippof...now I understand why some of youre price are high..what is price for complete compresor in UK?

WOODWARD395
7th August, 2014, 02:39 PM
The compressor I found is ?480 brand new with guarantee but I could get one for approx. ?280 but no guarantee and no returns sure if I kept searching could get the price down more.
Since we joined the E.U Prices have gone up at least 25% more.

WOODWARD395
17th August, 2014, 01:59 PM
:party:HOORAY. Finally arrived today now all I need is for the bloody Manchester rain to stop to replace valve and dryer. :nightmare:

the_riddler
17th August, 2014, 02:41 PM
OMG
by the time this is fixed it will be winter..:joyous: LOL


just having a giggle don't be offended..:top:

WOODWARD395
18th August, 2014, 10:56 AM
Very true m8 think its already here.

juniormaxxx
18th August, 2014, 07:49 PM
never mind...you still need AC to demistified car.....so shall we open tread about webasto heaters on vw ?

WOODWARD395
19th August, 2014, 10:47 PM
definitely could do with that for this winter webasto heaters certainly a good thing for the British weather.

juniormaxxx
20th August, 2014, 08:05 PM
definitely could do with that for this winter webasto heaters certainly a good thing for the British weather.

well..dont know about british weather..but actualy this is realy nice piece of eqipment..imagine cold morning with 15cm of snow on windshield..you actualy go out and sit in refrigerator..but with webasto or eberspacher you can preheat cooling fluid on some 55-60*C in some 15-20 minutes..OK it is some heavy load on batery..but if outside is some-15-20*C and youre engine is about +40*C there is no need for heater plug and car start without them and run fine from first second...so IF you can find some of this machine ..wow it will be big improvments in comfort for you and for youre car..all this story is for water heaters..I prefer them because you heat engine or cabin or both...with airheater you can only heat cabin..
this is perfect time of year to investigate local car junkyard..you can buy webasto cheaply...old mazdas dizel(626 dti) almost all have webasto..one realy easy to instal...
webasto from newest car all is coded to some ecu and they are expensive to rework them to work in any car..

WOODWARD395
20th August, 2014, 10:38 PM
was looking a few years back at an American system the snow was two to three foot deep here and it was freezing all you done was press a remote and it started your car defrosted and heated your interior just using your normal heating system. things have advanced since then but got a lot more complicated.
but winter lately has got a lot milder here in the last few years.

juniormaxxx
6th September, 2014, 07:26 PM
webasto thermotop....

DW - diesel water
BW - petrol water heater

very simple and eficient aditional heater 5kW only 2dcl fuel/hour and about 150W

easy to find on old mazda 626 ...

WOODWARD395
16th September, 2014, 07:08 PM
Finally up and working changed R.C.V and Dryer which was a pig of a job when you have no instructions on how to remove the bumper anyway vacuumed re-gassed at first I thought no joy then hey presto cold air what a job thanks to JUNIORMAXXX

the_riddler
16th September, 2014, 08:52 PM
Finally up and working changed R.C.V and Dryer which was a pig of a job when you have no instructions on how to remove the bumper anyway vacuumed re-gassed at first I thought no joy then hey presto cold air what a job thanks to JUNIORMAXXX
Nice one m8.

Heres a tip on how to remove bumper "Quickly"
Quick Bumper removal (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdHp1lFrnEk)

WOODWARD395
17th September, 2014, 07:39 PM
Nice one m8.

Heres a tip on how to remove bumper "Quickly"
Quick Bumper removal (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdHp1lFrnEk)

Eppic m8 if i done that the car would probbaly break in too and id find out itr was a cdut and shut knowing my luck.

WOODWARD395
17th September, 2014, 07:40 PM
Nice one m8.

Heres a tip on how to remove bumper "Quickly"
Quick Bumper removal (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdHp1lFrnEk)

Eppic m8 if i done that the car would probbaly break in too and id find out itr was a cut and shut knowing my luck.