BMW E60 5er 2003 BIG BIG PROBLEM no terminal 15

[gomarota]

I post here as i dont know what to do more or what can be the problem.


No terminal 15, no dashboard lights, nothing, but i can check ALL modules with ista


The history:


One customer changed engine


after that tried to start the car


they make jump start with other car


NOW:
car now doesnt start
car have no terminal 15
dashboard lights are not active when turn they
when turning the key car does nothing


with ISTA/D i can see all modules green and ican diagnose all, but there are no relevant DTCS


In CAS on actual values, i see terminal 15 0volts all the time


in ista D terminal 30: 13volts
terminal 15 : 0 volts


checked all fuses


changed CAS and still same
Changed SZM (gateway and airbag module too on passenger footwell)


when switch on the key, i cannot see any difference
anyone know what can be problem?




Big thanks

[Tigmaker]

Hi Gomarota,
What engine (diesel? / petrol?) code was originally in car and what engine was it swapped to? Was it exact same year of engine out of exact same model? Was part of engine loom replaced or was it just the bare physical metal engine lump replaced?
As you may know "man made" faults are always the worst to find .....especially when someone before you done the swap / damage!..... it could be as simple as a fuse or relay replaced into wrong fuse/relay holder, or perhaps original relay or blown fuse not replaced (therefore an empty relay/fuse slot now) which would confuse the most competent auto-electrician!
Take absolutely nothing for-granted, the only way to try and sort this out is to have full car electric schematic and with a dc multimeter, very methodically work through each system module, one at a time, checking for missing supplies. Due to dash not responding/lighting, I would focus there first.
Also check for burnout at rear of dash, as I know of one mechanic who used a heavy duty battery booster to restart a reluctant starting bmw and there was a bang and smoke from back of dash consule. That car was written off due to the damage it caused with overvoltage to a lot of control modules. (Its possible that battery booster was set to 24V!!!)
Above is worst scenario .... best to start simple and check ALL fuse and relay locations, then ignition switch .....then onto dashboard supplies etc, etc.
Good luck, you're a brave person taking on such a nightmare as this, but with time, a methodical and logical approach and lots of patience, you will get there eventually.
cheers, Tigmaker.

PS Don't rely on software to tell you what voltages are there or not .... they may be only reporting that voltage present at one measured point. Get your trusty dc digital mulimeter out and prove its present at every terminal!

[nbtechnic]

Hi, on some older model E46 petrol, there is a general electric circuit breaker not far from the driver's seat, which prevents the car from starting.
For new model it is essential to follow the good advice Tigmaker mentioned in the post above, is the way forward, good luck!

[pauld5152]

try disconnect ibs lead in the boot attached to the battery

[dimitar]

start detaching all modules from kl15

cas shuts down kl15 when there is to much curent draw

[gomarota]

thanks bros, solved with tango and new key... strange because i didnt have any message or dtc related with key.