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mancioks
19th July, 2018, 01:37 PM
I wanted to ask, maybe has some experience with portable power supplies? As remapping is more hobby with no garage for the moment i want to be more secured when writing ECU's through OBD port.
I was checking portable jump starters like for example this one:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-ENERGIZER-50805-Li-Polymer-7500mAh-Car-Jump-Starter-w-LED-Display-Case/132704840430?epid=1464600531&hash=item1ee5d32aee:g:hOwAAOSwpoJbCwzY
Maybe somebody has been using or tested similar things. Are they capable to provide power for longer period not just only jump start? For some old Opels with tech2 is needed to sit ~1hour while it writes :/

StevenW
19th July, 2018, 02:20 PM
For what do you want the external powersupply, for the jumpstart, or to power a ECU external on?

mancioks
19th July, 2018, 02:23 PM
For charge battery during writing ECu over OBD.

Samsara
19th July, 2018, 02:33 PM
Hello.
The eBay item is just for starting, not for charge the battery.
Flashing via OBD just need full charged battery, no more.
If you suspect battery, replace it.

StevenW
19th July, 2018, 02:34 PM
Take a battery Charger to Charge you battery. This think is only for jumpstart your car, not to charge it. Take a CTEK Charger or a Fronius Charger to charge your car. when you would like to power on you ecu on the table, just use a stabilized powersupply!

heteromies
19th July, 2018, 04:50 PM
For what do you want the external powersupply, for the jumpstart, or to power a ECU external on?

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heteromies
19th July, 2018, 04:51 PM
For charge battery during writing ECu over OBD.

You need external power supply for that. It need to be about 40A/14V. New cars need about 80A to keep battery life when ignition is ON. Need remember reading and writing can takes 30min each...

Myjector
20th July, 2018, 07:28 AM
You need external power supply for that. It need to be about 40A/14V. New cars need about 80A to keep battery life when ignition is ON. Need remember reading and writing can takes 30min each...

He is wright, you need to look for an stable power supply, that you can put in diagnostic mode.
If you do BMW F series, the voltage can drop fast as they consumue 50A while flashing
I would recommend: Doctor charge 50. (i have 130 @ home)
It can save you an lot of money
I us also 14v and Amps on automatic mode

voltechcar
20th July, 2018, 07:39 AM
if you need cheap buy this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CTSMARTPASS120-BAINTECH-CTEK-SmartPass-120A-On-Board-Power-Management/112845235670?hash=item1a4619a5d6:g:0EEAAOSwGjZamN9 C

If you need professional buy this,I have and works great

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CTMXTS70-BAINTECH-CTEK-MXTS70-12-24V-50A/112845307218?hash=item1a461abd52:g:C4QAAOSwj4lamPV Y

Meat-Head
20th July, 2018, 07:42 AM
If you do BMW F series, the voltage can drop fast as they consumue 50A while flashine


Sheesh how much juice? If diesel sounds like putting glow worms on

if your really desperate, alternator from junk yard and cement mixer engine, make 120amp charger!

Samsara
20th July, 2018, 07:55 AM
New cars need about 80A to keep battery life when ignition is ON. Need remember reading and writing can takes 30min each...


If you do BMW F series, the voltage can drop fast as they consumue 50A while flashing
I would recommend: Doctor charge 50. (i have 130 @ home)
It can save you an lot of money
I us also 14v and Amps on automatic mode

External power supply is useless.
Did you measure it yourself with amperemeter?

I had the same discussion on another forum :


For example a 60 AH car battery https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ampere_hour
Suppose the car's light consume 130W (55+55+5+5+5+5) = 10,8A for 12V.
Suppose the wiper and others electronics (dashboard, ECU, etc) consume 19A.
With lights, wiper and others electronics, the car consume 30A.
As a precaution, let's decide that battery can only deliver half,so 30A for an hour.
One hour for programming an ECU.

Warning about battery problem, plug any power supply then battery shortage ,the power supply will just break for protect itself ,then ECU dead.

Roberto Wrote: (http://mhhauto.com/Thread-Power-suply-when-i-programing-via-obd-kess?pid=1281846#pid1281846)

The Car need by OBD Flash, for example Audi A6 3.0 TDI more than 65A, BMW some models up to 80A and stable Voltage 13,2 - 14,5 V depending on the model...

What would you like to do with UPS?
I can believe it but which one?
Did you measure it yourself with amperemeter?
Anyway, as I mentioned any good car's battery is enough ,if not how it can start the engine? (more than 400A for few seconds)

UPS https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uninterrup...wer_supply (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uninterruptible_power_supply)

Paranoiac mode http://www.mhhauto.com/images/skype/whew.gif : use UPS full charged pluged to live AC ,then plug a 13,8V power supply to UPS ,then detach car's battery to prevent any shortage, then plug the 13,8V power supply to car http://www.mhhauto.com/images/skype/muscle.gif

(06-29-2018 10:02)-Kai- Wrote: (http://mhhauto.com/Thread-Power-suply-when-i-programing-via-obd-kess?pid=1281845#pid1281845)Some micro / eeprom love more than 11.99 Volt for programing.No more than 5V, they are fed through voltage regulators.
Old regulators need 3V for drop out ( 8V input at least for 5V output).
Alsmost modern ECU and others electronics car's modules use low drop regulators (6V at least for 5V output) and use IC's need 3,3V or 2,5V.

konq100
20th July, 2018, 08:03 AM
You can use server PSU. Cheap, stable, effective.

bobolin4o has good DIY project with hight-power server PSU about 155A/13.5V

Myjector
20th July, 2018, 08:05 AM
Useless?? Your wrong mate!
I always use my supply in diagnostic mode with automatic Amp coverage
When you flash new M5, i had one goiing to 90A! and still gives stable 14v (you can choise your voltage)

Samsara
20th July, 2018, 08:43 AM
Useless?? Your wrong mate!
I always use my supply in diagnostic mode with automatic Amp coverage
When you flash new M5, i had one goiing to 90A! and still gives stable 14v (you can choise your voltage)
It's useless and you wrong, i explain why.
Only diesel need high intensity for glowplug but for few seconds.
If you really think a car consume 90A for one hour (90 AH capacity battery) , it's mean that car will be out of order often and need external battery for start, so it's non sense.

Again.
If you afraid about car's battery, just charge it full or replace it, as i mentioned, a battery will be shorted itself and external power supply will break down also.
If you are paranoiac, detach car's battery then plug external power supply with an UPS full charged.

bobolin4o
20th July, 2018, 11:28 AM
You can use server PSU. Cheap, stable, effective.

bobolin4o has good DIY project with hight-power server PSU about 155A/13.5V

Yep...

543371

543372

Meat-Head
20th July, 2018, 01:45 PM
i had one goiing to 90A! )

ON TOPIC/-

if that much gg's drawn them temporally/permently nut and bolt to the battery your charger

clip gets hot, falls off, torches the carpit whilst your on dK.

domtorredo
10th January, 2019, 06:29 PM
He is wright, you need to look for an stable power supply, that you can put in diagnostic mode.
If you do BMW F series, the voltage can drop fast as they consumue 50A while flashing
I would recommend: Doctor charge 50. (i have 130 @ home)
It can save you an lot of money
I us also 14v and Amps on automatic modeNot a bit of overkill 50A
Where you have measured that?
50a at 14v is 700w
Havnt seen 10mm cable going to ecu


Sent from my SM-J600FN using Tapatalk

b44ly
11th January, 2019, 09:27 AM
gysflash 100. has been mentioned before. it has a few modes and diagnostic modes.