RadovanPetkovic
18th November, 2019, 12:30 PM
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I will share my experience with these boards and I think it is not small and will help someone who reads carefully and understands what I was about to say.
I firmly believe that SMD technology is no place in cars, and why? Well, I would compare it as if he had sent a mannequin of a well-dressed man to the mine shaft, even if he only kept books. The main problem is that the board of this board is full of cold solders after 5 to 10 years of operation. In the cabin, temperatures go from -20 to +70 maybe higher. After so many years the solders are not for k ..... Everything you read on the forums is someone's experience that I appreciate and I have been learning so much. But so far I do not know if I replaced one PWM chip and that boards that came after other masters, Mosfet maybe one at the beginning. When you replace the parts as in the forums they recommend, you will solve the soldering problem and you would solve the same if you were to repaint the old parts. How's that? Powerfully parallel 1 ohm resistors when they have a bad solder raise their value, the protection of the PWM oscillator locks the chip because it "sees" the overload (one of the faults, they have a swing ...). When you replace new ones you probably solder the resistors well and have real value ....
The board is designed to protect itself and as soon as it "sees" an irregularity the processor will not turn on the power oscillator. The bottom line is QUALITY to refract almost all or basic (experience gained) elements. Do not use anything except good quality SMD paste and a little tinol after all, wash the entire board well with some detergent (each has its favorites) and rinse with water and then dry Fem or sun. Just like a new board will only work without problems. The biggest check is when the emulator is turned on the board is mechanically twisted and with a wooden stick every SMD element tries to move it. If the board doesn't turn off everything is OK. So you will find bad solders.
I'll tell you what I changed as incorrect and nowhere in the forums. Processor, eprom, zener diode (housing as smd transistor), Fet pair that gives oscillations to the display, displays, driver integral for small display, 5v stabilizer and NPN transistor to that stabilizer. I didn't even change the capacitors as some recommend. Every element when you suspect a spell is removed and examined if it is correct there is no need to change it. So you have to have the experience and the tools and just listening and changing the recommended parts is not professional. Because every board is a story unto itself.
When you are in front of a table full of cakes and cakes, do you think they are the best cake that anyone will recommend, or will you try everything and decide for yourself what is the most delicious?
Remark. The blue voltages at the control points are when the board is off and energized
The red voltages at checkpoints are when the board is turned on by the emulator
P.S: The blower will not solder well the parts (from my experience at least) while soldering and trapping each SMD resistor as soon as it is moved in the first seconds of soldering with a cold or invisible microscope. I only use the blower to remove the SMD elements and when the chip is well soldered to re-thread the pins for a "safer solder" and blow the paste under the chip. So far, I have not solved a single one with the blower.
I will share my experience with these boards and I think it is not small and will help someone who reads carefully and understands what I was about to say.
I firmly believe that SMD technology is no place in cars, and why? Well, I would compare it as if he had sent a mannequin of a well-dressed man to the mine shaft, even if he only kept books. The main problem is that the board of this board is full of cold solders after 5 to 10 years of operation. In the cabin, temperatures go from -20 to +70 maybe higher. After so many years the solders are not for k ..... Everything you read on the forums is someone's experience that I appreciate and I have been learning so much. But so far I do not know if I replaced one PWM chip and that boards that came after other masters, Mosfet maybe one at the beginning. When you replace the parts as in the forums they recommend, you will solve the soldering problem and you would solve the same if you were to repaint the old parts. How's that? Powerfully parallel 1 ohm resistors when they have a bad solder raise their value, the protection of the PWM oscillator locks the chip because it "sees" the overload (one of the faults, they have a swing ...). When you replace new ones you probably solder the resistors well and have real value ....
The board is designed to protect itself and as soon as it "sees" an irregularity the processor will not turn on the power oscillator. The bottom line is QUALITY to refract almost all or basic (experience gained) elements. Do not use anything except good quality SMD paste and a little tinol after all, wash the entire board well with some detergent (each has its favorites) and rinse with water and then dry Fem or sun. Just like a new board will only work without problems. The biggest check is when the emulator is turned on the board is mechanically twisted and with a wooden stick every SMD element tries to move it. If the board doesn't turn off everything is OK. So you will find bad solders.
I'll tell you what I changed as incorrect and nowhere in the forums. Processor, eprom, zener diode (housing as smd transistor), Fet pair that gives oscillations to the display, displays, driver integral for small display, 5v stabilizer and NPN transistor to that stabilizer. I didn't even change the capacitors as some recommend. Every element when you suspect a spell is removed and examined if it is correct there is no need to change it. So you have to have the experience and the tools and just listening and changing the recommended parts is not professional. Because every board is a story unto itself.
When you are in front of a table full of cakes and cakes, do you think they are the best cake that anyone will recommend, or will you try everything and decide for yourself what is the most delicious?
Remark. The blue voltages at the control points are when the board is off and energized
The red voltages at checkpoints are when the board is turned on by the emulator
P.S: The blower will not solder well the parts (from my experience at least) while soldering and trapping each SMD resistor as soon as it is moved in the first seconds of soldering with a cold or invisible microscope. I only use the blower to remove the SMD elements and when the chip is well soldered to re-thread the pins for a "safer solder" and blow the paste under the chip. So far, I have not solved a single one with the blower.