2004 Renault Kangoo key code help

[Jimmy07]

Could someone help with this code I got from a broker instacode doesn’t recognise the code for Renault ?

Reg: HJZ 9270
Vin: VF1FC07AF31763302

Code I got: 4321204

Thank in advance 👍🏻

[damih]

Could someone help with this code I got from a broker instacode doesn’t recognise the code for Renault ?

Reg: HJZ 9270
Vin: VF1FC07AF31763302

Code I got: 4321204

Thank in advance 


Hello here 125331

[Jimmy07]

Damih

Thank you very much. Doing this job tomorrow morning you have helped me out big time.

If I can return the favour just ask 👍🏻👌

[rapidlocksmiths]

normally with the VAC102 the code you will get from dealer has 8 digits , you drop the last 2 digits and the direct cuts are the 1st 6 digits .

but your code is only 7 digits , as the value 0 is not a valid digit if following this normal code rule , then its possible the 1st digit is the one missing , instacode throws up 3 possibles which are , 143212 , 343212 , 543212 .

another option is the vac102 lishi tool , it wont pick and decode the door lock , but it will pick and decode the fuel cap and the ignition lock.

[lion0304]

Just do a Kangoo 2005 AKL, pick and decode igntion lock 30s. Kangoo alway VAC102.

[sdnatlst]

So we can't pick open a kangoo vac102 with lishi?

[lion0304]

Sure i pick and decode with Lishi, but customer bring the lock

[Jimmy07]

Thanks everyone

I have asked broker to check the code as definitely doesn’t look like a valid code. I don’t have a Lishi for this lock but don’t particularly want to buy one as it’s limited to a couple of older models and would probably sit in toolbox for a year before I’d use it again

[damih]

For me i open door and decode ignition lock with lishi va102 never any problem

[damih]

So we can't pick open a kangoo vac102 with lishi?

yes you can but as Rapid sad the code don't correspond must decode ignition lock

[rapidlocksmiths]

Thanks everyone

I have asked broker to check the code as definitely doesn’t look like a valid code. I don’t have a Lishi for this lock but don’t particularly want to buy one as it’s limited to a couple of older models and would probably sit in toolbox for a year before I’d use it again

codes are normally 8 digit as i said , you normally drop the last 2 digits , the 1st 6 are the direct cuts , so as 0 isnt a valid cut on yours it looks like the 1st digit may be missing , if so instacode says for rest of bitting it will be a 1 , 3 or 5 in position 1 , though you could cut 1 in position 1 on 1st key , then 2 , then 3 then 4 then 5 , if rest of bitting is correct then you will get your key using 1 blade. but see what broker says. but thats assuming its the 1st digit and not one of the other digits missed off , this is where having a lishi removes the doubt , also no code needed and if locks changed job still gets done.

excluding some old models , you do see vac102 on kangoo and twingo models up to 2008 , you say its not worth having the lishi , when you consider what a code costs or that one that has had the ignition changed and code is wrong , how long does this tool take to pay back , 1 or 2 jobs at most , no code costs and quick simple job and may just be the difference between getting paid or not.

failing this pull a lock and strip it down and hope all locks on same key .

[Jimmy07]

Broker back with new code

43212104

So it should be 432121 ?

[rapidlocksmiths]

yes , drop the last 2 digits , so direct cuts of " 432121 " as long as vehicle hasnt had a lock change on door or ignition otherwise you will wish you had that lishi .

this is just another example of knowing that boring time consuming basic key and series knowledge , if this was known you would have known a 7 digit code was wrong straight away , and gone straight back to broker , even with an 8 digit code you wouldnt have got very far with instacode if not knowing its direct cuts and which ones , but had you known that you drop the last 2 digits and the 1st 6 are the direct cuts then job would be done. i know i bang on about learning the basic foundations , but it can be crucial , like with a lishi , you may not use it every day but you are glad its there when its needed , im honestly shocked that these basics are no longer well known by those trading , i couldnt work without them .

[Jimmy07]

Hi Rapid

Thanks for info

I don’t think I’m doing too bad for the length of time I’m going. Can lishi most locks and have put in hundreds of hours at the auction bettering myself and still go when I’m quiet like tommorrow 2 jobs on them go to auction with Mercedes Lishi.

I have a friend at this game for years and didn’t know the door lock wouldn’t pick and thought his pick was distorted or a manufacturing mistake. He walked away from 2-3 of these in the past.

I did query the code that’s why I posted on here and contacted the broker. I knew code wasn’t right and asked if someone could calc code from vin. Your 100% correct aim to have full Lishi range but this one is towards the bottom of the list as others offer better range of vehicles so it’s about prioritising which order to buy them in.

[rapidlocksmiths]

ive found it doesnt matter how many years someones been in the game , if the basics are missing they are missing , each to own , ive just always believed in building up from solid foundations rather than working up and down from the middle or starting from top and trying to work backwards , must be the dinosaur in me as i believe in firm foundations to build upon , an outdated and unpopular view i know as a tedious subject matter to learn and learning isnt earning .

theres rarely a need to walk away , we was opening these long before lishi came along , always other methods of entry to consider and use , to walk and accept defeat is the worst feeling in world for any of us.

VAC102 although only having 6 key cuts , there is a 7th wafer in the later door lock and a 7th cut also , this is a generic number 1 cut , its only purpose is in the operation of the clutch , you may have noticed when you cut the key that there is an extra 1 cut at the tip , the good cut to code machines know to add this additional cut at the tip of the key as generic , the sole purpose of this is to disengage the clutch unit so the lock can open , without this 1 cut at the tip the lock will not open even with the correct cut key in the key cut positions , in fact it used to be a common call out , key just spinning in the lock and door not opening especially on vehicles without remote entry , all due to wear on this 7th cut not disarming the clutch unit , so a bit of wear used to cause issue , good for us as meant a job to cut a new key blade to fix the issue. its a well thought out design of clutch unit that if reintroduced on modern locks would thwart lishi tools getting quick entry .

though on this lock they didnt stop at just a clutch unit , they also fitted a side bar that prevents the wafers from binding even if the clutch is disengaged , not all door locks had this , but most vac102 did , another design feature that when working as can be non working , if they reintroduced it improved to modern locks would also make jobs far more interesting and force us to work harder for our corn .

luckily for us , this clutch unit and sidebar is only on the majority of door locks , its not on the ignition and its not on the locking fuel cap and on these the lishi works very well , distributors could make it clearer what a tool can and cant do , but i guess its not their remit to educate us their only role is to sell product. though it wasnt that long ago that no lock pick came with instructions at all and there were no how to guides and no videos , the good old days.

id love to see such clever devices reintroduced to modern locks as new generations should be more secure and not less secure luckily for us locks went backwards on whole , but cost cutting being what it is today in manufacture the bean counters dont like them , id fit both to a lock with a few other tricks if i could redesign a modern vehicle lock , it would certainly increase security of the lock and thwart easy entry .

its ironic that the technology already exists to make vehicle locks far more secure by simply revisiting the past , ironic that more modern means less secure , sticking an FO19 on doors again would certainly cause many problems , but alas the little extra that this costs to produce prevents it at present . at a time where lock security has been so openly compromised on the internet , open forums and youtube giving wrong doers an easily accessed classroom that they havnt moved to make things more secure.

manufactures keep putting small hurdles in to try and slow entry down with sunken locks , spacers , locks behind handles inverted wafers and side facing wafers as cheap fixes to hamper quick entry , all pretty much pointless as over the years locksmiths have learnt how to overcome such hurdles , where as reinstalling some old designs would simply achieve this , id love to work on such projects with vehicle lock manufaturers , maybe a retirement project , ive spent so many years working on methods of entry to beat house and vehicle locks , it would be a challenge and fun to work on the other side of the fence , poacher to gamekeeper .

this modern trade is no place for us old dinosaurs these days , im ready for the sun and a sunbed and go out to pasture to wither away .

[Jimmy07]

I’ll look out for this 1 cut when cutting this the job was put back until the morning so be interesting to see if A9 picks it up

Bloody strange to put this effort in designing a lock for what at the end of the day is a shitty van when you can grab a HU92 and get into a BMW without too much effort ?

Maybe your right it’s now a case of penny pinching by car manufacturers or maybe a case of they actually want high end cars easier to steal so the wheel turns again ie one car stolen = another one made and sold ?

Just look at keyless entry Range Rover etc

A classic case was 2 cars I had stolen years ago a Vauxhall Nova GTE and a few years later a Ford XR2. The XR2 as an example had a one pin steering lock where a standard Fiesta had 3 making the standard fiesta almost impossible to steal by way of breaking the steering lock but the XR2 was a case of turn the steering wheel sharp left then right and bam ready to go. A mechanic showed me this in a scrapyard a few weeks after mine was lifted and I was gobsmacked. No one is going to steal a standard 1.1 Fiesta are they so why so much effort to secure them and not the XR2 ?

Clever way to produce more vehicles ££

As for the Lishi yes it’s basic foundation work but so is learning key cutting, programmers, transponder types, KD, Keytools, the list is endless. I agree it is a skill that should be learnt by anyone doing this job but I can’t sit around picking and learning locks for a year or two unfortunately. I will crack most in the coming years and can use the common range to a decent standard.

I genuinely do enjoy a day at the auction with a handful of picks with no pressure so it’s not a chore it’s an easy, interesting way to learn a new tool/ method.

As for this lock I could nearly put money on it that a lot of men don’t know the door lock can’t be picked but fuel cap can and about the number 1 cut activates the clutch release. Some things take time and experience to learn usually through trial and error and a bit of head scratching.

Advice from veterans is a fantastic shortcut and can be priceless but at the day Rome wasn’t built in a day......,

I will keep pushing and usually buy a pick every time I put a key order together or buy a new programmer. For example bought the Ford module for TDB1000 but a few weeks prior to doing so I bought the full range of Ford picks and spend hours in the auction picking first before buying the software. It’s just the way I do it rather than have loads of picks I learn one range of Lishi and pair it to software. Bought the VVDI MB and Merc lishi so it’s back to the auction to crack the locks before throwing myself knackers deep at the software

[rapidlocksmiths]

its the i dont have time to do this first that i find hard to understand , back in the day pre internet this wasnt an option open to us , like i say dinosaur , ways have changed and moved on , i have not , and unlikely to this close to hanging up my picks .

i also find the fact that many dont know about the clutch and sidebar in the vac102 odd , i did a full guide on this lock and tool for lishi , it was published in several trade magazines , on several closed forums and was a free download on tradelocks site for a long while and probably still in the magazine archives online , so its not as if the info isnt out there and readily available already , in fact im surprised no one has downloaded it and shared it as seems to be the norm in open enviroments as a worthless give away , and of course as a trading locksmith its my job to know these things so i make sure i do , i just presumed everyone was the same , obviously not.

i also dont understand the " why put so much effort into a lock for a shitty old van when you can grab an hu92 and pop it open " it wasnt a shitty old van when new , and there is a huge difference between a van and a car , with a car they dont want to break in to steal tools as most people dont leave items of value in a car due to clear site through windows , a van will have often contained a tradesmans tools and livlyhood in the back of it , so a better lock that thwarts quick entry offers more security to the contents in the back , maybe this is why they went to so much effort on this lock , who knows , but i bet alot of ford and other van users wish their manufacturer had done more to protect easy entry to their vehicle.
all vehicles were once new , so what you may class as a shitty old van now was and no doubt still is a key factor and a tradesmans living and contain his tools and stock . surely more effort should be put into securing entry to a van than to a car , as most breaking into vans have no interest in stealing the van , just its contents , someone breaking into a bmw is more interested in the car than the contents so the transponder system is more crucial than entry on your bmw , where as with a van preventing easy entry should be the important factor. especially as so much info and you tube videos posted on how to get into these easily.

im set in my ways , i work slightly differently , i start by buying a lockset , stripping it , examining it for intolerances,weaknesses and potential failure issues , rebuilding it and reading up on the series , then explore the various methods of entry that are effective , then a day in a friendly dealers yard to test findings and theories.

it wont be long before theres not many veterans left with old skills , certainly wont be long before they cease posting assistance , old school methods are a dying art of little interest to the new starts , and who can blame them as takes time effort and money and can be boring and time consuming , these days its buy a tool , ask some questions and press some buttons and try to earn from day 1 by cutting prices , trouble is rather than make trade better it is killing it for all as rates in your area seem to show , i guess this is partly the fault of all of us that have shared over the years.

like i said , im done , ive done my bit to help or some may view it as feed the decline though ive never and never will post entry videos online as thats plain reckless , time to wind down from forums and groups and step away as pointless energy , iv shared my last lock and key rule and wont be doing any new guides in future after recent events , and will be winding down on tool development to concentrate on lock projects , a more relaxed path concentrating on securing rather than defeating , new challenges will i hope freshen things up.

[Jimmy07]

Holy shit Rapid are you having a bad day lol

I understand your frustration at information that was shared without prior consent but a lot of guys on here owe you a lot and to pull the choker would be a real shame.

Yes totally agree there’s a lot of new starts just want to plug and play from day one but I can assure you I’m not one of them. I constantly read and the likes of even spare key jobs I’ll Lishi quite a few because it’s there and to keep me in practice.

Yes hands up I do take advantage of new tools-methods-technology it would be crazy not to after all you don’t get up to turn over the TV when you have a remote in your hand but yes I’m moving into lock stripping, eprom, system study all that but it does take time not a case of I haven’t time or just can’t be arsed.

One thing I do know is learning on site as you go can have its advantages if your standing in the sleet and the wind howling fighting a lock you’ll not forget it and will make you more determined to crack a similar one the next time

[rapidlocksmiths]

i do indeed have a remote control for my tv , but i also know how to get up and operate it manually should the remote control fail as wouldnt want to be sat staring at a blank screen, if this fails too il turn to my radio , if this fails i guess id talk to or go for a walk with my wife , its always wise to have a plan B and C before having to result to the walk of pain.

no one owes me or anyone else anything in this world , and frustration is forgotten once you make changes to reduce or eradicate the causes.