View Full Version : Gt10 lishi decoding
Ecuprog31
28th December, 2020, 09:41 PM
Hi all
ive picked lock of iveco 2008 year with 7 cut
But ive problem with decoding
ive cut 3 blade all fail
what is the secret of gt10 ?
thanks
Manta1600
28th December, 2020, 10:07 PM
No secret there is 2 scale with very close readings try to find the right one and check on insta is this bittong is OK
rapidlocksmiths
29th December, 2020, 11:34 AM
the tool has 2 grids on it , one grid is for IC card 322 the other is for IC card 379 , there is a 3rd on ic card 197 which is same data as ic card 322 , so you need to know what lock version you have in front of you , it will be either the 6 cut ic card 322 or the 7 cut ic card 379 , the spacing differs on each .
so its important to feel the wafers to determine if you have the 6 cut luck or the 7 cut lock and use the respective spacing lines on the tool to get your decode , once you have your decode it is essential you choose the correct cutting card for the lock you have .
most old iveco ive done on your year have been the 6 cut lock on ic card 322 , however you could have either lock so counting the wafers by feeling each sprung wafer with the lishi tool will confirm which you have and confirm what grid and what cutting card you need .
with the tool you decode on the correct grid in the same direction as you picked with lock in picked open position.
when you pick the lock , mentally make a note of which positions you didnt need to pick to open the lock , as you know these positions must be a 4 cut , so read these positions first as you know they must read as a 4 cut , this will tell you how accurate your tool is reading the lock , if just past the line or just before the line then it allows you to compensate to get correct readings on the other positions
rob h
29th December, 2020, 12:00 PM
I am working on one, akl.
I can pick, and open and decode the doorlock.
The key i made, works perfect on the door. 7 wavers in the door.
Then i tried it on the ign lock, and that is not turning.
Owners states, that there whas only one remote key, that fitted all the locks.
Then i inserted the lishi in the ign. I could not pick it at the limited time i took.
However, with a litlle bit of tension, the lishi gave me a decoding preview, and it appears to match the door code.
These lock brake easily, and the shortes pins, tumble in the ign innercore. Due to play, they developp from key in and out movements.
Also, from using the wrong key, and applying force to turn the ignition.
I will revisit this car, and try the lishi ones more on the ign.
If that fails, i will remove it, and take it apart, to match it to the door key.
Using the 4 cut, to compare the accuracy, that is a good tip, thank you!
I always hope to have a lock, that uses all height ranges, so i can determin for instant 1 = 0,8 and 4= 3.8
rapidlocksmiths
29th December, 2020, 01:31 PM
its fairly common for old locks and plugs to wear more so on edge keys , a worn lock can always give miss reads between 2 lines , also heavier handed uses can distort tip on some tools which will miss read , and some are more hevy handed on the lifter than they need to be decoding .
thus plotting the position of the 4 cuts is simple as you didnt need to pick them so know where they are , how the tool reads these will in most cases how the other positions will read too . with minimal practice you can decode alot of locks in your head as you pick them , for instance the positions that dont need picking you know are 4s , any that require just a nick to pick will be 3s , and 1s pick very high normally , so this too can help when decoding a worn lock , interpreting what you felt when picking.
locks that have key rules like a set cut in set position can also help you calibrate the tool , some worn keyways and plugs can be a sloppy fit for the tool , so its essential to insure your tool is seated square in the lock , as a slight angle is all thats needed to miss read
Ecuprog31
29th December, 2020, 09:39 PM
The fourth blade was success
p1et
17th July, 2024, 02:20 PM
Hi,
I need to cut blade for Iveco Daily 2008, its all keys lost. I decoded ignition but not sure how to cut it.
Instacode list card No. 437 which is 6 cut. But if I enter card 437 in Silca Viper, it is for 7 cuts so Im really confused what to do now.
I decoded as 324313 but spacing between 6 and 7 cut version is totally different so surely I cant just cut it like 1324313 or 3243131 (add No. 1 cut as 1st ot last cut)
My ignition lock must be 6 cut version because no feeling at wafer mark No. 1. I pick from 2 to 7 but how to cut it?
Manta1600
17th July, 2024, 02:39 PM
Hi,
I need to cut blade for Iveco Daily 2008, its all keys lost. I decoded ignition but not sure how to cut it.
Instacode list card No. 437 which is 6 cut. But if I enter card 437 in Silca Viper, it is for 7 cuts so Im really confused what to do now.
I decoded as 324313 but spacing between 6 and 7 cut version is totally different so surely I cant just cut it like 1324313 or 3243131 (add No. 1 cut as 1st ot last cut)
My ignition lock must be 6 cut version because no feeling at wafer mark No. 1. I pick from 2 to 7 but how to cut it?
As Rapid wrote cut it on card 322
p1et
17th July, 2024, 02:52 PM
As Rapid wrote cut it on card 322
But I need Silca card not IC card.
Also I have fuel cap and I can pick and decode but somehow decoding seems different than I got from ignition lock. Customer claims that there was 1 key for all locks but I dont believe it 100%. But what I want to say is in fuel cap I pick position from 1 to 6 but in ignition lock from 2 to 7, why is that? Im even more confused now
p1et
17th July, 2024, 04:19 PM
Kurwa its working, 1st try lol 134313 were the cuts, I sit and analyzed this for a long time And decided this is the most correct one decoding I can get. A little bit mystery still whoch card use but I just tried that 437 card and I entered all cuts from 1 to 6 (7th left empty) and tried. I was 90% sure it will not work but its working perfect lol
p1et
17th July, 2024, 04:54 PM
Hmm okay its a strange thing but I decoded fuel cap differently as 434313 and its working in both fuel cap and ignition lock. But cut 134313 work also in ignition lock (but does not in fuel cap). Maybe I need 7 key cut? If Yes how to do it? I have only fuel cap and ignition lock (and BSI) which I took from the car this morning. now need to program transponder and I would like to go back tomorrow with 100% correct key. I have a key which works in both ignition lock and fuel cap so it should work in door lock however dont want to be surprised
rob h
17th July, 2024, 05:34 PM
Be aware, off the blade overall lenght!
You might have the correct code.
But the tip, will hit the ignition lock bottom.
Some aftermarket keys, need to be shortened.
p1et
17th July, 2024, 05:42 PM
Ok the most important is its working in ignition lock and fuel cap so they will be able to start a car and refuel it :D. If need rework for door lock then no hurry, most important done
rapidlocksmiths
17th July, 2024, 11:27 PM
P1et
it can be a bit confusing , ic card 322 is silca card 437 , however ic card 322 has a 6 and a 7 cut version , on this one the 6 cut lock doesnt have a cut in position 7 at the tip , positions 1 to 6 are exact same depth and spacing , the 7 cut lock has an extra cut at tip end in position 7 , yu can do as you did and leave it blank or cut it same as cut 6 and it will work.
ic card 379 is the one that differs on its spacing which is silca card 283, for this one you need the correct cutting card to cut a good key.
lion0304
18th July, 2024, 01:36 AM
On my X6, even with right code alway failed for daily.
So i've changed cuter to 1.5mm that work well.
p1et
18th July, 2024, 10:15 AM
On my X6, even with right code alway failed for daily.
So i've changed cuter to 1.5mm that work well.
I use Unocode 299, it the best machine to cut standard one or double sided standard keys because it use wheel cutter (idk jow to call it)
rapidlocksmiths
18th July, 2024, 04:29 PM
ive just done a 2010 iveco daily , GT10 , was ic card 322 , 7 cut .
on this one the 7th cut was a 1. i cut a blade on 6 cut card to see difference , key worked in ignition but not in door , 7 cut perfect in all locks .
when you only have 6 cuts just use same blank , cut the 7th cut as a 1 , then a 2 and so on.
p1et
18th July, 2024, 08:48 PM
The key which I cut work perfectly in all locks - door lock, ignirion and fuel cap.
However I have problem I had never encountee before and wpuld never expect to happen.
So what I did was remove BSI, read 95320 eeprom, program new ID48 transponder and write back modified eeprom to BSI.
However after I connected BSI, nothing works and some BSI relay is clicking. I reconnected every connector 3 times, same issue. The weirdest thing is, when I disconnect main power plug from BSI, it still clicks... What is going on?? When I turn key to ignition ON position there is nothing but relay is clicking Foster and check engine light apprars and disappears
I double checked eeprom location, I soldered it proper way and it's perfectly soldered, you would have a problem to tell which picture is before and after.
I am so fcking unlucky. That is obly cherry on top.
rapidlocksmiths
19th July, 2024, 09:37 AM
saw this on other thread , i do these via obd with abrites , never failed me yet , i believe autel , zedfull and smart pro will also do these obd.
rokibar
19th July, 2024, 10:50 AM
The key which I cut work perfectly in all locks - door lock, ignirion and fuel cap.
However I have problem I had never encountee before and wpuld never expect to happen.
So what I did was remove BSI, read 95320 eeprom, program new ID48 transponder and write back modified eeprom to BSI.
However after I connected BSI, nothing works and some BSI relay is clicking. I reconnected every connector 3 times, same issue. The weirdest thing is, when I disconnect main power plug from BSI, it still clicks... What is going on?? When I turn key to ignition ON position there is nothing but relay is clicking Foster and check engine light apprars and disappears
I double checked eeprom location, I soldered it proper way and it's perfectly soldered, you would have a problem to tell which picture is before and after.
I am so fcking unlucky. That is obly cherry on top.
It can be very small soldering ball at some place. Check carefully.
p1et
19th July, 2024, 02:23 PM
Soldering is not and never was an issue. On picture is how it looked after my work and then I desoldered it once again to see surface.
I think eeprom is corrupted but how is that suppose to happen IDK. I always used Xprog, even found back in 2021 I was working also with Iveco 95320 and I have titled .bin files XXX_key1_write back so surely it was working. Honestly have no idea. Advanced Code accepted file so if it's messed up why would it. But OK, it;s not the factor. File might not be totally correct but it will let you see PIN, keys etc. However strange.
What I am gonna do is write fixed eeprom by some member here in this or other thread I started and see. If this won't help, I will write this 95320 from 2021 year which was 100% correct. If BSI wake up, I will know and if that happen the last solution will be to make IMMO OFF somehow but Im totally not into it so will also need help with this.
lion0304
21st July, 2024, 11:38 AM
I never use XProg to read eeprom, because i test and compare 1 time with file read from TL886, O5, UPA, it's diffrent.
For eeprom, TL886 and 05 are tools i use. Never mess any until now and cross my fingers.
p1et
21st July, 2024, 02:35 PM
I used it past 10 years and never ever had a problem with incorrect reading.
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