View Full Version : Ford Puma 1.7 crankshaft locking pin
bogman
23rd January, 2010, 04:33 PM
Can anyone tell me where on the block the crankshaft locking pin goes ?
smirnoff_rules
23rd January, 2010, 04:37 PM
back of the engine at the bottom pully end
bogman
23rd January, 2010, 06:26 PM
Brilliant. Many thanks from a fellow Brummie.
bogman
23rd January, 2010, 06:52 PM
I'm finding the pin stops the crank slightly before TDC (according to a rod inserted via plug hole). Is this normal/correct or should it stop at exactly TDC ?
ziggystardust
24th January, 2010, 06:19 AM
a white pencil and do marks on the cambelt and the wheels for the belt
bogman
24th January, 2010, 12:00 PM
a white pencil and do marks on the cambelt and the wheels for the belt
Thanks for your advice, but it doesn't really answer my question about TDC. The old belt is off and I'm about to fit a new one.
smirnoff_rules
24th January, 2010, 12:37 PM
l have made a small video of the autodata install .. it does say tdc . if the belt is ok u would of got the camshaft locking rod in so it must of been top dead ? and remember the front cam pully moves as its vvt engine and u have to move clock wise till it stops .
play with windows media player
bogman
24th January, 2010, 04:10 PM
Thanks again smirnoff. I've read & re-read the manual extract. In 'removal' 8 and 'assembly' 3 its says "turn the crank until it stops against the pin. Check crankshaft is at TDC on No. 1 cylinder." It does not say "close to TDC or roughly TDC". Am I just being pedantic ? I was under the impression that the whole idea of locking tools and non-keyed pulleys was to faciltate foolproof cam timing and belt tensioning. In the absence of further insight I think I'll re-assemble as per manual and ignore the fact the crank is not exactly at TDC. Unfortunately I was unaware that crank pulley was not keyed until too late, so I cannot backtrack.
rob321
24th January, 2010, 11:11 PM
I replaced the cam belt on my ford focus recently and like you wanted to be exact, there was some slight crankshaft inaccuracy when the pin was inserted and guess what?
The belt was factory fitted from new nearly a full tooth out!
A LITTLE degree of inaccuracy may be normal.
Rob.
pablo1971
24th January, 2010, 11:39 PM
im sure there is 2 holes on the crank,,,,wen you fit the locking pin if it is out,try 2 find another fitting,,,im sure there is 2 holes and one isnt topdead,,,,,and another thing,,,,wen you do the belt there all floating pulleys,ie,no locking,make very sure you tighten the crank F.....T.....
AS THIS THE CRANK BOLT WILL COME LOOSE,it happened to me and i had to remove the head and change a few valves........hope this helps
pavel bozhilov
8th April, 2010, 10:49 PM
Can someone tell me where is the crankshaft locking pin on puma 1.7 zetec enjine.tanks
smirnoff_rules
8th April, 2010, 10:52 PM
Can someone tell me where is the crankshaft locking pin on puma 1.7 zetec enjine.tanks
read the thread ????!!!
nutloose
9th April, 2010, 11:46 PM
a white pencil and do marks on the cambelt and the wheels for the belt
If there are no keys and you have to remove at least one pulley why would you bother?
Meat-Head
10th April, 2010, 09:17 AM
If there are no keys and you have to remove at least one pulley why would you bother?
there was an article in a 'classics' mag, that was saying, 'cut old belt of where it is, loosen tenshioner, slip new belt on, tigheren tenshioner, away
nutloose
11th April, 2010, 02:25 AM
I seem to remember that on the 1.7 puma lump you have to remove the front pulley bolt (VERY tight) to allow access to the belt cover over the crank sprocket which has no key.
So you cant remove the belt without losing the crank position unless you remove the starter and scribe a line on the ring gear first.
So why not just use the timing tools?
you at least know that its right when you finish with it
Meat-Head
11th April, 2010, 08:55 AM
you have to remove the front pulley bolt (VERY tight)
So tight it makes a used car sales man look genorous.
M-H-M had some Shitroen cam-belt job we didn't want (Don't do cam-belts. Scratches,(Supplied and fitted) puntures(supply only), cracked windscreens(free), rev limiter testing etc, but not cam belts)
Was unable to remove the "motor-starter" as some 'tant called it
to jamb the crank up, so underneath was a shit-shield, with 3 bolts, welded a m6 bolt to a repair washer and used one of the bolts to hold it in place, just went between to teeth of the starter motor
THIS IMAGE IS NOT OWNED BY M-H-M OR IT'S SUBSIDJRIRES
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g97/stealthmk1/P1010855.jpg
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