Problem using Xprog to read FRM3 module - possible to verify module/xprog install

[shitface41]

Hey all.

Attempting to repair a non-responding FRM3 module from an e87. Seems like typical problem of getting corrupted from a low battery, but having problems.

I had problems at first getting the ground cable to solder to the ground pad on the back of the module, it just wouldn't stick. I've since scratched at it a bit, wiped with alcohol and heated it directly a little with the soldering iron. It still doesn't stick that great but I've read a 5v on it going back to ground when powered through the 5v from the xprog so I assume the connection is good.

My problem is I just can't get Xprog to read the thing. And I don't get consistent errors either. But because I had issues soldering the ground pin and I'm not knowledgeable enough about this stuff, I don't know if I've somehow fried the chip, done a bad install of xprog, or if the clone itself is bad.

Xprog box appears to be functional. 5v comes out the 5v, 5v comes back along the ground. There's some voltage on the reset and bkgrnd pins that fluctuates when it sometimes attempts to read.

So, is there any way to verify if the chip is functional or fried, or to verify the xprog box itself? I don't have a lot of tools. I've got a rPi, an arduino, simple multimeter. I've used AVRdude to reflash the atmega on the arduino so I'm very novice but have a tiny bit of understanding.

Any advice gratefully received as I'm sitting here with loads of pcbs and wires that need to either go back where they should be or set fire to in a rage.

[mexanico1971]

Get other P-flash and so on , and flash it on yours
The use Winkfip or Ista-p

[shitface41]

Well, an update for anyone who encounters any similar issues with Xprog.

So I was getting inconsistent error messages before, but all a variation of 'Device is Silent' when using the BDM adapter. Voltages seemed good coming from the pins on it so assumed it was my soldering or I fried the chip or done a bad install.

Resoldered everything again. Checked it under a magnifying glass this time to make absolutely sure it wasn't touching any other tracks. Used a multimeter to attempt to see if there was continuity to any other points on the board there shouldn't be. Everything was definitely soldered as correctly as a novice can do. Still 'Device is Silent'.

Then I changed the USB cable. Now I get an error message saying the chip id isn't recognised and it keeps reading a different chip id. So it looks like it's the xprog or the bdm adapter that's faulty. My novice electronic knowledge makes me think this is a faulty capacitor or bad connection to a capacitor. Is there a better board on here to post looking for electronic help? Specifically how to troubleshoot components on a PCB?


Get other P-flash and so on , and flash it on yours
The use Winkfip or Ista-p

Appreciate the reply buddy, but I still have the same problem with a bad connection to the chip. Can't read or flash so having the files to flash won't help me in this situation :shrug:

[shitface41]

Just a final update for anyone else who runs into similar issues with Xprog clones.

In my case 'Device is silent' errors were to do with a faulty Xprog box. During troubleshooting though I recognised some other things that could help others with similar errors.

USB cable: The cable that came with mine produced 'Device is Silent' errors which meant it couldn't communicate with the chip (A freecom one from an FRM3 module in my case). Replacing the cable gave different errors but these all came from garbled comms with the chip rather than no comms. So a quick first step would be to change USB cable for a higher quality one that you might have lying around (eg from a decent printer or whatever).

Driver/Port settings: The FTDI chip in the Xprogs works better with a latency of 1ms instead of the standard 16ms which is set as default when the drivers are installed. To change these settings search for 'Device Manager'. In Device Manager look for a heading titled 'Ports' or something similar. Expand it and there should be an entry relating to the Xprog. Double click it to open the properties window, Select the 'Port Settings' tab, then click advanced. There is a setting there to adjust. 1ms seems to be the accepted best result. There is more information here about how and why for anyone with a better understand than me (https://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Knowledgebase/index.html?an232beffectbuffsizeandlatency.htm).

If you're still getting 'Device is Silent' or generally inconsistent errors when trying to read after the above steps, it's highly likely you've got a dud xprog box. Do make sure of course that your solder is solid, hasn't splattered causing a short anywhere and you're connected to the correct pins :)

You could open the box to have a look at the general condition of it just to weigh up the likelihood of it being shit. When I opened my box to look at the PCB, the manufacture date on it said April 2018 (so 3 years ago), but it looked much older. The solder was very dark from oxidisation, some of the joints looked very untidy (worse than I would do) and the board was generally quite dirty (residue, fingerprints). Honestly it looked like boards I've seen from scrap stereos (remember those!) I'd scavenged from outside. My board has so many possible areas of concern that it's not even worth me trying to diagnose where the issue could lie. To me this looks like a bad refurb, or possibly even a return that wasn't refurbed and was just sold on as working. I may put it in the oven at some point to see if that might reflow the solder and close a bad connection, which I'll update here if it does anything.

Hopefully this helps someone else stop wasting their time wondering if they've done something wrong.