Toyota Aygo 2009 not starting

[Mjolinor]

What do I need to do to make a used ECU work in this?

Presumably chip swapping or is it possible with some OBD device or another?

[Meat-Head]

Can you crank the shit out of it in one hit, 30 seconds or until engine light is on

then scan. You could then upload as one of them cranking fetishising videos then

[Meat-Head]

Ok did you crank the shit out of it for 30 or 60 seconds or not, leave ignition on and scan

[Mjolinor]

Nothing amiss in there with the wiring. It seems that the yards of insulating tape is from new having looked on the Internet. Typical cheap way of holding it together.

I think last thing is to rip the ECU apart and if there is nowt wrong in there then it's going for scrap. Pity really it is such a nice little car in really good order.

[Meat-Head]

Ok. When no start. Next time. Either heat ecu with something and/or freeze it

[MrDerv]

ECU, Immobiliser, Gauge cluster, and transponder key that is paired to it all

[Mjolinor]

More explorations.

I can see the immobiliser in delphi and it does all that it should, on, off, registered, unregistered.

Looking at real time data when I crank for a while then after maybe 10 seconds or so the immobiliser switches on and it aint ever going to start like that.

I reckon my immobiliser is faulty.

If so, what is the next step. I have a guy that will reprogramme a used immobiliser for me for £150 and I can get one off ebay for about £30.

So basically is it worth risking £200 on a hunch.

Is it likely that voltage drop at the immo box is causing this so maybe a bad earth or supply? It does work normally sometimes for months though it aint worked since last week at the moment.

[Mjolinor]

I have removed the immobiliser and the ECU does not log a "lost communication with immobiliser" fault code. The internet says it should.

I think I am going to buy a complete ECU + locks etc from ebay. There is one with all the same numbers for just over £100.

Knowing my luck it will just prove I have a fuel problem but such is life.

[Meat-Head]

At least known good ecu saved test fee. Also elminate it.

what about put battery charger or another car running with jump leads,
ignition on. Wait, then crank

[Mjolinor]

At least known good ecu saved test fee. Also elminate it.

what about put battery charger or another car running with jump leads,
ignition on. Wait, then crank

New battery, full charged + jump leads to running car already tried.

I think there is no immobiliser output. There is clock from immobiliser but no data but it was a quick test yesterday just as the rain started so hopefully I will get chance to look again today more thoroughly.

[Mjolinor]

Immobiliser has a blown N channel depletion MOSFET. Seems to me to be hopelessly underrated at 0.5 amps.

Sadly I do not have owt that will do so going to have to put my hand in my pocket.

[Meat-Head]

If its just data. Why ‘so big’. Or as your calling it ‘so small’
my understanding is (not physically quick enough), Why cant you put
a push button on it and press it 7 times in 1 second leaving 0.001 seconds spacing!

[Mjolinor]

Can anyone tell me the source of the two immobiliser signals.

One is clock and one is data.

Is it:
Clock = ECU source
Data = Immo source
or
Clock = Immo source
Data = Immo source
or
Clock = ECU source
Data = bidirectional
or
Clock = Immo source
Data = bidirectional

[Meat-Head]

As a rule ANY car. Ignition on the engine ecu will send “7” (naked eye” plulses
to the imbolicser box.

when working to the naked eye one pulse and it will start

same with detection on key pick up wrong or missing key. 7 pules in 1 second
correct key 1 pulse



if your going to scrap it. Run two fresh wires from crank sensor to ecu.
keep it short, Use bit of flymo cable if you want

just get wires in correct order.

ADVERTISEMENT:-

not to hand there is toyota immboliser emulator thing for remote start fitting of car alarm
it saves the key data and plays it back.

[Mjolinor]

So, after all that, a month of trying, lots of reading and these posts I have finally got it sorted.

For the next guy that struggles:

This car has always had an occasional problem starting. Two years ago it was fixed by a garage when they stuck a crank sensor in. This gave 18 months of being OK.

About 6 months ago it did the same again. I replaced the crank sensor and it made no difference.

Much looking and I discovered a blown MOSFET in the immobiliser and replaced it. It made no difference, still no start.

Bought a complete ECU / lock / key set, still no start.

Bearing in mind Flusters post about the crank signal output, having looked at every single image of the output I noticed that mine was higher than all of them. They seem to range from about 5.5 volts to 8.5 volts peak to peak. Mine was around 10 volts. I put the old sensor in and it worked with both my replacement ECU and the original ECU. I put the new sensor back in but packed it out slightly (about 2 mm) and it works.

So basically one original fault and a second fault introduced when I replaced the crank sensor. Two faults is always a dog to fix but boy do I know a lot about the wiring and electronics on these things now. ��