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    Default Renault clio 1.2 16v 2001 running problems

    hi Guys

    got the above vehicle to hand at te moment that is proving to be a headache and any advice/idea are welcome so basically here it is


    renault 1.2 16v starts and runs ok but after a few minues of driving starts to to stall at junctions and mil comes on rev it to 3000 it then clears and light goes off sometimes codes can be read and sometime there is`nt any but when read always shows the same.

    manifold pressure sensor
    downstream short to 12v

    so had at hand the same car but 2003 model so swapped the two sensors but problem is still there so this is where the headache starts have racked my brain and the net and seems to be alot of these wth this problem and most seem to point at the engine loom so decided to swap the loom,manifold and throttle body complete then started it all seemed fine until the next morning and he problem came back with the same 2 codes

    so checked live data and seems to downstream sensor was switching up and down but not very often so swapped it with the one from the good runner and was the same so swapped it back because the customer needed the good car back so put the problems car downstream sensor back in and now shows to be switching even more but no donor parts available so does anyone think it is possibe that all this is caued from a crap cat?


    many thanks
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    Default

    what did you scan this with and do you have the codes ?
    Today is the Tomorrow you worried about yesterday ......Was it worth it ?

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    Default

    Scanned with snap on modis and cant remember the codes but basically it was manifold pressure sensor and the other was downstream sensor (o2 sensor after cat)
    Oh and by the way if my post has been at all helpfull
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    Default

    does it start & run ok from warm or just from cold m8? it sounds temperature related

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    my thoughts too also map would cause a problem too after warmup as the inj time would drop making a weaker mixture for the hot engine
    so codes definition would maybe have made the difference
    also air volume of overrun and sevo draw would drop the mixture further hence the cut out
    and throwing the 02 sensor code on open loop
    any chance exact code descriptions or some live data of tps and map at idle and wot ?
    Today is the Tomorrow you worried about yesterday ......Was it worth it ?

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    Default

    Hi The map sensor code would probably be triggered by the stalling (loss of manifold pressure) The second code downstream sensor would not cause the engine to stall. I would try cleaning the throttle body and re set the throttle adoptions.

    BazT
    Lets do it to them... before they do it to us...

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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by BazT View Post
    Hi The map sensor code would probably be triggered by the stalling (loss of manifold pressure) The second code downstream sensor would not cause the engine to stall. I would try cleaning the throttle body and re set the throttle adoptions.

    BazT
    Your diagnosis are correct mate but I have one idea mor to add. If the engine has a motorized throttle I sugest you for first to repair the earth point on the gearbox the nut may be loosen, then you make re initialising of the motorized throttle.Earth point has caused me big head aches in past, fix the earth point then deal other problems.
    Cheers
    Learn from the mistakes and live the life.

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    Default

    car is better when cold as for throttle body i changed the whole intake manifold complete with throttle body and engine loom from a good runner so no probs there as for earths have been through them and all check out ok so going to connect my can clip in the morning and see what it shows on a cat test
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by teerak2uk View Post
    car is better when cold as for throttle body i changed the whole intake manifold complete with throttle body and engine loom from a good runner so no probs there as for earths have been through them and all check out ok so going to connect my can clip in the morning and see what it shows on a cat test
    The aim is not changing every thing, I asked you if the throttle is motorized or not, if it is motorized then make re-initializing of the throttle through the injection ecu when the car is cold, check the earth cable as well.
    Learn from the mistakes and live the life.

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Albanais View Post
    The aim is not changing every thing, I asked you if the throttle is motorized or not, if it is motorized then make re-initializing of the throttle through the injection ecu when the car is cold, check the earth cable as well.

    but when you have access to a good running one then sometimes is easier to eliminate the fault by changing parts from a good running one and yes it does have a motorized throttle, all earths are good

    just done a cat test because of the downstream o2 sensor continually switching and cat is now running at 99% effiency so maybe i have an issue with a temp sensor
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    Default

    Just a thought...when the car is "broken" check live data: 1.manifold pressure 2.atmospheric pressure and report back
    A failure will not appear till a unit has passed final inspection

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    Still think is a pressure sensor,there are 2 in this car if i remember,one is in manifold the other is in ecu,easiest thing to do is to replace MAP.
    If I'm right, the spark plugs should be black and smoked
    Last edited by rideon; 22nd August, 2010 at 09:53 AM.
    A failure will not appear till a unit has passed final inspection

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    Default

    common problems in 1,2 16V renault engines:
    cylinder head gasket - oil leakage
    injector faulty ( electrically or mechanically) - missfire
    ignition module - missfire
    manifold silicone gasket bad assembled from fabric - warm missfire or low power
    rarely MAP (pressure sensor) - misfire or low power and rich mixture

    check valve clearance if you dont find any failure!
    Last edited by bo0st; 22nd August, 2010 at 10:03 PM.

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    Default

    wont be map sensor as i had previously swapped it from a good running car

    after noticing on live data that the downstream sensor (sensor after cat) is continually switching giving concern this could be a bad cat or on its way out so have connected my can clip and ran a cat tested procedure basically tells you to start wait until warmed up, 2 cycles of engine cooling fan then rev the vehicle to 3000rpm for 1 minute then idle then 4500rpm for 1minute from what i recal and then monitors the temp of the cat and give you a percentage of efficiency (mine was 99%) so after replaced the temp sensor as the can be a nightmare sometimes and dont cost that much now back on live data and downstream seems to be ok even though i have seen it switch but very rare so time will tell but i think if it cames back then it may be time for a cat
    Oh and by the way if my post has been at all helpfull
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    Default

    try a tem reading with an ir temp guage of the ftont and rear of the cat front and rear should be within 50 degrees or less of each other
    easy test and also make sure there are no air leaks or a evap unit pipe snapped
    Last edited by racin-snake; 24th August, 2010 at 12:14 AM.
    Today is the Tomorrow you worried about yesterday ......Was it worth it ?

 

 
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