X6/V8 Key Code Cutting Machine

[Polkey]

I'm waiting for fo21 adapter now, i hope too get soon.

[Buddy41]

Hi,
I had a read through a few pages but did no tfind what i was looking for.

Renault Scenic 2004 key card 3 button.
Can the x6 key machine cut this key ?

Please advise thanks.

IMG_18-11-28_FA2522B9-4E30-4AE6-AB37-59532C9CBDC0.JPG

[81zx]

Yes using Code Master 5.5 software on a PC

[Buddy41]

I see it is VA2 but set up is not straight forward. Plastic part of key fouls clamp & will not reach correct slot alignment.
Can you advise the steps you take please to successfully cut this blank.

[darknezz19]

Got one of the new designed machines recently with the screw you need to loosen to change between drill and tracer. I don't decode keys as it's never worked for me so here's my little time saver.


You can actually just calibrate with the drill bit and change your stop position by -.70mm on each position to compensate in code master. I do this and on top don't even calibrate the machine now and it's spot on for about 4 keys so far without loosing calibration. If it did start to cut off in either X or Y axis I'd just adjust in code master. We'll see how long it can go without loosing calibration.


Also this is obvious but you can run your machine off a car's cigarette lighter as well. Not sure if it comes with one new as I bought both mine used. Pretty sure everyone knows that though as it's 12v.

[Buddy41]

I am sure that this machine running off a cars cigarette socket is asking for trouble.
I would first say that the wire will possibly melt then you have a big problem to deal with.

When you say screw to loosen you mean the one which has 2 Allen bolts ?

[darknezz19]

I mean the one that has a set screw to change bits, no more belts on the drill motor it's all one assembly.

Been running my old one with belts and no set screw on the cigarette lighter port for over a year now, it never draws anything close to 15 amps when the drill first spins up and that's when it's drawing the most. I have my car running when using it so the voltage or amperage draw doesn't dip below what the machine needs. Just got the newer machine in service about 4 days ago and so far so good with that one too.

The wires never even get warm, I've felt them on both machines when it's cutting.

Anyway this was more about the need to not change between cutters and probes if you don't use yours for decoding. Heck I'm not even going to calibrate mine as it seems to hold it's calibration just fine 4 different keys in. I'll update with how long she lasts without having to change anything. Have a feeling it's going to be fine for a bunch of more keys.

If you're worried about premature failure I'd take notice to how hot the red CPU box can get. I never try to leave mine plugged in for more than a half hour as that bad boy heats up a lot.

[Buddy41]

Can you screen shot the selection you make to cut key please.
I do not see it in the options to select from.
Instacode cars is 1105

[81zx]

Link to decode renault va2 . https://youtu.be/TwLsFp9_RKw

[Buddy41]

Thanks very much.
When you cut the key I assume you then put it in the top clamp.
If so do you put the key straight in or do use something below the key to raise it up a bit.

Thanks.

[sleepyrz]

I mean the one that has a set screw to change bits, no more belts on the drill motor it's all one assembly.

Been running my old one with belts and no set screw on the cigarette lighter port for over a year now, it never draws anything close to 15 amps when the drill first spins up and that's when it's drawing the most. I have my car running when using it so the voltage or amperage draw doesn't dip below what the machine needs. Just got the newer machine in service about 4 days ago and so far so good with that one too.

The wires never even get warm, I've felt them on both machines when it's cutting.

Anyway this was more about the need to not change between cutters and probes if you don't use yours for decoding. Heck I'm not even going to calibrate mine as it seems to hold it's calibration just fine 4 different keys in. I'll update with how long she lasts without having to change anything. Have a feeling it's going to be fine for a bunch of more keys.

If you're worried about premature failure I'd take notice to how hot the red CPU box can get. I never try to leave mine plugged in for more than a half hour as that bad boy heats up a lot.

can you take pics of newer machine?

[darknezz19]

It's not like a new machine, but the 2nd revision on the design with these cutters. It's been out for a long time.

Anyway here's a video of it cutting a HON31 off the car power without calibrating. Just plug in and cut, this is about my 8th key now without having to calibrate. Key was cut with speed at steel and cutter setting at 1.9 so it went a bit slow and deep on the cuts. On my old machine this was needed as I always had trouble getting it centered, not sure what the problem was with it, keys worked after some TLC. Anyway on the final remote key I set it to 2.0mm for the cutter and also bumped the speed back to brass setting and it worked perfectly and was centered on both sides. So much quicker cutting keys now without having to calibrate and change between cutters and probes.

Please excuse the messy car and my shaky hands><

https://youtu.be/8x-9uo_-b6g

[darknezz19]

Has anyone made a profile for GM hu100 10 cut keys? I got something that looks like it would work and can cut some test keys and adjust if needed, but maybe someone can share? If not I'll share mine once it's confirmed working.

[hcip]

Has anyone made a profile for GM hu100 10 cut keys? I got something that looks like it would work and can cut some test keys and adjust if needed, but maybe someone can share? If not I'll share mine once it's confirmed working.

Do you have a key measurement? I will try to make a profile..

Thanks

Edit:
disregard my post.... I've got the measurement already...
Best Regards

[mecanicaina]

I have successfully encoded and cut the hu100