MB W168 Central locking question

**alessioblaupunkt** · 4th January, 2014, 06:12 PM

Hello:
Friend of mine has a W168 (Mercedes A year 2003).
I ask you if it's normal this behaviour of the car:
if the remote doesn't work, the key inserted in the driver's door unlock and lock ONLY the driver's door.

**alessioblaupunkt** · 21st January, 2014, 11:54 AM

The switch is part of the door lock so I bought a second hand door lock for driver's door.
Will fit it next month, then I'll tell you if it'll cure.

Gosh the dude cut the yellow pipe. Just play a little with the finger and it will detach from the unit.
Luckily the one in the link it's not mine.

**Meat-Head** · 21st January, 2014, 11:58 PM

Think you squeeze with needle nosed pliers

if you have to cut the end if your yellow pope reconnect with rubber fuel hose

**alessioblaupunkt** · 22nd January, 2014, 09:29 AM

The one in the link has been cut. I never cut cable or pipe, even at the scrap yard: there is always a mate out there that need what I don't need.

So I never ruin pieces, even at scrap yard.
[The one I took from was a lady's car. Found expensive leather winter boots inside.]

**Plutoe** · 22nd January, 2014, 08:26 PM

Originally Posted by alessioblaupunkt

Hello:
Friend of mine has a W168 (Mercedes A year 2003).
I ask you if it's normal this behaviour of the car:
if the remote doesn't work, the key inserted in the driver's door unlock and lock ONLY the driver's door.

You may want to check the batteries in the key fob

FYI The small yellow pipe is the vacuum line that attaches to the door accuators, I believe the central locking vacuum pump is under the rear seat

**impactops** · 22nd January, 2014, 09:23 PM

You must be confused Plutoe, the leecher forum is across the road

**Plutoe** · 22nd January, 2014, 10:11 PM

I am honored that you are following me----typically you are ahead of me!! However were I can help out, regardless of location my intentions are to do so. Enjoy your day!!

**impactops** · 22nd January, 2014, 11:16 PM

Originally Posted by Plutoe

I am honored that you are following me----typically you are ahead of me!! However were I can help out, regardless of location my intentions are to do so. Enjoy your day!!

Follow? typical leecher comment, it was the 3rd topic in the thread.
By help out you mean regurgitate?

leechers always keep one foot at home base, so that when the others fizzle away they can claim that they were "helping out"

**Meat-Head** · 23rd January, 2014, 09:04 AM

Originally Posted by impactops

You must be confused Plutoe, the leecher forum is across the road

Sorry can you be more spefic

the one where premierd will not talk to you for a week if you go there
thr one with the massive locks and you get kicked out for pnot posting
or the one thats like walking into a new shop to find it's full of forgieners???
i
shite3 iShit3

**alessioblaupunkt** · 23rd January, 2014, 06:49 PM

Oh, I'm so sorry that a discussion about the worst female car in the world has altered relation between dk users.
Now the owner of the Merc-A-dies has to give free beer to all of you.

For the moment, accept this phrase by me and the Benz owner:

We love you all [Slipknot - during "Eyeless" live @ BigDayOut Festival 2005, SyDnEY]

Not to be confused with: me-love-you-long-time

**mihainv22** · 24th January, 2014, 11:15 AM

Originally Posted by alessioblaupunkt

Hello:
Friend of mine has a W168 (Mercedes A year 2003).
I ask you if it's normal this behaviour of the car:
if the remote doesn't work, the key inserted in the driver's door unlock and lock ONLY the driver's door.

You may find this link useful:

Albert Rowe, Lofty's homepage

Cheers!

**alessioblaupunkt** · 24th January, 2014, 07:41 PM

Ehr...did you sign in DK only to reply to me?
LOL. Thank you...but I didn't specify I've read that page long before posting in DK but nil poi.
For the moment I have enough reply, so thank you all but let me put my hands on that W168 so I can try some concrete conclusion.

In the meantime enjoy these:

**the_riddler** · 27th January, 2014, 04:06 PM

pump in spare wheel well
only drivers door will lock / unlock with key the pump locks / unlocks the rest.....
if remote ok and door switch ok, then pump broke, or electrics to it...

**alessioblaupunkt** · 26th February, 2014, 07:38 PM

First reaction when I saw the W168: facepalm-smiley-emoticon.gif
Car arrived with huge grey smoke coming from the bottom of the car. smileys-sighing-and-waiting-410638.gif
So I asked what happened. He told me the engine had a problem with the breather pipe after replacing the turbo. So a garage near there charge her daughter 1600? for replacing the turbo and the car is smoking like a Turk.

Anyway discussion was about front door lock but he had a problem in the rear door lock so I change it because the manual locking from interior was not working cause the thin metal cable inside the plastic guide brokes.
In the event the remote will not working, there is no way to lock the door if the manual lock don't work.

Got a lot of trouble removing the old door lock because this A-Class in the previous history clearly had a damage: the door is bent but you could not see from outside.
Same trouble to put in the used one, narrow space so had to swear a lot.
Had to use fist muscles a lot to temporarly deform the door and let the door lock pass form the bottom part of the door to the upper part where it sit in place.

Pay attention if you have one: this is a W168 facelift, the door lock unit has an internal handle frame that is fastened with 4 torx screw, 2 yellow (lateral) and 2 grey on the back side.
The used door lock come from the W168 Pre-facelift that use only the 2 yellow torx screw to fasten the internal handle frame, so at the end of the work you have 2 spare screws (grey torx).
I'll repeate: the Pre-facelift frame don't need those screws.
Other difference:
The facelift door lock is fastened with 2 torx bolts but the door HAS the third hole pointing to the interior side so you'll find a bolt to fit in that hole. Now the Pre-facelift door lock is fastened with 3 bolts as the W168 Pre-facelift in a facelift!!! Well done!

Enough with the facelift/Pre-facelift mess, now you have to install the exterior handle:
you need a spare man because one must use one hand to let the door lock hook pointing to the external side so the other guy will link the handle in the hook.
Then the internal handle frame is fastened with 2 yellow torx screws: the first could be screwed/unscrewed from the INternal side of the door (back of the door!), the second screw could be screwed/unscrewed from the EXternal side of the door (centre of the door!), under the gasket and covered by the handle.

Handle and screws are a mess but in the end it's easier to remove the door lock from a Pre-facelift compared to the facelift, because:
Pre-facelift had manual window --> A LOT OF FREE SPACE TO WORK AROUND.
Facelift had electric window so the motor is in the middle of the door and this subtract free space to work around. You'll not remove the motor because: it's not easy and there is a chance to break the plastic gear that guide the window cable, or there is the chance the window cable come out of gear if you remove the motor.

And if you're working in a regular door the space is adequate to remove and insert the door lock unit.
This was my situation:
Pre-facelift ---> angel
Facelift ---> evil
I don't think there could be significant difference in door width between Pre-facelift and facelift, but if you're working in a damaged door you have to go through hell to remove or insert!
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Hey the_riddler you provided a wonderful information:
No one of us wanted to swap the front door lock to "see if it will cure", so I gave him the front door lock coming from the Pre-facelift, we will change that only if strictly necessary.

Now the A-Class can lock/unlock all with remote, lock/unlock every single door with its own manual lock, lock/unlock only driver's door with key inserted in driver's door.