repair dashboard scenic 2

[RadovanPetkovic]

Lately, we’ve been playing with the Eprom 93C56 top. I can’t stay 100% correct to be that true, but I will appropriate myself to set up two groups of boards. The only users are normal data, and other SWAPs data. When the data is wrong in Eeprom Processor will not give a signal 5v to turn on the Chopper. How to recognize it ? The chassis can be seen in that VIN number. If you run with the normal file VFxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx if you can FVxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, it's a SWAP file. In principle, all the data should be collected in one place and entered into the plates, the original plate BIN file (Dump). That's all that's true.The most important thing is which car the file is from, you can find the tiles ... I
collected (I think) almost all versions of the board, I would like the scroll to suggest the original data for each sticker plate so that you know exactly how many plates the BIN dad is for. And that should make one base, so we finally have all the correct data.

P8200107954C ----> File
P8200332252C ----> File
P8200353671C ----> File
P8200365607B ----> File
P8200451505A ----> File
P8200461294H ----> File
P8200704463A- ---> File
P8200454450A ----> File
P8200704466D ----> File
P8200787774A ----> File
P8200288816E Espace ----> File
P8200288816B Еspace ----> File


When you have the original file of the board, it is easy to change the VIN number with the Dash Scenic2 software, It has or does not have an electronic parking brake, tire pressure sensors, cruser, user language ..... Or by using an original RenoClip diagnostic device or Lunch, Abritus .....

One more thing: When the Eeproma dump is wrong or bad the processor the buzzer beeps for a very long time. If it works properly when starting with the emulator (July, OF68 ....) only two beeps are heard .....

Maybe oscillograms on a large display help someone .....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xELDsjcpX4E

I have a problem with uploading pictures so I had to make a short video.
Video link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLcLcYWFruE

[RadovanPetkovic]

Let's share another experience with this famous Instrument panel, which always surprises with its new symptoms of failures.
One of the symptoms: On the car, the large display shows nonsense and occasionally flashes. And sometimes it works quite right.
After soldering the entire board when it is turned on the table with the July emulator (OF68), the dashboard works quite correctly. As soon as the gray connector turns on, the board prints some segments of the display and the large display stops shining for a moment ..... After a big headache.
I noticed that when the fuel gauge wire is disconnected, the dashboard works properly, except that there is no indication of the fuel level. So I could simulate a desktop failure when I short pin 22-23. Following the signals, I came to the conclusion that the voltage of 5v is not correct at the given points
BE SURE to CHECK the voltages at the points in the picture. MUST BE A STABLE VOLTAGE OF 5V.
In my case it was around 3.3v and viewed with an oscilloscope with some small peaks ...... It was found that the problem is the PNP transistor. With his replacement, the dashboard also worked properly on the car.
If there is no correct voltage of 5v dashboard, the processor will not work properly: It will not turn on the chopper power, the print on the screen will not be correct, it will turn off ..... and who knows what else

[mateopre]

Lately, we’ve been playing with the Eprom 93C56 top. I can’t stay 100% correct to be that true, but I will appropriate myself to set up two groups of boards. The only users are normal data, and other SWAPs data. When the data is wrong in Eeprom Processor will not give a signal 5v to turn on the Chopper. How to recognize it ? The chassis can be seen in that VIN number. If you run with the normal file VFxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx if you can FVxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, it's a SWAP file. In principle, all the data should be collected in one place and entered into the plates, the original plate BIN file (Dump). That's all that's true.The most important thing is which car the file is from, you can find the tiles ... I
collected (I think) almost all versions of the board, I would like the scroll to suggest the original data for each sticker plate so that you know exactly how many plates the BIN dad is for. And that should make one base, so we finally have all the correct data.

P8200107954C ----> File
P8200332252C ----> File
P8200353671C ----> File
P8200365607B ----> File
P8200451505A ----> File
P8200461294H ----> File
P8200704463A- ---> File
P8200454450A ----> File
P8200704466D ----> File
P8200787774A ----> File
P8200288816E Espace ----> File
P8200288816B Еspace ----> File


When you have the original file of the board, it is easy to change the VIN number with the Dash Scenic2 software, It has or does not have an electronic parking brake, tire pressure sensors, cruser, user language ..... Or by using an original RenoClip diagnostic device or Lunch, Abritus .....

One more thing: When the Eeproma dump is wrong or bad the processor the buzzer beeps for a very long time. If it works properly when starting with the emulator (July, OF68 ....) only two beeps are heard .....

Maybe oscillograms on a large display help someone .....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xELDsjcpX4E

I have a problem with uploading pictures so I had to make a short video.
Video link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLcLcYWFruE

Hello, could you share the DashboardScenic2 program, I couldn't find it and one attachment with the program is no longer working. Thank you

[teerak2uk]

Hello, could you share the DashboardScenic2 program, I couldn't find it and one attachment with the program is no longer working. Thank you

https://mega.nz/file/2V03BJoA#fTMipa...gcBm56pGOIBaWI

[mffa]

I have one dashboard work only big display the small display not work (clock display)
Anyone have this isue?
thanks

[RadovanPetkovic]

It is mostly a 0 ohm resistor that serves as a fuse. Bad solders are a problem, everything must be inspected .... Check all voltages and basic oscillograms. It is rarely a small display driver or even a small display itself. The problem is with small displays that have a "chessboard", that is, with pixels, the display and not the segment

[Junkyard Dog]

Can i something blow when i out here 7A fuse not 6.5A fuse?

[Junkyard Dog]

I have problem i dont see fuel and service light...When i push hard grey conector i see service and fuel but after 3-4min dead then again after 20-30sec back to live... Where can be problem?

[kalki85]

Hi,
I've read almost the whole thread. With your help I successfully repaired my own scenic 2 dash. Thank you.

Now I'm trying to emulate another dash on the table using Arduino+MCP2515. I turn ON/OFF the dash with no problem using these CAN messages:

ON: 0x35d, 8, 0x10, 0x03, 0x20, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x50, 0x00
OFF: 0x35d, 8, 0x10, 0x04, 0x20, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x50, 0x00

Can someone give me another message or Analyse log, so I can fire all the pixels up for test?

Thank you

[kalki85]

I have problem i dont see fuel and service light...When i push hard grey conector i see service and fuel but after 3-4min dead then again after 20-30sec back to live... Where can be problem?

Bad soldering joint/track.

[Dwightmac]

I'd like to share my experience repairing one of these units. (Scénic II 2005 - Johnson Controls J84 BG RUN4 V7.02 )

Initial symptoms:
* Both the big and small display (VFD) stopped working at random. Sometimes it worked for a couple of minutes. They didn't flash or blink, just went on or off.
* A 'clicking' or 'ticking' sound of a relais (or maybe the speaker in the dash) was audible when the displays were not working. The sound was not constant, but a random rhythm. Sometimes fast, sometimes not there at all.
* The red LED in the middle of the unit worked normally (blink when engine is not running, off when engine is running.)

The fuse was not burned and the MOSFET also checked out OK after measurement. Since I desoldered the big display to make a good inspection (and I did not want to do this again), I decided to not take any risk and replace the MOSFET, PWM-controller and electrolytic caps. Also resoldered the components that were marked by other users in this thread for having cold solder joints.

Everything put back together again and let's test in the car:
* Both displays did not come on, they remained off. Only red LED worked normally.
* The 'clicking' sound was still there.
* When driving the car it starts beeping after a few moments. (first one beep, two beeps, three beeps).
* The dash now also produced a constant high pitched sound, that wasn't there before. (coil whine maybe, not sure why though)

As a last ditch effort I decided to reflow the MCU using a hot air gun. Tried to avoid this, since It's not my area of expertise and seemed risky. Also had to take the big VFD off again, which is a bit tricky. The pins of the MCU looked dull, but it was very hard to see. (only have magnifying glass, you need a microscope to see this properly)

* It worked! The whole unit works completely normal again.
* No corrupted data, mileage was correct, radio works normal, etc.

Conclusion:
Cold solder joint on the MCU's pin that goes to PWM-controller. I suspect that while doin the first repair attempt, I bended the PCB board a little bit. This could've caused the already intermittent pin on the MCU to completely lose it's connection.

Anyways, I learned a ton reading this thread and I hope that my contribution is usefull to anyone else.

Cheers

[kalki85]

Hi,
I need working dump for P8200494955 / 328 000 km. Can someone help me?
The complains for this dash are: the small display is starting by himself after locking the car and draining the battery.
Unfortunately I don't have the radio.
The strange thing is that it wakes up without ON: 0x35d, 8, 0x10, 0x03, 0x20, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x50, 0x00.
A message for speed/km/h is enough to wake it up.
The dash looks perfect - this is 2006 model - PCB is better than previous models/ more electrolytic caps near the transformer.

Thank you

[omglol]

Hi to all! I need a bit of help. I repaired quite a few of these dashboards, but I have one that is giving me a headache.

It came to me about 3 months ago. I removed big VFD and reflowed everything around transformer, including the smallest SMD resistors. All good, dash was working. Now it came back to me - failed. After examination, I determined that "yellow" resistor was not soldered correctly (heating it or pressing it made the dashboard to work again), so I resoldered it.

Dashboard now works, but there is a high-pitch sound coming from the transformer and the 0-ohm resistors (red) are getting very hot, so I don't let the dashboard work for more than 30 seconds in order not to burn out something. What could be the problem? Thanks!

IMG_20201211_134044.jpg

[Elektrik001]

Hi to all! I need a bit of help. I repaired quite a few of these dashboards, but I have one that is giving me a headache.

It came to me about 3 months ago. I removed big VFD and reflowed everything around transformer, including the smallest SMD resistors. All good, dash was working. Now it came back to me - failed. After examination, I determined that "yellow" resistor was not soldered correctly (heating it or pressing it made the dashboard to work again), so I resoldered it.

Dashboard now works, but there is a high-pitch sound coming from the transformer and the 0-ohm resistors (red) are getting very hot, so I don't let the dashboard work for more than 30 seconds in order not to burn out something. What could be the problem? Thanks!

IMG_20201211_134044.jpg

Maybe one of the tantalum capacitors will be defective ...
First measure the ones that are visible in your photo (they are connected in parallel).
Of course, you have to desolder them first.

[Elektron1]

The correct contents of the 93c56 dump are required for the instrument panel Renault Scenic II, P8200 107 954A, Ind: X0 V5.0B year 2003.
BR.