TDV6 will not start

**Mjolinor** · 21st March, 2019, 08:54 AM

I have a 2005 Land Rover that had a broken crank. I have completely rebuilt the engine and fitted it back in the car.

It will not start. I have correct fuel line pressure from tank and correct common rail pressure but I have no injection. I know this because I took an injector out and pointed it upwards.

IMMO is behaving correctly I believe as it disables the starter when active. I have a flashing LED on the dash that briefly stays on for about 2 seconds when I turn the key then it goes out. I reckon that is correct according to the mighty Google.

I have no significant fault codes (Delphi) but I do get sort of random fault codes sometimes. I have a pending camshaft sensor fault and a pending turbo pressure fault, neither of these should stop it starting.

This site sort of describes my problem but I am not going to throw money at someone else.
https://www.turnerdiagnostics.com/la...n-start-2.html

More suggestions please. I don't need any suggestions about how crap these things are and how the canal is a good place for it, I told my mate not to buy it in the first place but he did and now I am stuck trying to get it to work.

**autoden** · 21st March, 2019, 08:53 PM

That cam sensor could be the culprit. ECU has to see good cam and crank correlation to start. Thats maybe why its not injecting.

**Mjolinor** · 21st March, 2019, 11:07 PM

Originally Posted by autoden

That cam sensor could be the culprit. ECU has to see good cam and crank correlation to start. Thats maybe why its not injecting.

I think I got to that point today. Delphi says "pending" but Delphi is probably being a bit generic about it. The manual does say if it gets a naff signal form the cam it stops injecting and today I stuck a scope on the injectors and there is no injection pulse. So I think you are right, pity it is such a dog to get out.

I will report back on the findings once I have addressed that particular item.

Cheers.

**Mjolinor** · 24th March, 2019, 02:14 PM

Well after much inventive language I finally managed to change the cam sensor. It is exactly the same. I am going to do the crank sensor next though I don't have any fault codes for it the manual does say it may cause cam sensor faults.

This vehicle is without any doubt the worst vehicle I have ever had to work on, it is really crap.

**autoden** · 24th March, 2019, 08:09 PM

With the scope did you get a good signal from cam sensor? pointless moving on until that is good. Easier to check by back probing ecu plug.

**leotdx** · 24th March, 2019, 08:40 PM

The sensors are not the problem. You have bad timing. Check timing belt/chain is not correct mounted.

**Mjolinor** · 25th March, 2019, 08:39 AM

No signal at all from the cam sensor so wiring check next.

Does anyone know if the pull up for the cam sensor is in the cam sensor or ECU or both?

I have ground, 5 volt supply and a steady 5 volt signal line.

**Meat-Head** · 25th March, 2019, 08:54 AM

Normally you have a “0.5 v” “hello I’m here” on sensors

as your confident in the engine, 2 can of easy start, 1 and 9/10 to inhale yourself and use the 1/10 in the engine

not sure on your engine but look at “freelander 2.0 bmw/rover 75 engine” had one word for word identical as yours
but he had a few more dk thanks, was something to do with lumpy stick 180 rev out, spun round and it started.

**Mjolinor** · 27th March, 2019, 03:57 PM

Having now found the correct wires (do'h) I have both crank and cam signals. I cannot find any diagram on the net that shows me what they should look like.

There is nothing on this engine to allow me to crank and know TDC while cranking so I cannot decide if these waveforms are correct in relation to each other.

Does anyone have a graph showing crank and cam PS correctly in relation to each other.

The reluctor ring on the crank was replaced with a new one using the special tool to align it so should be right but I can find no way to actually check it.

**Mjolinor** · 27th March, 2019, 05:53 PM

Can anyone tell me what diagnostics this is?

**Meat-Head** · 2nd April, 2019, 07:48 AM

BUMPAGE:-

So what’s the update, how did you get it to run? Why did crank snap?

**Ciprian2001** · 15th April, 2019, 05:49 PM

i had the same problem after reseting fuel line...and started the motor.At the third key the engine does not started and have same trouble codes..the problem was the timing.cranckshaft bought from england apex not ok,now need to rebuild the engine again

**Mjolinor** · 6th August, 2019, 06:31 AM

OK. After much more work this thing is now MOTd and on the road. It has taken two years to sort out.

We got it to fire having adjusted the timing and it ran away. Feared that it had blown itself up again. All the oil gone and smoking like you would not believe. Turbo oil seal gone.

New turbo later and a month of trying to stop it smoking and it is now OK. I didn't want to strip off the exhaust and intercooler to empty it of oil so drilled a small hole at the lowest point of the exhaust to let oil out and just kept running it in short bursts until it stopped smoking.

The original not starting problem was my mate's inability to tell a drive plate torque converter mounting bolt hole from a timing hole d'oh. Boy has he had some stick about that and he will continue to get stick about it for the rest of his life.

**autoden** · 6th August, 2019, 07:12 AM

Good fix. Pity when you cannot trust a fellow mechanic to do his part. Have had loads of "i only changed this, now won,t start" from other garages. Bent pins, trapped wires etc etc. Did you get a known good cam crank scope to help others?

**Mjolinor** · 6th August, 2019, 10:02 AM

Originally Posted by autoden

Good fix. Pity when you cannot trust a fellow mechanic to do his part. Have had loads of "i only changed this, now won,t start" from other garages. Bent pins, trapped wires etc etc. Did you get a known good cam crank scope to help others?

No pictures. Once the cam was locked with the timing tool and I spotted a bolt in the drive plate where the timing hole should be I was far too busy laughing at my mate and giving him stick to do anything else.

I still have the wires separated from the loom so I may just stick a scope on to get the two traces in their correct relationship anyway if I get time.