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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeianM View Post
    Previous post shows image of immo status
    2.5 vol is correct for this car with sensor disconnected
    fitted genuine new sensor from ford
    rewired back to ecu
    still says faulty sensor
    Unclear if both 29f400 & 24c04 need to be set to immo off. (only did the 24c04)
    It's not interference from starter.
    Normally only the eeprom need to be set off

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charli View Post
    Normally only the eeprom need to be set off
    You are also sure that your belt is alligned correctly crank and cam,
    I am also not sure but do they have also immo on the cluster itself?

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    BeianM (25th September, 2019)

  4. #18
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    I have never heard of any engine sensor only 2.5v. Something wrong! Strip insulation off the 3 wires all the way to ecm. Load test the wires if you know how. If not ask... With ecu plugged in back probe Wire and check for voltage at the plug. This should have been nailed by now.

  5. #19
    DK Veteran BeianM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by autoden View Post
    I have never heard of any engine sensor only 2.5v. Something wrong! Strip insulation off the 3 wires all the way to ecm. Load test the wires if you know how. If not ask... With ecu plugged in back probe Wire and check for voltage at the plug. This should have been nailed by now.
    My research confirms 2.5 volt on the crank sensor. I have rewired back to the ecu with no joy. Lots of other work on, so slow progress.

  6. #20
    DK Veteran BeianM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charli View Post
    You are also sure that your belt is alligned correctly crank and cam,
    I am also not sure but do they have also immo on the cluster itself?
    It does have a PATS fault (u2010) one module is not responding. Have used software to immo off & on via obd now. Would a PATS fault cause no crank signal?

  7. #21
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    Does it run on easy start.

    ON/off topic:-

    somebody had a polo clutch went, no money yadda yadda towed to garage, box out, clutch in, no start, because it was used every day no problem, stood a week oil pressure dropped, timing slipped, to scrap yard new clutch

    Was Banned For Being Certifiably Insane and Stupid

  8. #22
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    On topic:-

    after thiught:-

    unplug crank sensir crank 30 seconds (for fault code). See what says

    thrn plug crank in, unplug cam, repeat read.

    your trying to catch the computer lieing to you

    Was Banned For Being Certifiably Insane and Stupid

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    BeianM (25th September, 2019)

  10. #23
    DK Veteran BeianM's Avatar
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    So, cam timing appears ok having removed the crank pulley & cam cover. So I replaced the cam sensor & the g28 Crank sensor fault code has gone! The PATS fault (u2010) one module is not responding was because we had turned the immo off in the ecu, we did this because of faulty keys. Having turned immo back on (having found a good key) - no more flashy flashy immo light. When we first got the fault it was deffo an immo fault as the car would attempt to start run rough for a few seconds, now it sounds like it is trying to start on one cylinder so maybe the injector loom is faulty. Now I see why no-one wants to deal with the Ford Galaxy!

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    Meat-Head (25th September, 2019)

  12. #24
    DK Veteran BeianM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charli View Post
    Normally only the eeprom need to be set off
    It appears that the Ford Galaxy having the extra PATS module you can't immo off just in the engine ecu as it caused the (u2010) one module is not responding.

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    Meat-Head (25th September, 2019)

  14. #25
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    OFF TOOIC:-

    had one years ago, unable to talk to ANY module

    VAGUE MODE ON:-

    grey/white x3 passenger side going to trunk

    turned on rear fog light, ignored it

    other two, cut (staggered in case wrong)

    joined, was able to clear codes

    VAGUE MODE OFF:-

    Was Banned For Being Certifiably Insane and Stupid

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    BeianM (26th September, 2019)

 

 
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