I found out the problem with mine earlier, I'll explain later.
I found out the problem with mine earlier, I'll explain later.
Sorry for the delay I only came in for a moment earlier and had to go out again.
Anyway, I checked feeds to the ecu and voltage drop test all ok. Then I re examined the codes I got. Firstly with a launch X431 reader I got - Sequence solenoid valve EV52 short to +12v , Sequence solenoid valve EV56 short to + 12v , Exchanger flow solenoid short to +12v. (Same as Z786) Then I read with snap on code reader and I got Final drive solenoid circuit short to +12v, old oil , press modulator solenoid short to +12v.
So I checked every solenoid wire back to the gearbox ECU all ok. One thing I did notice was that I never heard the pump running. Anyway I decided to have a closer look at the solenoids and at the same time check the mechanical side of the gearbox linkage and put it back in neutral.
So I removed the whole actuator and pump as one unit.
The gearbox was indeed selected in 1st gear as displyed on the dashboard before. So I put it back to neutral. Then I checked all the solenoids and even powered them up to hear the clicking noise. In the end it turned out to be the hydraulic pump didn't work when tested for resistance or when powered up. So not willing to replace parts until I was sure, I removed the electric motor cover and checked inside. I found one of the brush wires was snapped. I wasn't 100% if it snapped whilst dismantling so I soldered it back together. The fun bit was putting it back together. But it was succesful and the motor ran good when tested. One of the brushes was nearly worn down so I will probably replace the motor anyway now.
So with a running hydraulic pump I wanted to test it all before refitting the lot. So I rested the unit near the gearbox where I could plug it all in. And initially the codes returned and the pump would run after clearing. I did this a few times (clearing codes) and then the codes stayed away, The ECU must of learnt that all was ok. So the car now starts and runs and the codes stay off. Tomorrow I will refit it all properly. Wish me Luck!
Was Banned For Being Certifiably Insane and Stupid
Everything I used, ECU and engine loom was from stick & cog car, no i didnt have to change the dash everything inside the auto was the same apart from the gearshift and gear stick boot. Its easy, as I say just drop everything out the bottom, loom ecu the whole lot and replace everytrhing from donor vehicle
I just saw your post and it looks like your pump is gone too. I did find on my one as well as the pump not working there was also electrical burning on the connector in the main actuater loom and also the relay for the pump has badly burnt contacts.
I think the best place to get a new pump would be from Renault, I'm not sure how much they are yet but I'm checking tomorrow for my one.
i think you'l end up going 2 the scrap yard![]()
"I always tell the truth. Even when I lie"
"We Taking Over, One City At A Time"
Very good. But it's not my car, I only offer new parts for my customers especially certain electrical or unknown mechanical parts. If they want second hand parts they can get them themselves and I'll charge to fit them. But I find a lot of breakers are reluctant to dismantle parts from a gearbox,they will usually want to sell it complete. I realise that new Renault parts are on the pricey side.
That's the way to do it, the only time I go rummaging at the scrapyard is when I break something on a customers car and have to replace it for free, like when changing the clutch on a ford focus you hang the engine and jack it forwards to clear the subframe and then snap a pipe off the evap canistor purge valve (I have done this twice now!)
I put it all back together and got it all working today and it drives perfectly. Initially it wouldn't select gears but after a few key off and engine restarts later it sorted itself out. I priced a pump at Renault trade was about ?225 + vat. About what I thought so that will probably be changed in the future. In all that I have done I managed to keep the hydraulic system intact so no bleeding or programming was needed.
Another point to note on these cars and it is quite important and that is regarding the fault codes. What I've noticed is that my scanner was going into what it thought was an automatic car when in fact it is a sequential gearox. It must be a very similar ECU to allow this. So ignore what the fault codes say. Unless you're using a Renault clip diagnostic scanner or a tool which specifies Sequential gearbox. The live data is also useless and must be ignored. In fact don't even bother unless you've got the proper tool to code read it. In the end it was careful checking of every component that sorted it. I could of got lead the wrong way if I believed what the scanner told me.
I didn't replace the pump yet, I have repaired it but will replace it in the future. It isn't difficult to replace the pump, you just remove the battery and the shield and the air filter box. Then you're supposed to use renault tool to de pressurise the accumulator, because the system could hold a high amount of pressure. Syphon off the fluid in the reservoir using a syringe then you just take the metal oil pipe off and unbolt the pump.
Fit the new pump and then when it's all back together you will have to top the fluid level up and bleed the system with a renault clip tool and re learn the gear positions etc whilst you're there.
So you what did you do exactly to get your one working?
you say i put it all back together.....
did you just replace the relay and the wiring loom connector?
Thanks
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