Jimmy07 (23rd February, 2020)
Damih
Thank you very much. Doing this job tomorrow morning you have helped me out big time.
If I can return the favour just ask 👍🏻👌
damih (24th February, 2020)
normally with the VAC102 the code you will get from dealer has 8 digits , you drop the last 2 digits and the direct cuts are the 1st 6 digits .
but your code is only 7 digits , as the value 0 is not a valid digit if following this normal code rule , then its possible the 1st digit is the one missing , instacode throws up 3 possibles which are , 143212 , 343212 , 543212 .
another option is the vac102 lishi tool , it wont pick and decode the door lock , but it will pick and decode the fuel cap and the ignition lock.
Last edited by rapidlocksmiths; 24th February, 2020 at 01:02 AM.
Just do a Kangoo 2005 AKL, pick and decode igntion lock 30s. Kangoo alway VAC102.
Be polite. No Thanks + Rep, no HELP!!! Slava Ukcraine. Dead Putler civilians's killers!!!
Jimmy07 (24th February, 2020)
So we can't pick open a kangoo vac102 with lishi?
Tools owned -
AD100 PRO, Lonsdor, FVDI 18, FVDI 20, VVDI PROG, VVDI2, VVDI MB
CGDI BMW, SuperVag, Renault ECU tool, OBDstar X300 DP Plus, AUTEL im508
VVDI Mini Keytool, KeyDIY KDX2, SBB, ACDP CAS/KVM
Opcom, VCDS pro, Diagbox, Multiecuscan, Forscan, JLR SDD
Jimmy07 (24th February, 2020)
Sure i pick and decode with Lishi, but customer bring the lock
Be polite. No Thanks + Rep, no HELP!!! Slava Ukcraine. Dead Putler civilians's killers!!!
Thanks everyone
I have asked broker to check the code as definitely doesn’t look like a valid code. I don’t have a Lishi for this lock but don’t particularly want to buy one as it’s limited to a couple of older models and would probably sit in toolbox for a year before I’d use it again
For me i open door and decode ignition lock with lishi va102 never any problem
Last edited by damih; 24th February, 2020 at 10:13 AM.
codes are normally 8 digit as i said , you normally drop the last 2 digits , the 1st 6 are the direct cuts , so as 0 isnt a valid cut on yours it looks like the 1st digit may be missing , if so instacode says for rest of bitting it will be a 1 , 3 or 5 in position 1 , though you could cut 1 in position 1 on 1st key , then 2 , then 3 then 4 then 5 , if rest of bitting is correct then you will get your key using 1 blade. but see what broker says. but thats assuming its the 1st digit and not one of the other digits missed off , this is where having a lishi removes the doubt , also no code needed and if locks changed job still gets done.
excluding some old models , you do see vac102 on kangoo and twingo models up to 2008 , you say its not worth having the lishi , when you consider what a code costs or that one that has had the ignition changed and code is wrong , how long does this tool take to pay back , 1 or 2 jobs at most , no code costs and quick simple job and may just be the difference between getting paid or not.
failing this pull a lock and strip it down and hope all locks on same key .
Broker back with new code
43212104
So it should be 432121 ?
yes , drop the last 2 digits , so direct cuts of " 432121 " as long as vehicle hasnt had a lock change on door or ignition otherwise you will wish you had that lishi .
this is just another example of knowing that boring time consuming basic key and series knowledge , if this was known you would have known a 7 digit code was wrong straight away , and gone straight back to broker , even with an 8 digit code you wouldnt have got very far with instacode if not knowing its direct cuts and which ones , but had you known that you drop the last 2 digits and the 1st 6 are the direct cuts then job would be done. i know i bang on about learning the basic foundations , but it can be crucial , like with a lishi , you may not use it every day but you are glad its there when its needed , im honestly shocked that these basics are no longer well known by those trading , i couldnt work without them .
Last edited by rapidlocksmiths; 24th February, 2020 at 03:21 PM.
Jimmy07 (24th February, 2020)
Hi Rapid
Thanks for info
I don’t think I’m doing too bad for the length of time I’m going. Can lishi most locks and have put in hundreds of hours at the auction bettering myself and still go when I’m quiet like tommorrow 2 jobs on them go to auction with Mercedes Lishi.
I have a friend at this game for years and didn’t know the door lock wouldn’t pick and thought his pick was distorted or a manufacturing mistake. He walked away from 2-3 of these in the past.
I did query the code that’s why I posted on here and contacted the broker. I knew code wasn’t right and asked if someone could calc code from vin. Your 100% correct aim to have full Lishi range but this one is towards the bottom of the list as others offer better range of vehicles so it’s about prioritising which order to buy them in.
ive found it doesnt matter how many years someones been in the game , if the basics are missing they are missing , each to own , ive just always believed in building up from solid foundations rather than working up and down from the middle or starting from top and trying to work backwards , must be the dinosaur in me as i believe in firm foundations to build upon , an outdated and unpopular view i know as a tedious subject matter to learn and learning isnt earning .
theres rarely a need to walk away , we was opening these long before lishi came along , always other methods of entry to consider and use , to walk and accept defeat is the worst feeling in world for any of us.
VAC102 although only having 6 key cuts , there is a 7th wafer in the later door lock and a 7th cut also , this is a generic number 1 cut , its only purpose is in the operation of the clutch , you may have noticed when you cut the key that there is an extra 1 cut at the tip , the good cut to code machines know to add this additional cut at the tip of the key as generic , the sole purpose of this is to disengage the clutch unit so the lock can open , without this 1 cut at the tip the lock will not open even with the correct cut key in the key cut positions , in fact it used to be a common call out , key just spinning in the lock and door not opening especially on vehicles without remote entry , all due to wear on this 7th cut not disarming the clutch unit , so a bit of wear used to cause issue , good for us as meant a job to cut a new key blade to fix the issue. its a well thought out design of clutch unit that if reintroduced on modern locks would thwart lishi tools getting quick entry .
though on this lock they didnt stop at just a clutch unit , they also fitted a side bar that prevents the wafers from binding even if the clutch is disengaged , not all door locks had this , but most vac102 did , another design feature that when working as can be non working , if they reintroduced it improved to modern locks would also make jobs far more interesting and force us to work harder for our corn .
luckily for us , this clutch unit and sidebar is only on the majority of door locks , its not on the ignition and its not on the locking fuel cap and on these the lishi works very well , distributors could make it clearer what a tool can and cant do , but i guess its not their remit to educate us their only role is to sell product. though it wasnt that long ago that no lock pick came with instructions at all and there were no how to guides and no videos , the good old days.
id love to see such clever devices reintroduced to modern locks as new generations should be more secure and not less secure luckily for us locks went backwards on whole , but cost cutting being what it is today in manufacture the bean counters dont like them , id fit both to a lock with a few other tricks if i could redesign a modern vehicle lock , it would certainly increase security of the lock and thwart easy entry .
its ironic that the technology already exists to make vehicle locks far more secure by simply revisiting the past , ironic that more modern means less secure , sticking an FO19 on doors again would certainly cause many problems , but alas the little extra that this costs to produce prevents it at present . at a time where lock security has been so openly compromised on the internet , open forums and youtube giving wrong doers an easily accessed classroom that they havnt moved to make things more secure.
manufactures keep putting small hurdles in to try and slow entry down with sunken locks , spacers , locks behind handles inverted wafers and side facing wafers as cheap fixes to hamper quick entry , all pretty much pointless as over the years locksmiths have learnt how to overcome such hurdles , where as reinstalling some old designs would simply achieve this , id love to work on such projects with vehicle lock manufaturers , maybe a retirement project , ive spent so many years working on methods of entry to beat house and vehicle locks , it would be a challenge and fun to work on the other side of the fence , poacher to gamekeeper .
this modern trade is no place for us old dinosaurs these days , im ready for the sun and a sunbed and go out to pasture to wither away .
Last edited by rapidlocksmiths; 25th February, 2020 at 01:20 AM.
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