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Thread: TOY47 Decoding

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    Default TOY47 Decoding

    Struggling to decode steering lock, any video help or some kind of a struggle using toy47 lishi is there any tricks?.

    Thanks in advance
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    Tried today with TOY47 the tool blade not going in fully in the lock, been reading on other forum said TOY38 some time do the job instead of TOY47 they are a bit tricky I will order one tomorrow any one got issue.
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    Is there a partnumber on the lock, that can lead you to the correct blade.
    Often ebay adds provide some good pics.

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    i doubt you will get very far with the TOY38R/TOY41R pick on a TOY47 lock , very different depth and spacing , toy38r is a shoulder stop tool where as toy47 is tip stop , plus toy38r doesnt have the generic 2 cut at the tip of the tool to interact with the 9th wafer . if its a toy47 lock and if you have an ignition enabled toy47 tool then it should get full insertion and pick and decode the toy47 lock .

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    another approach if you can not pick the lock,drill the pin on the ignition switch that hold it in place,take it apart and make key,make a new pin on a lace(very easy to do)

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    Quote Originally Posted by rapidlocksmiths View Post
    i doubt you will get very far with the TOY38R/TOY41R pick on a TOY47 lock , very different depth and spacing , toy38r is a shoulder stop tool where as toy47 is tip stop , plus toy38r doesnt have the generic 2 cut at the tip of the tool to interact with the 9th wafer . if its a toy47 lock and if you have an ignition enabled toy47 tool then it should get full insertion and pick and decode the toy47 lock .
    Nice to hear you up and about as you said I need to put power in ignition to get the tool fully in, I took the lock out of the car and there was no power when inserting the tool, will try again today with powered on.
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    i think Martin did not say anything for power on ignition

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    Quote Originally Posted by rapidlocksmiths View Post
    i doubt you will get very far with the TOY38R/TOY41R pick on a TOY47 lock , very different depth and spacing , toy38r is a shoulder stop tool where as toy47 is tip stop , plus toy38r doesnt have the generic 2 cut at the tip of the tool to interact with the 9th wafer . if its a toy47 lock and if you have an ignition enabled toy47 tool then it should get full insertion and pick and decode the toy47 lock .
    As you said, if you have an ignition enabled toy47 tool then it should get full insertion and pick and decode the toy47 lock

    How can I have ignition enabled with TOY47 tool when I can not turn the ignition swith on? TOY47 will just not go fully in the lock.
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    Quote Originally Posted by newone View Post
    i think Martin did not say anything for power on ignition
    Who is Martin?
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    Quote Originally Posted by newone View Post
    another approach if you can not pick the lock,drill the pin on the ignition switch that hold it in place,take it apart and make key,make a new pin on a lace(very easy to do)
    Drilled the bugger and got the key cut all sorted found out once drilled its peace a cake...
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    Lads can some one tell me why those both sellers are selling deferent sort of TOY47 & TOY38R lishi tools now wonder I was struggling for two days the tool Autowave send me as described as TOY47 but will not work on TOY47 lock and you can see from the picture the deference between the Tradelock tool and Autowaves tool completely deferent, now can some one confirm which picture is compatible for TOY47 steering lock.
    Autowave-TOY38RTR40.jpg
    Autowave-TOY47-9CUT.jpg
    Autowave_TOY47.jpg

    Tradelock_TOY47.jpg
    Tradelock_TOY38.jpg
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    the TOY38R tool is not for toy 47 its for toy41r , totally different depth and spacing and toy38r is a shoulder stop tool where toy47 is a tip stop tool.

    ok what i mean by ignition enabled tool , 2 different tools are made , one tool is just for the door and the trunk , the other has slightly different consrtruction and has been modified to fit the ignition lock , this is determined differently by the 2 brands , original lishi with mr li head on tool will state on the tool door trunk for the 2in1 tool and dor/trunk/ign for a tool modified to pick the ignition , genuine lishi call the tool that just does door and trunk as 2in1 and the ignition modified tool as 3in1 . so by ignition enabled tool i refer to the modification that allows it to get full insertion into the ignition.

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    Dti
    3 in 1
    2 in 1 dr/trk ign

    All these are ignition enabled

    nything else is not
    The thanks button is HERE looks like this --->>> THANKS

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    Quote Originally Posted by rapidlocksmiths View Post
    the TOY38R tool is not for toy 47 its for toy41r , totally different depth and spacing and toy38r is a shoulder stop tool where toy47 is a tip stop tool.

    ok what i mean by ignition enabled tool , 2 different tools are made , one tool is just for the door and the trunk , the other has slightly different consrtruction and has been modified to fit the ignition lock , this is determined differently by the 2 brands , original lishi with mr li head on tool will state on the tool door trunk for the 2in1 tool and dor/trunk/ign for a tool modified to pick the ignition , genuine lishi call the tool that just does door and trunk as 2in1 and the ignition modified tool as 3in1 . so by ignition enabled tool i refer to the modification that allows it to get full insertion into the ignition.
    Thanks rapid with your help all understude and sorted.
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    First time use Lishi TOY47, tool has only 8 cuts but full TOY47 blade is 9 cuts.

    I've tried to pick ignition lock, but only spring from 5 to 8.

    What is your experience with this Lishi?
    Be polite. No Thanks + Rep, no HELP!!! Slava Ukcraine. Dead Putler civilians's killers!!!

 

 
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