One of my two remotes (Part 9254891-03 / FCC ID HUF5662) died for my 2012 F30

[fe7565]

One of my two remotes (Part 9254891-03 / FCC ID HUF5662) died for my BMW 2012 F30 (328i). Would like to ask for your advice on my options.


Do not have comfort-access. I have a fully working remote. The second (broken) remote starts the car when placed against the key outline on the steering wheel column, but none of the remote buttons work anymore.


Replaced the battery, made sure the contacts touch, took apart the case and looked at the circuit board for obvious issues. Tried to "re-sync".


One option is to buy a used OEM key. As I understand this has to be wiped first (virginized) AND programmed...by a locksmith(?)


The second option is to buy a new aftermarket China/Ebay clone with a virgin circuit board that also needs to be programmed...by a locksmith(?)


Any DIY options for programming? Can I remove the EEPROM chip (F7953PC1800) from the broken remote and replace the virgin chip with it in the new remote? I have a reflow soldering station.


Thank you.

[lion0304]

I don't think here is DIY forum, better call an auto locksmith in your area.

[fe7565]

I don't think here is DIY forum, better call an auto locksmith in your area.

Thank you. I contacted 10 locksmiths in my area via email/webmail today and only 1 responded so far...saying cannot do BMW. Wil see what the rest may say tomorrow. They do not seem to be in a hurry to reply since this is not an emergency for me nor for them.

Mainly for future solutions so the dealer won't have me by my balls every time something like this could happen... this is my current plan:

Since I am not in a bind, have time and willing to experiment, I do plan to buy a $20 clone Chinese EBay key with the same FCC ID, etc. Since my broken OEM remote is already beyond repair, I will remove the PCF7953 EEPROM and transplant it in the clone remote.

Question 1: do you see anything fundamentally wrong with this EEPROM transplant approach?
Question 2: since I have my OEM remote along with correct the data on it can I use one of those $50 PCF79XX Ebay readers/writers and transfer the data from the OEM remote to the clone remote's EEPROM?
Question 3: is there a less than $300 BMW FEM/BDC key programmer? ($300 is the dealer's cost estimate for a new key)

[vialli]

I moved the pcf 79xx chip to a new chinese key with the same frequency and it worked

[fe7565]

I moved the pcf 79xx chip to a new chinese key with the same frequency and it worked

Thank you, comforting to know yours worked out. I am trying one more thing beforehand: just read that after using Bimmercode (to program FEM and other ECU module coding app) some people had the same experience of losing their FOB's ability to work remotely. Like it got unsynced and cannot be resynced I also did a Head Unit upgrade at the same time frame to a new type so that makes things more compex as far as troubleshooting to pinpoint the culprit. At least without a specialist key/ECU module programmer.

[fred77]

Thank you, comforting to know yours worked out. I am trying one more thing beforehand: just read that after using Bimmercode (to program FEM and other ECU module coding app) some people had the same experience of losing their FOB's ability to work remotely. Like it got unsynced and cannot be resynced I also did a Head Unit upgrade at the same time frame to a new type so that makes things more compex as far as troubleshooting to pinpoint the culprit. At least without a specialist key/ECU module programmer.

You were lucky then many novices have buggered car (even more experienced).

------------------

As for Auto-locksmiths you only see a cheap key.
BTW that cheap key may have quality issues


For me I spent thousands on kit with on-going costs. So charging say £150 is still 50% cheaper than dealership.

[fuzz1]

Try to view the pcb under a microscope.
If you lucky you might find what went wrong.
If you have a frequency reader for remotes you will know if the remote is functioning and is out of synch.
Could be a damaged part or battery leak.


And yes i bought a key from the dealer for a BMW surprisingly it was only twice the cost of what locksmith charge.

[godfathertwo]

It amazes me when I read this
Got a top of the range bmw try to fix or program remote take car to dealer or call a Locksmith or pay the price next time you will render your bmw as non starter as playing with fire with little knowledge.

[fe7565]

It amazes me when I read this
Got a top of the range bmw try to fix or program remote take car to dealer or call a Locksmith or pay the price next time you will render your bmw as non starter as playing with fire with little knowledge.

Don't be amazed, nobody likes to bend over and take it from behind even if they can afford it or enjoying that sort of thing The reason you are able charge ridiculous prices because the stealer (the dealer) charges an "arm and a leg"...and you only charge and arm.

I contacted several days ago 11 so-called automotive locksmiths in the Washington DC area, including couple that are national. I inquired about options and prices since it's not an emergency. Three of these were "kind" to respond so far. Of those two do not do BMW. One (national level) referred me to someone else. Apparently, professionalism in interacting with the general pubic and potential clients depends on how lucrative the situation is. Not having your balls squeezed in an emergency begging a locksmith to respond may not merit a response from a so-called professional. Just not enough incentive and potential desperation to charge up ridiculous amounts. Not unlike a plumber or an HVAC person when they are called to respond to a home in 100F heat with no A/C vs adding so e charge in the system in the spring before hot season arrives.

Apparently, BMW and many European cars require a bit more time and equipment so it's more economical to target Hondas, Kia's, Fords, Toyottas, etc. More of those can be done in a shorter amount of time with much less invasive work, leading to more "happy and satisfied customers".

Anyway. Took me a few hours of educating myself to come up with the fix. Not because it's my only option, but because that's the option I chose. My last colonoscopy was two yeas ago...and not about the do another one soon For about $600 -including a one per day license- a Yanhua Mini ACDP Master and a Module 2 will do the job without soldering. The fix could be done cheaper via OBD and Module 1, but (before you would kindly caution me) it's safer to remove the FEM from the vehicle and go the ICP route. Thanks for all your help!

[fe7565]

Try to view the pcb under a microscope.
If you lucky you might find what went wrong.
If you have a frequency reader for remotes you will know if the remote is functioning and is out of synch.
Could be a damaged part or battery leak.


And yes i bought a key from the dealer for a BMW surprisingly it was only twice the cost of what locksmith charge.

Thank you for the kind response and the suggestion. For now, since this is not an emergency, I am getting an SDR ($25) to check if any signals are getting out from the remote. Then will compare the signal (if any) to the good remote's. The PCB looks OK under a 10x. Fixed coupe of issues that I caused when opening the case. I got an OEM used key and a Chinese clone key on the way for $20 ea. Ultimately, will move the PCF7953 over from the bad remote to the OEM key. Or, if I go the Yanhua Mini route, I just use the Chinese blank key. Or spend another $60 for Module 7 and refresh the OEM key.

[lion0304]

Just for your information: Frequency detected doesn't mean key will work with the car.

[fe7565]

Just for your information: Frequency detected doesn't mean key will work with the car.

Thank you. I am hoping to find out if the key is transmitting at all. It would help me focus on any circuitboard issues. It starts the car, so based on what I learned it is still in the CAS. Syncing it several ways via the emergency transponder in the steering column did not work.

Will worry about rolling codes and other transmitter syncing issues once I confirm that it transmits.

[fuzz1]

I definitely like your way of thinking. Most of the time it's cause of some capacitor that failed or some simple parts or corrosion.

And yes it's costly if one fails but the satisfaction getting it done outweighs that. At least for me.

And repair on the fob unit alone will almost never get your car bricked.

If you know micro soldering and some electronics then you can check the fob.
Battery
Capacitor
Coil
Resistor

Post a picture of your fob maybe