A stupid newbie question

[Classictinker]

Kess, and ktag

Nice one, thanks Al Is it better to use ktag when ever possible?

[al70]

Nice one, thanks Al Is it better to use ktag when ever possible?

for sure, it's much safer plus you get a full read of ecu, i dread plugging my clone into a car

[Classictinker]

for sure, it's much safer plus you get a full read of ecu, i dread plugging my clone into a car

Ye I read somewhere that kess only gets a partial read of the ecu.

I've bought a practice ecu for wifeys car, hers is an 06 jtdm (euro 5) and this ecu came off an 07 jtdm so it should do the job. I'm also thinking of buying the ecu from a 2010 cloverleaf. Same car but with 170ps maps as standard which might be useful if I can compare the maps between the 150jtdm and the 170jtdm. My own gt is a 2004 jtd (euro 4) so its' ecu could have a totally different layout but I'll have a poke around in there cos the car goes like hot snot and gets way better mpg's than wifeys euro 5 maps can manage. Although it kicks out more than its' fair share of smoke when you boot it . Luckily my nextdoor neighbour owns an mot station but I don't want to take the piss every time I take it for mot...it would be nice if I could pop a euro 5 ecu on the car for the mot then swap back to the go faster ecu afterwards. As far as I can tell the only difference between the euro4 jtd and euro 5 jtdm is the maps which were tweaked to reduce emisions on the jtdm to comply with euro 5 specs. I'll double check injectors, fuel pump, cam and piston part numbers but I'm pretty sure they're the same.

[Classictinker]

Well the practice ecu has arrived and the ktag and kess should be here in the next couple of days I guess that now I should be thinking about sorting out the practice ecu's immobiliser. Is this something I will be able to do myself (with help) or will I need to rely on some kind soul here doing it for me?

[al70]

You can wait for your ktag ( best option ) or if you have an eeprom programmer you can remove the 8 pin soic chip and read/write, post eeprom read and someone will immo off for you

[Classictinker]

You can wait for your ktag ( best option ) or if you have an eeprom programmer you can remove the 8 pin soic chip and read/write, post eeprom read and someone will immo off for you

I think wifey will wrap the ktag up as a crimbo pezzy so I'll have to wait until crimbo day to start doing anything :/ I thought I should start doing my homework though

[al70]

You'll need one of these also for reading bdm, I never use mine, I just hold the adapter on the board by hand ( not recommend ), this one is quite cheap to start with

[Classictinker]

You'll need one of these also for reading bdm, I never use mine, I just hold the adapter on the board by hand ( not recommend ), this one is quite cheap to start with

Hi Al Yep I'll have a mooch about on 'tinternet and see what I can find. I was also thinking about making a small adaptation to my 3d printer to hold the ecu and adaptor so make shaky hands don't mess things up .

[al70]

Cool, I'd like to see that, there are better frames than that one out there

[Classictinker]

Cool, I'd like to see that, there are better frames than that one out there

I don't think it will look pretty but it should do the job. I think I'll make some sort of adaptor to mount on the print head platform to hold the ktag adaptor. Then I can line everything up and use the printers controls to lower the adaptor the last few mm and keep it in place. The printer bed is spring mounted so there is no danger of damaging the ecu's pcb but the spring pressure should keep everything in place...I hope

[Classictinker]

Ok for my next stupid newbie question...I've got a bosch edc16c39 from an alfa gt sat on my knee. I think the hardware number is 0 281 012 883 but I can't figure out which of the other numbers is the software number. I see 51806561 under the barcode, 07-08-11 (Date probably) above the barcode to the right, 1039s20812 to the right of the date code and 1324 0126 above that number. They may be wrong as I can't find my glasses so I'm struggling to read the numbers .

P.S. Happy new year to you all

[al70]

Hi C.T, the 1039s number is the software

[Classictinker]

Hi C.T, the 1039s number is the software

Cheers Al I think I need to sort myself out with a decent power supply as all my attempts to read the practice ecu gave me a "Hardware configuration not supported" error which as far as I can tell is probably due to the crappy little plugtop charger than came with ktag not providing enough Umph. Also me trying to hold the solder on connector by hand probably didn't help But at least I've got the ecu opened . I think I have an old 500w pc power supply kicking about somewhere, maybe that will do the job...I think I need around 13-13.5v for ktag...does that sound about right? I also have a universal laptop charger than has selectable voltage output which might be up to the job. How critical is voltage ripple when writing with ktag?

I suppose my next job is to buy a frame and some adapters or at least a 14AM00T01M for the edc16c39.

[al70]

That warning comes up with bad connection, give the pads a gentle clean with some fine sandpaper 2.5/3 amp is loads and yes, most times the power supply that comes with ktag is useless and unreliable, it takes a little practice to get the pins lined up properly, even with the bdm frame you'll find yourself lining them up correctly with a pair of tweezers, keep trying, goodluck.

[al70]

this is the way i do it, , one time it took near 45mins to write a bmw file, i was crying tears of pain from the cramps in my hands