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  1. #1
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    Exclamation Help me bring this Peugeot 307 SW back alive!

    Hello guys,

    Long story short, this will be a challenging thread, where I will ask some expertise on bringing my Peugeot 307 SW 1.6 HDi (110 bhp) back alive.

    It all started back in December 2021, when my mum's car started to do some "tack-tack" and begin to lose power with only 168k KMs. We went to different mechanics and all of them told different theories and said that it needed a new engine. They had zero interest in finding the issue. With an estimate of 1000+ EUR to replace the engine, we had to put it aside...

    I was not comfortable with letting this nice car die slowly, so I took a week of vacations back in May to repair this car, with the help of my grandfather, who is an old tractor's mechanic.

    Thinking that the issue was related with the hydraulic lifters or the valves themselves, I bought a used DV6 cylinder head, with valves, hydraulic lifters and rockers/hammers included, which looked like in very good condition. The seller told me that it came from his car, which was involved in an accident and it had 154k KMs on with.

    I started disassembly my engine, and after I take the engine head's cover, I noticed that the issue was not a simple hydraulic lifter... It was a broken exhaust valve on cylinder No. 2! We had hard days coming, and I had to detach engine head from the engine.

    Not knowing what forced this valve to broken, after inspected both heads, we decided to replace the whole head and valves with the one I bought.
    So, I started to disassembly the valves, polish them manually (liked my grandfather have done in his old good times), and we also "polished" the head on a glass to make sure it was completely flat, cleaned the hydraulic lifters and make sure they don’t are stuck. The cylinders themselves looked good, not oil or water marks, the cylinder No. 2 had a tiny mark from the stuck and broken valve, but nothing serious.

    I bought a new gasket (with same number of holes), new studs, new seals for injectors and admission and I took sometime cleaning the EGR and the complete admission. I also replaced the oil and its filter. After that, it was time to re-assemble the engine.

    After assembling the engine, following all the tightening torques and listening to my old man's advices, we could start the car! And it sounded good!

    However, when I went to the road that's when the problems began. I noticed it was making black smoke (under load, 2000+ rpm) and had a loss of power! I also noticed the rpm gauge had tiny "juddering" under load and the car does not evolve at all. No errors at all showing in PP2000 or Diagbox.

    Thinking that this had something to do with the car being stopped for 6+ months, I put additive diesel and made around 1000km to see how it reacts (mainly mountains road and normal roads), and unfortunately nothing gets better! The car has no power to climb and has a hard time to reach 110km/h on straight road.

    I’ve been doing some research online for similar problems, and I’ve already tried some things:
    - I noticed some “abnormal” correction values on injector No. 3 (not sure if they are abnormal or not). So, I swapped injectors 2 and 3 and the issue remains on the same cylinder 3 – So no issue with the injector at all
    - I swapped the MAF sensor with another one working -same issue – I’ve already tested with the MAF sensor disconnected.
    - I’ve checked for leaks in the admission. Replaced the turbocharger hose, which was not in good condition.
    - Checked for oil levels and water everything stays the same.
    - Disconnected the EGR cable, the car looks like it makes less black smoke (placebo or not?) but still a lot of smoke under load and no power.
    This week I’ve got a P0238 error, something related with the turbo, and I’ve remembered that it was something that had appear for sometimes in the car when it was running well.

    Yesterday, I took the car for a 3km ride and read some metrics. I got the graphic parameters measure in attachment to this post. I don’t know if the values for injector No. 3 are normal or not. And also, I don’t have the knowledge to analyse if the turbo values are normal or not.

    Can you help out guys? I think that with your help we can get this baby back working like in its old days! 😊



    Peugeot Data.jpg
    Last edited by filipedbc; 31st July, 2022 at 12:40 PM.

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    TLDR: my Peugeot 307 SW 1.6 HDi (110 bhp) broke with 168k KMs. It was a broken exhaust valve on cylinder No. 3. I've replaced the Head, Valves, Hydraulic Lifters and some Seals and Gaskets. The car now works, but it has a lot of Black Smoke under load and Loss of Power. No errors on PP2000 at all, until this week. Been trying to diagnostic the issue and I need your help.

    After get this working, we will have a beer for sure!

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    Hello. The master must give a guarantee to take money for such work. The cause of the valve failure is unknown and it is not clear how the engine will work in the future. It makes no sense for the master to take responsibility for himself. Therefore, they suggest replacing the entire engine.

    For the current issue:
    1. Insufficient readings of the MAF during acceleration of the car - 750. It should be 1000-1200.
    2. Error P0238- overflowing the turbine during acceleration.

    Check the vacuum system for leaks instrument vacuum gauge.

    P.S. Injector correction is monitored at idle.
    Last edited by meser75; 31st July, 2022 at 05:47 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by filipedbc View Post
    Been trying to diagnostic the issue and I need your help.

    After get this working, we will have a beer for sure!
    Do not offer beer to masters! On this forum, it is customary to help disinterestedly. And if you were helped, enough press thanks.
    Last edited by meser75; 31st July, 2022 at 03:58 PM.

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    Hi
    I am no master and don't drink alcohol ��

    So if you want some piece of advice just look for all live data compare and note all values out of range. There is probably quite a few

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    Quote Originally Posted by meser75 View Post
    Hello. The master must give a guarantee to take money for such work. The cause of the valve failure is unknown and it is not clear how the engine will work in the future. It makes no sense for the master to take responsibility for himself. Therefore, they suggest replacing the entire engine.

    For the current issue:
    1. Insufficient readings of the MAF during acceleration of the car - 750. It should be 1000-1200.
    2. Overflow of the turbine at engine speeds over 2250. Error P0238. Should be no more than 2000.

    Check the vacuum system for leaks.

    P.S. Injector correction is monitored at idle.
    Thank you so much for your insight, meser75!

    The first mechanic that saw the car, said he had no time to waste on the engine, the best he could do was to replace the engine. The second one made a diagnostic, said he tested the injectors, said something about the camshaft and charged me 3 hours without even doing some compression test. It was 6 months ago, and I always felt bad about puting this car aside. That's why I did not completely believe them.

    I've checked the wastegate actuator and it moves and stays in position when I start the car. Next week will I will check for leaks in the vaccum hose.
    I didn't know that the injector correction should be monitored only at idle. But I noticed that in idle while the other injectors had corrections between -0.60 to 0.5, this one had 0.7+ to 1.0.

    So, your suggestion is that maybe there is something wrong about the turbo/admission?


    Quote Originally Posted by fuzz1 View Post
    Hi
    I am no master and don't drink alcohol 😁

    So if you want some piece of advice just look for all live data compare and note all values out of range. There is probably quite a few
    Ok
    Is there any manual or document with the thresholds or normal values for the live data that I should consider?


    ---

    Thank you both for your insights.

    Also should I try to clean the intercooler?
    I'm afraid that I have some compression issue (althought the engine sounds good). If I had one, could I see something wrong in the live data or should I ask for a compression test kit?

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    I read the opus again.
    Black smoke - the engine is not getting enough air. MAF readings show this. If everything was in order before the repair, double-check everything related to the air supply to the engine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by filipedbc View Post
    I didn't know that the injector correction should be monitored only at idle. But I noticed that in idle while the other injectors had corrections between -0.60 to 0.5, this one had 0.7+ to 1.0.
    It's acceptable.

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    Quote Originally Posted by filipedbc View Post
    So, your suggestion is that maybe there is something wrong about the turbo/admission?
    turbo- OK, admission- cheсk.

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    Quote Originally Posted by meser75 View Post
    turbo- OK, admission- cheсk.
    It's been a while but I finally have done some tests.
    A mechanic lent me a compression test kit and today I tested the compression of the engine. The tests were made without fuel in the injectors, measuring the compression via the glowplugs. I've also checked the admission and everything looks OK. Tomorrow I will clean the intercooler.

    These are the results:
    Cylinder no 1: 360 psi
    Cylinder no 2: 375 psi
    Cylinder no 3: 370 psi
    Cylinder no 4: 345 psi

    I think the values are a little low. What do you think?

    Thank you so much

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    Those cylinder pressures look okay.

    Forget the correction quantities those are only useful at idle for smooth running control, first of all with ignition on and engine off check your manifold/boost pressure and ambient air pressure they should both read 1000mbar +/- 20 to check they are both ok.
    next get a driver and on test drive pull up fuel rail pressure desired and actual and the same for manifold/boost check that the desired and actual pressures match up.

    Another thing to check would be the fuel lift pump, these engines don't have an electric lift pump in the tank but have a transfer pump on the back of the high pressure fuel pump that's used to draw fuel up from the tank. you would need to get hold of a fuel vacuum guage to test the negative pressure side of the fuel system.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ECMG View Post
    Those cylinder pressures look okay.

    Forget the correction quantities those are only useful at idle for smooth running control, first of all with ignition on and engine off check your manifold/boost pressure and ambient air pressure they should both read 1000mbar +/- 20 to check they are both ok.
    next get a driver and on test drive pull up fuel rail pressure desired and actual and the same for manifold/boost check that the desired and actual pressures match up.

    Another thing to check would be the fuel lift pump, these engines don't have an electric lift pump in the tank but have a transfer pump on the back of the high pressure fuel pump that's used to draw fuel up from the tank. you would need to get hold of a fuel vacuum guage to test the negative pressure side of the fuel system.
    Thank you so much for your input. I will try some of these things tomorrow. One question, where could I know the desired live parameters and values for this engine?

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    Some of the desired values will have there own live data, depending on what tool you are using and manufacturer they are called different things but all mean the same. For example with fuel rail pressure you should have a live data block titled desired/nominal/set point/etc and you want to match that against your actual measured pressure.

    Not all live data will have nominal figures displayed, some are available in technical literature and others are only used withing the diagnostic tools themselves.

    Should you need it all the relevant documents can be purchased through peugeot service box portal at https://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/pages/index.jsp

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    Sorry guys for the long waiting. It has been a long month with this Peugeot!

    So, the issue of RPM juddering and low power has been solved. I payed the extra price and tested the injectors. The 2nd cylinder injector was bad in low and mid revs. Order a new one and the issue is solved and I have some horses back in my stable!

    Then after a while, a tack tack noise from the crank shaft appeared. This noise came from the pulley. Had to replace it and also replaced the belt.

    Yesterday I cleaned the DPF filter with a dpf cleaning foam spray and hot water.

    The only issue that I have now is some black smoke when I press the gas. I'm thinking in blanking the EGR for testing and replacing it. I'm saying this because when I've cleaned the EGR it felt like it could get stuck when moving.

    Can you guys give me more insights?

    Thank you
    Last edited by filipedbc; 2nd October, 2022 at 10:09 AM. Reason: typo

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    you can try with this solution try and report
    Attached Files Attached Files

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