cast iron soilpipe

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  • dick b
    V.I.P. Member
    • Jun 2009
    • 2462

    #1

    cast iron soilpipe

    I shall be replacing my cast iron soil pipe once the weather improves but only from about 1ft above ground I have already got the neccessary cast to plastic adapter but has anyone got any advice on the best way of cutting the old iron one.
  • gauntlet
    V.I.P. Member
    • Nov 2008
    • 275

    #2
    Hello
    You could use an angle grinder with a metal cutting wheel in it.

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    • stuckylad
      DK Veteran
      • Jun 2008
      • 991

      #3
      or a stihl saw with metal or stone cutting blade,zip through it in a minute no problem
      sigpic

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      • ste 123
        Junior Member
        • Jan 2011
        • 20

        #4
        ALL the above or would it not be best to got to a joint in the cast one and replace it from there . that is what i did as cast is easy to break

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        • chucklor
          DK Veteran
          • Jun 2009
          • 470

          #5
          I would use a cordless angle grinder mate, if you use something that is too powerful and has not got a brake then cutting at an angle could be potentially hazardous if in the wrong hands, get a cutting disc not a grinding disc and you will be OK also make sure the weight of the soil pipe does not snag the blade, and don't forget some eye protection, you certainly do not want a metal splinter in your eye....chuck

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          • patkins
            V.I.P. Member
            • Oct 2009
            • 3662

            #6
            Ste's suggestion would be a good one as you would not have to cut the pipe but as these drains are usually supported at the joint then just cut bolt or bolt head and get 2 new bolts and nuts. Cast iron is very brittle.

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            • gregk
              Top Poster +
              • Jan 2010
              • 242

              #7
              You can cut it using grinder and very thin metal cutting disc thiner then normal [it cuts a lott easier but you have to have steady hand] you can get them in screwfix. Cut it down in few bits/stages other wise pipe gets very heavy and dangerus. Only cut just past half way round in to the pipe. This should prevent pipe jamming cutting disc and grinder kicking back. [this idealy should be done by 2 ppl ] Put pressure above the cut and see if rest of joint breaks.
              If it does NOT- keep pressure on and hit uncut part with hammer this should break the joint if not cut a little more. Be very careful as when you doing it on the ladder it can be very dangerus so take every safety precaution possible.
              Last edited by gregk; 5 January, 2011, 23:07.

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              • dick b
                V.I.P. Member
                • Jun 2009
                • 2462

                #8
                thanks lads for the replies.
                I cant go to the nearest joint as I want to install a single branch near the bottom of the stack.I have some of those thin discs from screwfix so after reading your views I"ll start near the top and take it down bit by bit say 2 to 3ft at a time.I"ve also had a try with one of those round bladed tungsten tile hacksaws as I wont be able to get all the way through with the grinder and it appears to cut ok but havent gone too far as I dont want it leaking yet.once I have removed the cast iron joint at 1st floor level I may make the bottom cut and slide a bit of tinplate in to stop any bits going into the drain so I can then as said break the rest up above it bit by bit.

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                • gregk
                  Top Poster +
                  • Jan 2010
                  • 242

                  #9
                  Originally posted by dick b
                  once I have removed the cast iron joint at 1st floor level I may make the bottom cut and slide a bit of tinplate in to stop any bits going into the drain so I can then as said break the rest up above it bit by bit.
                  No need to break pipe bit by bit too much of hard work. If you did get wafer thin discs they will go thru pipe in less then a minute they are ever so good. Do last cut 2" or 5cm above where you want finished cut and brake the pipe. Then cut as far as you can with grinder in to pipe at finished level then top to bottom so that 1st front half of pipe falls of then you can cut rest of it OFF from inside out. Good hacksaw will cut cast pipe as well propably with less work then tile cutter.

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                  • dick b
                    V.I.P. Member
                    • Jun 2009
                    • 2462

                    #10
                    thanks gregk the bit about cutting the pipe lengthwise and finishing from the inside is a great tip.

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                    • trent1579
                      Member
                      • Oct 2010
                      • 68

                      #11
                      re

                      use a 9" angle grinder 240v, wear safety goggles and builders gloves very easy to do,take your time and dont apply to much pressure to grinder or blade will jump

                      make sure you remove all burrs on cast iron,and chamfer the edge on the plastic stack going into the rubber coupling do not overtighten the jubilee clips.

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                      • mrgasman
                        Banned
                        • Jan 2010
                        • 668

                        #12
                        As above a metal cutting diss on any angle grinder will do the trick just get rid of everything above the 1st joint before you start as a length of cast on the back of the nut often offends.

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                        • R_J
                          DK Veteran
                          • Jan 2009
                          • 492

                          #13
                          You could rent a chain cutter.

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