Please help a novice, really desperate now. Wiring problem on Berlingo 2.0L HDI 2002

[Intermouse]

History:

Berlingo 2.0L HDI was parked in supermarket carpark. Drove there fine. On returning to the van, it never started again since.

The latest is that I have found at least 5 wires 'danglin' under the drivers side of the dash.

Basically i'm no electrician and need help identifying these wires and subsequently diagnosing, hopefull, the underlying problem.

I have a wiring diagram (haynes) and multi-meter etc, and would really appreciate some help getting started.

So, 5 wires need indentifying / reconnecting but I'm a complete auo-leccy novice.

TIA
Intermouse

[dafdiagnos]

what is the complete story with the van m8? are you sure these wires are the problem?does it turn over & not fire up? does the starter not engage at all? if it does turn over is it fueling to injectors? have you checked all fuses & relays, earth connections etc

[the_big_d]

Do the wires have a plug on the end ? if so what colour & what are the numbers printed on the wires ?

[cristec]

Why do you think the dangling wires are the reason the van won't start, did you disturb then and after that did it not start?
As the previous post ask's do the wires have plugs on the end.
These van often have odd connectors hanging down under the driver's side dash for option's that have not been fitted.
If the van has piezo injectors these have a habit of going short circuit to earth.
To test this unplug each one in turn and check with the multi meter on the high ohms range, one lead on a good earth and other lead on each of the pins on the injector.
You should have no reading at all, if you find one with a reading, leave this one unplugged and try to start the engine.

HTH

[dafdiagnos]

as cristec said, it could be injector fault, it could be inertia switch if fitted- if so then under bonnet on o/s by bulkhead, poss crank sensor, poss relay module or immo fault. it could take some investigating unfortunately

[Intermouse]

The van turns over but fails to start. No smoke and no output from the high pressure pump. I have fuel from the tank pump to the HPP. The key light on the dash and STOP indicators are both on and do not go out.

The whole reason i'm suspicious about wires is because i gave the van to some 'mechanic' who told me it was a fault with the high pressure fuel pump. He also said that if i was not prepared to pay the amount he quuoted, that he would be really REALLY interested in buying as it is. I said i didn't want the work done and he got all nasty and difficult and when i went to collect the van, and queried the ?150 he wanted for the diagnosis, he said "F**k you then, don't come here quibblig about the bill, that's it now f**k off, get off my land you're not getting your van back", and promply closed his gates.

I had to call the police to get the van back, and pay the ?150.

After retrieving the van, the key light now stays on. I think this is telling me that the key is not coded / transponder fault. However, due to earlier customer services experiences, I am suspicious that the nice mechanic chap has done something to it. This light didn't come on before he had it.

So far I have purcahsed a new key case and transponder. I have the lexia 3 kit and can read codes etc, but it fails when i try to program the new key in. It says preparing to program key, then fails.

So, I'm suspiciuous of sabotage.

None of the wires i have found to be loose have plugs on the end, although they are behind the BSI / fuse box and its speghetti under there.

One wire i found disconnected one end, is connected to the multi plug on the back of the instrument panel.

Thank you all for your help so far, any help is very much appreciated. I'll try the injectors and post a reply soon.

[z786]

sounds like you went the Mead-Head Motors, you definatly met the legend in person, did he luk like this by any chance?
????????

Back 2 the topic, do these hav a seperate immo box?
also check for ecu connections, mite hav pulled off the ecu connector, also check BSI if it is connected, most likely the description you give could be the BSI disconnected? hav a look and let us knw how u get on

[dafdiagnos]

if the key light remains on the immo will remain in active state so will not allow pump to fuel. if you can't communicate with the immo it could well be that your friendly mechanic messed slightly. the immo module should be around bsi / fusebox area. you'll need to do some messing & with luck you might see if any wires have been 'removed'. if not report on wire colours/ numbers & carry out tests for fueling

[Intermouse]

Yes its has a separate im*o box if thats the real name for the BSI.

Heres some of the wires i have found disc'd

brown 612 5270 1542 6291

blue (or violet) 612 5270 1542 5293

white 115/0041/24050

yellow 115/0041 115/0041/240502

Ther's also a black which has no numbers and is very close to 2 fuses in a separate fuse holder with 2 10 amp fuses in. This fuse holder has all black in and out.

[the_big_d]

There is no seperate immo box on this van, its managed by the BSI. If there are no plugs on the end of the wires are they just bare at the end ?? do they look like they have been cut ?

[Meat-Head]

The "F**k you then, don't come here quibblig about the bill, that's it now f**k off, get off my land you're not getting your van back", and promply closed his gates.

I had to call the police to get the van back, and pay the ?150.

.

AWESOME. roughly where are you in the UK?

1) What fault did the police decide was wrong?
2) Try looking 'under' the alternator for a small innocent looking yellow
2/3 (?) pin plug, if it has solder it out.
3) If it was sabertarge, would suspect other things not to work
on the vechile, have you tried testing, wipers,lights horn etc?
4) The guy might have swapped the transponder chip, rather
than skanked it (top tip from M-H-M)
5) when you turn ignition off with key in, door open, do you get a REALLY
anoying 'he-har he-har' noise?
6) Was the bloke called Mr Adam Cherry
7) DISCONNECT BATTERY FIRST at the back of bulkhead, you might find
a large multi-plug, unscrew it, and remove the 'nut' (stops it dropping out of metal plate), throw the ring to a dawg you don't like, then wire
brush the two halfs of the plug.
8) up to you, but 15 quid for a crank sensor, but then again
there was a thread on here about one not charging at idle and user put crank sensor on it!

sounds like you went the Mead-Head Motors, you definatly met the legend in person, did he luk like this by any chance?
????????

Nah wasn't M-H-M because:

1) No mention of post completion of sale "We have your money
now f**k off"
2) No mention of he gave two of his workers the sack there and then
for refusing to help beat up a customer.
3) No mention of post completion of payment, the vechile been pushed
out on to the main road.
4) M-H-M ALWAYS take the wheels of customers cars who refuse to
pay and leave them on bricks (Got caught out by people collecting
cars with spare keys - Why we have big gates on now)

[peugeot]

History:

Berlingo 2.0L HDI was parked in supermarket carpark. Drove there fine. On returning to the van, it never started again since.

The latest is that I have found at least 5 wires 'danglin' under the drivers side of the dash.

Basically i'm no electrician and need help identifying these wires and subsequently diagnosing, hopefull, the underlying problem.

I have a wiring diagram (haynes) and multi-meter etc, and would really appreciate some help getting started.

So, 5 wires need indentifying / reconnecting but I'm a complete auo-leccy novice.

TIA
Intermouse

Check for burnt pins in brown or black double relay at rear of battery. It has a red sliding type plug on it .Not unusual.

[Intermouse]

We're in kettering, northants....

Some more clues.

I can use lexia to clear BSI faults, and to actuate indicators, radio etc....

But still can't clear injection faults or program keys.

Faults i can read from the ECU / Injection system:

1.Permanent Fault: Battery voltage too low
2.Permanent Fault: Supply relay control short circuit between 2 wires or open circuit
3.Permanent Fault: Voltage converter
4.Permanent Fault: Accelerator pedal 2 signal short circuit to earth
5.Permanent Fault: Cylinder reference signal short circuit between 2 wires or open circuit
6.Permanent Fault: Injector(s) control power stage
7.Permanent Fault: Accelerator pedal signal monitoring Coherence
8.Permanent Fault: Fuel flow regulation open circuit
9.Permanent Fault: Fuel pressure sensor supply.

I have disconnected most of the sensors. The errors that existed before i disconnected sensors are:

1,2 & 4

I can't clear faults from the injection system.

The case continues.

[the_big_d]

Check for burnt pins in brown or black double relay at rear of battery. It has a red sliding type plug on it .Not unusual.

Probably wont have a double relay as it will have com2000. The double relay function is incorporated into the underbonnet fusebox.
I think you will need to get hold of an injection system wiring diagram & start checking Feeds & earths to the ECU. Are you getting your power supplies to the sensors & auctuators ?
Are there any faults logged in the Airbag ECU & the com2000 ?
Have you fully removed the BSI & checked for water ingress ? this is especially common if the windscreen has ever been replaced.

[Meat-Head]

We're in kettering, northants....



I can't clear faults from the injection system.

The case continues.

Cool, wounder if the guy you mentioned earlier is intreasted in a
Meat-Head-Mototrs Franchise.

Suggests the main relay has either lost power or is faulty.
Or ecu fried.

Did you play with the plug on the bulkhead?


Remember if you try programming the keys more than 3 times the bsi turns into a pumpkin or something.

Can you post a VERY GOOD close up of the diagramme on the fuel control relay.

The diagramme on the side, or re-draw on paper, scan and upload, so we can tell you what to look for.